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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my 3 year old Samsung DLP has been turning off randomly for the past couple of months. I assumed it was some sort of overheating. This last time it turned off, then wouldn't turn back on. When I tried to turn it back on, it would make a sort of buzzing noise like it's trying to start up, then it would slow down, then try starting up again, then slow down, etc. for about 5 minutes. When it turns off, it'll flash "Lamp", and "Standby/Temp".


Actually, I just tried it again, and it started up. I'm sure it will happen again soon though. I just am not sure what the problem is. Yup, just went off again. Would a bad color wheel make it turn off randomly? If it's the lamp, I figured if the lamp went, it would make a popping noise and just never turn back on. Any thoughts?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A bad lamp would make it turn off by itself? Even if the lamp still lights up? I thought if it was the lamp, you would hear a "pop" and the lamp would be dead?


I just don't want to spend hundreds of dollars replacing things if it's not going to work.
 

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Sure it can. Sooner or later you WILL need a lamp. Just as example five hours/day for three years is like 5500hrs. Lamp life can vary widely but mostly we see 4000-6000hrs is the failing time. Some much longer, some even sooner.


You could also check the ballast for a bad capacitor. See this thread .
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update: Now what's happening is this: When I press the power button, the lamp no longer turns on. I just hear a whizzing noise like a fan starting up, then after a few seconds, a sound like it's shutting down (kinda like a circular saw), then it will try starting up again, then shut down again. It will do that about 5 times, then there will be two clicks, and it will start the same process over again. It will run through that process about 5 times as well (whizzing start up, shut down sound like circular saw, whizzing again, shut down again.. etc, two clicks) until it finally just gives up.


The noise isn't from the fan that you can see when you take the back panel off. I stopped that to make sure it wasn't it. It sounds like it's coming from behind that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK, I've just uploaded a video to YouTube. Here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWFOtbykQYA


The vid doesn't show a whole lot, but I just made it so you could hear the noises it's making. I stop the fan part way through the vid just to show that the fan's not making the noise. And when the video pans to the right, I'm just showing where the clicking noise is coming from. If you could take a listen to the vid, maybe it will help to diagnose the problem better. Thank you. Oh, if the vid doesn't come up for any reason, or if I can't link to YouTube, I tagged the video with my username- Jephph, as well as Samsung, HLR5667WAX/XAA, Noises, Broken, TV, Bad. So you can probably just search those on YouTube. Thanks.
 

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That noise is the colorwheel. It's hard to tell from the video if it is defective or not. You could pull the light engine, remove the colorwheel, and spin it by hand to check for resistance or bearing noise. The tiny four pin connector is VERY easy to mess up. Do not just pull on it, use a tiny flatblade screwdriver to gently pry while pulling.


I don't hear the ballast trying to fire, just the colorwheel repeatedly spinning up/down. So either it's not getting to full speed allowing ballast turn on signal, or the dmd is incorrectly shutting the colorwheel down, which could be defective dmd.


You could check the voltages on the ballast. Put meter across the big two pin connector you should get large dc voltage like 200v. There is also a tiny four pin connector that should get a 5v turn on between one of the pins and chasis ground.


At this point you could try these- lamp $150, colorwheel $115, and ballast $65. encompassparts.com login as guest search model
 

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Just change the lamp like you were told earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hahaha. Yeah, I love fixing things that aren't broken. And I love wasting money. Sure, the lamp probably needs replacing pretty soon. But that won't make my color wheel any happier now will it? The intention of the post was not to get people to tell me that I need a new lamp, it was to diagnose why my TV wasn't turning on. Thanks for the pointless post though. Have a nice day
 

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It likely is not turning on because the lamp is not lighting. The color wheel has to spin up before it will try to start the lamp on every DLP set ever made. If you hear it start, and you hear the clicking of the ballast firing, you most likely have a bad lamp. You can replace it for around $100 if you are willing to change out the lamp and reuse the original housing.


The first step that any servicer who knows what he is doing tries on a set like this is a new lamp. With your symptoms, it fixes the vast majority of them. The fact that you would get a pix and then it would shut off tells you that the CW and ballast are likely fine. You could look for swollen caps in the PS and ballast, which can sometimes complicate these repairs, but my guess would be that you need a lamp. You could also have a an intermittent connection or a bad digital board, but again, a lamp is far more likely. I have repaired dozens of these sets and many more of various DLP brands and models and seen your scenario many times. Lamps will sometimes work for a while and then shut down.


As hammer said, the lamp is the first step.
 
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