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Retrofit Home Setup.

3K views 26 replies 6 participants last post by  New2Theater 
#1 ·
Hello All,

What I have now:
  1. A 2 Story with Basement, retrofit 1 year old home with no cat5 and Coax to 3 rooms. Pretty Crappy, I know, but the family and I love the home and it had just been 2 weeks since I started reading AVS and other forums.
  2. Components: Fully Upgrading, Mostly except for Minor Things that will stay (2 SDTV's and Xbox 360(Would like direction on how to integrate the 360 and have it more useful to HA and HT).
What I want:


A fully integrated Audio and Video with Lighting, Security, Climate and Irrigation Control & Complete Networked Pc's(7 Desktops, 4 Laptops). I am Having an electrician come out and give me an estimate on how much it would cost and the time it would take to run the cables for me, Now I want to have a clear idea on what and where do I run the cabling too.


Each Room and What I would like to have:
  1. Foyer : Lighting(Chandelier)
  2. Main Level Hallway : Lighting
  3. Living Room : Lighting
  4. Dining Room : Lighting & Temperature Control (I.e. This is where the current thermostat is)
  5. Family Room : LCD TV-Audio, Video Distribution & Lighting Control
  6. Kitchen and Breakfast Nook: Audio, Touch Panel (Future Upgrade) & Lighting Control
  7. Library : Lighting, Desktop Computer, BUT LCD TV with Audio, Video Distribution in the Future
  8. Master Bedroom: LCD TV- Audio , Video Distribution & Lighting Control & Temperature Control ( I.e. This is where the second Thermostat is)
  9. Master Bathroom: LCD TV - Audio, Video Distribution & Lighting Control and A recommendation on a Waterproof Remote
  10. Bedroom 1 : SDTV-Video Distribution & Lighting Control & Desktop Computer
  11. Bedroom 2 : SDTV-Video Distribution & Lighting Control & Desktop Computer
  12. Bedroom 3 : LCD TV- Video Distribution & Lighting Control
  13. Game Room: LCD TV-Audio, Video Distribution & Lighting Control
  14. Basement :

Office Space-Main: 3 Desktop Computers & Lighting Control

Office Space-Secondary: 2 Desktop Computers & Lighting Control

Dedicated HT ( Future i.e. 3-4 Months from now) : Projector, Curtains & Lighting Control
What I already know:
  1. I will have all of this wire pulled to a central location in the basement near the future Dedicated HT.
  2. I will be running 3 Cat-5 or similar to each of the location where I need Audio and Video Distribution.
  3. Lighting: I will be going with Insteon and Doing Lighting Floor by Floor, starting with the Main Level. I have been reading the forum quite a bit and I see some have problems with Insteon but these seem to be pertaining with Installation Issues. I will have an electrician do the installation for me.
  4. Touch Panel: I will first use the Fujitsu 3400 as I have read the threads by IVB and others and later upgrade to a much substantial solution.
What I want to know and learn:
  1. Video: I would like to distribute the following to each room:

    **DVD Changer ( Recommend on Which one would be best, of course don't want to go overboard on the price)(HD content would be nice)

    **Digital Cable Receiver ( Have not Decided on Cox Digital Cable or Verizon Fios but most probably it will be the Verizon as it is Fiber Optic), Do I need to buy a receiver for each room that I want have digital cable to?

    **HTPC

    **VCR: The family watches a lot of old movies that come on VHS, I already have multiple VCR's but if I need to buy something else please recommend.
    ****PLEASE RECOMMED on how to distribute this video to each room, I have looked at many things but If something fits my situation I would like to know, since these are pricey, I don't mind waiting for a good deal on new or used ones like others have****

  2. Audio: Would anyone Recommend me even trying to run Speaker wire to the ceiling or in wall in a retrofit home? I have been reading a wireless solution is better (Sonos etc.)? Please shed some light on this.
  3. What type of wire should I have pulled whether It be depending on the solution or the room? I.e. Cat-5? Cat-5e? Cat-6(for Desktops)?
  4. I will be having 3 Cat-X (don't know which one is best for what room) to each of the LCD location and 1 to each Desktop Location. What else do I need to run? I don't know if I need to run RG-6 to every LCD location??? As I will be using Digital cable and want to just have all the receivers located centrally in the basement.
  5. Thermostat: How do I incorporate this, will this be wireless? Or Do I need to run Cat-5 or other wiring to each Thermostat location (2 Locations).
  6. I only want to have one Security Camera I.e. the front door: I need to run a Cat-5 and RG-6 to this location Correct? Please shed some light on this and other suggestions if you may have.
  7. Security within the house: I was going to have ADT come and install their products in places that I need them. Should I stop it and install something else for Doors, Windows etc., now that I want to have it integrated to the system? Or I need to run some cable to where the ADT panel is?
  8. Irrigation: How do I incorporate this? I have tried to search the automation Forums on this but have been unsuccessful. I DO NOT have a current sprinkler system so I will incorporate based on what is recommended and liked already. Please have some suggestions.
  9. Controlling everything: I am pretty much in the dark in this aspect or how to have my existing remote control for my TV's to work with the distribution integrated. I am leaning towards either CQC or MAINLOBBY but don't understand fully, honestly I understand the concept of Rs232, Usb_Urit such only with limited knowledge. So please direct me on how to everything incorporated to a Fujitsu 3400(The IR and RF part).
  10. If I forgot anything and you would like to give a noob any Advice or Criticism or Simply ask Questions for more info, please do.

If you reached this far by reading everything then WOW but all jokes aside, I know this is a long post, Thanks for taking the time to read and help. Have a Good day
 
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1
#2 ·
Ok, I just got your screen handle. Very clever...


Quote:
Originally Posted by H(A&T) /forum/post/0


Hello All,


Video: I would like to distribute the following to each room:

**DVD Changer ( Recommend on Which one would be best, of course don't want to go overboard on the price)(HD content would be nice)

I'm currently not totally thrilled with the PQ on the Sony 777ES, but it is serial controllable and you can always put a scaler in front of it to make it better.
Quote:

**Digital Cable Receiver ( Have not Decided on Cox Digital Cable or Verizon Fios but most probably it will be the Verizon as it is Fiber Optic), Do I need to buy a receiver for each room that I want have digital cable to?

Not if you use an HTPC to record, and use your component and a video switcher to distribute. You could even get an MVP-type device for rooms where you just want local simple control [not controllable though]

Quote:
****PLEASE RECOMMED on how to distribute this video to each room, I have looked at many things but If something fits my situation I would like to know, since these are pricey, I don't mind waiting for a good deal on new or used ones like others have****

Get a video switcher, ie autopatch/neothings/etc. Distribute component to the rooms. Or, put a PC in each room, but I know i'm not allowed to do that :)

Quote:
Audio: Would anyone Recommend me even trying to run Speaker wire to the ceiling or in wall in a retrofit home? I have been reading a wireless solution is better (Sonos etc.)? Please shed some light on this.

If you're getting an electrician anyhow, absolutely run speaker wire from ceiling->inwall keypad/volume control locaiton, then homerun to the amp. Life is much simpler this way. I don't think the sonos is wireless to the speaker, just to the remote unit so that doesn't really help here.

Quote:
[*]What type of wire should I have pulled whether It be depending on the solution or the room? I.e. Cat-5? Cat-5e? Cat-6(for Desktops)?

Depends on which device you're talking about, but tons of wire ideally needed. CAT5 can be used for either network or RS232 control, 18-2 for power for touchscreens/etc, 3RG6 to each room (or minicoax), and obviously speaker-wire .

Don't bother with CA3 for telephone, just use CAT5.

Quote:
[*]I will be having 3 Cat-X (don't know which one is best for what room) to each of the LCD location and 1 to each Desktop Location. What else do I need to run? I don't know if I need to run RG-6 to every LCD location??? As I will be using Digital cable and want to just have all the receivers located centrally in the basement.

By "LCD", do you mean TV? If so, yes, run 3RG6 so you can distribute component.
Quote:
[*]Thermostat: How do I incorporate this, will this be wireless? Or Do I need to run Cat-5 or other wiring to each Thermostat location (2 Locations).

Your call, but i've heard horror stories about wireless thermo's. I ran CAT5 to the thermo, and hooked it into PC on the other end.
Quote:
[*]I only want to have one Security Camera I.e. the front door: I need to run a Cat-5 and RG-6 to this location Correct? Please shed some light on this and other suggestions if you may have.

And 18-2 for power. If you're only doing 1, I'd strongly recommend an IP camera. No muss no fuss, if you get wireless you don't even need anything other than power.
Quote:
[*]Security within the house: I was going to have ADT come and install their products in places that I need them. Should I stop it and install something else for Doors, Windows etc., now that I want to have it integrated to the system? Or I need to run some cable to where the ADT panel is?

If you do not already have ADT, I'd recommend something integration friendly, like the Elk or the Omni. Otherwise it won't hook into your system, and you won't be able to re-use your equipment for HA purposes (ie use motion sensors or door sensors for automation purposes, or shutdown the house lights/heat/etc upon arming the security system)
Quote:
[*]Irrigation: How do I incorporate this? I have tried to search the automation Forums on this but have been unsuccessful. I DO NOT have a current sprinkler system so I will incorporate based on what is recommended and liked already. Please have some suggestions.

Read up on the rain8net - very simple and very cheap. It's basically a set of relays that link into your PC via RS232.
Quote:
[*]Controlling everything: I am pretty much in the dark in this aspect or how to have my existing remote control for my TV's to work with the distribution integrated. I am leaning towards either CQC or MAINLOBBY but don't understand fully, honestly I understand the concept of Rs232, Usb_Urit such only with limited knowledge. So please direct me on how to everything incorporated to a Fujitsu 3400(The IR and RF part).

Either a very simple or very complex answer based on what you mean. With CQC, think of it more like "FrontPage" where you build the pages you want however you want, then use the CQC interface viewer program on the 3400 to view it just like you'd use internet explorer to view frontpage screens.
 
#3 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by IVB /forum/post/0


Ok, I just got your screen handle. Very clever...

Thanks

Quote:
I'm currently not totally thrilled with the PQ on the Sony 777ES, but it is serial controllable and you can always put a scaler in front of it to make it better.

Ok will look into that

Quote:
Not if you use an HTPC to record, and use your component and a video switcher to distribute. You could even get an MVP-type device for rooms where you just want local simple control [not controllable though

Nice! I will definetely look into that. Any particular threads that rundown on the "how to's"

Quote:
Get a video switcher, ie autopatch/neothings/etc. Distribute component to the rooms. Or, put a PC in each room, but I know i'm not allowed to do that :)

I did consider that for a little while, but am concerned with the potential problems that may arise with that solution. Like the computer needing to be powered on all the time, video cards, cabling, decor. But if the problems I mentioned are not really that big in a PC type solution, please suggest so.I found a Autopatch 8x4 Matrix Switcher for a pretty cheap price. I dont mind just using 4 rooms at first. But my question is, if I buy another 8x4 matrix later on, another autopatch, could i expand or network it?


Quote:
If you're getting an electrician anyhow, absolutely run speaker wire from ceiling->inwall keypad/volume control locaiton, then homerun to the amp. Life is much simpler this way. I don't think the sonos is wireless to the speaker, just to the remote unit so that doesn't really help here.

Great! So run it from the speaker location to volume control location then to the amp.[/quote]


Quote:
Depends on which device you're talking about, but tons of wire ideally needed. CAT5 can be used for either network or RS232 control, 18-2 for power for touchscreens/etc, 3RG6 to each room (or minicoax), and obviously speaker-wire .

Don't bother with CA3 for telephone, just use CAT5.

What type of Cat5 and where is the best place to buy? Speaker Wire? RG6?


Quote:
By "LCD", do you mean TV? If so, yes, run 3RG6 so you can distribute component.

Sorry about the confusion but I thought that was the reason to run 3 cat5? so that you could connect those 3 cables to a Wall plate, which have component out and others? or am I understanding that incorrectly?Then whats the point of 3 cat-5?

Quote:
Your call, but i've heard horror stories about wireless thermo's. I ran CAT5 to the thermo, and hooked it into PC on the other end.

Great! so any particular thermo's that are rated best? I have looked at some from insteon(If i remember correctly)


Quote:
And 18-2 for power. If you're only doing 1, I'd strongly recommend an IP camera. No muss no fuss, if you get wireless you don't even need anything other than power.

Awesome. Ill will look at both IP and Wireless.

Quote:
If you do not already have ADT, I'd recommend something integration friendly, like the Elk or the Omni. Otherwise it won't hook into your system, and you won't be able to re-use your equipment for HA purposes (ie use motion sensors or door sensors for automation purposes, or shutdown the house lights/heat/etc upon arming the security system)

Will read up on it.

Quote:
Read up on the rain8net - very simple and very cheap. It's basically a set of relays that link into your PC via RS232.

Very good on this aspect as well.

Quote:
Either a very simple or very complex answer based on what you mean. With CQC, think of it more like "FrontPage" where you build the pages you want however you want, then use the CQC interface viewer program on the 3400 to view it just like you'd use internet explorer to view frontpage screens.

Ok I understand the CQC viewer interface part. But the part I didnt uderstand was, ok I will try to break it down, When I select "play dvd, from source 1 on zone1" on the 3400 with CQC, how will that dvd know to play? I.e How will the signal be sent to the "source" devices.


Thanks for your awesome replies.
 
#4 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by H(A&T) /forum/post/0


I did consider that for a little while, but am concerned with the potential problems that may arise with that solution. Like the computer needing to be powered on all the time, video cards, cabling, decor. But if the problems I mentioned are not really that big in a PC type solution, please suggest so.I found a Autopatch 8x4 Matrix Switcher for a pretty cheap price. I dont mind just using 4 rooms at first. But my question is, if I buy another 8x4 matrix later on, another autopatch, could i expand or network it?

Not entirely sure, but I'm sure someone on the CQC forums would.

Quote:
So run it from the speaker location to volume control location then to the amp.

yep.

Quote:
What type of Cat5 and where is the best place to buy? Speaker Wire? RG6?

Many folks more educated on this than I - I typically get the brand name stuff "just in case" the wire is better.

Quote:
Sorry about the confusion but I thought that was the reason to run 3 cat5? so that you could connect those 3 cables to a Wall plate, which have component out and others? or am I understanding that incorrectly?Then whats the point of 3 cat-5?

Dunno why you'd do 3 CAT5 for component, i've only used 3 RG6, but perhaps one of the newer products uses that. (ie, i know audio authority has some HD over CAT5 stuff)

Quote:
Great! so any particular thermo's that are rated best? I have looked at some from insteon(If i remember correctly)

Insteon is a power-line-controlled protocol subject to interference. What i'm talking about is a direct hardwired connection from the thermo to the PC. I have an Aprilaire 8870 (2 actually).

Quote:
Ok I understand the CQC viewer interface part. But the part I didnt uderstand was, ok I will try to break it down, When I select "play dvd, from source 1 on zone1" on the 3400 with CQC, how will that dvd know to play? I.e How will the signal be sent to the "source" devices.


Thanks for your awesome replies.

CQC is a fully networked solution - you connect the CQC server to the 777 via serial, setup a driver named something like "my-777". In the Interface Editor, you create a template that basically tells CQC "when the user presses a piece of cover art, send the album id to the my-777 player". Hence, when you pull up that template on the 3400 and press the cover art you want, the viewer communicates to the server and tells it what to do.
 
#5 ·
If you need high voltage lines run for new lights or other high voltage stuff, certainly hirre an electrician to do that. They are expert in high voltage. Don't hire an electrician to do your low voltage, they are not expert in that. Some may be able to do both well, but they are few and far between.


Hire a systems integrator to assist you in your automation/audio/video project. You have way to many questions and your goals are very advanced. You can certainly do it yourself, but if you are hiring someone to run your wire, hire the right company for that aspect. The system design is highly important. You can most likely find a company that will assist with design, get it right and then do your prewire. You can then take over if that is what you want.


Ask IVB. He has said many times that he would not do his own wiring again. Or words to that effect.


Hire a plumber to do plumbing, hire an electrician to do electrical work, hire a systems integration company for low voltage/automation/audio/video.
 
#6 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by H(A&T) /forum/post/0


...I did consider that for a little while, but am concerned with the potential problems that may arise with that solution. Like the computer needing to be powered on all the time, video cards, cabling, decor. But if the problems I mentioned are not really that big in a PC type solution, please suggest so.I found a Autopatch 8x4 Matrix Switcher for a pretty cheap price. I dont mind just using 4 rooms at first. But my question is, if I buy another 8x4 matrix later on, another autopatch, could i expand or network it?...

In most cases, you would not be able to expand the autopatch unit by adding another one. The exception would be if you bought another of the same kind and could pull the cards from one and add it to another, or if you were expanding to add another signal type (i.e., if you had an 8x4 for component video and added another unit to handle the digital audio).


Also, on matrix switches, be sure that you get what you need- there are many variations on different units and it can be confusing. If you need help with a particular one, let me know and I'll do my best.


A little selfish plug- I have a unit for sale that would do what you need. I plan on putting it in the forsale forums here, but until I do, here's a link to it in the CQC forum:
http://www.charmedquark.com/vb_forum...ead.php?t=3516


Quote:
Originally Posted by H(A&T) /forum/post/0


...Sorry about the confusion but I thought that was the reason to run 3 cat5? so that you could connect those 3 cables to a Wall plate, which have component out and others? or am I understanding that incorrectly?Then whats the point of 3 cat-5?...

If you use a CAT5 distribution method, you would either need to use one of the newest matrix switches that handles it, which are pretty expensive, or you need to add baluns on both sides of each CAT5 line. It's much easier and cheaper to use RG6, though I'd also run one or two CAT5's (or better yet, conduit) for future expansion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fletch999 /forum/post/0


...Hire a plumber to do plumbing, hire an electrician to do electrical work, hire a systems integration company for low voltage/automation/audio/video.

I agree whole-heartedly. You don't want to retrofit wiring yourself unless you are pretty experienced doing it. It is a pain in the rear and there are many tricks to make it easier that you will only learn after years of experience.


Also, as fletch999 said, let the electrician do the electrical, but use a CI firm to do the low-volt stuff. You could also hire the CI firm for the whole thing and they would sub out the electrical work, which helps you with coordination.


CJ
 
#7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by fletch999 /forum/post/0


Ask IVB. He has said many times that he would not do his own wiring again. Or words to that effect.


Hire a plumber to do plumbing, hire an electrician to do electrical work, hire a systems integration company for low voltage/automation/audio/video.

Oh heck yes - for some reason I thought the OP was doing that already.


My total runcount is over 125 runs that I need to do and growing as I add new stuff. Given an average time of 2 hours per run including termination, that's 250 hours just for the dang wiring. Needless to say, I'm *perhaps* 55% done after 12 months of doing this, given that I have to sneak time here/there.


Hiring a company would mean they'd bring at least 2 folks, and the manhours would likely be slashed since much of my time is up&down the dang ladder (or into the crawlspace). Hence, if they could do it in 200 hours, and the HV electrican currently charge me $75/hour a la carte so LV won't be more than that, that's $15K for wiring it all. Assuming they cut out some holes that need to be patched, figure $2K for a sheetrock guy.


If you're starting down this road, spec it all out, write the check for $17K and have someone else run the wires, and be done with it. Your wife and family will be MUCH happier.
 
#8 ·
IVB- Again Awesome replies, now I understand how this works with the CQC Interface, Thanks. But man 125 RUNS
That's just wow; I don't think I will nearly have that much, will I? I was looking at bundled cable that has 3 RG6 and 2 Cat5 shielded together, seems pretty viable.


Fletch999- I agree I don't have any experience in the electrical side of things I can program and help myself for the most cases on that part, but like you and others here have said, hire the professional needed for the professional work and I will definitely look into the System Integration Company as well. Thanks.

CJO - I was reading about the Cat5 distribution methods and they do seem really expensive, I really like you unit that you have for sale, I will definitely weigh in the options and shoot you a pm or an email. Thanks.
 
#10 ·
Yeah, dunno what to do with that. My angst with those bundles is that they're just so darn big. My 3RG6 bundle ended up being about 1.5" in total diameter and stiff as heck, couldn't do easy turns.


The 3RG6 minicoax I got from Tri-state electronics is sooo much nicer and has crimpless connectors that are very fast&easty to put on.
 
#11 ·
Please Critique This, I am going to have the electrician come out in max 2 weeks. Break me down

  1. Foyer: 1 Cat5, 1 Rg6, 1 18-2 for Front Door Security camera
  2. Main Level Hallway: 1 Cat5, 1 RG6, 1 18-2 for Main Flush Mounted Touch Panel
  3. Living Room: None
  4. Dining Room: 1 Cat5, & Do I Need 18-2 for the Thermostat?
  5. Family Room: 2 Cat5 & 3 Rg6 for LCD TV
  6. Kitchen and Breakfast Nook: None
  7. Library: Lighting, Desktop Computer, BUT LCD TV with Audio, Video Distribution in the Future
  8. Master Bedroom: First Location: 2 Cat5, 3 RG6 for LCD TV

    Second Location: 1 Cat5 and 18-2, If needed for Thermostat
  9. Master Bathroom: 2 Cat5, 3 RG6 for LCD TV
  10. Bedroom 1: 2 Cat, 3 RG6 for TV and Computer Networking
  11. Bedroom 2: 2 Cat, 3 RG6 for TV and Computer Networking
  12. Bedroom 3: 2 Cat, 3 RG6 for TV and Computer Networking
  13. Game Room: 2 Cat, 3 RG6 for TV
  14. Basement:

Office Space-Main: 1 Cat5 to Each Computer Location here

Office Space-Secondary: 1 Cat5 to Each Computer Location here

Dedicated HT : 3 Cat5 and 6 RG6
 
#12 ·
Any wallmounted touchpanels other than the hallway? What about inwall volume controllers for those rooms - you'd also want to run CAT5 & 18-2 to those locations in case you swap stuff out in the future. Also, what's the RG6 for that's going to the hallway?


Also, I hate seeing the word none, b/c something tells me you'd love to have 1-2 CAT5 there in the future for some darn reason.


Finally, some of the newer TVs have RS232 control (ie panny commercial plasmas). You'd need RS232 over CAT5 to control those.
 
#13 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by IVB /forum/post/0


Any wallmounted touchpanels other than the hallway? What about inwall volume controllers for those rooms - you'd also want to run CAT5 & 18-2 to those locations in case you swap stuff out in the future. Also, what's the RG6 for that's going to the hallway?


Also, I hate seeing the word none, b/c something tells me you'd love to have 1-2 CAT5 there in the future for some darn reason.


Finally, some of the newer TVs have RS232 control (ie panny commercial plasmas). You'd need RS232 over CAT5 to control those.

I was only planning on having one wall mounted touchpanel and I got did not ge the "family approval" for speakers
. I was planning to have the Fujitsu 3400 wireless and i liked what you said in another thread about when a friend comes and they want to change the channel or something, you can just toss the 3400 at em.


The RG6 in the hallway is a type, good catch.


Do i need 18-2 to the thermostats?


and good Idea I will run a cat5 or two to the "none" locations
 
#14 ·
No 18-2 needed for the thermos - they draw their power from the furnace. Also seriously, run an extra CAT5 or two to the TV location, either for the TV or for a local receiver or something that you decide later you want to control.


Oh, and your mistake was in asking for permission for speakers. True story - My wife was out of the house for 2 hours this Sunday. When she came back, there was a speaker in the master bathroom ceiling. She shook her head and said "why in gods name do we want speakers in EVERY room, including the bathrooms? There's just too much stuff here". The best defense is a good offense. I looked at her and said "You're going to be much happier if you do not discuss useless junk around the house with me". Ok, sure, I clenched and waited for the slap, but she got disgusted enough with me that she walked away.


After I'm done writing up my case study on HA, I really should move on to documenting these relationship pearls of wisdom...
 
#15 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by IVB /forum/post/0


No 18-2 needed for the thermos - they draw their power from the furnace. Also seriously, run an extra CAT5 or two to the TV location, either for the TV or for a local receiver or something that you decide later you want to control.


Oh, and your mistake was in asking for permission for speakers. True story - My wife was out of the house for 2 hours this Sunday. When she came back, there was a speaker in the master bathroom ceiling. She shook her head and said "why in gods name do we want speakers in EVERY room, including the bathrooms? There's just too much stuff here". The best defense is a good offense. I looked at her and said "You're going to be much happier if you do not discuss useless junk around the house with me". Ok, sure, I clenched and waited for the slap, but she got disgusted enough with me that she walked away.


After I'm done writing up my case study on HA, I really should move on to documenting these relationship pearls of wisdom...

Cool on the Cat 5 but WOW nice IDea on how to work around it... defintely waiting for that case study.
 
#16 ·
For me, speakers are a must-have. In-ceiling speakers are no more obtrusive than recessed lights and really add to the ambiance. You can use music for so many things- lullabye's at night in the kid's room, Disney music in the playroom, background music in the kitchen, light classical music in the dining room, party music on the deck, hard rock in the workout room, mood music in the master bedroom and bath, etc.


You might want to go ahead and wire a pair of 14/2's through possible volume control/keypad locations and then on to speaker locations even if you don't use them now. You could alway put in a pair outside and see what your family thinks of them.


CJ
 
#17 ·
Yea, Me too. I might have to plead and beg for the speakers, Can you "run" or "fish" speaker wire also? Like you can with Cat5 or Rg6.


Also IF I run 2 Cat5 to each Location and 3RG6, I would use the 3RG6(Audio, Video) for the component and 1 cat5 for IR and 1 for data correct?


AV
 
#18 ·
The three RG6 are component video only. Audio must be run on separately. Another Coax for digital audio or two more for analog. You can use a mini coax bundle for these runs. MAny cable manufacturers make them. We use Audioquest Mac6. It is 6 minicoax and 1 cat5e in a bundle. I also run at least 1 more cat5e to a hidef tv location. This fulfills your need for component video, analog and digital audio and control. To really get it right, I would run the Mac6 plus 3 more Cat5e. Now I can use HDMI with the extra two cat5s (using active 'baluns')


There are so many ways this can be done. You just have to pick something that you feel will work for you now and maybe sometime into the future and fits in your budget.
 
#19 ·
Very Nice Info. Like you said, Im just trying to formulate everything with what Im comfortable and have a concrete plan before I jump in and thanks a lot of threads here and people, I am getting a plan together.


Btw, Just out of curiosity, how does running a cable work? I have no experience on this or even seen it or had it done. I plan on having an electrician come out and do it for me , but was just wodering.


BTW, do u have a link to the AUdioquest cable? I tried to search for it but still havent found it.


Thanks
 
#20 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by H(A&T) /forum/post/0


I got did not ge the "family approval" for speakers


Run the wires anyway. You don't need to actually have speakers. Just leave the speaker wire in the wall or ceiling so it is there in the future.


After all....(repeat after me)....

A wise man once said "It is better to wire and need not, than to need and wired not"
 
#21 ·
Personally, I would NOT use an electrician for the low-volt wires. I doubt that the electrician knows (or cares) much about distances from 120V wires, bend radius, interference from balasts, home-running, etc. A CI company is what you want.


CJ
 
#22 ·
Correct CJO. Use an electrician to run high voltage electrical wiring. That is what they know. Use a competent Custom Install company to run all low-voltage.

www.audioquest.com


then look under custom install., BTW, you will only be able to buy this cable from an authorized dealer, if they will sell it over the counter. It is usually used by these companies in their own installs.
 
#23 ·
Ok, I have been followin this thread couple of question. Once the cable is in every room needed ( 2 Cat5 and 3RG6), The Inputs go into a matrix switcher(Autopatch etc.) and the outputs are connected basing on the room, But I guess you would have to buy interconnects??? for each output. Also after this is connected, How is this connected in each room, wallplates? and then the respective cable to each TV?


Sorry for hijacking this thread but if there are any good "sticky's" or thread that explain how this works, I would appreciate it. Thanks
 
#24 ·
I haven't seen any simple how-to guides on setting up a matrix switcher, but there's plenty of threads that individuals like the OP start both here and on the CQC forum where you'll see similar writeups and potentially diagrams like this one that walk you through the wiring.


To answer your question directly about how to connect them, it's up to you. Some folks like terminating in wallplates and using interconnects to plug them into the TV. Some folks, like myself, prefer to just use a mudring (plastic o-ring) that goes into your wall and run the wire directly to the TV. This is usually determined by 2 factors:

1) WAF, and your ability to hide the mudring/hole behind the TV.

2) Your opinion as to whether interconnects degrade PQ.
 
#25 ·
Ok Thanks for the repy about the Interconnects.


So basically I would use 3RG6 for Component Video and 1 cat5 for Audio and 1 more cat5 for IR or could I use just 1 cat5 for Audio and IR?

Autopatch 1

Autopatch 2


Not sure if those are good solutions for me. Need Component Video and Audio(RCA).



So basically, I would have the component plugs on either end for Video and RCA plugs for Audio and connect?


Thanks
 
#26 ·
You can run 2 more RG6 for the audio, or run some twisted pair. CAT5 should also work, depending on using the correct converters. CAT5 will normally work for IR as well, depending on distance.


The first Autopatch unit is audio only. The second one has one audio unit and one video unit. Without knowing the exact boards that are installed, I'm not sure if the video unit supports HD or not. How many inputs and outputs do you need?


CJ
 
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