It's doable on a "will it actually function" level, but realistically very unlikely it'll work well or sound good in any capacity. Vehicle powered subs are generally designed for a ton of cabin gain, and will sound very weak in the home without more power, larger enclosures, and/or DSP. In other words I really wouldn't bother, and in fact recommend against wasting your time.
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Replacing Home Subwoofer w/ Car Subwoofer
Hello,
This is my first post here, so if this has already been answered, please feel free to share the link to the proper thread. I've seen a lot of posts about people installing their car amp and subwoofer in their homes with a 12v power inverter. I'm wondering if I can do something similar but with less work... I currently have a home theater 10" subwoofer at home and a 12" powered car subwoofer that I don't use. In theory, can I power my 12" auto subwoofer with my home theater amplifier? For example, if I were to replace the amp in the powered car subwoofer with the amp to my home theater subwoofer, would that work? Or is it the subwoofer itself (and not the amp) that has to run on 12v? The home sub is 100 watts and the car sub is 150 watts RMS, 450 watts max.
The home subwoofer is a 10" polk audio sub with 100 watts power.
And the car subwoofer is a 12" Fusion Powered Sub (150 watts rms, 450 watts max).
Thanks!
This is my first post here, so if this has already been answered, please feel free to share the link to the proper thread. I've seen a lot of posts about people installing their car amp and subwoofer in their homes with a 12v power inverter. I'm wondering if I can do something similar but with less work... I currently have a home theater 10" subwoofer at home and a 12" powered car subwoofer that I don't use. In theory, can I power my 12" auto subwoofer with my home theater amplifier? For example, if I were to replace the amp in the powered car subwoofer with the amp to my home theater subwoofer, would that work? Or is it the subwoofer itself (and not the amp) that has to run on 12v? The home sub is 100 watts and the car sub is 150 watts RMS, 450 watts max.
The home subwoofer is a 10" polk audio sub with 100 watts power.
And the car subwoofer is a 12" Fusion Powered Sub (150 watts rms, 450 watts max).
Thanks!
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
It is the amp.Or is it the subwoofer itself (and not the amp) that has to run on 12v?
Excellent, thanks for the tips. The home sub bumps pretty well, I was just trying to get more bang for my buck and see if I swapped out the subwoofer and ran the same amp if I could get some more high quality bass but it sounds like it wouldn't be worth the trouble.
That Polk is a matched set. The speaker is designed to work with the amp and enclosure. If you change any one of those components in the equation, you're likely to waste a whole bunch of time and effort on something that sounds worse.
Check out some of the projects in this section for some ideas on DIY projects that are fairly simple to build skill-wise, and will provide a vast improvement over your Polk 10".
That being said, you may be able to utilize that 12" in a home enclosure. What is the make/model? Perhaps someone on here can look at the specs and steer you towards an enclosure that might work well with it. However, I'd skip the car amp, getting them to run on a power supply is more effort than it's worth.
Check out some of the projects in this section for some ideas on DIY projects that are fairly simple to build skill-wise, and will provide a vast improvement over your Polk 10".
That being said, you may be able to utilize that 12" in a home enclosure. What is the make/model? Perhaps someone on here can look at the specs and steer you towards an enclosure that might work well with it. However, I'd skip the car amp, getting them to run on a power supply is more effort than it's worth.
It's a 12" Fusion Powered Subwoofer (I believe they're discontinued).That being said, you may be able to utilize that 12" in a home enclosure. What is the make/model? Perhaps someone on here can look at the specs and steer you towards an enclosure that might work well with it. However, I'd skip the car amp, getting them to run on a power supply is more effort than it's worth.
It's this one here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044DED9I/
I can't find a link to just the subwoofer.
Here's a link to the specs https://www.manualslib.com/manual/464073/Fusion-Active-Wedge-Cs-Aw1120.html
I can't find a link to just the subwoofer.
Here's a link to the specs https://www.manualslib.com/manual/464073/Fusion-Active-Wedge-Cs-Aw1120.html
Model CS-AW1120Here's a link to the specs https://www.manualslib.com/manual/464073/Fusion-Active-Wedge-Cs-Aw1120.html
Need the specs for the driver itself, in order to model it properly. You're better off just buying/building another sub.
Open up the box and see if you can find a model# on the driver. It would be easy if it were the EN-SW120 in there. You could try tech support to see if they can provide the T-S paramaters. Worth a phone call or email.
Good luck!
Good luck!
The only thing worse than 12v, is
You can use a car audio sub and get good results but you need to be careful. In essence a driver is a driver the only big difference is when you venture in to pro audio woofers. Then they don't dig quite as deep but many here have used with outstanding results. Other than that a lot of the high excursion drivers are car subs.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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