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Thanks for the excellent review! One thing I found interesting was the following: "A standard AVR would not be recommend for powering these speakers. A separate amplifier is recommended to drive this speaker to typical playback volumes."

I've been very pleased with how my f226be's sound paired with the Anthem MRX 1120 AVR. I'm considering upgrading to separates, but I am hesitant to drop another ~$10k into my system without knowing whether all that money will result in a noticeable improvement. For processors, I'd likely get either the replacement to Anthem's AVM60 or the JBL SDP-55 if/when all the features work properly without bugs. For amplification (I have 9 channels), I'd get either two ATI 4000 series of class AB (a 3-channel for the front and a 6-channel for the remaining channels) or go with class G in the JBL SDA-2200 for the f226be's and SDA-7120 for the remaining 7 channels.
I was going to say, based on those choices you must be talking with Rex. ;)
 
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The ATI 4003 is a great amp but considering you just got your speakers and the fact that you think it sounds outstanding (which I’m sure it does), maybe waiting a year until you get upgraditis may be something to consider.
I have the 4003 powering my C208 / F228Be with the XMC2 (Dirac 13 point measurement w 6 dB Harmon curve) in my cozy 16’ x 11’ man cave and it’s a small slice of heaven in here. Using a PB16 for the low end duties.

I don’t know if having a fully balanced front end makes a difference, but it sure sounds good as hell 😬.
 

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I can offer this statement from Kevin Voecks, re: bi-amping:

I too, have heard (positive) effects from passive bi-amping. If the speaker is . . .
I have searched for this quote of Kevin Voecks and can't find it anywhere. Where does it come from? Thanks.
 

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I have searched for this quote of Kevin Voecks and can't find it anywhere. Where does it come from? Thanks.
I believe it comes from this post "from the top":


I recommend that folks interested try bi-amping using only with one-speaker and a single blind test (SBT):

1. Spit the signal to the amp using a Y cable (avoid using the processor to remove any other variables).
2. Create a short banana patch cable (10 inches or so).
3. Disconnect the straps.
4. Run both amp channels to the speaker.
5. Play short passages of (10 to 13 seconds) some songs, not to loud 80 dB range. I used female vocals and not overly complex arrangements. A digital library helps here like J River or Roon to allow for quick changes.
6. Have another person switch between the patch and the other amplifier. (without knowing which is which)

I did this with 3 different people and all could recognize the difference and found bi-amped to be clearer.
This is not about power since this should be < 5 watts at a listening position.

Of all the audio tweaks out there, this is a simple a cheap experiment and folks can make up their own mind.

- Rich
 

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I just did some quick measurements of my f206 for @laserjock II and figured I'd post them in the public forum if anyone else is interested.

The f206 feet are approximately 6" apart in the front, 4" apart in the back, and 11" apart front to back. The front of the base is 10" wide and it curves in the back. The base is approximately 14" front to back.

My concrete platforms for them are about 16" x 16" x 8".
 

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For those of you who may be interested but didn't see it in my other thread, I just posted my YouTube video review on the F226Be.



It's a long video. I know. I edited it down as best I could. But this is a complex speaker and takes time to discuss the performance of it both subjectively and objectively (in an appreciable way).

I hope you all enjoy.
 

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I believe it comes from this post "from the top":

So it seems to come from a private correspondence between the two of them. [No wonder I couldn't find it on the web.] That was my suspicion but I wasn't sure. Thanks!
 

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I did this with 3 different people and all could recognize the difference and found bi-amped to be clearer.
Thanks to your posting on this, I tried bi-amping AHB2/Salon2, and found a subjective improvement that's consistent with what you've described. AHB2's output impedance, while low, still rises to as high as 0.235 ohms at 20khz, and I'm guessing that is high enough to matter when driving both high and low in parallel versus separately. I've measured a tiny difference in frequency response, but I think nonlinear distortion may also be a factor.
 

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I recommend that folks interested try bi-amping using only with one-speaker and a single blind test (SBT):

1. Spit the signal to the amp using a Y cable (avoid using the processor to remove any other variables).
2. Create a short banana patch cable (10 inches or so).
3. Disconnect the straps.
4. Run both amp channels to the speaker.
5. Play short passages of (10 to 13 seconds) some songs, not to loud 80 dB range. I used female vocals and not overly complex arrangements. A digital library helps here like J River or Roon to allow for quick changes.
6. Have another person switch between the patch and the other amplifier. (without knowing which is which)
Not sure if you've seen this already but should you or anyone else care I have diagrammed how to do an instantaneous switched comparison of conventional vs. passive bi-amped sound using either an AVR (which offers this feature) or any 4 equally powered channels of amplification set to the exact same gain. Rather than the large delay between sound exposures the listener can hear the comparison instantly at the flick of a switch, which improves the ability to hear subtle distinctions:


3048378


The A or B switch I happen to show is just an example and is good for up to 100 watt/ch amplifiers at full output level. It would easily work with even stronger amps too if they are not run at maximum volume level.
 

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I just did some quick measurements of my f206 for @laserjock II and figured I'd post them in the public forum if anyone else is interested.

The f206 feet are approximately 6" apart in the front, 4" apart in the back, and 11" apart front to back. The front of the base is 10" wide and it curves in the back. The base is approximately 14" front to back.

My concrete platforms for them are about 16" x 16" x 8".
Thanks for the info.
I’m looking at concrete end tables and the like to see if there’s something that would work.
What do you think is maximum height that I should raise them used as side surrounds in a 5.2 setup?
Most of the End tables are probably 14-20” high.
 

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Thanks for the info.
I’m looking at concrete end tables and the like to see if there’s something that would work.
What do you think is maximum height that I should raise them used as side surrounds in a 5.2 setup?
Most of the End tables are probably 14-20” high.
That seems a bit high and I don't know if an end table would be stable enough.
 

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Hey Rex,

Did I read your post on another thread that the Ultima2 line is going away? If so, any timeline and any idea what the product lines will look like?

This is idle curiosity on my part but, you know, it always seems like a good idea to keep an eye on manufacturers that you own.

Bill
 

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Hey Rex,

Did I read your post on another thread that the Ultima2 line is going away? If so, any timeline and any idea what the product lines will look like?

This is idle curiosity on my part but, you know, it always seems like a good idea to keep an eye on manufacturers that you own.

Bill
All I have heard is there is one last run of Salon2's coming. There were a few Voice2's and maybe some Gem2's on sale, not sure if they are still there. Studio2 is gone forever.

I don't know exactly what they have planned or time lines, but something is in the works. Sorry, I can't say more than that. PerformaBe series measures extremely well, so anything above that product line may be substantially more expensive.
 

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First post from a long time lurker. I have decided to go with separates to replace my old Denon AVR 3313ci. For the dedicated amp, I'm debating between ATI 4005 and ATI 525NC.

Which is better, ATI class AB or the Hypex based Class D, to drive my Revel F328be fronts and revel surrounds and center?
 

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I've had that discussion with the guys at ATI. They feel the AT 4000 series (and of course the AT6000 series) are the best sounding amps they have produced.

I use an AT 4000 series and can say it is built like a tank and sounds amazing. I had used a Bryston 4B SST2 amp for a long time, the ATI 4000 amp is easily it's equal.
 

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I just bought a pair of the F36s. The holes in the binding post where the banana plug would go is covered (red and black). Are they stickers? They don’t want to seem to come off.

edit: never mind. It’s a cap.
 

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I've had that discussion with the guys at ATI. They feel the AT 4000 series (and of course the AT6000 series) are the best sounding amps they have produced.

I use an AT 4000 series and can say it is built like a tank and sounds amazing. I had used a Bryston 4B SST2 amp for a long time, the ATI 4000 amp is easily it's equal.
have u compared/ heard bryston B3 series- if so any opinion vs ati? :)
 

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have u compared/ heard bryston B3 series- if so any opinion vs ati? :)
No I have not heard the Bryston B3 series, the prices on the B3 series went up too much IMO. That was a big reason why I tried ATI and am very happy I did. The AT 6000 series would be a close comparison power wise to the 4B cubed. AT6002 list price is $3,995, Bryston 4B3 list price is $6,795.

I find the AT 4000 series to have enough power for my needs with my F208's and C208.
 
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