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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ridiculous 7.2.1 Atmos 8x12’ Shed - Single Seater Home Theater

(oops - had 9.2.1 in title. Should have read 7.2.1.)

We bought my mother-in-law’s house a few years back, and built a new “wing” for her to stay in, but I honestly can’t make significant changes in the main house in the foreseeable future for a real home theater. They've compromised and allowed me to put a 120” screen and projector and a 5.1 setup into one room. But the layout / fireplace is such that I can’t make the changes needed to properly sound proof and hence, can’t listen to anything at enjoyable volume. Even the meager 10” closed sub-woofer is too much, since my mother in law rarely leaves the house. I've basically given up and bought a set of these Sony 9.1 headphones / DAC that are decent, but not really what I want long term.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDRHW700DS-9-1-Channel-Wireless-Headphones/dp/B00J0XR10A

I’m refinancing the house next month to do a kitchen upgrade that my wife / mother in law have wanted to do for literally decades. I've negotiated a $10k AV budget for me to do “whatever the hell I want” outside the house. So here is my plan:

Since the “inside” home theater can seat 8-10 people for those special occasions when a group is over (Superbowl / kids sleep-overs), I’m going to build a theater / game room just for me with a 50/40/10 Gaming/Movie/Music usage projection.

Budget is roughly:
$2,700 shed – modified with double wall construction.
$2,000 9.2.1 Atmos AVR
$2,300 speakers
$1,800 60” 4k TV.
$700 tools. (New table saw, being the big piece)
$500 - reserved for Oppo 4k blu ray player, hopefully by end of 2015.

SHED:

I bought this 8x12 shed plan:

https://www.icreatables.com/sheds/8x12-GT-gable-tall-shed-plans.html

I plan to modify it a bit and build it just a couple feet from the side of the house. I’m going to insulate the ceiling with closed cell spray foam. Put pink stuff on the inside walls and drywall that. Then build another room within that room with double drywall on 5 sides. A couple feet between the two airlock doors will act as a mud room, and equipment room, to house the noisy PC and AMP. It will look something like this:

Theater Shed.jpg

A couple more views with wall removed to see inside better. Everything is to scale. The finished interior dimensions are 6'6" by 8'6". That TV shown measures ~45" diagonal. To go to the 60" TV I want, I'd need to build out the 10'x12' shed. The seat is 5' from the TV.

Shed Theater Sans Walls.jpg

Shed Theater Sans Walls 2.jpg

ELECTRICAL:
Electrical is a challenge, perhaps my biggest uncertainty. The house has a 200 amp panel that is fully wired out, with no open breakers. The proper way to do this would be to pay roughly $6,000 to have an electrician upgrade us to a 300 amp panel and run a 100 amp satellite breaker box out to the exterior building. Since I don’t have that budget, I’m planning on running two heavy duty extension cords from two exterior wall sockets that already exist, that are on two different breakers. I really think this will work since one extension cord would be dedicated to powering the AVR and LCD TV. The other would be powering an I-nuke 3000-DSP amp, a couple of dimmable LED rope lights, and one of the following: a high end PC, a Blu-Ray player, or a gaming console.

VENTILATION:
If I was building something bigger or further from the house I would want a dedicated heat pump conditioning it. But as it is only a few hundred cubic feet of space, I’m going to cut a couple holes into the side attic of the house and run two 6” PVC pipes from the house to the shed. I’ll connect that to flex duct inside the shed and inside the house, and add in two “always on” low flow Fantech inline duct fans into my attic, and push/pull already conditioned house air into the shed, with supply and return register in a soffit along each long side of the shed. Essentially running a long recirc loop.

AVR:
Everything I list here is subject to change, as I won’t be purchasing for a few months, but top of my current list is the Denon AVR X5200W. I’d like to future proof as much as possible, so looking for something that will support HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2 and the bandwith to support 4k @ 60fps for PC gaming. (I already have the PC capable of pushing 4k pixels.)

http://www.audioholics.com/av-receiver-reviews/denon-avr-x5200w

TV:
Again, looking to future proof. My top TV is now the 60” newest Sharp TV with HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2 on all 4 HDMI inputs, the newer HEVC/H.265 decoder, and 10-bit color depth.
http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/HomeEntertainment/LCDTV/Models/LC60UD27U.aspx

SPEAKERS.
Since it is extreme near field listening, I’m going with coaxial speakers. The DIY Soundgroup’s newer Volt-10 LX speakers are about $200 a piece to build out. Seven all around + two Atmos ceiling speakers, all toed in precisely to my ear holes. They are 14x14" with an angled baffle plate. 5" on bottom depth, 10" on top.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/coaxial-speaker-kits/volt-10lxe.html

SUB:
The Full Marty, with a Stereo Integrity 18” driver. I’m going to modify the build to use 4x4s for the frame, and then mount the seat directly to it, to give a little rumble to the seat. I have a Buttkicker amp and transducer already, but don’t think I’ll need it in the shed. I’ll keep that in the main house where I don’t have much bass to work with.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1648673-martysub-faq.html

AMP:
Behringer I-nuke 3000 DSP.

http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/NU3000DSP.aspx

SOUND TREATMENT.
I’ve always loved the look of these fabric frames from this old 2004 build, and plan to do something like this all the way around. I don’t have a lot of wall space, so it won’t be that expensive. I plan on making larger panels to simplify.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/487747-fabric-frames.html

Should have everything in place to start building in May/June. Looking for thoughts to improve it.

Thanks,
-Chris-
 

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I'm not in any way an expert, but I don't think that the room will sufficiently isolate the bass from the house; you should definitely make sure you understand what level of isolation you can achieve since it sounds as though that is your main purpose for this.

Second, I'd suggest a wider shed that would allow for a couch so that you can have a one or two friends join you.

Third, I'm in the Portland area, will be curios to see how this turns out -- my modest theater is in a 10x12 room.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not in any way an expert, but I don't think that the room will sufficiently isolate the bass from the house.
It's a double walled structure, with double dryall and Green Glue on the interior wall, and a double, solid door - airlock system, and dead vent in the attic of the house. Apologies for not mentioning that in the main post. I have given considerable thought to sound proofing, but know that low bass is going to be hard to isolate. Of benefit is that my mother-in-law's room is on the opposite side of the house, and that is the main consideration for sound isolation. I'm considering a Serenity Mat for the floor, but it isn't in my budget as of now.

I've hit the main points of of soundproofing:

Decoupling - by using double walls.
Mass - by using 3 layers of drywall (1 exterior wall, 2 interior wall.)
Damping - with Green Glue.
Absorption - Using fiberglass insulation on the exterior wall.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I was looking at the Volt 6's because they make a little more sense for that space. But the difference in cost is only $40 per speaker. So, what the heck, lets just go with the 10s.

I worked up a Sketch-up with a quick hack to make it a 10x12 shed, instead of an 8x12. It is only a few hundred more in materials, so I'll probably go that way. Things just fit better. I was able to increase the TV size to 60" in that space and still fit the speakers between the TV and the wall that way.

I'm also limited in height. the center speaker above the TV only has 1/2" clearance to the ventilation soffit, so I can't move the TV any higher. So I have to either move the Sub-woofer from under the seat to below the TV, or make the sub-woofer a little squatter. I've shortened its height and widened it to compensate in the Sketch-up as far as I can and still keep the 18" driver.

10x12 v1.jpg

10x12 v2.jpg

10x12 v3.jpg
 

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Why the 18" sub? I'd go with multiple small sealed subs.[/quote]
This was exactly what I was going to do, I even bought the plans from the same place for the same shed! But we ended up selling the house and the plan stalled for now. I was going to have a smaller sofa in there for at least 2 people though. The issue that kept popping into my head was soundproofing, but it can be done.....Good work, can't wait to see the results!
 

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So you're basically building the ultimate driving game simulator? Your design looks like you've got a racing seat on rails with pedals and a wheel setup in front of you. If so.. this is new the coolest build on this website.

If I'm right about this really being a driving simulator rather than a movie theater..
- Bass Shakers (transducers) built into the seat are an absolute must!
- Have you done any research on full motion kits.. www.simexperience.com I think they run about $2500.. but make for a whole new experience in driving games.


Your first post said 50% movies and 40% gaming.. Seems like you'd be better off with a larger space with at least a 2 person couch. I don't think I would be comfortable in a racing seat for movies.. unless I'm reading too much into your sketchup diagrams.
 

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It's "technically" a 7.1.2, not a 7.2.1 setup. I was confused for a second thinking you were going to use 1 atmos speaker. Anyway look forward to see how this bad boy turns out!! Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Why the 18" sub? I'd go with multiple small sealed subs.

This was exactly what I was going to do, I even bought the plans from the same place for the same shed! But we ended up selling the house and the plan stalled for now. I was going to have a smaller sofa in there for at least 2 people though. The issue that kept popping into my head was soundproofing, but it can be done.....Good work, can't wait to see the results!
I wanted a ported 18" to reach low base. The full Marty is tuned @ 17Hz.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So you're basically building the ultimate driving game simulator? Your design looks like you've got a racing seat on rails with pedals and a wheel setup in front of you. If so.. this is new the coolest build on this website.

If I'm right about this really being a driving simulator rather than a movie theater..
- Bass Shakers (transducers) built into the seat are an absolute must!
- Have you done any research on full motion kits.. www.simexperience.com I think they run about $2500.. but make for a whole new experience in driving games.


Your first post said 50% movies and 40% gaming.. Seems like you'd be better off with a larger space with at least a 2 person couch. I don't think I would be comfortable in a racing seat for movies.. unless I'm reading too much into your sketchup diagrams.
I'm a gamer. I'm making this room "single occupancy" to optimize it for PC gaming, with a ~60" TV about 3ft away.

I'm going to build a seat / stand that allows me to swap out the racing wheel with a keyboard / mouse. I've looked at several designs, and haven't decided the best way. I've looked at commercial seats from OpenWheeler, to aftermarket car seats from Corbeau, to even building out something like this crazy thing, and upholstering it. (I'd make it much cooler and might put the subwoofer in the base of it):

DIY-Computer-Chair.jpg

I do have a 110" screen and a very low end 5.1 system in the house now for watching movies in the home with the family. Its good enough for 90% of the population as is.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
March update: Still waiting on the county to finalize the property line before I can refinance (neighbor bought house next door and we needed to make formal a handshake agreement my father in-law made decades ago with the old neighbor, who built a storage shed on our side.)

Hoping to move forward as soon as that goes through.
 

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So as long as you are doing this - have you considered multiple screens for pc games with multiple views? Great for flight sims, driving, etc.
 
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