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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does size really matter?


in general are you better off spending the money on a really good 8" sub or an average 12"-15" sub?




(personally will be using it for movies only in a small sized theater room)
 

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Generally a larger driver can move more air and reproduce lower frequencies better. Of course sub design is most important aspect. Personally I will never have an 8" sub in my theater or advise it upon anyone else. What is your budget and size of the room... More info and I bet this forum can help you get a great sub.
 

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There is no replacement for displacement....



That's not entirely true but its a good starting point.


Yes, an 8" sub with an XMAX of say 32mm might outperform a 10" sub with an xmax of 13mm, but eventually size will always win out.


Take even a low end 18" sub, and it will embarrassingly outperform (at least in terms of output and extension) a very high end 8" sub. There may be a huge difference in sound quality, but that would be the extent of it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsoul /forum/post/19600439


Unless it's an 8" tapped horn

Well, thats the enclosure, not the driver.


Unless we're mistaken i think he is referring to how an 8" driver performs compared to a larger driver.
 

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For direct radiating designs, I personally wouldn't want to go any smaller than 18," or at least a 15" with lots of throw. That's just personal preference... I like my movie LFE loud and low. Can't really do that too affordably with smaller woofers.


Once you get into tapped horns that kind of makes you think differently about what smaller woofers can do, but still - a lot of people aren't able to or don't want to try to put one of those together and the commercial options are a little expensive yet. And they can be pretty big, too, especially when you get down below 20Hz.


Just about everything has advantages and disadvantages.
 

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Quote:
Really good 8" sub

I live with good sensitivity, 8" two ways, three identical across the front. The 8" driver in them can't properly cover the 2 octaves above the sub crossover. That being said, how can an 8" driver properly cover anything lower?


IIRC, as frequency plunges downward, each octave of additional extension, requires (4)x the excursion to maintain a given spl. Obviously, this places each aspect of the equation into very demanding territory, very quickly.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojomike /forum/post/19602012


Theoretically a good 8" driver can play deep bass. It's just not likely to be able to do so at levels that are very useful in a typical room.

Yep, think headphones or in-ears
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hrimnir /forum/post/19600501


Well, thats the enclosure, not the driver.


Unless we're mistaken i think he is referring to how an 8" driver performs compared to a larger driver.

Agreed, apples to oranges argument on my part
. I have heard some wild claims about the carver/sunfire sealed 10" woofer. I imagine there is an 8 out there that could tune low in a ported configuration (The sundown audio e8 for instance) but I cannot imagine that one would fill a large room with much spl.


You could diy an 8" dayton HF tuned to 27hz in 1cube that would dig deep but not get super loud, the box would have to look like a space station with external tube ports sticking out of it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr stroke /forum/post/19600332


Does size really matter?


in general are you better off spending the money on a really good 8" sub or an average 12"-15" sub?

A "really good" 8" sub is something that you might buy for music in really small office. An application where tight musical bass down to say 35-40hz is desirable but neither deep extension or tremendous volume are important or even desirable. On the other hand for theater size matters.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojomike /forum/post/19601736


Can you vouch for it in use in a HT? I have not heard one so I cannot really comment, but I tend to be a skeptic.

I've heard it, albeit in a 4000 cubic foot treated theater while comparing it to the PB13, EP600, JLF13 and DD18.


Needless to say, it was useless for HT. Sounded really cute though for music, kidding, at low levels it actually sounded great for music (guitar plucks for instance sounded perfect). For HT I'm sure it would fair slightly better in a very small (say sub 1200 cubic foot) room.


It was also much faster, tighter, and more musical at the notes it did hit vs all the other big "slow woofer'd" 13" to 18" subs., clearly.



The only reason I'd buy an EP400, or any single 8" sub, is if my room was very, very small, or my wife simply wouldn't allow a sub box much larger than a shoe box in the house. I've also heard the Mirage OM-8 and Sunfire HRS-8 in small condos and for their purpose, they sounded fine, though again, anything below 30hz or so simply sounded like distorted muffled noise.


Having said that, I'd take something like the EP400 over say a crappy muddy sounding 12" sub. But for the price it goes for (north of $1,000), unless you're severely space (or WAF) constrained, I just don't get why anyone would buy that particular sub over anything else in the $600 to $1,000 range available.
 
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