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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,


I am interested in getting 6 monoblocks that have the following specs. I would like to know if I can run them all on a single 15A (or 20A, for that matter) circuit. I currently live in an apt so I cannot alter the electrical layout of the apt. I am getting a great deal so would like to know if this is even feasible for my apt.


Output Power..........................300W (8Ohm), 600W (4Ohm)

Class-A Power........................100W (8Ohm)

Frequency Response..............5Hz - 40kHz (+/- 1dB)

Input Sensitivity......................1 V

THD..........................................≤ 0.01%

S/N Ratio.................................97 dB

Input Impedance.....................47kΩ

Dimension (WHD)...................17" x 7" x 21"

Weight....................................80 lbs


Thanks!
 

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Sure you can use them and even crank it up pretty good. However, if you try to use the full power of all amps at the same time (unlikely) you'd trip the circuit breaker (and probably go deaf doing it unless very inefficient speakers.


It's not ideal, but really should not be a "problem" unless you push them VERY hard which is probably not the case in an apartment.


A bigger issue may be the air conditioner. If these are biased into Class A up to 100 watts they are going to put out quite a bit of heat I'd think.
 

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Only if you plan on burning the place down for insurance money. My advice is one 20a line per two amps, which from your post you can't do because of the apt. situation. Now the reasons why are that the one 15a line will not only have to power your six amps but what ever it is already powering.


You are going to love your own home some day. I could just see you with separate 20a/10ga wire to each of those mono blocs.


I'm not even sure you could turn them all on without blowing the breaker.Good luck and look for a nice ATI 1506.It will power all your channels and hopefully you can turn it on without blowing the breakers.


KG
 

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To KG's point, you would have to turn them on one at a time.


Is the one 15 or 20 amp line for the WHOLE apartment, or just the circuit for the amps/stereo and perhaps a couple lights, etc??
 

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if all you have is that one 15amp circuit for everything - dishwasher, ac, refrigerator, microwave, lights, laundry, you will have some troubles most likely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
that 15A circuit will also house my plasma (~500W), subwoofer (~400W), preamp (~30W, I know, not recommended), lighting (maybe ~700W).


Will this work?
 

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Me think's I'll reconsider - you'll really be pushing it with all that on one 15A circuit. If the loads you say are true for the plasma, sub, lighting, etc, you are nearly to the capacity of 15A circuit without consideration of the amps.


Wow, a plasma takes 500 watts??


The sub probably does not take 400 watts all the time, but it's not always clear what level of playback that represents.


Then the lighting... you don't have 700 watts lighting load when using your HT do you??
 

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That is way too much stuff to have on just one 15 amp circuit. I hope the circuit breaker box is real close to where your seating position is, because you may be getting up quite a lot to reset the breaker.
 

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Do the math. Power = voltage * current.


A 15 amp circuit is good for a maximum of 15A * 120V = 1800W. You really aren't supposed to plan to use that much at one time. But the wiring, a circuit breaker or fuse in good condition, will we happy with that.


Add up the maximum input power rating of each device you will have running simultaneously (watts or VA) and you'll get an idea. As someone previously indicated, some devices will pull more than their normal operating current, and use more power, for a short time after they are turned on (anything with large capacitors in the power supply, CRTS, incandescent lamps, etc.). OTOH, most of the time when operating, most of the devices won't we sucking as much power as their rating indicates.


One thing to consider is that the more power you are using on the circuit, the greater the voltage drop. If your wiring is marginal, it may drop enough to cause things to not work properly. Not likely though, I think. Most electronics nowadays will work within a pretty wide range of nominal voltage what with solid state voltage regulators, switching power supplies, etc.
 

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The power consumption specs on the amp would have been all that was necessary to calculate this, but thats the one thing you didnt include....anything else is just a guess based on its output, which means its really a crapshoot...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know it's very unlikely that I should run all this on a single 15A circuit. But it's either that or shell out for a downgrade...


Just exploring worst/best case scenario, that's all. :)


Also, on the back of EACH amp, says "power consumption: 1000W". A bit ambiguous but I guess CCarncross hit the spot.


Thx to all for the advice.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HitoZen
that 15A circuit will also house my plasma (~500W), subwoofer (~400W), preamp (~30W, I know, not recommended), lighting (maybe ~700W).


Will this work?
No.


Add all those Ws (actually, the VA ratings on the back panel) , then multiply by 1.2 (for the 80% safe usage rate) and divide by 110. What's the number? I get 37.5A.
 

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I think people are being too quick to dismiss this.


Before I simplified to my current system, on a single 20 A circuit I had two 6-ch 130 W/ch power amps, a 1200 W power amp, 61" RPTV, pre/pro, tuner, VCR, DVD player, video processor, sat receiver, and 300 W of lighting, and I never tripped the breaker.


"To KG's point, you would have to turn them on one at a time."


Maybe, maybe not. If it does, a time-sequencing power strip would take care of it.


"Add up the maximum input power rating of each device you will have running simultaneously (watts or VA) and you'll get an idea."


That's way too conservative; only continuous test tones will draw maximum power.


The problem here, although it still may not be a showstopper, is the 100 W class A amps, which means a minimum of 600 W right there. I don't think you'd have a problem otherwise.


The only way to know for sure is to try it. Will you have return privileges on the amps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks all for the advice.


I've had the amps sitting there for over a year now, so definitely can't return. I've been shopping for a preamp this whole time, and have moved to an older apt in the meantime, hence this new concern about power handling.


My dilemma right now is that I've thought that the 6 amps will trip the circuit in the current apt, thereby I should look for a less powerful solution (been looking @ outlaw 770/990 combo).


Given that the min continuous load I'll draw is 100W x 6 amps = 600W, it's highly unlikely that I'll trip the circuit, yet concurrently I don't want to get the 770/990 combo (for the savings), test out the 990 preamp with my monoblocks, and if they work, return the 770 amp.


Is there anyway I can know with more certainty that my amps will overpower a 15A circuit?
 

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Also consider that the lighting at 700W continuous. You may usually use the system with the lights off, but you will sometimes want to use it with the lights on.


So that's 1300W on a 1650W leg, or 79% continuous. Right at the 80% safety load without anything else.


Any other legs you can steal from? Say, for the lights?
 

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How about replacing the lighting with compact flourescents at a fraction of the power consumption.


They're getting quite good at rendering a pleasant, natural looking light.
 

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all my equipment plugs into one 20a socket with everything running using a fluke amp clamp only drawing 9 to 10 amps and thats playing it loud.
 
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