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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
BACKGROUND Like many here I joined AVS 5 years ago in search of a question regarding my new plasma tv. I started hanging around, reading and exploring different sections of the forum. Most time was spent in awe of the guys who posted pics and threads of their dedicated theater rooms. I started saving for my own project and finally can now post my own thread about my space. The physical work started in November 2014. I'll give my apology now, all pictures are from my iphone, I don't own a camera.

My living situation is not normal for most and because of it, this isn't a DIY job by myself due to me being in a wheelchair (queue the play on words for my theater's name). I owe my father many many thanks for helping and learning through the process of DIY'ing a theater. He tackled majority of the work, and the bigger things we didn't want to tackle, we hired out. Nyal from Acoustics Frontier is in charge of all the planning for my theaters equipment, sound isolation, and acoustics.

AUDIO EQUIPMENT
L/C/R Speakers - Procella P8s
Surround Speakers - Procella P6Vs
Atmos Ceiling Speakers - 4x Procella P6IWs (will be mounted on ceiling though)
Subs - 2x SVS PB12+
AVR - Yamaha Aventage Rx - A3040
Amps - Parasound a23 (x2) (upgraded 7.29.2016)

VIDEO EQUIPMENT
Projector - JVC RS-500 (upgraded 4.3.2016)
Screen - Seymour AV 2.35 110" wide
Blu Ray - Oppo 103D

ROOM LAYOUT
The room measured 23' x 13' ~ 10' ceiling. The room has a some obstacles to overcome, like all rooms. This one has a window, glass french doors to the courtyard, and 3 interior doors (a single and french door). Here are pics after we bought the house. The previous owner had his own version of theater. It worked for him and his wants/needs. My vision is different.






this was after we moved in, hence storage use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
We started by demoing the existing room you see in the previous post. Took everything out. Then had to frame a new wall in front of the french doors and window. We also framed a new wall in the back as I wanted to keep the french doors that face the main entrance hallway

side entrance to the theater, from the hallway. adding an interior door to create communicating doors. there's another entrance from the rear.


so many wires, he had every room ran w/ cat5.


framed wall is going infront of the french doors that lead to the courtyard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
For sound isolation we filled the walls with 3-4# rockwool and the ceiling was r19. Then the 2 original walls we used clips + 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. The ceiling is clips w/ 3/4" osb & 5/8" drywall. The two new walls were built decoupled so we went w/ 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. Green glue was used in between layers and then used acoustic sealant in gaps. Also used acoustic sealant for the new door frames that were built since the doors are communicating doors.

Don't really have any pics of the sound isolation. Pretty much typical clips and rail

here's 3/4" OSB layer on the clips channels.


hat channel, clips are the isomax, and used rockwool insulation
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Hired a friend of a friend who does drywall. He and his brother were a two man crew and I lucked out with these guys. They listened to my instructions on the green glue, took their time, measuring twice, and were pumped to learn. If I didn't have an answer, I'd search here or ask Nyal. I got reallyn lucky w/ these guys. They also framed my soffit for me. The dimensions for the soffits are 18"x18". The soffits are double layered w/ 5/8" drywall, and green glue. All gaps again filled with acoustic sealant.

here is one layer of the heavy 5/8" drywall. i got lucky w/ them as they paid attention to the details i asked for and they did their own reading on green glues website/soundproof company site.


used metal to frame out the soffits




before mud


after
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Riser

The plan calls for a high riser. It's 18". Also because I am having that rear door swing into the room, it has to clear 36" from the wall, so the back row won't be able to go full recline. It won't bother me as my main seating position is the front row. Steps are wide as well in the front since front row will be 2 chairs and space for my wheelchair.

Laid roofing felt down first, then constructed the riser. The pictures don't show it because we built this first as a mock up to see if it would work.




ran wire for step lights and power outlets


2 layers of 3/4" that comes to exact height of 18", green glue in between and filled w/ insulation.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
you can see the rear single door in the background above. facing that door from the gym, would see french doors. wanted to keep that look. so here's how we solved the french doors. on the two new doors, (have communicating doors for side entrance too) i used q-lon weatherstrips, thresholds and jamb seals. i'm contemplating automatic door bottoms and some more q-lon strips for the other doors, as well as an astragal seal too.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
i'm not doing a stage or any front curve soffit. instead i built a baffle wall per Nyals specs. The baffle wall has an outer frame that will hold the screen and the track lighting i bought to light up the speakers and auralex. The physical build portion is done, need to add the platfoam and pyramids still. The tracklighting I went with for the Imax effect is:

in black though
http://www.ylighting.com/model801.html

heres first frame, the baffle wall.



after putting a layer of drywall, gg, mdf, this is the final layer of drywall again


added thick r38 in the space between wall and baffle wall, just going over final scraps of covering mdf and trimming up the speaker cutouts


the baffle wall is complete, this framing the screen wall. it also holds the track light for the speakers.
 

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i'm not doing a stage or any front curve soffit. instead i built a baffle wall per Nyals specs. The baffle wall has an outer frame that will hold the screen and the track lighting i bought to light up the speakers and auralex. The physical build portion is done, need to add the platfoam and pyramids still. The tracklighting I went with for the Imax effect is:

in black though
http://www.ylighting.com/model801.html

very cool. nyal is doing my plans also. i also had him do the baffle wall layout for me along with the imax look. i didn't spec my light yet though. I'm actually using wac lights to light the front of my screen with down light. i like what u picked for the speaker lights. what is ur layout plan for them? on the floor shining up, but where are u hiding them cause you mentioned the screen attaches to the baffle wall? is there a space left for them? you lost me with that part?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
very cool. nyal is doing my plans also. i also had him do the baffle wall layout for me along with the imax look. i didn't spec my light yet though. I'm actually using wac lights to light the front of my screen with down light. i like what u picked for the speaker lights. what is ur layout plan for them? on the floor shining up, but where are u hiding them cause you mentioned the screen attaches to the baffle wall? is there a space left for them? you lost me with that part?
i'll try and get a picture of what did. my lighting will be from the bottom up style. i ended up notching a little section on the supports that are just for the holding the screen and velvet panels.



yea, sorry, there is 13" between the baffle wall and screen wall. in the pic below, i ran power to the front of the baffle wall, but behind the frame wall. then in the downward arrows i notched gaps to hold the track. we'll see if the barndoor accessories are visible, once the screen is hung.

if it is, i'll run another support a tad lower to hold the lights. went with the notching first as the subs haven't been placed in their cutouts
 

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i'll try and get a picture of what did. my lighting will be from the bottom up style. i ended up notching a little section on the supports that are just for the holding the screen and velvet panels.

yea, sorry, there is 13" between the baffle wall and screen wall. in the pic below, i ran power to the front of the baffle wall, but behind the frame wall. then in the downward arrows i notched gaps to hold the track. we'll see if the barndoor accessories are visible, once the screen is hung.

if it is, i'll run another support a tad lower to hold the lights. went with the notching first as the subs haven't been placed in their cutouts
Ok that's makes sense. So the baffle wall, 13 inch gap to the screen support framing. Lights inbetween. What is the circle stuff behind the wall? Treatment and design of the false and baffle wall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok that's makes sense. So the baffle wall, 13 inch gap to the screen support framing. Lights inbetween. What is the circle stuff behind the wall? Treatment and design of the false and baffle wall?
the baffle is 14" off the wall, the frame 13" from that. the holes are attached to the baffle wall and are per nyals design. i had lots of mdf left over so we used that, the spec called for plywood. holes were punched out w/ hole saw 3" diameter, 4" on diameter.
 

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the baffle is 14" off the wall, the frame 13" from that. the holes are attached to the baffle wall and are per nyals design. i had lots of mdf left over so we used that, the spec called for plywood. holes were punched out w/ hole saw 3" diameter, 4" on diameter.
thanks for the info. that's cool about the holes. i didn't get my plans yet for the wall. i'm not there yet. i am getting stuff from him as i need it.

jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks for the info. that's cool about the holes. i didn't get my plans yet for the wall. i'm not there yet. i am getting stuff from him as i need it.

jim
no problem, the holes were definitely the dirtiest trickiest. nyals been awesome, i've had tons of questions, probably more then he wanted to answer and has been tremendous in this whole project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
the goal for the walls is to have some wainscoting, the chair rail, then fabric covering up the acoustic treatment. per the acoustic plan, the side panels start at 28" high, giving me room for wainscoting. i kept the entire wainscoting 28" total, but adjusted per steps and riser.

wainscoting is mdf and to adjust for depth of the panels, 3" deep. insulation stuffed in the cavity.

started w/ 2x2, then added another layer of 1" thick wood, to bring it out those 3"



close up
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
what is ur layout plan for them? on the floor shining up, but where are u hiding them cause you mentioned the screen attaches to the baffle wall? is there a space left for them? you lost me with that part?
heres a better pic showing the separation. the shiny plastic is the wac track i notched into the frame. just waiting on the end of line junction box to arrive to connect the line and wac
 

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heres a better pic showing the separation. the shiny plastic is the wac track i notched into the frame. just waiting on the end of line junction box to arrive to connect the line and wac
cool thanks. i can't wait to build my baffle wall. i got to build a stage first though. i spoke with nyal about the stage a few weeks ago and he wanted me to just nix it, but i really want that look. maybe of my room was wider i would have and added some columns but its so narrow my screen goes end to end almost. figured the stage would dress it up. i can't wait to see ur front of the room done.

keep chuggin' along!

jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
cool thanks. i can't wait to build my baffle wall. i got to build a stage first though. i spoke with nyal about the stage a few weeks ago and he wanted me to just nix it, but i really want that look. maybe of my room was wider i would have and added some columns but its so narrow my screen goes end to end almost. figured the stage would dress it up. i can't wait to see ur front of the room done.

keep chuggin' along!

jim
thanks dude. i'm hoping more platfoam comes in soon so i can wrap up the baffle wall

i was looking at a stage in the beginning but adding the depth i need for the baffle wall, then the riser needing to be 36" from the new wall in the back (which is more like 40 w/ dd dw) i didnt see the point for me. it would cramp down on room size, probably make it feel overcrowded. plus i have a side door that would of gotten in the way.

i agree though, i like the stage look in the other rooms on this site
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
because the room isnt long, i only have 4 columns, two on the side of riser, 2 in the back. the columns were built in the room. used 2x2 for support and then covered them with mdf, using screws. measured out what the cutout would be and did it by hand.

back columns i had to adjust for the returns that were in the soffit. the only pic i have is a blurry one of the frame

heres the cavity filled w/ insulation. added 3/4" mdf as the face


other side showing more insulation


heres the screw up in placing the return grill and columns. did the little notch out giving enough space to open the grill and change filters

 

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