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Thanks @Mike Garrett
When I was researching the Furman lineup I didn’t see anything that supplied 240v/30a. I did fine one that could plug into 240v but only supplied 120v.

Looking at Amazon, this sort of relay seems like it’s too easy. I doubt my amp will ever draw 30amps and certainly shouldn’t do it continuously, so I wonder if this is the next step or if I stick with what I read here about the mechanical relays and using a diode.
Yeeco 30A High Current 12V Contactor Relay Switch Power Switch DC Power Switching Control Board Control Module Electrical Relay switches for Cooler Heater Refit Water Heater Control Amazon.com: Yeeco 30A High Current 12V Contactor Relay Switch Power Switch DC Power Switching Control Board Control Module Electrical Relay switches for Cooler Heater Refit Water Heater Control: Electronics

Did all of the relays need additional power above and beyond what the 12v remote signal offered? Is this why people were using wall-warts and atx power supplies?
I have to imagine since the clones have been so popular lately in 240v that someone is doing something like this.
That relay you linked will work great. I have built many of these devices using it or one very similar.
 

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That relay you linked will work great. I have built many of these devices using it or one very similar.
Ya know, when I went back and read the reviews, the guy who bought it for 240VAC noted that it won't work for 240VAC and that both inputs/outputs were shorted together on the board.
There was a reviewer who built a 120VAC box for his home theater on there too, so it seems that it will work for 120V which is what I'm sure most people would use it for.
 

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Ya know, when I went back and read the reviews, the guy who bought it for 240VAC noted that it won't work for 240VAC and that both inputs/outputs were shorted together on the board.
There was a reviewer who built a 120VAC box for his home theater on there too, so it seems that it will work for 120V which is what I'm sure most people would use it for.
It's a single relay. You have 12v+, 12v-, then a single passthrough. That passthrough can handle the voltage. If your device is 240v, meaning it has 120 in 2 separate wires and a common, then cant you just put the common on it? The break in common should be enough to power your device.
 

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It's a single relay. You have 12v+, 12v-, then a single passthrough. That passthrough can handle the voltage. If your device is 240v, meaning it has 120 in 2 separate wires and a common, then cant you just put the common on it? The break in common should be enough to power your device.
I guess you’re asking me the same question I am trying to get an answer for, lol.
Isn’t 240V (2) 120v hots and (1) ground? I don’t believe any of those are referred to as common... but I’m not an electrician.
 

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I guess you’re asking me the same question I am trying to get an answer for, lol.
Isn’t 240V (2) 120v hots and (1) ground? I don’t believe any of those are referred to as common... but I’m not an electrician.
Common & Neutral are the same. The 240v is 2 hots at 120v, 1 neutral and 1 safety ground. Switching the neutral with a device like shown would kill the circuit. The other option is to find a dual post relay to switch both hots.
 
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