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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
"The Rinker Cinema".


Room Size: 10' - 4" X 23'


Projector: Panasonic PT-AE900U


Approach: Everything within the theather will be DIY on a very low budget. I intend to do 100% of the work myself to reduce costs.


Deadline: It's done when it's done.
 

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Looks like it ought to be a fun project. Have fun while you learn, and keep those pictures coming!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tonight I started construction of The Rinker Cinema by removing the paneling and trim from the walls. As you can see I discovered mildew, bee hives, old insulation and wiring.












I plan on applying Drylock to the walls this weekend for water proofing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What do you guys think about me keeping up the 2x2 framing and building new 2x4 framing in front to create a room within a room? I guess I could then place R13 insulation on the back between the 2X2's and R16 insulation in front between the 2x4's.


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I think I would worry about the bees first - thats not a problem you want happening again.


How many layers of Drywall are you considering? Adding the extra 2x4 is going to cause the room to shrink up a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
After removing the bee hive, I plan on using two coats of Drylock on the walls to help waterproof them. Then I will use window & trim spray insulation around the window where the hives existed. I will also check outside and use some sort of concrete patch if needed.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SatelliteGuy /forum/post/0


What do you guys think about me keeping up the 2x2 framing and building new 2x4 framing in front to create a room within a room? I guess I could then place R13 insulation on the back between the 2X2's and R16 insulation in front between the 2x4's.


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


I have the same size room as you (maybe a bit wider). I would try not to narrow the room any more than it already is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
RobZ,


Where did you buy your Zuniga Family Cinema sign? I would like to get one just like it for our hallway leading into the theater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I take it I should think about tearing out the 2x2's, applying the Drylock and then frame using 2x4's and R16 insulation. This would not only waterproof the entire block wall, it would also allow more space within the theater since I am already limited in space.


I guess I'll sleep on it and make a final decision tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have made my final decision. I am going to remove all the old 2x2's and then apply Drylock to the entire wall before reframing using 2x4's. If I am going to do it, I should do it right without cutting corners.


It's going to be a busy weekend.
I will post new pictures Sunday night of my progress.
 

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"If I am going to do it, I should do it right without cutting corners."


Yep. You will forever regret it if you cheat now. I learned the hard way (more than once). While I have concluded projects with acceptable results after cutting corners, it was always in the back of my mind that I gave less than 100%. It is exceptionally bothersome if you cut corners on a project of love like home theater construction. I can hear my grandfather's voice now saying "Do it right the first time or don't do it all."
 

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Good call on removing the 2x2's. Also make sure you are not dealing with any drainage issues outside. Are the gutters truely taking the water away from the house? Is the ground sloping away for the wall, etc? I would build the new wall an inch or so off of the concrete to create a gap so the insulation does not touch the wall. Once insulation gets wet it takes forever to dry out and is fertile ground for mold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Saturday - January 20, 2007


Removed all the old 2X2's as well as the ceiling and carpet.


Removed old insulation:





I also discovered where the bees came in. I will be filling these gaps with Great Stuff big gap filler.



Removed drywall from ceiling:







Removed rug and tiles:






 

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Very interesting thread. This will be a cool renovation.
 

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Looks like a lot of work just to get the room to a good starting point. But, you are doing it right!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
At first, I was going to keep the 2x2's and the ceiling intact in order to save time and money. However, members on this forum and my wife
convinced me to not cut corners and to do the job right. It may take me additional time, but it will all be worth it in the end.


After I started removing the 2x2's and ceiling today, I was so happy I did. This is an example of what I found behind the 2x2's that would have remained if I had left them intact.



Now I have some questions for the experts here on this forum about things that will be coming up.


1) mbgonzomd recommended that I have an inch space between the concrete wall and my framing, so that the insulation does not mildew. Would doing so also improve the sound quality of the theater and not allow it to be heard outside and in other rooms? I guess I could build my framing on all three walls that have the concrete block an inch away and create a room within a room. Except for the fourth wall that is the interior wall with the entrance door to the theater.


2) I am planning on installing DRI CORE subfloor panels on the floor prior to laying down carpet padding. Should I cover the entire floor using the DRI CORE subfloor panels or only between the stage and riser? I was thinking why lay them down under the riser and stage. Or am I just trying to cut corners again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sunday - January 21, 2007


I removed the remaining carpet from the theater as well as the floor tiles that were underneath. I also removed more of the drywall from the ceiling and along the soffit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
After reading some other threads today, I decided to cover the entire floor with the DriCore product and keep an inch between the block wall and the new framing.
 
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