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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally managed to make a rigid torus out of a plastic sheet screwed into a bent copper tube frame. I am happy with the initial results as it definitely pops the image from my XG out nicely as well as rejecting ambient light better. It is now about 8 inches deep and I may go a bit deeper.

My question though for anyone who has played around with a rigid torus and a CRT PJ is....Whats the best paint to compliment CRT in a rigid torus

I was going to go with the behr ultra-white semi-gloss or maybe full gloss....

Anyone have any thoughts or experience,...



Steve
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0homerj0 /forum/post/0


So I finally managed to make a rigid torus out of a plastic sheet screwed into a bent copper tube frame. I am happy with the initial results as it definitely pops the image from my XG out nicely as well as rejecting ambient light better. It is now about 8 inches deep and I may go a bit deeper.

My question though for anyone who has played around with a rigid torus and a CRT PJ is....Whats the best paint to compliment CRT in a rigid torus

I was going to go with the behr ultra-white semi-gloss or maybe full gloss....

Anyone have any thoughts or experience,...



Steve

You have to go with a paint that has a gain to it. The paints you mention are probably unity gain. Since the veiwing cone for these paints is 180 degress, the image will be washed out due to the screen reflecting on itself.


Aluminum paint such as that made by Tremclad is very high gain. It does sparkle a bit though. That paint plus something to get rid of the sparkles would be great for that purpose.
 

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Any chance for some pictures or plans of your rigid design?


Josh
 

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Tryg has reviewed paints as well as various materials and retail products and the most promising paint in his tests was simple rattle can Rust-Oleum Alumininum (Not silver, not metallic silver, just aluminum) Part number is in his thread.

Find his threads with screenshots and all in the DIY screens forum.


I'm about to try it myself as soon as I make it to a store that has it and figure out how to recreate proper application temperatures since it's too cold and wet right now here.


Application should be sprayed from a distance much greater than normal preferrably in hot or at least warm conditions where the paint is half dry before it hits the surface so you don't get uneven coverage or streaks or runs. You want several light coats and no cheating. Triple or more the distance it says to spray from on the can.


Gain will be that of the silverstar or better and if properly applied in a dusting fashion there should be no visible imperfections and it should look flat not glossy with a lightly dusted micro fine texture.


As was said previously white paint is wrong for a torus, makes the whole exercise pointless. Your end result will be a high gain screen with no hotspotting and a slightly extended viewing cone due to the dusting texture. Your tubes will thank you.


Troy
 

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btw 8" is pretty extreme, you could do fine with half that but what's done is done I guess. You may have focus problems with that much curve depending on which lenses you have.


Gloss and semi gloss are wrong too, only flat will do.


Troy
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0homerj0 /forum/post/0


So I finally managed to make a rigid torus out of a plastic sheet screwed into a bent copper tube frame. I am happy with the initial results as it definitely pops the image from my XG out nicely as well as rejecting ambient light better. It is now about 8 inches deep and I may go a bit deeper.

My question though for anyone who has played around with a rigid torus and a CRT PJ is....Whats the best paint to compliment CRT in a rigid torus

I was going to go with the behr ultra-white semi-gloss or maybe full gloss....

Anyone have any thoughts or experience,...



Steve

Steve,


Sounds awesome
Post those pics. Good to see you are still getting enjoyment out of your gear.


Ken./
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Semi.....sparkles eh.. hmmmm maybe that paint with a matt overcoat....


Josh.... I ll try and take some pics later, but i kept it pretty simple... 4x8 sheet of .060 inch white plastic sheet then i bent my half inch copper tubes 6 inches deep for the top and bottom and 3 inches deep for the sides then after predrilling the tubing and screen perimeter i screwed my nuts and bolts in (i used good sized washers on both sides of the screen) The plastic sheet took pretty good shape once all 4 tubes were screwed in ....i do have a bit of a flat spot in the middle , but i am not done tweaking the bends yet as well running a 16:9 screen i am limited to an image size i can fit within the 4x8 sheet...


Troy.... i suck at spray painting but i may give that a go.....I am surprised that an aluminummy grey is the way to go (always thought that was reserved for the digitals to increase contrast) but I will stay away from the gloss..... i guess gloss produces Glare and not the Gain i was thinking...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Ken! how are ya,.,.. yes it is amazing how much use i have gotten out of the XG with toasty tubes... I can only imagine how good yurs would look with a torus! I will try and get some pics in tonight.... and BTW I have been fiddling with the marquee a bunch too but I still have to do the vertical squeeze mod on it .... otherwise i would be using it right now because the tubes are in much better shape ;
 

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Since VDC has white Torus screens, I am not entirely sure about washout. Having said that, the whole point of a Torus is to get higher gain. You might want to get some aluminized mylar and coat it with a clear low gloss paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ericglo.... I remember seeing pics you took of your VDC tour and it was seeing all those wacky white rigid torus screens which gave me the boost to experiment further! The stock white plastic did not seem to washout for what it is worth.


Troy...I was just reading the extensive Tryg post on screen mediums very informative and can be found here for others... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=240074 i think i am going to try some silver or alluminum spray paint and see how that goes.... the beauty of a rigid screen is that i can always just paint over it if i don t like it!
 

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Steve,


You won't find Rust-Oleum in Canada. The Tremlad Aluminum I mentioned is the exact same stuff. It's not a grey - it actually has aluminum in it. It's not a colour you have to have mixed. They will haved cnas of it at HD or Rona...


Troy,


Great advice on the application technique. If that does cut out the sparklies, it would really make a great high gain surface. I did some tests with it quite a while ago. Other than the narrow veiwing cone and the sparklies it was very promising.



James
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK my camera sucks bad but here are a few pics of the screen .... i'm going to hang it proper and redo PJ setup later and then i'll take some screenshots...


as far as the paint goes i have to do more reading and see if there is an aluminum paint in a can for roll on application because my spray skills are sketchy...

 

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"the beauty of a rigid screen is that i can always just paint over it if i don t like it"


Imperfections will show through as waves or bumps or uneven gain. Grey is wrong for crt you're right, but this isn't grey flat paint that is less than 1 gain this is like using a silverstar ~ 6 gain but with the benefit of ambient light rejection and increased contrast .


Try painting scrap stuff if you aren't sure you have a suitable paint. Then when you find the right paint and application method go to your final project. The gain will make it show imperfections more than flat white would and it would be a shame to ruin a smooth surface.


I'd still stick with aluminum even if you have to try another brand, not silver.


Troy
 

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At some point I'm going to repaint my screen, it's real close to invisable, but I want it better, most of the problem I have had with it was the seam (2-4X12 pieces of drywall), it has to be perfect. I also have a idea for a better brush. The brush I used before was as tall as the screen was, had a foam edge to it, worked real good. The new brush should have a better edge. I may even have a professional spray it to see how good they can do.


That Rustoleum paint shows any tiny imperfection.


Deron.
 

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Just a few tips from a professional finisher....

then a question or two.


First, I wouldn't suggest using a brush of any kind as you are not going to achieve an invisible screen "guarranteed". You will always have compromises. I am going to experiment with the aluminium paint to see how it works for me. I will also talk to my supplier to see what may be available in commercial lines that may not be readily available on the retail shelf. If I come up with something superior I will share it with you.


Second, I notice that you are tryng to create a full torus screen, in other words bending it both horizontally and vertically. Without being able to stretch the material there is no way to create a screen that will not show warpage. In one of the puctures you can see the shadow created by the uneven shape. This will show up in the picture.


I am interested in building a torus screen for myself and my daughter but I will not attempt to bend the screen in two directions. You would need either a giant vacuam former or shape one out of a mouldable material, very dificult indeed. I would take the verticle pipes off and replace them with straight ones.

Third, the material you use can help to make the finishing much easier. If you intend to make a flat screen you can either make a screen from ridgid material or even make one from fabric and then paint it. Yes you can paint fabric and make it look very good. Start with the best quality blackout material as you can find. Build your screen and then spray it just as you would a ridgid material. I have even sprayed interior padded vynil in a show car. I added a flex agent to the paint and you would never even know it had been painted. It looked and felt like factory. It is flexible and soft but very durable. I would also suggest to purchase an inexpensive HVLP gun to do the spraying, that way you can set the gun to create a nice wide spray pattern and regulate the fluid fow and success will be much easier to attain.

For both torus and flat rigid screen, I would highly recommend using MDF. This is a rigid board that is very flat and can be painted to look like glass. For a torus, I would build a basic frame then screw the MDF into it from the front along the edges starting in the middle. I would use 3/8 or 1/4 for a torus but if it is flat you can use 3/4 inch and you don't even have to build a frame. Just remember to paint the back side too or it will warp. For those of you who have larger screens you can buy MDF in over size sheets. For about 60.00 canadian you can buy a 5 by 9 foot sheet. In some areas you can even buy 10 foot long sheets. These will have to be ordered though. I suggest that you prime the MDF with something like Kilz, then sand it to a silky smooth finish with 320 grit paper. Now you are ready for your white base coat. With the right material and practise you can spray a screen that will look very nice and be almost invisible. remember to thin your paint to the point that when you raise the stir stick out of the paint, you see the liquid dropping off the stick nearly in rapid drops and not running like honey. This will ensure that the finish will not have orange peel and will settle nice and flat.

I hope some of this info. will help

I will keep you all posted as I begin to build my screens with pics and proceedure.
 

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Looking forward to your results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ya the trick with the plastic seems to be bending it enough in both directions so that it 'pops' out in the middle nicely. I have to bend it a bit more than in the pics above to get it to 'POP'. I know in the end it won't be near as nice as a 'true' high gain fabric vacuum style torus but I'm not too concerned about that...I'm just playing around and was bored with the flat screens.

I sprayed a flat piece of plastic with tremclad aluminum paint yesterday for fun and I can say without a doubt it would need some sort of extra coat of clear flat paint to get rid of hotspotting and color shifting. Because I want this up and running for the superbowl I'm going to work on getting the bends satisfactory and then painting it a nice ultra white. Even though I'm not getting all the benefits of a high gain torus I like the look of the curved screen and the image it produces. I'll throw some screenshots up once I get it mounted again so ya'll can see what a matte white curved plastic screen looks like with my toasty XG!
 

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Larry the reason I went with the brush as big as the screen is tall is, because it got me the closest I could get to a invisible screen. There are a few flaws because the seam is not perfect, that's what happens when you can not come up with a complete sheet of material that is 7'X12". I'm the only one that can see the flaws and that is only when there is a uniform image of the same color. This screen looks better then some of the manufacturer's screens. I came about the brush idea because I could not get a more uniform finish trying everything else. Now if I had someone that sparyed show cars for a living, then I probably get a super finish. I may try hiring a professional, but for us DIY'ers spraying a suface as big as our screens with a 4+ gain paint that shows off any (and I mean any) variation, a perfect screen is just not going to happen.


Deron.
 
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