[autox320]

I keep posting about this but finally had a few minutes to snap a couple pics on it when swapping out epq1200s for epx4000s.


The 12v trigger out of the receiver doesn't have enough to get past a single 75ohm relay. Using the 12v trigger to turn on a standard atx pc power supply though and it has enough on a single 12v rail to turn on multiples in daisy chain. The receiver 12v trigger is wired to a standard automotive 12v relay which grounds the green wire in the atx power supply to turn it on.


All Behringer amps I've done this with so far have plenty of room inside to mount the omron relay. Just watch out for the black reset button on the side of the relay. It can't be mounted pushed in(against something) or the relay will never close.


Relay being used is available at mouser.
mouser.com omron relay link


Clean and simple.


And a short vid of it in action. 3 epx4000s and 2 ep4000s via wifi. Enjoy!

 

[Scott Simonian]

Neat! I wish my Onkyo had a proper 12v output for the main zone. There are only 12v triggers for never ever used zones2 and 3.

 

[pitviper33]

Any idea how much power you're actually pulling out of that power supply? It sounds like overkill to me, but then you are turning on a lot more amplifiers with it than I am.


Here's my 12V trigger system.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P1QJXQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=110&cp_id=11009&cs_id=1100901&p_id=6882&seq=1&format=2


It's only good to 1A on the 12V side, but that seems to be enough to power one automotive style relay (like autox is doing) on a power amplifier and two 140mm cooling fans. An advantage of this way is that the 12V power supply is unlikely to be taxed as hard, because anything that's physically near the receiver can just be plugged into the smart strip. My bias light and another power amplifier are both plugged in directly.

 

[coctostan]

I have a little secret...QSC makes a line of pro amps that can be turned on remotely. It is the CX series which is available in 2, 4 and channels and in a wide range of power ratings. The downside is that they are prohibitively expensive new. The upside is that you can find deals on eBay and they are very high I laity amps.

 

[ScooterX]



Quote:
Originally Posted by coctostan  /t/1468003/remoting-multiple-pro-amps#post_23197886


I have a little secret...QSC makes a line of pro amps that can be turned on remotely. It is the CX series which is available in 2, 4 and channels and in a wide range of power ratings. The downside is that they are prohibitively expensive new. The upside is that you can find deals on eBay and they are very high I laity amps.

Shhhh, I am still in the middle of procuring mine

One showed up today, one on the way, and one ring to rule them all...


Nice job on the relay setup Autox320, will have to try that out sometime.

 

[autox320]



Quote:
Originally Posted by pitviper33  /t/1468003/remoting-multiple-pro-amps#post_23197182


Any idea how much power you're actually pulling out of that power supply? It sounds like overkill to me, but then you are turning on a lot more amplifiers with it than I am.


It's only good to 1A on the 12V side, but that seems to be enough to power one automotive style relay (like autox is doing) on a power amplifier and two 140mm cooling fans. An advantage of this way is that the 12V power supply is unlikely to be taxed as hard, because anything that's physically near the receiver can just be plugged into the smart strip. My bias light and another power amplifier are both plugged in directly.

I have all the small items in the rack plugged into a rack mounted APC surge strips. The amps however are all dedicated lines into dedicated outlets. 20A circuits. Sub panel for the rack room is 100A so plenty is available.

Quote:
Originally Posted by coctostan  /t/1468003/remoting-multiple-pro-amps#post_23197886


I have a little secret...QSC makes a line of pro amps that can be turned on remotely. It is the CX series which is available in 2, 4 and channels and in a wide range of power ratings. The downside is that they are prohibitively expensive new. The upside is that you can find deals on eBay and they are very high I laity amps.

I'll take my QSC clones from Behringer and add remote power for $10 using this method. Pro amps for home use is a very small market.

 

[coctostan]



Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterX  /t/1468003/remoting-multiple-pro-amps#post_23197940


Shhhh, I am still in the middle of procuring mine

One showed up today, one on the way, and one ring to rule them all...


Nice job on the relay setup Autox320, will have to try that out sometime.

Sorry. Nobody reads the Internet as far as I know. I have 6 of them myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by autox320  /t/1468003/remoting-multiple-pro-amps#post_23198668

I have all the small items in the rack plugged into a rack mounted APC surge strips. The amps however are all dedicated lines into dedicated outlets. 20A circuits. Sub panel for the rack room is 100A so plenty is available.

I'll take my QSC clones from Behringer and add remote power for $10 using this method. Pro amps for home use is a very small market.

I should have added that i think your solution is pretty slick. It would be cool to figure out a way to get rid of the PC PSU.

 

[Mike Garrett]

I do the same thing, a smart strip and build relays to power on the amps. Just picked up an iNuke 6000. Time to build another relay box.

The iNuke 6000 feels a lot more substantial than what I remembered the Peavy ipr1600 felt. About a year ago, I got a DOA ipr1600 and returned it. I remember it weighing next to nothing.

 

[autox320]

EPQ1200 amps for sale listed in the classifieds. DIY takers get first dibs before they go on ebay. Like the ad says I'm open game on pricing with reasonable offers.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1469918/3x-behringer-epq1200-europower-1200w-lightweight-2-ch-power-amp

 

[AudioJosh]

So rather than create a whole new thread, I thought I'd add mine to yours. I really like your solution, although a wall wart that put out sufficient current could work instead of the ATX PSU, but like you I probably have an old ATX or two lying around, so why not?

I currently have a Marantz AV7702 with dual trigger outs, although one of the big threads talks about how one of them has issues commonly, haven't tried it out yet myself. The rest of my amplification system is as follows:
ATI AT6003 (from 3, trigger in)
ATI AT2007 (surrounds, trigger in)
ATI AT1504 (might need for Atmos, no trigger)
2x Crown K1 (no trigger)
miniDSP 4x10HD (no trigger)

Ideally, I'd like to turn my Marantz on/off solely and have the rest turn on/off with it. Even if they all had trigger inputs, that is much for the trigger outs on my prepro. Emotiva ET-3 seems marginal at best and I hate all the added mini boxes in the system (aesthetics I know but still).

So I think what I am going to do is take my old "power strip" that I built many many moons ago for my audio system (used to experiment with power filters in it, as pictured in one of the old photos, but now is just simple power strip) and do something like you did inside this chassis, plus add a relay or two to switch a couple outlets for the Crowns, 1504, and miniDSP.

 

[auburnu008]

So rather than create a whole new thread, I thought I'd add mine to yours. I really like your solution, although a wall wart that put out sufficient current could work instead of the ATX PSU, but like you I probably have an old ATX or two lying around, so why not?

I currently have a Marantz AV7702 with dual trigger outs, although one of the big threads talks about how one of them has issues commonly, haven't tried it out yet myself. The rest of my amplification system is as follows:
ATI AT6003 (from 3, trigger in)
ATI AT2007 (surrounds, trigger in)
ATI AT1504 (might need for Atmos, no trigger)
2x Crown K1 (no trigger)
miniDSP 4x10HD (no trigger)

Ideally, I'd like to turn my Marantz on/off solely and have the rest turn on/off with it. Even if they all had trigger inputs, that is much for the trigger outs on my prepro. Emotiva ET-3 seems marginal at best and I hate all the added mini boxes in the system (aesthetics I know but still).

So I think what I am going to do is take my old "power strip" that I built many many moons ago for my audio system (used to experiment with power filters in it, as pictured in one of the old photos, but now is just simple power strip) and do something like you did inside this chassis, plus add a relay or two to switch a couple outlets for the Crowns, 1504, and miniDSP.

I have 5 20 amp circuits next to my rack for my amps. I am a total noob when it comes to the relay aspect. Something like this is exactly what I am looking for. You interested in making some cash to build another one?

 

[LTD02]

this may come in handy if looking to make a sequencer:
http://www.minidsp.com/products/accessories/minidc-isolator

 

[AudioJosh]

I have 5 20 amp circuits next to my rack for my amps. I am a total noob when it comes to the relay aspect. Something like this is exactly what I am looking for. You interested in making some cash to build another one?

No chance, sorry. I did mine with a nibbler by hand and it took forever! I'd do panel express next time. Plus I don't have much time for projects these days.

 

[autox320]

Wanted to rehash this with an update nobody likes to hear. I see a few other threads getting bumped of remote powering pro amps. After a few years use I've removed the relays to power my amps. Reason, as they age induce noise as in noise that ends up at the speaker. After awhile when the relay contacts wear they induce hum. Mostly un-noticeable but I put my ear next to the horn waveguide's to check for hum when doing a system check. With the relays removed it got rid of that last bit of hum I started having for no reason. I thought somehow was my electrical to the system rack when decided to do a few tests of amps without relays vs ones with.

So I'd say if do this mod try to use solid state relays. I've not long term tested them but have one in my ep4k downstairs for the garage system. Time will tell. The large ca-chunk(when turn on) high current omrons just get noisy over time. Now that they are removed, the system is dead silent again at the CD waveguides when put your ear directly on them. Yup powering by hand a row of buttons again. We use our system for alternate viewings so don't need every amp all the time and sometimes no amps at all since view the TV through the receiver. Sometimes 2ch or music listening I'll turn on just the mains and one sub at low levels for company.

Happy listening.

 

[BassThatHz]

Yes, this is one of several reasons why I chose solid-state relays back in early 2013.

Not only rated for zillions of on/off's, with no moving parts or things to wear out, but also 0 X-ing and thus no need for flyback circuits.

Mine have actually been sitting there since 2013 just collecting dust, haven't had a chance to put them into service yet, but with more clones on the way that day is coming soon.

Of course nobody listened to me back then (and they still don't. hehe! )
They all went the cheapo route ala NotNyt's relay thread or whatnot, which is good, until they start physically breaking down...

Of course you can easily just pop new ones in and probably still be cheaper than a set of good SSR's. It's not the end of the world.

I bought Omega SSR240DC50's, good for 50A rms @ up to 240V rms. With heatsinks they were like $60 each or something.
I don't think even a FP20k could max these guys out, certainly not the 240V version.

 

[autox320]

Yes, this is one of several reasons why I chose solid-state relays back in early 2013.

Not only rated for zillions of on/off's, with no moving parts or things to wear out, but also 0 X-ing and thus no need for flyback circuits.

Mine have actually been sitting there since 2013 just collecting dust, haven't had a chance to put them into service yet, but with more clones on the way that day is coming soon.

Of course nobody listened to me back then (and they still don't. hehe! )
They all went the cheapo route ala NotNyt's relay thread or whatnot, which is good, until they start physically breaking down...

Of course you can easily just pop new ones in and probably still be cheaper than a set of good SSR's. It's not the end of the world.

I bought Omega SSR240DC50's, good for 50A rms @ up to 240V rms. With heatsinks they were like $60 each or something.
I don't think even a FP20k could max these guys out, certainly not the 240V version.

I think I listened to everyone . Like a typical AVS'r then I overbought and have extra omron mechanicals and a full box assorted SSR's with heatsinks in storage. 25A's and 40A's.

I'd say the SSR would be the only thing worth trying. Good luck with the fp20k. I don't browse like I use to but every now and then check the forum to see what peeps are into.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

From the dead...
I have a 240v/30a Simbosen FP22000Q that will need to be turned on by my Marantz. I didn’t see any 240v solutions here, only some that may be capable of supporting it. Did anyone make a box for 240v?

 

[Mike Garrett]

I just use a mechanical relay in a box that is powered off of 120 volts control. I then have a Furman power sequencer that switches on the relays, when prepro is turned on. Prepro sends 12 volt trigger to the furman, to power on the relays in stages. Been using this system for several years. Currently have 13 two channel pro amps powered this way.

The nice thing about this, the Furman has surge protection, so spikes should not be able to get through to my equipment and with mechanical relay in off position, when not in use, a spike can't get through. So my amps are pretty well protected, when system is not in use.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

Thanks @Mike Garrett
When I was researching the Furman lineup I didn’t see anything that supplied 240v/30a. I did fine one that could plug into 240v but only supplied 120v.

Looking at Amazon, this sort of relay seems like it’s too easy. I doubt my amp will ever draw 30amps and certainly shouldn’t do it continuously, so I wonder if this is the next step or if I stick with what I read here about the mechanical relays and using a diode.
Yeeco 30A High Current 12V Contactor Relay Switch Power Switch DC Power Switching Control Board Control Module Electrical Relay switches for Cooler Heater Refit Water Heater Control Amazon.com: Yeeco 30A High Current 12V Contactor Relay Switch Power Switch DC Power Switching Control Board Control Module Electrical Relay switches for Cooler Heater Refit Water Heater Control: Electronics

Did all of the relays need additional power above and beyond what the 12v remote signal offered? Is this why people were using wall-warts and atx power supplies?
I have to imagine since the clones have been so popular lately in 240v that someone is doing something like this.

 

[Mike Garrett]

Thanks @Mike Garrett
When I was researching the Furman lineup I didn’t see anything that supplied 240v/30a. I did fine one that could plug into 240v but only supplied 120v.

Looking at Amazon, this sort of relay seems like it’s too easy. I doubt my amp will ever draw 30amps and certainly shouldn’t do it continuously, so I wonder if this is the next step or if I stick with what I read here about the mechanical relays and using a diode.
Yeeco 30A High Current 12V Contactor Relay Switch Power Switch DC Power Switching Control Board Control Module Electrical Relay switches for Cooler Heater Refit Water Heater Control Amazon.com: Yeeco 30A High Current 12V Contactor Relay Switch Power Switch DC Power Switching Control Board Control Module Electrical Relay switches for Cooler Heater Refit Water Heater Control: Electronics

Did all of the relays need additional power above and beyond what the 12v remote signal offered? Is this why people were using wall-warts and atx power supplies?
I have to imagine since the clones have been so popular lately in 240v that someone is doing something like this.

You buy a sequencer that does 120 volt power. You buy a relay that has 120 volt on the control side. You buy a relay that can handle 30 amps at 240 volts that has 120 volt on the control side. You mount the relay in a box. You connect a power cord to the 120 volt control side. You connect a twist lock cord with male plug (if that is what you want to use) to the relay and on the other side of the relay you attach a cord with the receptacle that you need to match your amp.

From your AVR or prepro you run two conductor wire from the 12 volt trigger output to the 12 volt trigger input on the Furman. You plug the 120 volt cord from control side of relay to one of the delay outlets on the back of the Furman. You set up the 12 volt trigger in the AVR/prepro to be powered on at power up. Now when you press power on the AVR/prepro a 12 volt signal is sent to the furman and it powers on the control outlet on the back of the Furman. this send power to the control side of the relay and closes it, allowing the 240 volts power to go to the amp.

The Furman has six outlets in the back that are controlled. Two outlets are stage 1, next two outlets are stage 2 and last two outlets are stage 3. You can even adjust the delay between stages, if wanted. Power down will be in reverse order.


It has been a flawless, always worked correctly system for many years. I have tried some of the solid state relays, but they never seem to last. Once I went to mechanical relays, completely issue free. When I bought the relays, I got a couple extra and have never needed them.