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Hi all. This might be helpful for some that have bass issues. It help me and my bass is a lot better than it was. Still not great but definitely better.

Samsung Soundbar with Dolby Atmos® technology suggested setup
Recommended speaker layout
Samsung Soundbar with Dolby Atmos technology delivers cinematic sound that you feel from all around and overhead. To get the best results from your soundbar system, we’ve provided the following recommendations for your home theater setup.
Recommended room dimensions
• Suggested ceiling height: 9–12 feet (2.7–3.6 meters)
• Minimum ceiling height: 7.5 feet (2.3 meters)
• Maximum ceiling height: 14 feet (4.3 meters)
• Ceiling should be flat and constructed with acoustically reflective materials.* *These materials include drywall, plaster, hardwood and other rigid, non-sound absorbing material.
Recommended speaker placement
• Floor (listener plane) speaker height/soundbar height should be at your ear level when seated, typically 3.9 feet (1.2 meters) from the floor.
• Subwoofer should be on the left side, slightly in front of the soundbar. Pair subwoofer and surround speakers as part of your initial setup.
• Surround speakers should be approximately 3.3 feet (1 meter) behind the listener, 90–110 degrees from the center of the room.
• Speakers/soundbars with Dolby Atmos-enabled speaker elements should be placed so an upward-firing driver is no lower than ear level and no higher than halfway up the wall. Ensure nothing blocks the audio path of these upward-firing elements.
Speaker connectivity
• Dolby Atmos sound can only be decoded via HDMI at the TV side. Use HDMI with ARC to connect. • Blu-Ray player needs to be connected to the soundbar and the settings
should be changed via the following steps: Blu-Ray Player Settings Menu > Sound > Digital Output > Bitstream (unprocessed).
TV

Main Unit
Subwoofer

90°
Surround Speaker L
110°
110°
90°
Surround Speaker R
© 2016 Samsung Electronics America, Inc. Samsung is a trademark of Samsung Electronics Co., Ltd. Dolby and Dolby Atmos are trademarks of Dolby Laboratories. Other company names, product names and marks mentioned herein are the property of their respective owners and may be trademarks or registered trademarks. Printed in U.S.A.
Hmmm.... the ceiling in my man cave is 8ft high and I have the up-firing speakers on the soundbar set at +6. Since I am close to the minimum suggested height, this has got me thinking that higher volume doesn't necessarily mean better Atmos effect . Time to play around with the height volume.
 

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Don’t remember. The model was SB4251. Absurd I can’t even tell the Samsung sub is even on half the time.
Then there is a defect, setting or signal issue. Again here is mine in a high ceiling, open room and it sounds fine.

Have you tried it with a ripped mkv? Usually better bass than streaming.
I have LG UBK90 4K Blu-Ray Player connected directly through HDMI. It sounds no different than streaming 4K movies BASS wise.

When you watch TV (live) do you notice bass during shows (action shows The flash, Arrow e or similar). Like I said Vizio always had bass during the shows but Samsung never. I only can tell there is bass from Soundbar itself.
 

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I'm having a problem and I'm not sure if it's the N950 or the ATV4K.

My ATV4K used to show Atmos as being available on Netflix and Amazon movies and shows that had it available (like Lost in Space).

Now it doesn't - it shows 5.1. Dolby Vision is available though.

The ATV4K is hooked up to my N950 with a Monoprice certified cable, and the N950 is hooked up to the TV with the same kind of cable.

Atmos is enabled on the ATV4K. I have the latest firmware on the N950.

I was thinking that maybe for some reason the N950 isn't telling the ATV that it is Atmos capable.

Has anyone else had this issue?
 

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I'm having a problem and I'm not sure if it's the N950 or the ATV4K.

My ATV4K used to show Atmos as being available on Netflix and Amazon movies and shows that had it available (like Lost in Space).

Now it doesn't - it shows 5.1. Dolby Vision is available though.

The ATV4K is hooked up to my N950 with a Monoprice certified cable, and the N950 is hooked up to the TV with the same kind of cable.

Atmos is enabled on the ATV4K. I have the latest firmware on the N950.

I was thinking that maybe for some reason the N950 isn't telling the ATV that it is Atmos capable.

Has anyone else had this issue?
Check your settings again? Sometimes things get turned off for whatever reason. On your Apple TV 4K, go to Settings > Video and Audio and select Audio Format. Under Atmospheric Audio, check that Dolby Atmos is on. Or a restart/reset? Other than that I'm not sure what to tell you, but if you used to get it before it sounds like it should be an easy fix and hopefully shouldn't be the soundbar
 

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My Samsung HW-N960 will be arriving today. I'm trying to somewhat prepare to replace my current setup with Sonos Play Base + Sonos Play Sub + 2x Sonos One's. First thing would be to update the firmware, but it seems like this can only be done through a Samsung Smart Things app on iOS? There is no way to manually download and update using USB?

In terms of placement why would it be preferable to have the subwoofer on the left side as compared to the right side? I currently have my Sonos Play Sub on the right side of my AV-rack and there is not enough room to have it on the left side.. How about other things in terms of placement? How much air/space should it have on each side? The exhaust seems to be located at the back so I suppose it's the distance from the back to the wall that will be the most important one in terms of performance?

Recommended ceiling height seems rather excessive? Is it normal to have 2.7–3.6 meter high ceilings? Mine is approximately 2.3 meters so I'm just within the minimum requirements.. They recommend to have the surround speakers no lower than ear height, but as my ceiling is already at the minimum requirement shouldn't I be aiming at not having the surround speakers too high? Currently we have the Sonos One's about 1 meter behind the sofa, but it's slightly lower than ear height.

Same goes for the soundbar itself, how are you supposed to have it on ear level? That would require me to mount the TV (65-inch) too high on the wall. The soundbar has to be slightly below ear height as the bottom of the TV won't allow for anything different. It's either slightly below, or way above (mounting it about the TV, which would be stupid for atmos as the soundbar would be looked too close to the ceiling).


From what I understand there is no "automagic" with this soundbar. So all speaker levels will have to be tuned manually. I don't mind this all that much, the auto-tune on the Sonos and the auto-tune on my previous Yamaha RX-V3900 didn't impress me all that much. It might be because I tend to prefer "overtuned" surround speakers. I tend to always boost them by a lot to get them within my liking. It might be my bad hearing, but all auto tuned levels make all speakers but the centre too low for my liking so I can barely tell or hear any of the surround effects. It might also be due to how the dynamic range tend to work, with a wide dynamic range it will normally require a decent volume level for the dynamics to really kick in. My wife don't like the volume too loud so we need to tune in a way where the surround details are still noticeable even when to listening to proper volume levels.

Are you able to tune the atmos/up-firing part of the soundbar and surround speakers separately? Or are they simply a part of the overall speaker level?


When it comes to the inputs I suppose it's best to use the 2x HDMI inputs on the soundbar for devices that supports HD-formats like Dolby True HD and DTS: MA and use ARC through the TV for anything else that will normally utilise Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, DTS og lossy Dolby Atmos? Is there any added input-lag for gaming, or any lipsync issues when connecting directly to the soundbar instead of directly to the TV? Do ARC bring any audio sync issues?
 

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I have LG UBK90 4K Blu-Ray Player connected directly through HDMI. It sounds no different than streaming 4K movies BASS wise.

When you watch TV (live) do you notice bass during shows (action shows The flash, Arrow e or similar). Like I said Vizio always had bass during the shows but Samsung never. I only can tell there is bass from Soundbar itself.
I looks like that Vizio SB4251 5.1 soundbar cost about $170. I would not be surprised it if put out muddled reverb bass making it seem like a lot. Again I would look for settings, placement or signal issues with the N950.
 

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Question: I have the K950...would like to upgrade to N...If I get the N850...will it pair with the back speakers from the K950?? just looking to save some money..
 

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Question: I have the K950...would like to upgrade to N...If I get the N850...will it pair with the back speakers from the K950?? just looking to save some money..
The firmware is different, the 850 is not capable of running the 950's rears.
 

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Question: I have the K950...would like to upgrade to N...If I get the N850...will it pair with the back speakers from the K950?? just looking to save some money..
If you have access to a .edu email address you can get the 950 at the same cost as the 850 from shop Samsung this week.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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My guess and only a guess would be e-arc that would be a big one I any case I am truly happy with the n-950 and plan on keeping it. At 77 yo I think I am finished upgrading. Keeping what I have until it or I die.
You sold me on buying one. I got an education discount and Super Bowl discount. Selling my K950 for more than I paid.

If you say you love it, I know it must be good, I remember you were quite active on the K950 thread.

Question for anyone with the ATV 4K. Does the Atmos LPCM stream decode well on the N950? I have an LG B7, ATV 4k, Xbox One X and TiVo Roamio. My thought is to connect the ATV and Xbox to the internal HDMI ports on the N950, then the Roamio to the LG and use ARC only for the Roamio, which is only DD. That way the two Atmos sources are in the sound bar directly

The N950 ships on Feb 15, so a couple of weeks to wait. Hoping this finally solves my issues with the Dolby Vision and splitting audio and video, Atmos over ARC, etc. I don't use the LG apps for anything.

Anyone with a similar setup got any tips?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Then there is a defect, setting or signal issue. Again here is mine in a high ceiling, open room and it sounds fine.

Have you tried it with a ripped mkv? Usually better bass than streaming.
I have tried many sources, from ATMOS Blu-Ray to Fire TV streaming to native app streaming of Netflix, connected directly to Soundbar. All similar levels of bass output. As I said before, bass is there, but quiet. My room is small, so volume of 18 on the Soundbar is quite loud. I did try turning up to 40 to see if the bass came in, and it was better. It seems like the levels at low volume are not scaling appropriately. I have moved the subwoofer to many locations in the room, only minor changes of loudness, none making the bass "alive" as others have noted. Possible this is somehow defective and I should pursue with Samsung?
 

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So I've got my Samsung HW-N960 installed, can't really test much as it's too late so everyone is a sleep. First impression are somewhat mixed. I got it updated and everything but it seems to be struggling somewhat with the auto switching on the Apple TV 4K, and it doesn't seem to be all that happy about Dolby Vision at 60Hz if I decide to run my Apple TV 4K as Dolby Vision 60Hz the image would go all crazy after a few minutes and I had to turn it off and on again.

Things are noticeably slower in terms of input switching when using the Samsung HW-N960 as compared to my Sonos Play Base using optical. HDMI CEC seems to be working so no need to program my LG Magic Remote or my Apple TV Remote, it just works and power state's seems to be syncing as well. But starting my Apple TV 4K takes a while longer compared to having it connected directly to my LG OLED C7V. The soundbar is slower to start and even after it looks to be finished powering on it's a noticeable delay before anything shows on the TV. Not a huge issue, but something I need to get used to.

The most annoying part about waking everything by clicking the Apple TV Remote which is the way we normally start the TV 99 out of 100 times is how the soundbar defaults to HDMI ARC even when it's the Apple TV that is powering everything on using HDMI CEC. I have to click the Apple TV Remote once more after the soundbar has powered on for it to go from HDMI ARC to HDMI1 switch is where my Apple TV 4K is connected.


Can't say anything in terms of audio until I can test at higher volume levels tomorrow. I will have to test this 4K Dolby Vision 60Hz more tomorrow to see if was a glitch or whether it's going to be returning issue. No video are actually playing back in 4K, Dolby Vision, 60Hz so it would only deny me from running the Apple TV menus at 4K, Dolby Vision, 60Hz which I don't tend to do as I find it overly bright and aggressive so I tend to keep it at 4K, SDR, 60Hz and let the auto switching do the rest and 4K, SDR, 60Hz at 4:4:4 seems to be doing just fine.

When starting playback of any content that will trigger auto switching, like playing back anything in HDR there seems to be something going on that makes thing lag somewhat compared to when I had the Apple TV 4K connected directly to the TV. The Apple TV 4K is doing the switching, and my LG OLED C7V is showing the HDR/Dolby Vision message telling me that it has switched profiles, but then it goes black for a split second before displaying the HDR/Dolby Vision message once more. It didn't do that before. But as long as it ends up working it's not an issue.

But I've had some quirks when leaving HDR playback in Infuse on my Apple TV 4K. Everything works as intended, the auto switching kicks inn and the movie starts playing and everything is behaving as intended. But upon leaving the video and when the Apple TV is doing the auto switching back to Non-HDR the soundbar seems to get confused and I'm left with a black screen but I'm still having audio from the menus so the soundbar is playing back my audio but there is nothing on the screen. If I use the Samsung Remote to cycle through the inputs I get image on the TV when I get back to HDMI1. There is clearly something going on here, it doesn't seem to like the auto switching for some reason.


But I'll need to do some more testing tomorrow. Controlling the various audio levels was really easy. I'm not entirely sure what "SYNC" means, I can adjust this as every other volume levels from -6 to +6 but I have no clue what this option means and the manual does a terrible job at explaining it. It doesn't really tell me what Virtual off/on means either? Going from Standard to Surround is supposed to do stereo to surround upmixing, so what exactly is virtual on supposed to provide? Is it supposed to provide a virtualisation of object based audio, trying to make non object based playback into Dolby Atmos / DTS:X? As the surround mode is supposed to give you upmixed/virtual "flat" surround?


I'm somewhat disappointed that HDMI ARC and HDMI CEC is not capable of providing any volume information/levels on the actual TV? I knew that my Sonos Play Base using optical could not provide such information as optical is used purely for audio. But with the Samsung HW-N960 connected through HDMI ARC I expected there to be a better integration as this is specifically used for audio over HDMI I expected the soundbar to be capable of providing my TV with volume level information so I didn't have to look at the soundbar small info display to see it.


It's also rather annoying that in order to get Dolby Atmos working on the Apple TV it has to disable bitstreaming altogether. This has nothing to do with the soundbar, but the info display won't ever show Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, DTS or anything other than Dolby Atmos as everything else is using PCM or LPCM. Why Apple forces you to use PCM/LPCM+Dolby Atmos or Dolby Digital/Dolby Digital Plus + No Dolby Atmos is beyond me. Doesn't really matter as you shouldn't loose any audio quality as the Apple TV supports full 7.1 LPCM so it simply doing the decoding beforehand, but it makes it impossible to use the info display on the soundbar to verify what kind of audio that is currently being used.


EDIT:

Another issue that I will need to investigate is how there seems to be a slight AV off-sync when playing back HDR content on Plex and Infuse, but there is no such slight AV off-sync while playing non-HDR. Need to investigate further but that might be impossible to solve as there is no way to do lipsync for HDR-only.
 

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Did some more testing today. Will still have to use it for our daily watching before concluding with anything. My Apple TV 4K's auto switching it' still making it freak-out somewhat but it manages to keep going, you just keep getting some additional black screens whenever it does the auto-switching.

I still can't figure out what the virtual on/off setting actually does. I've tried to enable it and it doesn't seem to run any kind of object-based/Atmos virtualisation on the audio, and it doesn't seem to run any sort of surround upmixing/virtualisation either. In order to get that I have to switch from Standard or Smart into Surround for the soundbars mode.

I'm also having some trouble adjusting the volume levels. I can boost the upfiring speakers, but the front ones and the rear ones as well as boost the sidefiring and the "front" firing rears. But I'm struggling with some clear loss of detail on the centre/front. Take the intro of Game of Thrones for instance, each time you get the swiping/high-pitched audio effect it sounds really low on the soundbar. That details is being completely overrun by all the audio audio coming from the front/centre and it doesn't seem like there is a way to adjust it?

With the Sonos Playbase and Playbar those details are coming off clear as day, while this soundbar they come off as really muddied.

I'm currently running the subwoofer on the left side with +4 on the volume and I can barely tell that it's there.
 

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It seems like my feeling of loss in the details are related to the fact that the Samsung HW-N950/960 does not seem to have any kind of loudness EQ / Dynamic Range Compression options. If I turn off loudness EQ on my Sonos they sound much more alike. DRC/Loudness is a hot topic as it alters the audio but personally, especially during normal listening which often happens on non ideal volume levels is does help a lot in terms of bringing out higher and lower details. Without DRC/Loudness EQ I feel like movies and TV-Shows have been designed for you to have some really high volume levels for the dynamic to really kick in so I prefer to lower the dynamic range in order to achieve some of the dynamics at lower volumes.

The Samsung HW-K950/960 had DRC so I'm not entirely sure what it's not available on the HW-N950/960.
 

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Did some more testing today. Will still have to use it for our daily watching before concluding with anything. My Apple TV 4K's auto switching it' still making it freak-out somewhat but it manages to keep going, you just keep getting some additional black screens whenever it does the auto-switching.

I still can't figure out what the virtual on/off setting actually does. I've tried to enable it and it doesn't seem to run any kind of object-based/Atmos virtualisation on the audio, and it doesn't seem to run any sort of surround upmixing/virtualisation either. In order to get that I have to switch from Standard or Smart into Surround for the soundbars mode.

I'm also having some trouble adjusting the volume levels. I can boost the upfiring speakers, but the front ones and the rear ones as well as boost the sidefiring and the "front" firing rears. But I'm struggling with some clear loss of detail on the centre/front. Take the intro of Game of Thrones for instance, each time you get the swiping/high-pitched audio effect it sounds really low on the soundbar. That details is being completely overrun by all the audio audio coming from the front/centre and it doesn't seem like there is a way to adjust it?

With the Sonos Playbase and Playbar those details are coming off clear as day, while this soundbar they come off as really muddied.

I'm currently running the subwoofer on the left side with +4 on the volume and I can barely tell that it's there.
Try running the Apple TV into the TV first then ARC out of the TV to the ARC port on the soundbar. I have never had any issues with that setup and you will still get (lossy) ATMOS. That is if your TV supports ATMOS over ARC.

What level do you have your "center level" speakers set at? It's too late now but I would have suggested you try the system out with the factory firmware first, before updating the firmware. It has caused various issues for some.
 

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It seems like my feeling of loss in the details are related to the fact that the Samsung HW-N950/960 does not seem to have any kind of loudness EQ / Dynamic Range Compression options. If I turn off loudness EQ on my Sonos they sound much more alike. DRC/Loudness is a hot topic as it alters the audio but personally, especially during normal listening which often happens on non ideal volume levels is does help a lot in terms of bringing out higher and lower details. Without DRC/Loudness EQ I feel like movies and TV-Shows have been designed for you to have some really high volume levels for the dynamic to really kick in so I prefer to lower the dynamic range in order to achieve some of the dynamics at lower volumes.



The Samsung HW-K950/960 had DRC so I'm not entirely sure what it's not available on the HW-N950/960.
Are you using the Smart Things app? It's my understanding that has the more complete EQ.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Try running the Apple TV into the TV first then ARC out of the TV to the ARC port on the soundbar. I have never had any issues with that setup and you will still get (lossy) ATMOS. That is if your TV supports ATMOS over ARC.

What level do you have your "center level" speakers set at? It's too late now but I would have suggested you try the system out with the factory firmware first, before updating the firmware. It has caused various issues for some.
I think my LG OLED65C7V is supposed to support Dolby Atmos (DD+/Lossy version) over ARC but it's not working using the built-in Netflix app and I've read numerous people having similar issues online.

I would loose out on HD-formats completely by going through the TV over ARC. With the Apple TV 4K connected directly to the soundbar I get Dolby True HD and DTS: Master Audio decoded into LPCM when using Infuse. This won't be possible over ARC as ARC does not support lossless formats at all, you'll need eARC and HDMI2.1 for this and that's only available on the newly announced LG 9-series for OLED's and the Samsung HW-N960 does not have eARC/HDMI2.1 so it wouldn't work even with support on the TV.

According to LG themselves both my LG OLED 6-series in the bedroom and my LG OLED 7-series in the living room are all limited to Dolby Digital (AC-3) and DTS.

If you playback anything in MPEG it will be decoded into PCM. If you playback Dolby Digital it will bitstream as Dolby Digital, if you playback Dolby Digital Plus (eAC-3) it will be decoded into Dolby Digital (AC-3) and not be kept as Dolby Digital Plus (eAC-3) and if I playback HE-AAC it will be decoded into Dolby Digital (AC-3). DTS will be bitstreaming as DTS or decoded into PCM depending on the amount of channels. DTS Express will be decoded into PCM. Dolby True HD will be decoded into Dolby Digital or PCM and DTS: Master Audio will be decoded into DTS or PCM.

This is when you select "Auto" mode for ARC. You can enforce "PCM Mode" which basically will decode everything into PCM and do no bitstreaming.


My LG OLED 6-series does not support Dolby Atmos over ARC, and my LG OLED 7-series supports it in it's lossy form (using Dolby Digital Plus + Atmos information as a part of Dolby MAT 2.0 or whatever they are calling it providing the regular DD+ soundtrack + Atmos metadata on-top for the soundbar to handle).


I don't think this has much to do with LG to be honest, these are all limitations of ARC which isn't all that great. This is why eARC is such a needed improvement, but sadly I won't replace my TV's any time soon so I won't be getting eARC for years to come. Getting a new soundbar with HDMI2.1 and eARC won't help me one bit as you need it supported in both ends.


I can't confirm or verify whether ARC/my LG OLED-TV is doing any kind of down-mixing when decoding from various formats such as Dolby Digital Plus into Dolby Digital, Dolby True HD into PCM, DTS: MA into PCM etc.. As I have yet to test it much and there is no real indication on the Samsung HW-N960 telling me the amount of channels that is being fed over LPCM and PCM. When getting audio over LPCM or PCM it doesn't really tell you anything at all.



This is why I prefer to have both my Apple TV 4K and my Xbox One X connected directly as this will ensure that I can get the full LPCM 7.1 when playing back Dolby True HD or DTS: Master Audio within Infuse on my Apple TV 4K or when playing back anything that supports Dolby True HD or lossless Dolby Atmos on the Xbox One X it won't be lost due to the limitations of ARC.


Are you using the Smart Things app? It's my understanding that has the more complete EQ.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

You have a more advanced EQ within the app. You can also access this directly on the soundbar by holding down the settings-icon for 5 seconds. But it's really hard, if not impossible to resemble DRC (Dynamic Range Compression) using a EQ meters. DRC is supposed to compress the dynamic range across the board which is well suited for lower volume levels at it helps you reaching deep and high even when your lower decibel would otherwise restrict/limit you from reaching these dynamics in the sound-field.

EQ only lets you alter various frequencies responses, so you can increase or degrees various portion of the sound signature to accommodate your preferences. But it won't compress the dynamic range to be more suited for your volume levels.


What's strange to me is how the Samsung HW-K950/960 had several levels of DRC which you can activate, while the Samsung HW-N950/960 lack these options entirely.
 
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