AVS Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I built my risers and stage with 2 layers of 1/2 plywood and put a lip to hide rope lights under. I am adding a half-round edge to the lip to give the lip a curve and make it easier for adding carpet.


My question is will I have to worry about the half-round lip breaking loose under the carpet? What is the best way to attach it so it won't come off? I plan to glue it with Liquid Nails and use a finishing nail gun. Would it be better to go back through and use screws to hold it on? I am worried about the screws possibly splitting the half-round and/or plywood. Predrilling is a possibility, but might take too long to do as I am in a little bit of a time crunch and have about 75 feet of the half-round trim to put on two risers and a stage.


Carpet guys come tomorrow and plan to be done in 3 hours. I think it will take longer than that.


Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27,204 Posts
I did the same thing in my room except I didn't add the 1/2 round.


The carpet is fine around the bullnose. May be best to leave things be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27,204 Posts
I did the same thing in my room except I didn't add the 1/2 round.


The carpet is fine around the bullnose. May be best to leave things be.


See my pix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
915 Posts
Toxarch,


I would definitely use glue whether you use nails or screws. Instead of Liquid Nails, you might want to consider a polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue. Most decking grade plywood has a considerable number of voids on the edge. Poly glue foams slightly, fills voids and provides a very strong bond. Put the glue on one side of the joint and moisten the other face with a damp sponge. Once set, this won't come loose!


FYI... I have been accused of "overbuilding things"!:)


Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,984 Posts
Mine was done the same way - the carpet guys went nuts, complaining about how difficult it was to sculpt the carpet around it and staple underneath. It looks great.


Oh, and it's gonna take them 5 or 6 hours . . .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
853 Posts
Ditto ebr. I used LN, but then used screws exclusively after pre-drilling the hole to prevent cracking. It also help to sink the screw heads.


The plywood can be problematic with the screw grooves. They grab better when going through the top or bottom of the T&G plywood. Going in sideways can sometimes loose the sink and effectively strip the hole.


Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the replies. I'm going to use Liquid Nails since I have a bunch left over and don't want to find the receipt for a return. Plus, I went to Lowe's on the way home, don't feel like going to Home Depot or Lowe's right now for different glue. But the Gorilla Glue sounds like a great alternative. I will glue and use 2 inch finishing nails for most of it. For the steps and the ends of the stage curve, I will have to use a couple of screws to make sure they last. The stage curve is an oval with dual radius centers and it blends into the rest of the straight part of the stage. Carpet guys are goin to hate carpeting my room. I'll post a picture of the curve later.


I thought about routing the bullnose, but I was afraid of ruining the plywood with the router because of voids and splintering. If it was MDF, then sure. I am going to round out the corners after adding the half-round. Maybe that will help save the corners from rubbing.


Oh yeah, the carpet is a berber that is probably almost 1/2 inch thick. The half-round is to make sure the carpet backing does not show through when bending over the bullnose.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
305 Posts
JFYI - you'd be supprised how well plywood routes. The high speed of the bit must fuse the glue and wood together. It is VERY smooth, absolutely no splintering. Try it on some scrap if your curious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
I also used a router to create the rounded edge. But I only took the sharp edge off and did not actually create a full bullnose. It looks fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
I'm a few weeks from putting my riser and and saw the thread. I'm a little confused so hopefully someone camn clarify.


My riser will be about 8". What material should I use for the top deck, plywood, MDF or particle board?


As for the overhang, I wasn't aware(Pure novice here) that I would need to add bullnose or route the deck edge. I just assumed that is I left a 2" overhang, that would be enough the the carpet installers to tack the carpet underneath.


Is there anything else I should consider?


Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
I'd recommend plywood for the top. It'll make it easier for the carpet staples to go in. The carpet installers were complaining becaused I used particle board instead of ply wood.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
305 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by jeffczyz
As for the overhang, I wasn't aware(Pure novice here) that I would need to add bullnose or route the deck edge. I just assumed that is I left a 2" overhang, that would be enough the the carpet installers to tack the carpet underneath.


Jeff
The rounded edge will create a natural curve for the carpet. Without one, I would be afraid the carpet would wear abnormally on the sharp edge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
When I did the bullnose on my riser I painted it the same color as the room and ran the carpet to the edge of the bullnose then started the carpet again at the face of the riser.


Earl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
After installing the half round on the curve, I kinda wish I had routered the plywood. That curve where it goes one way and then switches the opposite way was a pain. I'll try and upload a couple of pictures from the camera soon. My digital camera takes pictures at a higher resolution than allowed to be posted so I have to alter them first.


But anyway, we worked on finishing up the room until 6 AM. Then had to get up at 9 when the carpet guys were supposed to show up. They finally arrived at 11:30 and finished around 5 PM. But they did a great job and the bullnoses and stage curve looks great. Turned out the guy who measured the room for the carpet forgot all the sides of the risers. But they had enough carpet to do the room with what we had paid for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Just completed theater step bullnose edging on 1-1/8" plywood that you could jump up and down on and not break off. Here's how you do it...


1) Purchase a clear Fir & Larch 2x4 and take to a custom cabinet molding shop. Have them cut the bullnose to size (ours was 25 linear feet of 1-1/8" by 7/8" at ~$35).

2) Miter to fit steps

3) Use PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive (available in small or large caulking gun tubes). Far better than Liquid Nails. Apply amply.

4) Screw on with 2" hardened steel trim-head construction screws at 6" intervals. The head takes a torx #2 bit and is only 1/8" in diameter. Pulls right into the bullnose wood with no chance of splitting. Don't know if these are hard to find, but a good lumber yard will have them (possibly not HD). DO NOT USE drywall screws or ordinary wood screws!

5) Wipe off excess glue that squeezes out.

When done, no one can break off the bullnose even if paid to do so.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top