Rixlab has been advertising a 25' 28ga. HDMI 1.3a cable. I questioned them regarding this cable passing 1080p and they say it does pass 1080p. They said it had to do with the quality of the copper and the construction. I was always under the impression that a 28ga. HDMI would not work for 1080p. Anybody used this cable?
Rixlab 25' 28ga. HDMI cable
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The PRO grade cables on their site shows the 24ft at 24AWG. If your looking for a larger gauge look in the CLEARANCE SECTION.
I just bought this 22AWG 26.4 ft cable and YES it does pass 1080P/24 It last years model jacket color as pictured. Huge cable. Looks like a 1/2 inch diameter garden hose. I have been buying from Rix labs for 2 years now. Great quality cables.
Cant post links due to not having enough posts. Have been registered for years just dont post normally.
I just bought this 22AWG 26.4 ft cable and YES it does pass 1080P/24 It last years model jacket color as pictured. Huge cable. Looks like a 1/2 inch diameter garden hose. I have been buying from Rix labs for 2 years now. Great quality cables.
Cant post links due to not having enough posts. Have been registered for years just dont post normally.
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Heavier gauge wire can help overcome some of the issues HDMI faces over a lower quality copper wire. If you have a high quality copper wire and the wires in the cable are properly insulated, you can achieve 1.3a certification. Blue Jeans Cable has a lot of good info on HDMI cabling and good prices as well.
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I had a 24awg 25' run from source to a hdmi wall plate. I tried a 28awg 3' run from the wall plate to the projector. It didn't work. (The 28awg cable was tested to be good.) I switched to a 24awg 3' run and it is working flawlessly. So I think your safer bet is to go with at least 24awg.
Do you use the 28ga? Right now in my dedicated room I only have the projector and DVD (HD DVD A35) player located in the room. Pre/pro, amp and tuner are located in a mechanical room. Since the DVD player is in the room I use a 3' HDMI to DVI to the projector and optical to the AVR. The pre/pro is an old Denon 3300. If I upgrade AVR's to a HDMI AVR then I will need to install HDMI cable. The install will consist of the following:
3' HDMI cable from DVD to AVR.
3' HDMI cable from AVR to HDMI wall outlet.
25' HDMI cable from HDMI wall outlet to HDMI wall outlet.
3' HDMI to DVI cable from HDMI wall outlet to projector.
A total of 31' from AVR to projector along with two HDMI outlets. Right now I am thinking about Monoprice 24ga. CL2 rated HDMI cable for outlet to outlet. 28 ga. Monoprice HDMI from AVR to wall outlet and 3' 28 ga. Monoprice HDMI/DVI from outlet to projector. Does anyone see any problem with this plan or have suggestions?
Do you use the 28ga? Right now in my dedicated room I only have the projector and DVD (HD DVD A35) player located in the room. Pre/pro, amp and tuner are located in a mechanical room. Since the DVD player is in the room I use a 3' HDMI to DVI to the projector and optical to the AVR. The pre/pro is an old Denon 3300. If I upgrade AVR's to a HDMI AVR then I will need to install HDMI cable. The install will consist of the following:
3' HDMI cable from DVD to AVR.
3' HDMI cable from AVR to HDMI wall outlet.
25' HDMI cable from HDMI wall outlet to HDMI wall outlet.
3' HDMI to DVI cable from HDMI wall outlet to projector.
A total of 31' from AVR to projector along with two HDMI outlets. Right now I am thinking about Monoprice 24ga. CL2 rated HDMI cable for outlet to outlet. 28 ga. Monoprice HDMI from AVR to wall outlet and 3' 28 ga. Monoprice HDMI/DVI from outlet to projector. Does anyone see any problem with this plan or have suggestions?
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I haven't either. I wasn't commenting so much on the length as the gauge.
I have the 35 foot 22AWG CL2 cable from Monoprice and I like it just fine!
I haven't either. I wasn't commenting so much on the length as the gauge.
I have the 35 foot 22AWG CL2 cable from Monoprice and I like it just fine!
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24awg all the way.
Are you saying you would use 24 ga HDMI cables for the 3' runs? I don't think they make a 24 ga 3' HDMI to DVI cable do they?
Added:
Monoprice does sell a 24 ga. HDMI to DVI cable: www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&cs_id=1023102&p_id=2286&seq=1&format=2 I used to run heavy cables to my equipment until it messed up an HDMI port on an AVR. Now I try to use lighter weight, more flexible cables for the equipment connection. A heavy cable might not be a problem if installed and left alone, but on my AVR I change things often. Pulling the AVR out (for changes) and pushing it back into position is what messed up the port.
Are you saying you would use 24 ga HDMI cables for the 3' runs? I don't think they make a 24 ga 3' HDMI to DVI cable do they?
Added:
Monoprice does sell a 24 ga. HDMI to DVI cable: www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&cs_id=1023102&p_id=2286&seq=1&format=2 I used to run heavy cables to my equipment until it messed up an HDMI port on an AVR. Now I try to use lighter weight, more flexible cables for the equipment connection. A heavy cable might not be a problem if installed and left alone, but on my AVR I change things often. Pulling the AVR out (for changes) and pushing it back into position is what messed up the port.
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I will be checking as soon as the projector arrives, but I just ordered the blue jeans series-1 (25') which is 23.5awg for the long run, and series-2 (6') 24awg for the short runs to the switch.
I purchased a 30' series-2 from clearance, but don't plan on using it in the theater... that will be used if I get a 4X2 switch instead of the 4X1 switch I plan on using now.
With the exception of "bendability," is there ever a time where thicker cable is not better?
Chris
I purchased a 30' series-2 from clearance, but don't plan on using it in the theater... that will be used if I get a 4X2 switch instead of the 4X1 switch I plan on using now.
With the exception of "bendability," is there ever a time where thicker cable is not better?
Chris
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Well, I suppose it's a matter of diminishing returns. I wouldn't consider a 22 gauge HDMI cable necessarily 'better' than a 24 gauge HDMI cable for 6 feet for example. Plus build construction could always be a factor. I've had very thick cables that just didn't work properly, even at 6'.
Anyways, I have a 26 AWG 25' cable that seems to work fine with 1080i (at least with my cable box), but it seems rather borderline to me given the usual recommendations, and I haven't tested much 1080p60. IIRC, some of the recommendations I've read seem to suggest 25' as the max length for 26 AWG, with 24 gauge preferred. (FWIW, I get no visible sparklies at 1080i and the rare times I've tested 1080p60. I do have a rare split-second green flashing issue with my projector, but I'm told that's a problem with the projector that is corrected with a firmware update. We shall see. And a second sample of the same 25' 26 AWG cable works perfectly with my LCD TV, again with no sparklies, at all tested resolutions up to 1080p60.)
I just chose 26 gauge because of its bendability (several 90 degree turns) and because it would fit in my existing wire conduits. If the run were only 15' I wouldn't have thought twice about it, but 25' did give me pause. If it worked then great, but if it didn't I'm only out
Well, I suppose it's a matter of diminishing returns. I wouldn't consider a 22 gauge HDMI cable necessarily 'better' than a 24 gauge HDMI cable for 6 feet for example. Plus build construction could always be a factor. I've had very thick cables that just didn't work properly, even at 6'.
Anyways, I have a 26 AWG 25' cable that seems to work fine with 1080i (at least with my cable box), but it seems rather borderline to me given the usual recommendations, and I haven't tested much 1080p60. IIRC, some of the recommendations I've read seem to suggest 25' as the max length for 26 AWG, with 24 gauge preferred. (FWIW, I get no visible sparklies at 1080i and the rare times I've tested 1080p60. I do have a rare split-second green flashing issue with my projector, but I'm told that's a problem with the projector that is corrected with a firmware update. We shall see. And a second sample of the same 25' 26 AWG cable works perfectly with my LCD TV, again with no sparklies, at all tested resolutions up to 1080p60.)
I just chose 26 gauge because of its bendability (several 90 degree turns) and because it would fit in my existing wire conduits. If the run were only 15' I wouldn't have thought twice about it, but 25' did give me pause. If it worked then great, but if it didn't I'm only out
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I have 5 cables from source (PS3) to target (pj), all hdmi connections.
1. PS3 to Receiver - 6' 24awg.
2. Receiver to hdmi splitter - 6' 24awg.
3. Hdmi splitter to wall plate - 6' 24awg.
4. Wall plate to wall plate - 25' 24awg.
5. Wall plate to pj - 3' 24awg.
I tried a 28awg for the last cable and it didn't work. Anyway with the good price you get from a few online stores you should order extras to test for yourself. And I agree that 24awg is rather hard to manipulate. For a couple of cables I had to use longer ones (6' instead of 3') since I didn't want to bend the ends too much fearing that the I/O connectors could be damaged.
1. PS3 to Receiver - 6' 24awg.
2. Receiver to hdmi splitter - 6' 24awg.
3. Hdmi splitter to wall plate - 6' 24awg.
4. Wall plate to wall plate - 25' 24awg.
5. Wall plate to pj - 3' 24awg.
I tried a 28awg for the last cable and it didn't work. Anyway with the good price you get from a few online stores you should order extras to test for yourself. And I agree that 24awg is rather hard to manipulate. For a couple of cables I had to use longer ones (6' instead of 3') since I didn't want to bend the ends too much fearing that the I/O connectors could be damaged.
I think you may be right. This set up is different from my other room. In this set up the equipment is in another room on open shelves and the projector is on a fixed mount so movement will be minimal. I will probably go with 24 ga. all the way.
I think you may be right. This set up is different from my other room. In this set up the equipment is in another room on open shelves and the projector is on a fixed mount so movement will be minimal. I will probably go with 24 ga. all the way.
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Good points. I guess from the "build" perspective, all things being equal, thicker gets you a longer run but may not be necessary. For instance, Blue Jeans says that their series-2 was good to 25' and series-1 should be used after that to 45' (or at least implied that). So I should have been just fine with with a series-2 25' cable. But I like a little insurance just in case whoever may have had a hand in making it was hung over that day.
I probably should have read up on silver-coated copper vs. tin-coated copper, but I just assumed that silver-coated was better since silver cost more and it would seem like a waste if silver was less efficient. So I got silver-coated
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Good points. I guess from the "build" perspective, all things being equal, thicker gets you a longer run but may not be necessary. For instance, Blue Jeans says that their series-2 was good to 25' and series-1 should be used after that to 45' (or at least implied that). So I should have been just fine with with a series-2 25' cable. But I like a little insurance just in case whoever may have had a hand in making it was hung over that day.
I probably should have read up on silver-coated copper vs. tin-coated copper, but I just assumed that silver-coated was better since silver cost more and it would seem like a waste if silver was less efficient. So I got silver-coated
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Yeah, I was willing to take a chance on 26 gauge cable for a 25' run because I wasn't sure 24 AWG would fit in those conduits, and my conduits are not in-wall anyway.
If I was doing an in-wall install , I'd buy good quality 22 or at least 24 gauge cable for 25' just to be safe. Spending an extra 2-digit $$ is worth it. It's sure better than having to rip out part of your walls to install new cable.
In fact I may try to stuff 24 AWG cable in those conduits anyway, just to have some breathing room for iffy hardware. It'd be a very tight fit though.
P.S. What's the point of a net jacket anyway?
If I was doing an in-wall install , I'd buy good quality 22 or at least 24 gauge cable for 25' just to be safe. Spending an extra 2-digit $$ is worth it. It's sure better than having to rip out part of your walls to install new cable.
In fact I may try to stuff 24 AWG cable in those conduits anyway, just to have some breathing room for iffy hardware. It'd be a very tight fit though.
P.S. What's the point of a net jacket anyway?
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When I did my theater upgrade I was concerned because I needed to go quite a distance between my sat receiver and the TV in our greatroom. I thought that anything over 25' was risky, but I have been using a 50' a MonoPrice 24ga copper/tin cable with no problems. I did purchase two of the 6" Port Saver cable they sell for each end to protect the connectors on my Dish VIP 722 and my Panny Plasma, but the cable has been flawless - as have all my MonoPrice cables.
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