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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It arrived in a huge double box on a skid. The skid was smashed and the box was banged up. The driver noted it on the reciept for me and signed it just in case (he did this without me asking him to do it). AIT was the shipping company.


I unpacked it and all was well.


Fortunately for me, soon after my plasma arrived, FedEX showed up with my Peerless articulating (swivel) wall mount. I ordered the 505 wall mount. And then a couple of hours later, UPS showed up with my AVIA DVD. (I love it when a plan comes together). But I don't have my DVD player yet so I can't run any calibration tests at the moment.


So I installed the mount and it fit the PRO1000 perfectly.


After some preliminary tests, it seems I have 2 dead pixels. They are in the lower 2 inch region of the display spread far apart. I can see them when I get real close but at viewing distance, I can't see them at all even if I look exactly where they're supposed to be (and at my last eye exam, the doc said I had better than 20/20 vision). So I'm not too bothered by them - maybe they'll go away after some use - but I'll see what happens with MAB's dead pixel situation. I'm sure I'll be able to see them if I hook up a computer with solid color backgrounds.


I hooked up my Dish 6000 HD receiver and it looks stellar! Big beautiful HD pictures on Showtime, HBO and CBS.


A bit of info: EricBee mentioned in another thread that the impedance selector switch for input 2 should be set to 75 ohms. This doesn't work for me when I hook up my Dish 6000 receiver. It only works when I set it to 2.2.


So onto the questions:


1) What is considered a better hookup for HD - RGB with BNC or component outs?


2) Has anyone figured out how to get to the Integrator (service) menu? The method used for the 503 doesn't seem to work with this unit. And I want to get into the menu so I can generate full screen solid colors to test for dead pixels and maybe fix the current bad ones. I also want to enable the orbiter.


3) I changed the Power Control setting to Mode1 until I can do my own calibrations. It looks fine to me - has anyone else used this mode - it's supposed to reduce the risk of burn in.


4) Does Digital Noise Reduction actually do anything? I tried all the settings and can't notice any differences.


5) What settings have been used for Color Temp? Mine is set to middle (factory default). Is anyone using a different setting?


6) For regular NTSC feeds, is it recommended to enable the PureCinema option? If so, what's best - standard or HQ?


7) What's everyone doing with the shipping box? Are we expected to hang onto it?


That's all for now...
 

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Congratulations! Are you going to keep the frame on or off? In any event, here are some answers:


If the choice is RGB or Component, they are the same. The only difference is the connectors, you are still using 3 cables. I prefer BNC connectors because they cannot slip off and make good contact but, as far as a visual difference, there won't be any.


As far as settings, I have left them all at the factory default setting. That includes power control, noise reduction and color temp. I am not certain what is "best" because I do not have the proper equipment to test. (spectrometer) I will have my set ISF'ed soon and will post all settings.


I do not know how to get into the integrator menu or to turn on the orbiter, sorry.


As far as purecinema, I leave it on HQ.


After checking my set, I threw away the boxes. I live in NYC no room for them here. You have a minor pixel issue. I would hold onto the boxes for a week or so, just in case you have to ship the unit back. Lucky for you the pixels are on the lower left side of the panel, thats the best place for them as they are primarily out of view and not in use on letterbox images. Hopefully they will correct themselves but, keep an eye out for MAB's posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Eric - in answer to your question, I have the frame off. I actually didn't mind the urishi frame at all so I left it to my wife to make the final call - she liked it off. Now I'm off to get a matching A/V stand from Bell'O International. I'll post a picture once it's all set up.


With respect to letterbox and dead pixels - when I view HD over satellite on my Dish 6000 receiver, it takes up the entire screen - there are no borders - the image isn't stretched. And I can't change the picture size. So those 2 dead pixels are actually in use. But I assume that if I view a DVD in letterbox, it won't take up the entire screen - correct?


And thanks again for arranging the PB Eric! This display is really a work of art and engineering.


Fyi - I had the display on for about 4 hours last night and the fans never turned on. The internal tests (menu - set - power on) showed that everything is working fine.
 

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as far as color temp, put up a grey bar test pattern from Avia then toggle through the temp options. i am using middle high to avoid the too-orangish tint in low and middle; conversely, high is too blue. i set the sharpness to minimum and found contrast and brightness were about right at the center position, however i am using an upstream control at my external processor. these have to be set for each input; what i do is first set the display using a quality HD feed to get an idea of the best available, then send my dvd in over the component input (virtually all dvd players output component, as opposed to rgb), and set the display accordingly; then use the s-video out from the same dvd player and set that input; then use that same s-video input for your regular cable, sat, etc.


as far as rgb vs component, your set eventually has to convert to rgb anyway, so if you can input rgb directly, you will save a step or two. the connector style is another factor: basically, BNC is the best in terms of impedance match and postive connection. if you can use all BNC without adaptors, better yet. I have bnc out of my dvd player into a processor; HD is via VGA connectors(still rgb) from the RCA DT-100 to the processor, and all outputs to the display are then rgb, all bnc.


i saved my inner box only; useful if you ever move or have to return the unit or sell it. of course its a pig to store.
 

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RobbyD - Movies (like Toy Story) with an aspect ration of 1.78:1 (16 x 9) will not be letterboxed. But a movie like the Matrix will be letterboxed. It was shot in 2.35:1 aspect ratio.


The Forum - I didn't know what "orbiter" was so I looked it up. "This function moves the screen’s display position little by little over time. (Around every 8 minutes, the position is shifted horizontally and vertically 1 bit each (range: ±3 bits).


"When ORBITER MODE is set ON, it will work to reduce the occurrence of screen burn-in when still images are displayed."


The Factory preset is off. Source: PDP-503CMX/PDP-503MXE TECHNICAL MANUAL (Ver. 1.0) Page 148
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I noticed something interesting. The serial number on the back of the Pro1000HD is different than the serial number that is located under the bottom left (when facing front) of the internal frame (not urishi). At least they're different on mine.


This would lead me to believe that these puppies start their lives as 503's.


Let the rumors fly....
 

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it's no rumor, dude.


doody.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I finally got everything setup. I've attached a photo of it. The plasma is mounted on the peerless 505 articulating mount and it swings out to appear to be floating in the corner - it's quite an amazing effect when you see it in person. I chose the Bello AVS-4205M A/V unit to hold my components. There's an empty spot at the bottom of the unit - that space is reserved for my XBox

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As requested - attached is a side shot showing the mount. The mount itself is fairly heavy so if you plan on installing one yourself, you absolutely have to hit the studs at 16" centers. There's a total of 6 bolts holding the bracket to the studs (3 per side). The kit only comes with the bolts for wood studs. If you have steel studs or concrete, you have to order the kit specifically for that surface.
 

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Besides stud location, how did you decide how close to the corner to mount the bracket?


Thanks for the pictures! Will you eventually poke a hole between the studs and just under the bracket to hide the cables?
 

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OK, so what are the outside dimensions without the frame?


Thanks....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
To position the wall bracket you don't really have much choice. You simply choose the stud closest to the corner (without of course choosing the stud in the corner). You then have 5 holes in the wall bracket to choose from for inserting the swivel arm. I chose the hole in the wall bracket that allowed arm to swing all the way to the wall without hitting it.


The external dimensions without the Urishi frame is approx 48" x 28"
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Void - I forgot to mention that I'm toying with the idea of running the cables behind the wall but for now I simply put them inside a foam pipe insulation tube. It's only visible for a short length and it's not very noticeable (it doesn't grab your eye). So I don't know if it's worth punching a hole in the wall. The display looks like it's floating and the tube does not seem like it's linked to the display at all.
 

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OK, so saw the display this weekend at Harveys in NYC. Thought I wanted the Panasonic, but my wife actually liked the Pioneer better. How'd that happen?


Anyway, they had a $15k price tag on it, and I don't see too many web prices on it. I've fired off a note to Paul at ProjectionOne to see what their price is, but thought I'd see if there was some advice here on good places/prices. Probably won't actually make the jump for a few months, as we will have to find an acceptable cabinet to put it into, but that's OK. Often the anticipation is part of the fun.


So, price/store suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Paul won't be able to sell it to you since he isn't an Elite dealer - but he can sell you the 503 which is the industrial version.


As for price - a number of us purchased the PRO1000 through a powerbuy that EricBee arranged. The nature of that deal is such that we aren't permitted to disclose any information about price or from where we purchased.


But if you PM Eric, he can point you in the right direction.
 

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hi all...


i too really love my peerless with my pany 42".


however, i have the problem, that i can't get the monitor to

go completely flush against the wall, unless i angle the top of the pany

down a few degrees.


i have tried to change the arm, which didn't seem to help the

problem. my next step it to change the universal mount to try

and fix.


has anyone else had this problem?


what was the fix?


thanks. michael...
 

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RobbyD,


I will be getting a 503CMX soon. I have been looking at the Bello plasma series A/V units (not wall mounts). Did you look at these? There are three models available. Their web site is great ( www.bellointl.com ). One of the three would require that the plasma be stand mounted. Also, do you remember the outside dimensions of the outer box it was shipped in? It needs to fit inside my SUV.:)
 

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WOW! I'm flabbergasted that you've got the PRO1000 is setup on an articulating mount! That must be SOME piece of hardware! Mine is mounted to the wall, and THAT was a serious task. Even with 6 lag-bolts into the stud centers I was STILL concerned that the thing was so freakin' heavy! I'm sure it works, but I'd be awake nights worrying about when it would fail!


Great setup, dude.


Doody.
 
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