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I'm interested in replacing my current Antec NSK2400 with a Silverstone LC20B-M. This is primarily because all my other kit is black, and the Antec has a silver front, so it looks out of place. I've looked at the Antec Fusion Remote Black, and it would in many sense be ideal as everything I current have would fit, but for some reason Antec use a very poor quality LCD display in the case, yet in the silver version they use a true VFD!


The LC20B-M keeps most things hidden behind flaps (nice), and has the integrated VFD (not the awful LCD one either). I currently use a couple of 120mm Noctua fans @800RPM to cool the Antec. Obviously these won't work in the Silverstone as it seems to use 80mm & 92mm fans. I'll almost certainly use Noctua again, but how many fans would I optimally need? Five fans (which the case can take) seems overkill. I don't overclock at all, and don't play games either. Any owners of this case care to comment on design/ease of access/cooling performance? I'd be interested in any comments.
 

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Thanks. So the LC20B-M, in your opinion, is a good case, but airflow could be better? Do you have the 'M' version with VFD? Is the VFD a full iMON (i.e. works with SoundGraphs software), or is it a cutdown OEM version that only works with SilverStone's s/w? Also, there are iMON VFD's that will display the system clock when in S3 standby. Is this one of them?
 

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Yea it's a very good case, airflow could be better and yes I have the m version. As far as I know it is a full iMON one as it comes with soundgraph software. Not sure about the clock during S3 as my rig never goes in to standby. I think I used the VFD for about a month total, it's more bling then anything else.
 

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My advice is to get the best looking/cooling case you can get without a VFD. They are practically useless when in a standard home theater setup as you can see them from the sitting position, and are a nightmare to get working properly. I have one of the easier ones to get working (IRTrans) and I never use it for anything, it's just flair.
 

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Agreed. I found that I was rarely using the front display for anything...not really easy to read from 10' away so it became somewhat pointless.


It would be different if they were still using actual VFDs instead of LCDs or LEDs, but VFDs are too expensive.


I have the nMedia PC H1000b as my working chassis right now, where the display is supposed to sit is a window. I just took off the front bezel and paiting the inside of the window flast black and you can't even tell there was a window at all. It looks like just one solid stripe across the entire front of the chassis. It came out really good.
 

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What do you mean by a true VFD on the Silverstone? I have the Fusion Remote Black and have not been disappointed with the VFD. The remote is also very good as it allows you to power on/off the HTPC. The only thing I was disappointed in was the instruction manual. It did not explain how to connect the VFD to control the on/off. I actually figured it out by locking at the manual for the Remote Mini.


BTW, the VFD is made by SoundGraph. It is almost identical to their iMON VFD. The buttons are programmable for each program. What I mean is that you can program the fast forward button to do one thing in Windows Media Player and a different thing when using PowerDVD. It can also get weather reports, show you system resource usage, news, and has a very nice equalizer when in a media player.
 

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I think he means that the early Fusion 430 chassis (which were all Silver at the time), used a VFD. However, the newer ones are now shipping with a LCD display (not VFD). I think it is both black and silver chassis that are using the LCD.


VFD = Vacuum Florecent Display

www.18minutes.net/kennchen/vfd.jpg


LCD = Liquid Crystal Display

http://www.orientdisplay.com/images/...-scale-cog.jpg


VFDs tend to be brighter and have better contrast which makes them much easier to read from a distance. VFDs are typically used in DVD players, VCRs, etc. They are more costly than LCDs. Not as easy to get mulitple lines or higher resolutions.


LCDs tend to be cheaper and available in more colors, etc. Easy to get muliple lines of text in the same amount of space. More individual pixels you can turn on/off and create little icons, and such. However, they don't have a sharp a contrast between lit and unlit sections. You get a lot of bleeding from the lit pixes over to the unlit pixels. This makes it much more difficult to read from 10' away.


OLEDs are coming but they are pretty expensive right now but they look great.


Generally, if you want to get a sense of where things are going, look at the displays used on car stereo's. They are often one of the first segments to adopt new multi line display technologies.
 

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Thx for the clarification Jack. I am sitting exactly 16 feet from the HTPC and can read the display clearly FIW. I considered the Silverstone vs. the Antec but the Antec was a bit cheaper and the build quality is excellent.
 

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I've used many Silverstone cases for HTPC builds and most of them came with displays of some sort. I think without exception I disconnected the VFD, LCD or whatever type of display because they all simply become light pollution in a light-controlled theater setting.


I've found air flow to be decent but have always used as many fans as practical as well as an aftermarket CPU heatsink fan to help reduce heat... that combo seems to work best especially when HTPC gaming. Never had heat issues with any of my Silverstone setups and would recommend their cases.


Just be careful with BD-rom/DVD-rom placement as there are some motherboards that are not compatible with the Lascala placement.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tman247 /forum/post/16824063


all my other kit is black, and the Antec has a silver front, so it looks out of place.

Painting the front panel with black would be another solution. Use Matt Black spay can or Semi Gloss Black . (I can't guarantee the result, though.
)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by renethx /forum/post/16833185


Painting the front panel with black would be another solution. Use Matt Black spay can or Semi Gloss Black . (I can't guarantee the result, though.
)

I second that recommendation. Lots less expensive and you could do it in a day.


BT
 

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