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The C426Be does not have a dedicated stand for it like the C208. C stand is built so you can bolt the spekaer to the stand. If you were able to take off the C426Be feet, it would not have a way to keep it from rocking due to the curved cabinet.
So what solution are people using to place the C426 on the floor under a projection screen? I think you're saying the traditional C stand won't work, so are people having custom stands built?
 

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I finally got around to watching Hamilton a few nights ago. The wife said “you know, this was the first time I thought the speakers were worth the money”
My 6-year-old has the entire show memorized, curses and all. :oops:
 

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That's the problem with these things, just leads to more upgrades... We expect pictures when the 85" is installed. :)
I was just telling my dad yesterday how I wouldn't mind a 120" screen, but I don't know how I'd wire it now that the walls are up.
 

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I was just telling my dad yesterday how I wouldn't mind a 120" screen, but I don't know how I'd wire it now that the walls are up.
Back to my hammer and prybar solution. It could be worse, I have my entire living room and kitchen demolished for remodel. I am now working on air hammering 1500 sq foot of tile off of the concrete slab because my wife doesn't like the color :(
 
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I found out Lin-Manuel Miranda was 1 year behind me in college (wesleyan).

makes me wish i was less of a philistine in college and saw a play or two instead of whatever it was i did back then
Especially now that it may take years for the arts to recover. Who knows when we will be able to go see live theater again?
 

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Hey @Kal Rubinson, have you tried running your Studio2's with a Benchmark AHB2 not bridged? I wonder if you need the amount of power you have on tap. Of course I understand headroom, but I'm curious to know if you would ever see a clip LED flicker without using them in bridged mode.
I have thought about that a lot but I have not yet tried it. Probably soon, I will as I will be reviewing another stereo power amp.
 

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Happy New Year everyone! My phone tells me that I cut out the holes for my c763ls last New Years Day. It took forever to do by myself without the proper tools (i.e. laser, etc.), but I eventually got it done.
 

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I am into week two of attempting to get my height speakers installed. I need to do something like this every few years to remind myself I am not longer 20-something, no longer have infinite free time, and am better able to pay someone to do for me in a day instead of spending several weeks agonizing over things. Things like, 3'4" from the walls, or 3'6"? Or even 4'? What happens when the angles don't work out for the room, present base speaker locations, and MLP? I had to pull down four of my ceiling panels to place the heights, noticing how cleverly Dolby contrived to place the ideal height locations at the first reflection points on the ceiling (we'll see how this works out). Then having to modify the ceiling mounts for rattles (bad mechanical design), carefully measuring their positions and drilling holes for drywall screw anchors only to find there was a ceiling joist just a hair too close so I had to move them (after drilling three holes, natch), etc. And now I have two Crown XLi800 amps in boxes to power them wondering if they'll be too noisy, and discovering that despite Amazon saying they had trigger inputs they don't, so should I ship them back? Yeesh...

On the bright side, Dave at The Screening Room (home of @Rex Anderson and @John Schuermann) offered advice and got me a great deal on four M80XC speakers that are almost up... I have a spool of black-jacketed 14 AWG wire I need to figure out how best to route, and realized I need a couple more ceiling hooks someplace to hold the wire up until it reaches the wall... And I thought plumbing was bad! It has been too many years since I was doing these sort of installs for people and I had forgotten how much work it is when you are out of practice and don't have all the fancy tools and such.
 

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I am into week two of attempting to get my height speakers installed. I need to do something like this every few years to remind myself I am not longer 20-something, no longer have infinite free time, and am better able to pay someone to do for me in a day instead of spending several weeks agonizing over things. Things like, 3'4" from the walls, or 3'6"? Or even 4'? What happens when the angles don't work out for the room, present base speaker locations, and MLP? I had to pull down four of my ceiling panels to place the heights, noticing how cleverly Dolby contrived to place the ideal height locations at the first reflection points on the ceiling (we'll see how this works out). Then having to modify the ceiling mounts for rattles (bad mechanical design), carefully measuring their positions and drilling holes for drywall screw anchors only to find there was a ceiling joist just a hair too close so I had to move them (after drilling three holes, natch), etc. And now I have two Crown XLi800 amps in boxes to power them wondering if they'll be too noisy, and discovering that despite Amazon saying they had trigger inputs they don't, so should I ship them back? Yeesh...

On the bright side, Dave at The Screening Room (home of @Rex Anderson and @John Schuermann) offered advice and got me a great deal on four M80XC speakers that are almost up... I have a spool of black-jacketed 14 AWG wire I need to figure out how best to route, and realized I need a couple more ceiling hooks someplace to hold the wire up until it reaches the wall... And I thought plumbing was bad! It has been too many years since I was doing these sort of installs for people and I had forgotten how much work it is when you are out of practice and don't have all the fancy tools and such.
With the M80xc’s being quite a bit larger/heavier, not sure if this would work or not I f you are having with the mounts you purchased for the M80xc’s... but what I did was cut a small piece a 3/4” or 5/8” piece of plywood a bit larger than the stock included mounting plate of the M80xc. Locate on of the ceiling joists and use 2-3 heavy duty screws mounting the plywood to the ceiling and securing the plywood into a ceiling joist. Then mount the stock ceiling mount of the M80xc to the plywood. It is extremely secure. The stock mounts for the m55xc/M80xc are really well made and this worked out well for me. The M80xc is quite a bit larger/heavier but I would think mounting it in this manner would work as well. YMMV. By the way the M55xc makes a fantastic atmos speaker. I’m sure once it is all up it will sound amazing in your setup.
 

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With the M80xc’s being quite a bit larger/heavier, not sure if this would work or not I f you are having with the mounts you purchased for the M80xc’s... but what I did was cut a small piece a 3/4” or 5/8” piece of plywood a bit larger than the stock included mounting plate of the M80xc. Locate on of the ceiling joists and use 2-3 heavy duty screws mounting the plywood to the ceiling and securing the plywood into a ceiling joist. Then mount the stock ceiling mount of the M80xc to the plywood. It is extremely secure. The stock mounts for the m55xc/M80xc are really well made and this worked out well for me. The M80xc is quite a bit larger/heavier but I would think mounting it in this manner would work as well. YMMV. By the way the M55xc makes a fantastic atmos speaker. I’m sure once it is all up it will sound amazing in your setup.
That is a very good idea and one I have used myself in the past, with minor variations. Typically I would use a plate (plywood or whatever) large enough to span two joists and screw into both for extra support and stability.

I used a couple pairs of Pyle ceiling mounts: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZMCSXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are rated for 75 pounds, and the M80XC's are about 15 pounds, so plenty of margin.The inner mounting tube has a lot of play so I added friction tape and then drilled for a sheet-metal screw in each to prevent movement by the inner tube. They seem pretty decent otherwise. My original plans had them hanging below my panels so I needed to drop them down about 15". That was too much, and ideal placement was in the middle of the panels, so after a lot of angst I pulled the panels and put up the mounts.

Secured using four of these (pre-drill to make life easier! They did NOT like having to go through two layers of drywall.): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0845YKDHV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My media room has floating walls and ceiling (floor is concrete -- basement) so the studs and joists are metal runners with Kinetics IsoMax clips to support the two layers of drywall. I was just beside one of the runners but (my usual luck) happened to hit one of the clips. Relocated a couple of inches over and that worked fine, except for an extra hole I'll have to patch.

I went back and forth on the M55XC vs. M80XC as well as several other speakers. I wanted smaller size since the room is not large (13'3" W x 17'7" L x 8'5" H), but really wanted to be able to cross at 80 Hz due to LF content in overhead tracks (blame John; I went to his place to listen to some demos and talk about options). And of course most folk advised the larger speakers to better match the rest of the system. SCS 8's, M16's, M106's and Gem2's were also suggested but most were too big, too heavy, and/or too pricey for me to use as heights. In-ceilings would not work -- don't want big holes in the floating ceiling, and no reasonable way to get access to the back and run the wires. The M80XC's are larger than the M55XC, but not that larger (or heavier) than many other candidates, and smaller/lighter than some, so I finally decided to quit quibbling and just buy them. :)
 
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I'm new to Revel, there is not a massive following in the UK for the HT markert. I've ordered F208's, C208 and S16 surrounds, looking forward to getting them in a few days. I currently have a Anthem MRX-720, will this drive these ok for both multichannel and for two channel music too.

Anyone else running this set-up?
 

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75" Samsung Q80R QLED, Denon AVR3300, Revel F36, C25, W263, FV15HP x 2, ATV4K, Sony Blu Ray, Harmony
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I'm new to Revel, there is not a massive following in the UK for the HT markert. I've ordered F208's, C208 and S16 surrounds, looking forward to getting them in a few days. I currently have a Anthem MRX-720, will this drive these ok for both multichannel and for two channel music too.

Anyone else running this set-up?
Sounds like a great setup. What subs? Arendal may be worth a look if you don't have good subs...they will help a lot with movies and music if your AVR has good eq capability.
 

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75" Samsung Q80R QLED, Denon AVR3300, Revel F36, C25, W263, FV15HP x 2, ATV4K, Sony Blu Ray, Harmony
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I'm new to Revel, there is not a massive following in the UK for the HT market. I've ordered F208's, C208 and S16 surrounds, looking forward to getting them in a few days. I currently have a Anthem MRX-720, will this drive these ok for both multichannel and for two channel music too.

Anyone else running this set-up?
Good to know you can get them in the UK. It's hard to get many Revel models/finishes here now due to Covid disrupting the supply chain.

RE: driving them, the only thing you can do is try your MRX-720 to see if it has enough power for your setup. If not, you'll need an amp for the front LCR. Using subs and crossing over at 80 Hz helps a lot, i.e. you don't need as much power to drive the front LCR.
 
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