Revel Owners Thread
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Try it and see -- probably work fine. Try to avoid upgradeitus, that insidious, expensive, time-consuming audiophile hobby.
Which reminds me, finally got my M80XC's hung for height speakers hung and wires run to the front, but decided to ship the Crown amps I bought back (need to do that in the next week or two) and pick up a smaller, quieter class D four-channel amp instead so won't be able to hear them for another few weeks.
It was waaay more work than I anticipated, and I had to pull four of my ceiling panels to get the speakers in the right places, so the room is a little more "alive" than before. Also shifted the MLP a little so need to rerun the SDP-75's Optimizer, when I get some free time and interest (MLP moved forward just a little so it is not far off now).
Which reminds me, finally got my M80XC's hung for height speakers hung and wires run to the front, but decided to ship the Crown amps I bought back (need to do that in the next week or two) and pick up a smaller, quieter class D four-channel amp instead so won't be able to hear them for another few weeks.
It was waaay more work than I anticipated, and I had to pull four of my ceiling panels to get the speakers in the right places, so the room is a little more "alive" than before. Also shifted the MLP a little so need to rerun the SDP-75's Optimizer, when I get some free time and interest (MLP moved forward just a little so it is not far off now).
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Sit at the apex of an equilateral triangle with speakers toed in 30 degrees, i.e. aimed at your ears. That's how I have mine now and how I've done it since 1974 when I attended the Institute of Audio Research in New York to take the Audio Fundamentals course for recording engineers. In my surround system, the left speakers are aimed at my left ear, right speakers at my right ear for direct sound from each speaker. You can experiment with toe in angles and do what sounds best to you.
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What @Rex Anderson said. There are speakers that do sound better when not pointed directly at you, but most do, Revel among them.
For another perspective, I don't toe mine in at all. I didnt like the look of it ( ocd maybe? ) and I'm not the only listener in the room, so i didnt want to focus them on one spot. The great thing about the Revel's is their off-axis response. They still sound great!
If I was the only listener and I always listened from dead center, then I would toe them. I think the best is to experiment!I had mine slightly toed in then tried Rex’s suggestion. I also don’t like the look of the speakers toed in so much but the proof is in the sound. While revel is very flexible due to its wide dispersion, if you want the best 2 ch sound quality, Rex’s suggestion (that I’ve avoided off and on for as long as I can remember) is probably the best.
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I worked hard to learn audio including getting a degree in Audio Engineering. I learned a lot about stereo recording and playback because that was my profession (recording, mixing, mastering and live sound engineering). My job was primarily recording classical music and I used standard stereo recording techniques, many times just two microphones in an ORTF configuration. For stereo to work as intended, it is essential to follow the guidelines for setting up your playback system. Phantom center imaging is based on psychoacoustics, i.e how our ear/brain processes audio and how we localize sounds. We have two localization cues, time of arrival and amplitude. Stereo recording mic techniques require playback equipment to be set up properly for them to work as intended, i.e. creating a stereo image that accurately recreates the location of objects (instruments) in the soundfield being captured. Stereo is not able to recreate a three dimensional sound field. Immersive surround recording and playback is much more realistic. Think about the sonic experience of hearing an orchestra in a concert hall (something I did on a regular basis). You hear the direct sound of the instruments on stage in front of you and also all of the reflections off the walls and ceiling - you are immersed in the sound from all directions.
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Which class D are you getting? Let us know how it works out.Try it and see -- probably work fine. Try to avoid upgradeitus, that insidious, expensive, time-consuming audiophile hobby.
Which reminds me, finally got my M80XC's hung for height speakers hung and wires run to the front, but decided to ship the Crown amps I bought back (need to do that in the next week or two) and pick up a smaller, quieter class D four-channel amp instead so won't be able to hear them for another few weeks.
It was waaay more work than I anticipated, and I had to pull four of my ceiling panels to get the speakers in the right places, so the room is a little more "alive" than before. Also shifted the MLP a little so need to rerun the SDP-75's Optimizer, when I get some free time and interest (MLP moved forward just a little so it is not far off now).
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A four-channel NC252-based amp from a grad student putting them together.
Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!
UPDATED 1/11/2021 Neutrik speakON connector option now available! Official review by Amir Official teardown by Amir Hey all, Long-time A/V enthusiast with an extensive history on the AVS forums and more recently following this site for all the technical and objective expertise. After months...
www.audiosciencereview.com
Wanted something cheap but decent and these look pretty good. I don't need more power than the "little" module for the heights and the amp is pretty small so seems perfect for me. With my work hours I don't have time or energy to build it myself so figured I'd give him a shot. A number of people have them and are happy with them. I should have the amp early February.
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Does anyone if there are any c426be in the supply chain right now?
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DonH50,A four-channel NC252-based amp from a grad student putting them together.
Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!
UPDATED 1/11/2021 Neutrik speakON connector option now available! Official review by Amir Official teardown by Amir Hey all, Long-time A/V enthusiast with an extensive history on the AVS forums and more recently following this site for all the technical and objective expertise. After months...
Wanted something cheap but decent and these look pretty good. I don't need more power than the "little" module for the heights and the amp is pretty small so seems perfect for me. With my work hours I don't have time or energy to build it myself so figured I'd give him a shot. A number of people have them and are happy with them. I should have the amp early February.
I can't wait to hear your hands on report from this amp. I just happened upon it the other day on ASR and noticed you mentioned it here.
I have enjoyed reading your contributions on the forum and found them very informative.
Would you mind sharing your equipment list and how you are planning on integrating the buckeye amp?
more pics of your performe3Be's would be great also 🙃
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The amp is only going to power the heights so I probably won't have much to say about it, sorry. Expecting it will "just work".
In the past I have taken a new amp and used it to drive my L/R speakers for comparisons, but I simply don't have the time or interest this time. Maybe when I retire...Thank you! Glad you like my babblings.
There are pictures of my system (old Maggie and new Revel) someplace, probably earlier in this thread. I will post pictures when it is up and running, though the speaker setup is fixed so I could post some pix now. It has changed a bit since last I posted. My equipment list has also been posted but I'm far too lazy to try to find it (and need to get to work). Here is the current media room system IIRC:
65" LG OLED TV (dreaming of a 75" but put off for a while)
Comcast cable box (blah)
Oppo UDP-203 bluray/CD/SACD player
SONOS:Connect for streaming (using the optical connection; its DAC is not that great)
JBL Synthesis SDP-75 (Trinnov Altitude clone, 24-ch version)
Emotiva XPA-2 (L/R), XPA-5 (C/S/R) amplifiers (first gen)
Buckeye Amps 4-ch NC252 amp (on the way)
Base speakers = 6 x Revel Salon2, Voice2
Height speakers = 4 x Revel M80XC (not hooked up yet)
Subs = 4 x Rythmik F12
Room treatment from Ready Acoustics (kit panels with frames, in 4"/6" wall/ceiling and 12" corner versions)
Room is 13' 3" W x 17' 7" L x 8' 5" H, concrete floor, walls and ceiling double drywall floating on Kinetics IsoMax clips and rails, 8" ~ 12" Rockwool insulation in the walls and ceiling
Fujitsu minisplit for HVAC (no ducting to the rest of the house -- one of the biggest noise paths in or out of a room)
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Don't you mean 83"?
As I've said before, I honestly was concerned that 77" might be too big, but after living with it for half a year, I'd be content with a 100-110" TV.
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Unless you have goon to the cinema and complained about the screen size, then buy as big as fits your wall(et)Don't you mean 83"?
As I've said before, I honestly was concerned that 77" might be too big, but after living with it for half a year, I'd be content with a 100-110" TV.
- Rich
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In my room, around 75" is as big as will fit. I upgraded from an old 52" to the 65" a couple of years ago. The 65" is plenty large, but I keep lusting for those extra inches. The MLP is about 7' (84") away, so using the 1.5x diagonal (30 degree view) rule of thumb, 60" is about right. However, using the new "cinema" 40 degree rule, bumps that up to 70"~75". My sons are both planning to move this year, so that may be my impetus (justification, excuse) to hand down the 65" and upgrade, but I'm not in a hurry.
My original plans were for a larger room and a projector, but those gave way to more practical considerations. I do wish it could have been about a foot wider to better fit a three-person couch but cie la vie. The couch really needs to be my next "upgrade" but I can't decide what I want. A nice theater version with cupholders and all will really only fit two and I hate to give up my center sweet spot. I thought of a single front seat and pair behind, but the wife wants more seating (though she only goes down a few times a year). And man are the nice theater seats expensive! Cogitating...
I vacillated a long time about what heights to get, trading size vs. bass response vs. how/where to mount them. The optimal position per Dolby lined up exactly with first reflection points on the ceiling, where I had hung panels when we built the room. I finally said the heck with it, pulled down the panels, and got the speakers up over a couple of weekends of fussing and piddling. Then got cold feet on the amps I had bought and shipped them back in favor of the new NC252 amp on order.
For now I am excited to finally get heights going once I receive the amp and find time to fiddle with the processor. I bought the SDP-75 and planned to do it all last Thanksgiving. Instead, I had it almost six months before it came out of the box last February'ish, then my plans to add heights got sidetracked by work, covid, and other life events.
My original plans were for a larger room and a projector, but those gave way to more practical considerations. I do wish it could have been about a foot wider to better fit a three-person couch but cie la vie. The couch really needs to be my next "upgrade" but I can't decide what I want. A nice theater version with cupholders and all will really only fit two and I hate to give up my center sweet spot. I thought of a single front seat and pair behind, but the wife wants more seating (though she only goes down a few times a year). And man are the nice theater seats expensive! Cogitating...
I vacillated a long time about what heights to get, trading size vs. bass response vs. how/where to mount them. The optimal position per Dolby lined up exactly with first reflection points on the ceiling, where I had hung panels when we built the room. I finally said the heck with it, pulled down the panels, and got the speakers up over a couple of weekends of fussing and piddling. Then got cold feet on the amps I had bought and shipped them back in favor of the new NC252 amp on order.
For now I am excited to finally get heights going once I receive the amp and find time to fiddle with the processor. I bought the SDP-75 and planned to do it all last Thanksgiving. Instead, I had it almost six months before it came out of the box last February'ish, then my plans to add heights got sidetracked by work, covid, and other life events.
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Does anyone know the maximum degrees that the Revel W783 tweeter adjustment allows? I need 51 degrees for my rear surround, ideally. About 45 would do if it really had to.
Also, I need a stand for the C426Be. I read the Revel C stand fits, but it's 11" and I need 8.1". Could I cut down the vertical part? What is it made of?
Also, I need a stand for the C426Be. I read the Revel C stand fits, but it's 11" and I need 8.1". Could I cut down the vertical part? What is it made of?
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Revel C stand is great for C208 but not ideal for C426Be - the bolts don't line up. It's also $300 list price, I would not buy it to cut it down. I'm not sure what it's made of but it has the high end gloss finish. I would have something built, get a piece of furniture or something like this: VCC5 Style | Sound Anchors: Specialty Audio Stands | High-End Home,Professional Studio, and Video | Custom Amplifier Stands, Component Stands, Video Stands, Studio Furniture
I think all the Revel in ceiling adjustable tweeters only do 30 degrees. SCL-8 is coming out and does 60 degrees. List price is $1,000 each.
SCL-8 | 2-Way 5.25-inch (130mm) In-Ceiling Loudspeaker
The SCL-8 is the most compact round in-ceiling model in the JBL Synthesis Custom Loudspeaker (SCL) series. It is designed for deployment in high-performance immersive audio systems in small to medium size rooms. The SCL-8 features JBL’s patented 2410H-2 1-inch (25mm) compression driver mated to...
www.jblsynthesis.com
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