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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am doing a HT setup for a friend. There are both high voltage and low voltage single and double gang boxes that I need to extend wiring to/from. I have plenty of experience in installing both new and old work boxes, but not much in modifying new work boxes. Would I be better off trying to remove the new work boxes and just replace them with old work boxes? If so what is the easiest way to get them out of there with the least damage to the drywall. Or would I be better off just drilling holes in the existing new work boxes and go from there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, so I can't drill into high voltage boxes, but I assume I can do anything I want to low voltage boxes (no code rules at all on LV here). I think I can get away with just knocking out one of the tabs on the HV boxes and running romex up/down to a new spot for an old work box. I don't need to extend the faces of the boxes away from the drywall.
 

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Yes, you can pull the romex through the old box into a new box, provided you can provide the proper strain relief at the new box.


The brackets are not meant to extent the box from the face of the drywall. They are designed for the condition that exists when the box is recessed too far back from the face of the drywall, which is what I interpreted your condition to be.


Are you just trying to accommodate another layer of drywall and/or GOM or are you trying to change the locations? The BE1/2 will work in the former. In the latter you will of course need a new box.


Regards,

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry I was not clear. I just need to move wiring around. No treatments will go on the walls over the boxes, and the boxes are recessed the standard amount (OK).
 

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On removing new work boxes, I was told before by an instructor a long time ago and I also did thid in my new home more recently so i could run wiring to new lighting fixtures in my kids bedrooms. Get yourself a piece of 2x4 (about a 1-2' piece) remove the switch or outlet after shutting off the power, position the 2x4 in the box angled away from the stud and proceed to strike the 2x4 with a hammer. This should knock the box away from the stud. The wiring should keep the box from dropping. Pull out the box, do your work and use an old work box to replace. Hopefully there will be minimal drywal damage.


1 room I did no damage, other room minimal repair work needed. Good luck.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 /forum/post/12919798


On removing new work boxes, I was told before by an instructor a long time ago and I also did thid in my new home more recently so i could run wiring to new lighting fixtures in my kids bedrooms. Get yourself a piece of 2x4 (about a 1-2' piece) remove the switch or outlet after shutting off the power, position the 2x4 in the box angled away from the stud and proceed to strike the 2x4 with a hammer. This should knock the box away from the stud. The wiring should keep the box from dropping. Pull out the box, do your work and use an old work box to replace. Hopefully there will be minimal drywal damage.


1 room I did no damage, other room minimal repair work needed. Good luck.

just be sure you don't get so gung-ho and punch through the other side of the wall
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 /forum/post/12919798


On removing new work boxes, I was told before by an instructor a long time ago and I also did thid in my new home more recently so i could run wiring to new lighting fixtures in my kids bedrooms. Get yourself a piece of 2x4 (about a 1-2' piece) remove the switch or outlet after shutting off the power, position the 2x4 in the box angled away from the stud and proceed to strike the 2x4 with a hammer. This should knock the box away from the stud. The wiring should keep the box from dropping. Pull out the box, do your work and use an old work box to replace. Hopefully there will be minimal drywall damage.


1 room I did no damage, other room minimal repair work needed. Good luck.

I have used this method successfully both with 2x4's and other scrap wood/pipe. I have also used a sawzall/reciprocating saw (with a metal cutting blade) to simply cut the nails. If you are careful you can simply use an oversize switch/outlet cover to hide the small cuts. Worst case scenario you only have 2 small lines to Spackle.
 
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