Roofing felt, fiberglass batt,
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Riser build...few questions
I've read a number of riser build threads and have seen a lot of ideas ranging from your typical riser, to making the riser an infinite baffle sub, to making it a bass absorber, etc. I think I'm generally going for a straight up riser.
Generally, here is my situation:
Room size 25x15x9 built on concrete basement slab
Back riser will actually be a full platform for the back of the room about 11' deep and 15' wide. (Back row will be 4-5' from the back wall) Plan on building riser after the drywall is installed and making it about 1/2' short on each side so it is decoupled from the walls
Riser height planned to be about 15", so planning on 2 7.5" steps with about a 28" aisle on each side of a row of 4 theater seats
So, few questions:
1. I've read I will need an underlayment for the floor. Suggestions?
2. How deep of insulation should I put in and what type?
3. Is it worth extending a shorter 'riser' all the way to the front of say a few inches height to help with tactile bass response? I'd rather not have to step up when entering the theater proper and lumber costs are pretty high right now, although if it is worth it I certainly can do it financially. Subs are 2x PSA TV2112's. Alternative plan could include building a HoverBOSS instead. (kind of lean towards the BOSS)
4. I've seen a couple of suggestions on what to put on the riser...MDF, double plywood, etc...any suggestions?
I am probably missing some ideas or questions so feel free to add other things I should consider. Thanks!
Darin
Generally, here is my situation:
Room size 25x15x9 built on concrete basement slab
Back riser will actually be a full platform for the back of the room about 11' deep and 15' wide. (Back row will be 4-5' from the back wall) Plan on building riser after the drywall is installed and making it about 1/2' short on each side so it is decoupled from the walls
Riser height planned to be about 15", so planning on 2 7.5" steps with about a 28" aisle on each side of a row of 4 theater seats
So, few questions:
1. I've read I will need an underlayment for the floor. Suggestions?
2. How deep of insulation should I put in and what type?
3. Is it worth extending a shorter 'riser' all the way to the front of say a few inches height to help with tactile bass response? I'd rather not have to step up when entering the theater proper and lumber costs are pretty high right now, although if it is worth it I certainly can do it financially. Subs are 2x PSA TV2112's. Alternative plan could include building a HoverBOSS instead. (kind of lean towards the BOSS)
4. I've seen a couple of suggestions on what to put on the riser...MDF, double plywood, etc...any suggestions?
I am probably missing some ideas or questions so feel free to add other things I should consider. Thanks!
Darin
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Need to decouple riser from slab? On insulation...just one layer or fill up whole thing?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you are not adding a source of vibration to the riser there is no need to decouple the riser frame from the concrete other than the roofing felt. If you were adding Buttkickers you could build the frame on rubber Uboats. The felt allows you to use regular lumber instead of PT since the wood will be in contact with the concrete. It also keeps moisture out of the insulation
There is diminishing returns of filling up the last 30 percent of the riser if you are not using it as part of your resonant frequency bass management plan, frankly you probably should with the size you are planning it can make a difference. So in your case of not doing that just get the thickest fiberglass batts you can find and do one layer
Multiple layers of decking with ether Green Glue or roofing felt between layers is al about keeping the deck quiet when you walk on it, I normally do 2 layers of 3/4 OSB or Plywood. Some pro plans I’ve built had 3 for a total of 2 inches,
There is diminishing returns of filling up the last 30 percent of the riser if you are not using it as part of your resonant frequency bass management plan, frankly you probably should with the size you are planning it can make a difference. So in your case of not doing that just get the thickest fiberglass batts you can find and do one layer
Multiple layers of decking with ether Green Glue or roofing felt between layers is al about keeping the deck quiet when you walk on it, I normally do 2 layers of 3/4 OSB or Plywood. Some pro plans I’ve built had 3 for a total of 2 inches,
@BIGmouthinDC I have seen you recommend this method several times, and also placing the riser on top of a (decoupled??) sub floor on top of the slab (layer of rubber followed by layer of plywood). I think you have mentioned horse mat for the rubber layer. Can you comment on the benefits of that subfloor (improved sound isolation? better audio acoustics?). Might be something for the OP to consider.If you are not adding a source of vibration to the riser there is no need to decouple the riser frame from the concrete other than the roofing felt. If you were adding Buttkickers you could build the frame on rubber Uboats. The felt allows you to use regular lumber instead of PT since the wood will be in contact with the concrete. It also keeps moisture out of the insulation
There is diminishing returns of filling up the last 30 percent of the riser if you are not using it as part of your resonant frequency bass management plan, frankly you probably should with the size you are planning it can make a difference. So in your case of not doing that just get the thickest fiberglass batts you can find and do one layer
Multiple layers of decking with ether Green Glue or roofing felt between layers is al about keeping the deck quiet when you walk on it, I normally do 2 layers of 3/4 OSB or Plywood. Some pro plans I’ve built had 3 for a total of 2 inches,
I am happy to consider making this big riser part of a Hemholtz resonator if that is what you are speaking of. My only concern is that although I have read some stuff, it sounded like you pretty much needed to know what you're doing to make sure you are getting the correct frequencies. If there are some general recommendations, I am all in for considering this.if you are not using it as part of your resonant frequency bass management plan
My mentors and respected designers do not consider the riser as a helmholtz resonator, you would add about 5.2 sq ft of openings along the back and side walls. Four 4x48 vents at the room boundaries on the top deck. Fill the riser with pink fluffy.
Something like this? How does the 5.2ft^2 openings relate to these vents which add up to much more square footage? I feel like I am maybe misunderstanding something. Also, should these vents be more situated in the rear corner of the room for the one in the back or just somewhere like pictured?
Also, vent something like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Accord-Ven...ZPN27a4UDbW__ZrW5rhoC_AoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Isn’t a 4x48 inch vent 1.3 sq ft?
Ha! My math sucks lol. Do i have the positioning correct on my sketch?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yes, yes this is my source of vents pretty much any size is available if 48 doesn't fit. HVACQuick - Dayus DABL and DABLD Bar Linear Grilles - Made to Order
If using the Riser as bass absorber you want to frame it as one connected air space. Here is one way, gap under each joist.
![Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor Stairs]()
If using the Riser as bass absorber you want to frame it as one connected air space. Here is one way, gap under each joist.
Not to hijack the thread, but my riser will be very similar. Is there a formula for different size vent sq ft for different cu ft risers? Mine will be about 15’ x 6’ x 12”
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Thanks for the link. A few questions as I get ready to order:yes, yes this is my source of vents pretty much any size is available if 48 doesn't fit. HVACQuick - Dayus DABL and DABLD Bar Linear Grilles - Made to Order
If using the Riser as bass absorber you want to frame it as one connected air space. Here is one way, gap under each joist.
View attachment 3135822
Under "core", choosing Standard?
Under "mounting", choosing spring clips or concealed for floor mounting?
Blade options...0 degree?
Standard, I order the the screw attachment method and set them in place without the screws, gravity takes care of the rest.
blade 0 degree
If you stick with 4 inch wide you do not need the floor option as your feet span the grill and don't exert much pressure.
blade 0 degree
If you stick with 4 inch wide you do not need the floor option as your feet span the grill and don't exert much pressure.
My $.02, in my township (Michigan) my inspector requires either pressure treated lumber (very expensive) or just put some 6 mill via queen between the cement floor and your untreated lumber: HUSKY 20 ft. x 50 ft. Clear 6 mil Plastic Sheeting-CF0620-50C - The Home Depot
You probably want to call or visit your local inspectors office to see what they recommend in your area.
I’m not sure what the roofing material is supposed to do. Maybe prevent the sound of small dirt from making a noise?
This guy just posted his riser build I bet you could DM him for advice: https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/comments/nj4g8p
You probably want to call or visit your local inspectors office to see what they recommend in your area.
I’m not sure what the roofing material is supposed to do. Maybe prevent the sound of small dirt from making a noise?
This guy just posted his riser build I bet you could DM him for advice: https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/comments/nj4g8p
roofing felt is water proof, similar to the plastic sheeting.
Thanks for the specifics. Looks like total cost is a little over $100/grate. Doing this will pretty much take care of my bass management, correct? (I am doing your recommended linacoustic/3mil/linacoustic behind the screen wall too and then go from there as far as other absorption/diffusion). If so, I am guessing this will be at least as good or possibly superior to putting in corner bass traps and less expensive and obtrusive as well?Standard, I order the the screw attachment method and set them in place without the screws, gravity takes care of the rest.
blade 0 degree
If you stick with 4 inch wide you do not need the floor option as your feet span the grill and don't exert much pressure.
@BIGmouthinDC, you are incredibly helpful. Thank you very much for how you tirelessly (well, maybe you are tired....not really sure) help out others. What a blessing!
Well you need to make sure your ears aren't in a null, 25, 50 and 75 % of room length for room length issuesDoing this will pretty much take care of my bass management, correct?
that you use two subs equal distant to the center line of the room for room width issues if you have center seats
and that you have some way of doing measurement and equalization of the room
then you should be good.
Thanks. Got everything in the cart. OUCH! $460 (black powder coat added about $30/grate and was $45 shipping)Well you need to make sure your ears aren't in a null, 25, 50 and 75 % of room length for room length issues
that you use two subs equal distant to the center line of the room for room width issues if you have center seats
and that you have some way of doing measurement and equalization of the room
then you should be good.
Seats will be 14 feet from front wall of 25' room which equates to 56%. I can adjust this if needed but REW simulation seems to work pretty well there. I will be getting a miniDSP and mic and learning REW once everything set up. That seat position seem okay? Will have 2 rows of 4 so no center seats.
I paint my own, $5-10, not concerned about the heat this just sticks good. use multiple thin coats
Rust-Oleum Specialty 12 oz. High Heat Flat Bar-B-Que Black Interior/Exterior Spray Paint 7778830 - The Home Depot
The Rust-Oleum Specialty 12 oz. High Heat Aerosol Paint works well on grills, wood-burning stoves, engines and other metal items. It comes in a variety of colors and is great for use in temperatures up
www.homedepot.com
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