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Riser and Stage Lip Rounding

1635 Views 9 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Stew4msu
My carpet guys strongly recommend a rounded edge. My lip is 1.5".


How have those of you have finished your stage and/or risers gone about this?


I dropped by Lowes last night and they didn't carry any rounded molding with 2" height (2 3/4" + 1 1/2" plywood).


Would using 2 quarter rounds provide a sufficiently strong edge?


One idea we came up with cutting down 3.5" bullnose trim to a 2" height.
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So your carpet guy says use rounded Wooden edge? we just wrapped the carpet around the lip which gives a good rounded carpet edge.
I used use two pieces of quarter round to make half round. I used construction adhesive and brads to hold it in plan. It comes in different widths, but HD or Lowes may not have the size you need. You can get it from a local moulding shop, worst case. If you have any rounded pieces you need edged, Lowes carrys flexible quarter round as well.


Bud
Quote:
Originally Posted by McCall
So your carpet guy says use rounded Wooden edge? we just wrapped the carpet around the lip which gives a good rounded carpet edge.
Yes they recommended that the lip be rounded.
I just took a Sears router with a quarter round bit and went around the entire top edge. Worked great, just have to be careful.
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Originally Posted by dllewel
I just took a Sears router with a quarter round bit and went around the entire top edge. Worked great, just have to be careful.
That works great if you have an overhang. In my case I didn't, so I added it. I'd route it definitely now. i just didn't want to deal with it at the time. I only went with one layer of 3/4 ply too. You need at least two really to leave a lip and route it.


Bud
My stage will have a 1.5" overhang. The platform top will be 2" thick (3/4", 1/2", 3/4").


Never used a router before but that would probably leave a stronger edge in my case than trying to attach molding perpendicular to plywood face.
You could make your bullnose a little taller if you want to use something like 3" half round. That especially works great if you want to add rope lighting under the bullnose. Add some plywood strips to the bottom of the overhang to make it taller and leave a gap for the rope lighting in the back next to the vertical face of the riser. The carpet guy can get a nice round edge to carpet over and leave that little gap open. When you add your rope lights, it has a groove to go in, is hidden from plain sight, and only casts light down toward the floor.
I cut my plywood and underlayment board flush with the stage and riser, then ripped 2x4s about an inch, then ripped a top and bottom 45 degree cut along the front edge...put a 1 inch furring strip behind...construction adhesive, 3 1/2" wood screws through the top angle (careful not to screw through remaining channel space). Turned out great carpetwise, and allows you to step on edge without worrying about weight, and gives the perfect amount of space to place rope unobtrusively (can see the light effect without seeing the rope light itself.)


It also ended up leaving about an inch on the underside into which the carpet could be stapled/tacked.


Hope this helps.


Kent
My HD had some bullnosed shelving that was 3/4" (and 12" deep). I just stopped the plywood on the 3/4" layer 11.5" short of the edge and then put down the bullnosed shelving, creating a nice 1.5" overhang w/bullnose.

http://www.kellystewart.net/albums/a...r_bullnose.jpg
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