i believe the PN50B530 is a series 5, not a series 3.
I used the calibration in the link below for a similar samsung plasma (B850), and the picture was WORLDS better! I'm not saying that this is the perfect calibration for all PN50B530's. All I'm saying is that in my living room, I feel that this was better than the out of the box settings.
If someone does get their PN50B530 calibrated professionally please share the settings!
side notes: I also have DirectTV HD DVR tuner. By default the tuner is set to a lower resolution (480p i believe) and dolby digital is turned off. go into the settings for the tuner and tell the tuner that your TV can support all resolutions. Also turn on dolby digital.
My PN50B530 showed up with a dead pixel. maybe its just a stuck pixel (i hope). i'm going to play with it a little when i get home. if i can't get it unstuck - i'm calling BB for an exchange!
awesome forum - my eyes are killing me from reading everything! GREAT INFO HERE!
The 800 series models are a different panel and firmware, the settings are going to be different. Anyway, few things I've found (not a professional, but I've done a ton of testing!):
Picture mode, color temp warm2: seems with Samsungs these are always the most accurate out-of-box setting.
HDMI Black level: this should be low, which means no processing of levels. Normal is meant for PCs, and thus will take 0-255 and compress it to 16-235, ie worth doing if you want to view pictures and anything else in the desktop - however Nvidia drivers will perform a compression for everything back to 16-235 if they detect a HDTV, and ATI will as well if you use a HDMI dongle and select RGB limited (so use low if your drivers are doing that). Note for almost all cable/bluray/dvd boxes this will be greyed out.
Black tone: this affects bottom end gamma. Possibly needed to get a flatter gamma curve, but the settings are a little interdependent so I haven't quite nailed it down. Use this and you'll definitely need -1 gamma and maybe -2, to shift the overall curve up.
Gamma: generally I find -1 was best, as after calibration this yields a nice 2.2ish. At 0, you end up with 2.05-2.10. The reason for zero being off like that is there's a 0.93 multiplier in the service menu for some reason.
Brightness/contrast/cell light: these are interdependent. With 7 cell light, I found brightness 56+contrast 95 worked well, ie still showed 1% black without full white going too bright (was around 38ftl). With cell 10, brightness 56+contrast 85 did basically the same thing.
Colour: red for me was a little high luminance, so knocking it down to 47/48 worked well.
Tint and white balance gains/offsets: Apparently each set is very roughly calibrated in the factory so these are different for each one (or maybe per batch), which is why every calibration review I've seen posted uses unique settings. Unfortunately, this area is also where the biggest improvement is to be made, but you really need a colorimeter to do it.
Digital NR: auto, or maybe off for HD.
Sharpening: I use 10 for SD sources, 0 for HD. Does depend how bad the source is though, and if it's been pre-sharpened as some bad SD channels are.
Nice set overall. After a little fiddling I have it at gamma 2.22 (perfect!), and greyscale down to average delta E of 1.60 or so. Still breakin period so no point getting it overly exact yet, but under 1.0 should be possible (I'll probably use an equaliser on the HTPC to get it bang on anyway). Still need to understand some service menu settings a bit better though, they're a little confusing.
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