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Genuinely feel for you N950 people. this is NOT a salt in wounds post.
As a Q90r owner I am pleasantly surprised an eARC actually arrived, although my 2017 Q8 cant take advantage of it. I am even more surprised at the arrival of the update being a previous K950 and KS7000 owner (promised HDR10+ in the release blurb that never actually arrived and RS agreed on the Q8 replacement).
Even if the eARC update hadn't arrived. Secretly I would still be very happy with the performance of the Q90r under the direct connection caveat.
I have learned with Samsung, only buy a product on what it does at the time of purchase.
Not excusing Samsung in any way, who deserve all the loss of customer confidence they incur, the n950 and q90r are still premier league sounding bars.
 

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Genuinely feel for you N950 people. this is NOT a salt in wounds post.
As a Q90r owner I am pleasantly surprised an eARC actually arrived, although my 2017 Q8 cant take advantage of it. I am even more surprised at the arrival of the update being a previous K950 and KS7000 owner (promised HDR10+ in the release blurb that never actually arrived and RS agreed on the Q8 replacement).
Even if the eARC update hadn't arrived. Secretly I would still be very happy with the performance of the Q90r under the direct connection caveat.
I have learned with Samsung, only buy a product on what it does at the time of purchase.
Not excusing Samsung in any way, who deserve all the loss of customer confidence they incur, the n950 and q90r are still premier league sounding bars.
As a K950, short term Q90R and N950 owner its all good :) I tried the early Q90R since my K950 didn't make me happy featurewise. I returned the Q90R with its early firmware for the more stable (at the time) N950 which has the features I want. eARC isn't a feature I need for the next few years. Why do I buy Samsung Atmos soundbars with their crappy customer service? I really like the musicality of them.

As a thought exercise.... Set the EQ to Pop, the Front Surrounds to +4 and the center to -1 It makes for a room filling sound. :D
 

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As a K950, short term Q90R and N950 owner its all good :) I tried the early Q90R since my K950 didn't make me happy featurewise. I returned the Q90R with its early firmware for the more stable (at the time) N950 which has the features I want. eARC isn't a feature I need for the next few years. Why do I buy Samsung Atmos soundbars with their crappy customer service? I really like the musicality of them.

As a thought exercise.... Set the EQ to Pop, the Front Surrounds to +4 and the center to -1 It makes for a room filling sound. :D
What do you set your rears at in this configuration?
 

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Tried your settings sounds good. Thanks
Beside the musicality of the Samsung bars, they really have a lot of ways you can tune the sound to your ear/room. The EQ settings and customization within the SmartThings App and the decibel adjustments to the different speaker groups.... it is almost like I have my old AVR back.
 

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Did anyone ever find a GOOD 4k/60 HDMI switch that is compatible with this? I have one that "kind of" works, but you have to power down the switch and power it back up for it to reinitialize the signal going through the soundbar. It's another annoyance on top of all the others I've had with the soundbar, such as the subwoofer connection being bad/bass not registering sometimes, issues with surround sound in windows, and mix just sounding "off" sometimes based on mix I've heard on other setups. Then there are the issues with firmware. It worked fine with my old switch before an update to the firmware on the N950 rendered it useless. I tried over ARC, but there was so much delay when gaming that was impossible to fix that it just wasn't feasible.

While I'm generally fine with the audio quality, all of the small issues I've had really have me considering going back to a standard home theater setup.

Sorry I’m late to the party but I thought I would share my story here for other passerby’s.

After trying and failing to make this soundbar work as an AVR I decided on the HDMI Switch path and failed 3 times before I found a perfect switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XWNQP9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-.g3EbGR35XK8

Works great with my Harmony and N950 plays nicely with it only acting as a dumb Soundbar on HDMI2. All CEC off on all devices in the chain and let Harmony do the heavy lifting.

I have 4 devices plugged into the switch, output to an HDFury AVRKey which splits the video to my LG B6 and the audio to my N950. The key was necessary to keep the N950 dumb since using HDMI1 with ARC caused massive headaches.

To address your other concerns.. I had them as well! However I am now very happy with this setup but it took a LOT of tweaking. I had long term engagements with 3 separate placements of my subwoofer that finally resolved in placing it directly behind my entertainment center, on the left side of my screen, with the port facing left INTO the left cabinet (blocking the port) with the felt facing the back wall.

I know this sounds ridiculous but please try it if you have a similar setup. It’s literally the only placement in room that made it sound like a decent system.

Now.. onto the settings that will really allow this orientation to shine. You’ve probably noticed that the bass mix is always sooo poor - to compensate we need to literally bottom out the eq and allow us to boost our volume as high possible. The louder this soundbar gets the more it opens up and allows the sub to breathe. Also keep it on Standard mode. Anything else will kill the mix.



I hope this helps!
 

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That switch does not work for me. I have settled for keeping a couple of remotes at hand and some more within reach. Not will to spend any more time on this.
 

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Sorry I’m late to the party but I thought I would share my story here for other passerby’s.

After trying and failing to make this soundbar work as an AVR I decided on the HDMI Switch path and failed 3 times before I found a perfect switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XWNQP9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-.g3EbGR35XK8

Works great with my Harmony and N950 plays nicely with it only acting as a dumb Soundbar on HDMI2. All CEC off on all devices in the chain and let Harmony do the heavy lifting.

I have 4 devices plugged into the switch, output to an HDFury AVRKey which splits the video to my LG B6 and the audio to my N950. The key was necessary to keep the N950 dumb since using HDMI1 with ARC caused massive headaches.

To address your other concerns.. I had them as well! However I am now very happy with this setup but it took a LOT of tweaking. I had long term engagements with 3 separate placements of my subwoofer that finally resolved in placing it directly behind my entertainment center, on the left side of my screen, with the port facing left INTO the left cabinet (blocking the port) with the felt facing the back wall.

I know this sounds ridiculous but please try it if you have a similar setup. It’s literally the only placement in room that made it sound like a decent system.

Now.. onto the settings that will really allow this orientation to shine. You’ve probably noticed that the bass mix is always sooo poor - to compensate we need to literally bottom out the eq and allow us to boost our volume as high possible. The louder this soundbar gets the more it opens up and allows the sub to breathe. Also keep it on Standard mode. Anything else will kill the mix.



I hope this helps!
Would be interesting to see a photo of your sub placement.
 
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When i use Spotify connect it sometimes just stops playing.
When I want to reconnect the soundbar isn't listed in spotify anymore and smart things cant connect to the soundbar.
I need te reboot the soundbar (not on off but unplug it) in order for it to work again.
 

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Sorry I’m late to the party but I thought I would share my story here for other passerby’s.....
Now.. onto the settings that will really allow this orientation to shine. You’ve probably noticed that the bass mix is always sooo poor - to compensate we need to literally bottom out the eq and allow us to boost our volume as high possible. The louder this soundbar gets the more it opens up and allows the sub to breathe. Also keep it on Standard mode. Anything else will kill the mix.

I hope this helps!
Interesting approach decrease the volume by a factor of 6 on the soundbar; do you also increase the Sub by 6? That equates to upping the Sub by 12 versus the soundbar :) I agree Standard mode and playing with the SmartThings EQ settings is the best way to tune to your ear/room. I use the Pop EQ with Sub at 6 and rarely set volume over 28 even with Atmos and the volume goes to 100.
 

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Interesting approach decrease the volume by a factor of 6 on the soundbar; do you also increase the Sub by 6? That equates to upping the Sub by 12 versus the soundbar :) I agree Standard mode and playing with the SmartThings EQ settings is the best way to tune to your ear/room. I use the Pop EQ with Sub at 6 and rarely set volume over 28 even with Atmos and the volume goes to 100.
LOL this is a soundbar not a 50k in speakers HT setup. Do what sounds good.
 

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Interesting approach decrease the volume by a factor of 6 on the soundbar; do you also increase the Sub by 6? That equates to upping the Sub by 12 versus the soundbar :) I agree Standard mode and playing with the SmartThings EQ settings is the best way to tune to your ear/room. I use the Pop EQ with Sub at 6 and rarely set volume over 28 even with Atmos and the volume goes to 100.

In regards to increasing the Sub, it depends on the content. I typically leave it at +6 but that is too high for some content. I’ve backed it down to 0, -6 and even -12 on rare occasions.
 
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