AVS Forum banner
  • Get an exclusive sneak peek into our new project. >>> Click Here
  • Our native mobile app has a new name: Fora Communities. Learn more.

Ruby arrives tomorrow morning. Any settings suggestions yet?

2271 Views 34 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  lovingdvd
I know it is an open ended question, but certain facts seem to be emerging; what contrast to not exceed, etc...

I am using a Stewart Studiotek 130 (1.3 gain) 100" diagonal 16 X 9. Complete light control. Dark suede walls and carpet.

Can someone give me a good idea of where to start out with the settings please. I will have my friend calibrate it for me sometime soon, but just to tide me over. Thanks
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
On my 110" Firehawk, I really like 65-70 contrast, about 60 brightness from the HD Tivo. Brighter and lower contrast form the Oppo.
Im running the Ruby on a Vutec acoustic screen. - gain.


Contrast, 80%

Brightness, 50%

Iris, auto & off

Dynamic & cinema

Gamma, #2


It will look good right out of the box but it will take a few days to learn your way through all the options and features. I do not have time to read the manual so it may take me a few days longer to figure out what does what.


Your new Ruby will keep you busy for the new years weekend:)
See less See more
- Source: HD, DVI outputting PC levels

- Contrast 60

- Brightness 60

- Gamma 2

- User defined color temperature, D65

- Sharpness 0 (> 0 creates outlines with critical material)

- Noise reduction Off

- DRC Off

- Black level adjustment Off

- Color Normal (not Wide)

- no changes in factory or service modes
See less See more
Does the Ruby have a Gamma 3 option like the 004? That's what I'm using.
Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Mike Ferrara
Does the Ruby have a Gamma 3 option like the 004? That's what I'm using.
yes (=2.31. says WSR)
mhafner, I have almost the same settings as you but run the contrast up to about 70 when I can. I was also using gamma 3. I will take a closer look at gamma 2 since you and Alan like it.
My setup currently:


Vutec 1.3 gain screen

Contrast- 65 to 70

Brightness- 40-45

Sharpness- off

DRC- off

DNR- on for HDTV via Comcast cable box connected thru DVI

DNR- off for DVD currently outputting 480p.

Iris- Auto

Black level- off

Gamma- off

Color- wide for HDTV cable and normal for DVD's

Color temp- middle (warm)

Film- auto


My question for folks is about the film mode. Do you leave it on auto at all times? Or do you turn it off for HDTV. I don't know if it was the source material, my cable box, or the Ruby's internal processing but on an HDTV tennis broadcast I got major jaggies with the courts lines?

Any thoughts? Suggestions?
See less See more
My settings with my Ruby are with a 110" dia Da-Lite Hi-Power:


-Contrast 58

-Brightness 42

-Sharpness 0 (off)

-DRC off

-DNR off

-Iris Auto

-Black level off

-Gamma off

-Color wide

-Color temp middle

-Film auto
See less See more
Along with Andys film mode question I have a few more.


When changing the NR setting I do not see any change at all. Anyone ?


What is the DRC for.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColorChange
mhafner, I have almost the same settings as you but run the contrast up to about 70 when I can. I was also using gamma 3. I will take a closer look at gamma 2 since you and Alan like it.
When I raise contrast I think white compression gets worse and maybe some clipping happens.

The difference between 98 and 100 IRE is barely visible at 60 with Auto Iris (clearly better visible with iris Off) so I stopped there. Going higher gives more punch but costs detail. I prefer gamma 2 to keep shadow detail at a good level. Rising brightness beyond 60 is no option for me since it rises black level too and that one can't be low enough for me.

Some tweaking of the Iris plus a custom gamma might get me more close to what I want, but there was no time for a lot of tests.
Quote:
I do not have time to read the manual so it may take me a few days longer to figure out what does what.
LOL. Alan, you just proved Einstein's theory of relativity. :D Happy New Year!
I noticed you set your brightness at 60, 10 clicks more than default, and contrast is way down from 80 default. You mentioned you are not getting the black level you want , so far. Wouldn't a raised brightness to 60, from the 50 default, be a source/reason, why you are not getting the black level you want? Just curious, thanks.


CHEERS, TC
Got the unit installed, up and running with the suggested settings. Thanks a million; they work great. First impression: WOW!!!!

Seriously good. More to come; gotta watch some more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by adidadi
Got the unit installed, up and running with the suggested settings. Thanks a million; they work great. First impression: WOW!!!!

Seriously good. More to come; gotta watch some more.
Hi

Am i correct in thinking we got our Marantz S3s at about the same time?(or was that someone else!)

Assuming you are coming from the S3, i would be really interested in your opinion of the Ruby.

I loved the Ruby for it's rich vibrant image, smooth artifact free motion and a depth of picture that is breathtaking.

Although the white compression is less than ideal, it is something that wouldn't bother me to much.

However i didn't like the corner issue one bit.(though i could live with the image surround halo)

It has made me hold off buying at least until it is addressed.


In fact i'm seriously thinking of holding off until late next year, and see what happens.

I'm still enjoying the S3, and although the Ruby is on another level i feel i'm in no rush to swap.


I await your findings with interest! :)
See less See more
Quote:
Originally Posted by MRJAZZZ
I noticed you set your brightness at 60, 10 clicks more than default, and contrast is way down from 80 default. You mentioned you are not getting the black level you want , so far. Wouldn't a raised brightness to 60, from the 50 default, be a source/reason, why you are not getting the black level you want? Just curious, thanks.


CHEERS, TC
50 is default for DVI video levels. I had PC levels coming in (no option to switch) so I had to go higher or shadow detail is miserable. The black level is the same at 60 with PC than at 50 with Video levels (more or less).
Well some more thoughts. As fulabeer points out; I did indeed upgrade from the Marantz VP12 S3. I am very pleased with the improvement. I consider the S3 to be the best single chip DLP available, excluding the S4. The Ruby has much more visible resolution to my eye. I can see much more detail in the picture. The blacks are staggering. Colors are very vibrant. It does create a very 3d look. The S3 does have the edge in sharpness, I think, but then the resolution of the Ruby creates a sharper look in its own way.

My overall thoughts on this projector: impressed. I have seen many projectors, and I have to say this is the best I have seen. I saw a Chris Stephens modified 9500 LC with Teranex and Sdi HD boards, etc...I don't want to state this is better, but I will say that I have a pretty good reference point in my mind and I look at this picture being fed OTA, uncompressed HD (CSI) via HDMI and I can not see one single area that needs improvement. I just can't imagine a better picture. It is like a window on the source. So in my mind; we are at a level that compares or exceeds the big 9" crt's of yesteryear. I also saw the new JVC Hd11k and I put this in that league. When Blu-ray and HD DVD come along it will be darn right scary.
See less See more
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger
Along with Andys film mode question I have a few more.


When changing the NR setting I do not see any change at all. Anyone ?


What is the DRC for.


IMHO, film mode makes sense only for telecined sources (480i/576i output from DVD player when it is playing DVD with film-based content). I don't think this mode affects pure interlaced source or even upscaled 1080i from film-content DVDs.


DRC is Sony's proprietary frequency-domain real-time superrsolution algorithm. The resolution inrease is achieved by the doubling the input signal sampling (sort of restoration high-frequency signal components). The DRC processor doubles image resolution either spatialy for both axis (upscales image by 2, progressive signal ) or spatialy-temporaly (doubles horizontal resolution and fields number, interlaced signal).

Added: DNR is Sony's spatio-temporal filter. It works gently, so the most likely you will not see effect if input signal is clean enough.
See less See more
Fellow Ruby owners, I'd also like to hear your thoughts on this.


I'm currently awaiting my scaler and have run everything straight into my Ruby.


Dvd's look good running 480p into the Ruby and I really don't notice any artifacts. Just that I'm noticing a lot more grain to the picture that I had not noticed on my CRT. I'll see how my new scaler handles the deinterlacing and upscaling to 1080p for dvd's next week when it arrives.


As for HD from my Comcast box, I'm unsure what the problem is. I do see what looks like mpeg artifacts from time to time and I assume thats from the cable box. BUT I'm also moticed some unusual things and am unsure if this is typical of a digital pj.


First I noticed on SOME HD channels the appearance of dancing/shining pixels, expecially in areas of fine detail like a fine checkerboard pattern on someone suit (is this moire effect or line twitter?). It doesn't happen on all channels when similar objects are on screen. Could this be in the source? Could it be the cable box converting a native 720p signal to 1080i (my default output)? I've tried setting output to 720p but get similar results plus I assume my cable box's ability to deinterlace 1080i and output as 720p is limited.


Secondly, on a HDNET rerun of a tennis match (on all the time- Courier vs. Krickstein?), the courts diagonal lines are majorly staired stepped. Major jaggies. Again, same if I send the Ruby a 720p or 1080i signal. I don't remember jaggies to my CRT. So is the Ruby's deinterlacer responsible for this or is it the source or the STB. Without a scaler that does 1080i deinterlacing to compare I forced with feeding the Ruby my HD signals and letting it do all the work. Are the jaggies expected? Btw, on 1080i I've tried Film mode auto and off. No change.


Any thoughts?


Andy
See less See more
Andy, do you use DVI (or HDMI) for Ruby and component for CRT?

Added: Sorry, stupid question. Some of settings you mentioned are not shown for digital inputs on Ruby's menu as not applicable. So, the most likely you are using component in both cases.


IMHO, dancing pixels may be a result poor deinterlacing and/or debobbing (if internal scaler uses bob deinterlacing to double frame frequency to 60p for SXRD chips). As it depends on source, the most likely deinterlacing issues caused by quality of input signal. You may try to turn ON pre-processing (DNR and/or DRC) and play with DRC's "Reality"/"Clarity" settings.
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top