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Roksan K2 & K3 Amp—Issue

I have both a Roksan Kandy K2 IA (the original version without the bluetooth) and the new K3. My plan was to have the K2 fixed and sell it after upgrading, but the repair turned out to be an upgrade in its own right (as I explain below), and so I've decided to keep it after all.

Let me cut to the chase. The problem with the K2, which Roksan claimed is "very rare" when I contacted them, turned out to be a problem with the new K3 as well. In short, while these units sound great, there was a major compromise in build quality, causing the units to hum through the speakers. At first it's only the HT bypass input that does this, and only a little, but it worsens over time and other inputs can be affected as well.

I sent the first K3 I ordered back because I noticed the IEC inlet was loose right out of the box. They claimed it was a known quality control issue with the compression fitting. But why use a part that's prone to this problem?

It turned out that the same "toy" IEC inlet was also the culprit in my buzzing K2. Because it's both flimsily held in place and poorly wired to the board, the grounding gives out easily, which caused the irritating hum through the speakers (which got amplified by my subs:().

Why, then, didn't Roksan use a proper $3 set screw piece, instead of a compression-fitted toy that's affixed with a silicon bead and connected to the main board with little plastic clips instead of solder? I've posted a picture below. The bead and clips came from inside my amp, and, yes, that really is what's holding things together inside!

My sense is that the K3 is considered a great bargain in the UK market at 1,250 pounds. But at 2,500 USD, it isn't asking to be judged by bargain standards here, and it seems like Roksan owes its customers a real answer. In the owner's manual, we're instructed to minimize the number of times we unplug the supplied power cord. But why go with a detachable power cord if the inlet is that feeble? What gives, Roksan? And how is that all the glowing reviews have missed this? (A WhatHifi Review notes the wobbly volume knob on the K3, but I've heard from reliable sources that that's not a real build-quality issue, just an aesthetic one.)

It seems all the more peculiar to include bluetooth connectivity with such a paired-down design, while neglecting something as truly fundamental as power.

The good news: I had a Furutech IEC inlet installed and competently wired into my K2, and the unit sounds better than ever before!
 

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Quick followup: I just saw that "superior build quality" appears second on the list of the K3's alleged attributes on Roksan's website:frown:

http://www.roksan.co.uk/k3.html

I'm starting to think a parody of their video may be in order: "Welcome to the inside of the new K3, where capacitors in the main signal path have been replaced with Folger's Crystals…"
 

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I know this is an old thread but I recently purchased a Roksan K3 Integrated & have the same problem of buzzing thru the speakers when the input is on HT Bypass. Curiously, there is a buzzing even when there is no input signal!

I was wondering how you solved the issue with your K3.

Thanks.
 
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