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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the HDTV in (the other two tvs in) the projector on its way, the audio in (and almost done..just a sub eq to come)...now how do I attack acoustics? Where do I start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't know that I am having any. All sounds pretty good. My subs are a'little boomy and so I paln on picking up a BFD to flatten out their response. Just thought about the step after next
 

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OK-


Like real estate, the three most important things in audio are the room, the room, and the room.


The single cheapest tweak you can buy is.... measuring tape. There is no substitute for symmetry.


The speakers should be at least three feet from the side walls and at least three feet from the front wall.


Absorption to 500 hz should be placed at the first reflection point on the front wall and the side wall. To figure out where this is, have a friend sit in the listening position and take a hand mirror and slide it along the side and front walls. At the point where you see the tweeter, that is your reflection point. Put absorptive material there. If you want to try for something better, diffusion can be put there instead.


Bass traps need to go in the corners. All of them. These can be custom made and expensive, or big cheap foam (like auralex acoustics). Remember, size does matter! Placement of bass traps will cut down on low frequency room resonances and give you bass more tightness and more even frequency response.


Keep large objects from between the speakers.


These are basic guidelines. Your room may have special needs, and some speakers (like horns) have a completely different set of requirements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We have two issues:


First....WAF


Second.... all speakers are in a false wall. So, L&R 3 ft from side and front wall no problem. Nothing between...opps...TV, cc, drywall and 2x4s.


Questions being... do bass traps work in a false wall situation where the rear walls would be behind a false wall? Second absorptive or difussion on the side walls in a WAF winner? Plus where for the cc?
 

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I'm having a hard time visualizing your room (the gallery is down right now). However, if your speakers are flush mounted in a false wall then I would call that the front wall. It's very difficult to set up any three dimensional imaging from a setup like that. I think you're looking at a pancake flat soundstage.


Bass traps will still work fine.


I'll look at your room later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yep...you have it right...flush mounted. I would also agree that 3-d soundstage is gone or minimal. Not worried all that much for HT stuff however. If I had my martin logans set up that way in the audio room..not good...so I am stuck? If so no biggie since it still sounds great, just looking for the next project, if any


My room is not on the net yet...maybe I should work on that
 

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Ah- you have another listening room, Excellent!


I would certainly try the Bass traps in the corners and using diffusers on the first reflection point may outperform absorption in the same spot. WAF on diffusers is pretty bad!


Otherwise I think you're out of luck.
 

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The sidewall absorbers should work just as well with inwall speakers as non. They will just tend not to extend as far out into the room.


As for WAF, you can get some really nice fabrics now and have the manufacturer use it to cover them. I have a friend who got his WAF up by buying enough fabric to do the curtains to match (with a blackout liner of course).


Same for bass traps. You can build a triangular frame to stretch fabric over that will cover the traps. You could also actually build modified Hemholz resonators tailored just to your room requirements. Lots of good resources available on the web (sorry, new computer, favorites not moved yet or I would include some links).


Good luck
 

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bpape has very good suggestion to get some nice looking fabric to get the WAP up. If all the acoustic treatment can be placed inside the false wall and covered with the same type of fabric throughout the room, it would look very nicely.


Take a look at this link and there are lots of info on DIY acoustic treatment :
http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/a.htm


I made a couple of the bass traps and the effect was not subtle at all. Before the bass traps, the bass was lumpy and boomy. With just two traps in the front corners, the bass is much more even (I measured +/- 6dB down to 25Hz), bass became very tight and all the different notes came out loud and clear.


Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mike...are you saying bass traps behind the false wall or in front?
 

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What is your false wall made of? I have read from articles that you can made some cut out from the wall, place the traps in it and cover the outside with acoustically transparent fabric that is the same color as the rest of the room. Looking at the pictures in the articles, you can't even tell there is anything behind the wall.
 

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If the false wall is made (mostly) of acoustically transparent cloth, then acoustically it's "not there" and traps can, no should, go behind it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
now this is interesting. You are telling me that instead of all that drywall, I can wrap the wall with transarent fabric? Wow that sounds great, but not sure if I can attack that at this point. I would have to pretty much tear the whole thing down!


If I were to try this or at least as tszfung puts it "some parts of the wall" which parts?


Man, if I start tearing into the wall again, my wife will kill me...
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by slewis
now this is interesting. You are telling me that instead of all that drywall, I can wrap the wall with transarent fabric? Wow that sounds great, but not sure if I can attack that at this point. I would have to pretty much tear the whole thing down!


If I were to try this or at least as tszfung puts it "some parts of the wall" which parts?


Man, if I start tearing into the wall again, my wife will kill me...
Part of it? Which part? How much? That would be WAY over my pay grade. :D


I'd speculate that if you only made part of it from acoustically transparent cloth, you'd in effect create ports which would introduce their own set of characteristics. Hopefully, someone more knowkedgeable will reply, but my advice would be to go all or nothing.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Bill Lummus
If these ports were full of broadband absorbers they would not introduce any resonances.
There ya go, someone "more knowledgeable" but whazzis mean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ya....huh?


In case this helps...my false wall is approx as follows:

9' high and 16' across. It is 3' into the room.


I have two 24" TVs in the top corners (6" from the sides and 12" down)

I have a 50" Tosh in the middle

I have three subs in the bottom corners (6" from the sides and as high as needed (M&K in one corner and ADS and Klipsch stacked in the other))

I have the R&L&CC surrounding the Tosh 6" out (all Paradigm ref)


All subs and speakers are sitting flush to the wall, with grill cloth covering


Equip rack is to the right of the Tosh and is 22" by 60".


Thus, there is not a ton of room except for above the Tosh and cc.


The projector screen (coming soon) is celing mounted that comes down over the speakers and Tosh.


The room is 25' deep from the false wall to the back wall.


thx guys
 

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Actually my recommends are the same as I made in the beginning of the post.


I don't like the idea of cutting out a notch in the false wall for the bass traps. They would only be exposed on one side and their effetiveness would be greatly reduced. Just put them in the corners and be done with it.


Also I don't think sidewall treatments are going to make too much difference. It's kind of like putting high-octane gas in a minivan. If there is some way to get a quality 3D soundstage from flush-mounted speakers I'd love to know it, but alas- no holy grail here. The reflection point absorbers MAY sharpen up the lateral imaging but it will still be a pancake.
 
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