[recruitman]

I have just purchased this DLP TV and love it!!!!


Just a few questions I was hoping you all could answer....


1. Even out of the box this looks great - I was wondering if there were any tweaks I should do right away...basically what adjustments do you think everyone are required to do????


2. Given the noise from the fan....is this something that you will always hear??? In the manual is says you will occasionally hear the fan cooling everything down. It's not a big deal....you can just hear it when the volume is really low.


Any help or suggestions that would make this TV look even better (not sure if it is possible) would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

 

[baja]

As for the fan, that is just par for the beast. If you do a search you will find more tweaks than you want to know about. If you feel you want to start tweaking your set just make sure you right down all your current settings. I will warn, once you start tweaking it becomes a never ending process. If you are happy out of the box.....ENJOY! If you really want it as good as it can get, you may want to consider an ISF calibration.

 

[skip_1961]

Recruitman, IMO, you should give it a few days to reach a more stable performance. After reading all these threads before I got my 46, I was primed to go into the Service Menu and start tweaking as soon as it came out of the box. I later decided that was a mistake.


I noticed that after 50 hours or so, the PQ seemed to improve. I ended up doing a "reset" back to factory settings and like the PQ much better.


Also, if you don't have a DVI source now, but plan to get one. I'd hold off making any adjustments until you can see the DVI PQ.


I do plan to have an IFS calibration done because I want the best possible PQ from all sources, but I think I'm chasing a 5-10% improvement at best.

 

[recruitman]

Thanks for the advice....


My main concern is watching standard cable. I am still waiting to get my HDTV box, so I am stuck watching normal cable until then.


I have purchased the AVIA disk, I am not sure if and when to use it though. I don't want to make any changes that are irreversible or can damage my set. I really am impressed with the PQ but I know it can get even better....

 

[dave99ag]

I've had my HLN467 for almost a month now. I too wanted to tweak away when I first got it I saw some improvements. I reset everything back to factory settings though and just played around with the User Menu.


I haven't checked how many hours I have on it now, but I'm sure it's well over 100 hours. The set's PQ seems to be getting better with time.


I'd recommend reading all you can about the set, but hold off on the tweaks for a bit. Let your TV break in some before going into the SM. I'm very happy with the UM settings so far.


My inputs are DVD w/ DVI and DirecTivo and I'm pleased with both pictures. Once the HD DirecTivo comes out, I may do some SM tweaking to get the best HD picture, but I don't think I'll need to.


First thing is to just enjoy your TV and not worry about the little things.

 

[surfnutbry]

Recruitman, I also have an HLN567W with Ver 309 Firmware purchased for Christmas. PQ right out of the box was not that great but it improved dramatically over time. My girlfriend is into digital photography and is able to spend hours and hours editing photos with photoshop. She has become extremely picky, to the point that I am not always able to see her improvements in the pictures. Anyway, the Sammy image seemed to have too much green and after spending all that money, I had lots of incentive to improve the picture. If you can wait to tweak your image that would be best. I needed to tweak our image to keep her happy. For a while, I was tweaking the image for every program we watched. We now have over 200 hours on the lamp and are extremely happy with the PQ and I am no longer tweaking the image. If you are interested, I can share my tweaks. I have not had the display analyzed for white balance. We used PQ of Faces in the Two Towers to set by eye what we thought looked the best. Then I balanced the RGB slopes by eye to produce an even gray scale on AVIA. I found left to right steps worked better than top to bottom steps because the display is less sensitive to horizontal viewing angle changes than vertical ones. Before I flattened the gray scale, the bright strips seemed blue and the dark strips seemed red. In general I found that this display requires a lot higher brightness setting than I would tolerate on a CRT display. If you set the brightness too dark then shadows get lost and red or green faces become more noticeable. I would highly recommend purchasing lights to shine on the wall behind the display. It makes the blacks look darker. This is something that you can do now to improve your picture. I do not have my settings in front of me now, but I will post them later. Good luck with your Sammy. If you ever check out your service mode I would love to know what your RGB gains and offsets are because I think we may have twin Sammy's and they seem to differ from the eeprom reset values.

 

[BillP]

I too was very happy with the 567W PQ out of the box, but used the AVIA disk to make some adjustments. There are 3 factory presets for contrast/brightness/sharpness/color (Dynamic, Standard, and Movie), as well as a Custom setting. Note that I was not able to make any difference in the picture by adjusting sharpness. Since I also did not want to ruin a great picture, I stuck with just the contrast/brightness/sharpness/color settings (I stayed out of the Service Menu) and made my adjustments to the Custom setting. This way, I kept the factory settings but can easily change between Dynamic, Standard, Movie, and Custom/AVIA (which turned out pretty close to the Movie setting), with the touch of one button on the remote, depending on the ambient light in the room. I find that Dynamic is needed if the room is very bright (I have a picture window behind the couch), Standard is generally fine during the day or if the lights are on in the room at night, and I like my Custom settings for at night (with the lights out).

 

[jayjay139]

Hi, hope this is on topic.

I am going to purchase the samsung hln5065W. I'm confident hd pq will be fine and Ill probably buy the avia just because. But what im most concerned about is watching sdt tv signal from my sat.

1)What can I expect?( currently directv with sony b2 receiver and s-vid to mitusbishi 36" crt (not flat) ).

2) What are the things I can do to optimize the non hd tv shows. (s.a. Do choice of hd receivers with dvi vs component significanly play into it?; brand,model?) How much difference will it make and is it at least as watchable (or better) than what I currently have?

thanks,

Jack

 

[sage540]

thanks.

 

[htwaits]

Quote:

Originally posted by sage540 thanks.

Find Samsung Firmware Version:


The firmware version installed on any set is recorded on the first page of the SM. There is a long ID number at the bottom of the page. The last three digits are the firmware version of your set.


Remember that in any dealing with Samsung you are not supposed to know your firmware version.

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:


Anyone using these suggestions should know that I am passing on the wisdom of others and that I have no personal knowledge of the Samsung DLP TVs. I'm still waiting.


On the other hand I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making changes.


****** Thanks to LCH for a clearer explanation than the one I wrote. 09/02/2003 ******


Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).


With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.

(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )


The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).


While in the service menu, you can change inputs with the TV/Video button to view the SM for other modes.


Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.


Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.


To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

 

[surfnutbry]

I mentioned earlier that I was going to post my tweaks for my HLN567W with Ver 309 firmware.

Delay 220

GAMMA 0

R_Gain 143

G_Gain 126

B_Gain 122

R_Offset 110

G_Offset 110

B_Offset 128

S_CT(DDP) 110

WBControl Off


After an eeprom reset these values become


Delay 223

GAMMA 4

R_Gain 120

G_Gain 120

B_Gain 120

R_Offset 128

G_Offset 128

B_Offset 128

S_CT(DDP) 123

WBControl On


I am not sure anymore what my factory RGB values were. If anyone out there has their factory RGB values for a HLN567W with Ver 309 firmware, I would love to compare them. If I was smart I would have taken a digital picture instead of writing them on a piece of paper that I now can't find.


Our other settings are:


Contrast 90

Brightness 50

Sharpness 50

Color 40

Tint 50

Film Mode Off

DNIe On

Digital NR On

 

[DannyBaker]

Quote:

Originally posted by surfnutbry Film Mode Off

Whoa, Film Mode off? Why?!?!??! This should absolutely be on. It engages the 3:2 pulldown processing.


Regardless, I just calibrated an HLN467W this evening, with v. 309 firmware. While every set is slightly different, I can only say that your RGB values are off. From those settings, I would imagine you still have the grayscale tracking skewed way toward blue.


Just my $0.02.

 

[jimbo38]

I have the hln567 and it is supercalafradulisticexbealidosous and you know what, as the electronics burn in, it gets even better 100-200 hours.

SD tv looks better straight off the coaxle, no box.

Stay out of the service menu until the set s broke-in, because after that you won't need the service menu.

Turn down the contrast 93, bright 50ish color 45-50ish

And when you see your first HD discovery channel make sure you are sitting down, so you don't fall down.

Cheers

Jim

 

[zeicht]

Quote:

Originally posted by recruitman Thanks for the advice.... My main concern is watching standard cable. I am still waiting to get my HDTV box, so I am stuck watching normal cable until then. I have purchased the AVIA disk, I am not sure if and when to use it though. I don't want to make any changes that are irreversible or can damage my set. I really am impressed with the PQ but I know it can get even better....

hi recruitman, just wondering if the HLN567W's picture quality is good with regular digital source (non-HD)....... im getting the HLN567W soon and opting for a PRV since recording shows is a must for me....meaning no HD and that worries me...is the picture quality great so far?

 

[recruitman]

I would say about 90% of the channels look good, some of the channels don't. I have compared those channels that don't look good on my regular TV and they are about equal.


I am getting HDTV today, but in the store it looked amazing. As for DVD'd I have it hooked up through component cables and it too looks amazing!! That is right out of the box with no tweaking at all!!.


I have only had it for a few days and do not regret my purchase at all...It seems to get better all the time....


I hope that helps...

 

[surfnutbry]

Quote:

Originally posted by DannyBaker Whoa, Film Mode off? Why?!?!??! This should absolutely be on. It engages the 3:2 pulldown processing. Regardless, I just calibrated an HLN467W this evening, with v. 309 firmware. While every set is slightly different, I can only say that your RGB values are off. From those settings, I would imagine you still have the grayscale tracking skewed way toward blue. Just my $0.02.

Thanks for the input.


I will change the Film Mode setting.


As far as the grayscale being shifted to the blue, I am sure that you are correct. I may have to rent some equipment or have an ISF calibration performed to have a 6500K white point. The white point was chosen purely by our aesthetic preference which may be much cooler than standard.


Could you be so kind as to tell me what equipment you are using to do grayscale calibrations on DLP TV's?


Thanks again

 

[mickey RN]

This is info from the Unofficial Guide to HLN DLP which is located somewhere on this forum. It was posted by Arun Gupta. I don't have a new TV, yet! But, this little document has had some pretty interesting things to say

Break-In Period

Break in the lamp with 100 hours use before adjusting User Menu and Service Menu.


if you don't find the Doc, email me and I'll send it to you.

 

[htwaits]

Quote:

Originally posted by mickey RN This is info from the Unofficial Guide to HLN DLP which is located somewhere on this forum. ... if you don't find the Doc, email me and I'll send it to you.

Just click on the "Popular" link at the bottom of my massage and go to the Samsung section.

 

[thm33]

Surfnutbry wrote:


I mentioned earlier that I was going to post my tweaks for my HLN567W with Ver 309 firmware.

Delay 220

GAMMA 0

R_Gain 143

G_Gain 126

B_Gain 122

R_Offset 110

G_Offset 110

B_Offset 128

S_CT(DDP) 110

WBControl Off


After an eeprom reset these values become


Delay 223

GAMMA 4

R_Gain 120

G_Gain 120

B_Gain 120

R_Offset 128

G_Offset 128

B_Offset 128

S_CT(DDP) 123

WBControl On


I am not sure anymore what my factory RGB values were. If anyone out there has their factory RGB values for a HLN567W with Ver 309 firmware, I would love to compare them. If I was smart I would have taken a digital picture instead of writing them on a piece of paper that I now can't find.


Our other settings are:


Contrast 90

Brightness 50

Sharpness 50

Color 40

Tint 50

Film Mode Off

DNIe On

Digital NR On


Surfnutbry,


I have the 43" Samsung with the 309 chip. I did take down my factory settings.. Not 100% sure it will help since it is the smaller screen size, but here you go.


How do you feel about those changed above? Have you made any changes since that post?

 

television settings.zip 3.5166015625k . file

 

[surfnutbry]

Thanks for posting your settings. They are very close to what mine used to be.


I have done a lot of research and tweaking since my last posting, but I am not ready to post them yet. I did turn on the film mode but I can't say that I noticed a lot of difference. After DannyBaker pointed out that my gray scale was too blue, I started doing research on the subject. I am a scientist by trade and have a lot of experience with designing medical diagnostic sticks using fluorescence and chemiluminescence. From what I can tell DannyBaker was correct and my TV was too blue. I am not sure yet exactly what 6500K looks like but hopefully this week that will change. I currently own a photo-gray card that if I am able to shine a certified 6500K light onto it then I will have my reference. Monday an Ideal_Lume from CinemaQuest should be arriving. The light source uses a 6500K lamp with an CRI rating of 98%. My ViewSonic CRT computer monitor also has a 6500K setting but I am not sure how accurate it is. I also have a ColorVision SpiderPro on order to calibrate my computer monitor. In the mean time I used my Computer monitor to calibrate the gray scale on my DLP. I moved the computer and monitor next to the DLP and used a number of gray images to compare to a gray-scale from AVIA. After lots of switching from bright to dark images and tweaking the RGB gains and offsets, I was able to get them both to track together. I suspect that the gray scale may be too warm now but I will resolve this soon enough. Next I went on to try and balance the colors or the variations from gray. Near as I can tell the original Sammy calibration has too cool of a white point and to compensate for this red and green variations from gray are too strong compared to the blue. Now as it turns out, my earlier tweaking was an attempt to tone down the red green dominance with an even bluer image. With the warmer image I think that this Red Green dominance is even more noticeable. The work around for my composite input involves adjusting the Blue and Red saturation levels (satcb_m and satcr_m). They are a little tricky to set because they both contribute to the green saturation. To correct my image I increased the blue saturation. I now really enjoy the image from my DVD and am confident that it will only look better when I get a more accurate 6500K gray-scale. The problem that I am having now is how to correct my S-video and antenna image. The menu for these inputs lack blue and red saturation levels. They have color saturation and tint settings. Color saturation effects all of the colors and tint moves the image from green to red. My problem is not enough blue and I have not figured out how to fix that. If any one knows the answer to this I would love to know. Blue saturation changes to the Faroudja menu seem to affect the gray scale in addition to the blue saturation. Hopefully this is fixable and accessible from the service menu. It could be that it is hardwired this way and unfix-able. I hope that this is not the case. By the way the simplest way to tweak your display is to have an ISF professional do it for you, but personally I am having too much fun learning about color calibration and my Sammy. I will keep you posted on my progress.


Thanks again for the settings.


I would love to know how much variation exists in the factory settings (+-2,+-3,+-4, etc). If we knew that then we would know how similar the factory considers our Sammys. It is possible that we have more variation than Samsung takes into account. I also wonder how much variation exist between bulbs. Imagine tweaking your Sammy for a bulb that burns out then replacing it with a bulb from a different lot that has noticeably different light characteristics.