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Now I'm having trouble even displaying a static black image to try "massaging" out the backlight bleed. I loaded a black picture onto a USB stick. It loads fine, then after a moment the entire backlight shuts down. When I hit a button it all comes back. Happens with Smart LED turned on and off.
 

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Now I'm having trouble even displaying a static black image to try "massaging" out the backlight bleed. I loaded a black picture onto a USB stick. It loads fine, then after a moment the entire backlight shuts down. When I hit a button it all comes back. Happens with Smart LED turned on and off.
That is normal, local dimming at work. Try displaying a 10% grey pattern instead (full screen or windowed) or add some kind of text what stays static on an otherwise black screen to keep your display on.
 

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Hi there, with my settings please always use whatever settings I have listed in the post. I write them exactly how I have my TV set to and any variation will be incorrect. That is correct, with my new settings use Gamma 1 (anything else and you break the calibration).
He had asked why details were too black, and was looking for suggestions. That prompted me to ask if he had his gamma set to 1, meaning that is was not set to 0 as before..... Certainly not suggesting he change anything in your calibrations. :)
 

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I just realized this as not been addressed in this thread . When u go to the sound menu additionnal sound or options , do u see the delay bar set at 60 ms by default. Should this be set to 0 or left at 60 ms, I don't understand how a tv could have a default delay other than 0 and the user adjusts from there. But 60??
 

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I just realized this as not been addressed in this thread . When u go to the sound menu additionnal sound or options , do u see the delay bar set at 60 ms by default. Should this be set to 0 or left at 60 ms, I don't understand how a tv could have a default delay other than 0 and the user adjusts from there. But 60??
To be honest, I mess with the picture so much and my AVR does the sound, but I just checked mine and my audio delay was set to 90? And HD Audio was set to off? I have never messed with this and not sure why but I set delay to 0 and HD audio would be set to off. This effectively downgrades HD audio to standard.
 

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To be honest, I mess with the picture so much and my AVR does the sound, but I just checked mine and my audio delay was set to 90? And HD Audio was set to off? I have never messed with this and not sure why but I set delay to 0 and HD audio would be set to off. This effectively downgrades HD audio to standard.
With the firmware 1440 my delay was set to 0. But yeah HD Audio was off. So I turned it on.
 

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Sounds to me like your source is either "PC" or you have it set for Game mode. Turn off Game mode if on, or switch your Source type to something other than PC or Game in the source settings.

You must use Movie mode to be able to set everything (unless you unlocked Cal-Day and Cal-Night in the service menu, only these 3 have every settings adjustable).
Got it, thanks!
 

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Your response is correct for YouTube, but he asked about Netflix.

For Netflix, you have a couple of options. If you open the TV menu and select Info, the Netflix app displays some somewhat helpful information about the video currently streaming. This includes resolution, audio and caption information. I call it somewhat, as it doesn't give the actual stream rate. There is a way to see this, however. Netflix has a number of test videos that provide you the option to test at different refresh rates, from as low as 24 fps to 60 fps. The videos display the current streaming bitrate, along with the current resolution and other information. The image is static, with test patterns that show how the various resolutions actually affect the image. There's also an animation that matches the audio and shows if your audio is out of sync. If you do a search for 4k test patterns, you can find them.
atc - where are the Netflix 4k test patterns located? I searched Netflix but came up with nothing.
Thanks.
 

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Yep, all they call them is "test patterns". They actually come up as a series, with multiple "episodes". Each episode is a different refresh rate. Twelve episodes in all.
 

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Sound problem

I just received my 65 inch 7100 and I am having a problem with the sound. I am using a Yamaha RX-V473. At first I tried to connect via ARC but the sound kept cutting out so I connected an optical cable instead, which is not a big deal. My problem is that when I am watching a show on Direct TV then want to start an app in Smart Hub, let's say Netflix, the sound from the Direct TV feed keeps playing while the video is from Netflix. If I shut the Direct TV box off, there is no sound unless I go back to the menu and switch to the TV speakers instead of external speakers. I have turned AnyNet both on and off if that matters but the problem persists. Can someone please advise me as to what I am doing wrong?

One other quick problem. My Roku 4 which worked perfectly on my other TV, is all green. I have used ArchonX's settings and the picture from the set top box is fine but Roku, which is also plugged into my Yamaha receiver in a different HDMI port looks like this. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Hask
 

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Here you go, enjoy! Please let me know if this fixes the picture but I think these settings will pretty much blow everything away I have done previously. I also managed to increase/maximize dynamic range for deeper blacks and more pop. I also switched my pattern generator from my laptop via HDMI (which caused the initial push problem thanks to a wrongly set ICM profile) to using SpectraCal's MobileForge application with my Samsung Galaxy Note Edge and a HDMI adapter.

This not only keeps the correct pattern displayed on my TV when I need it, it takes the variables out of the equation (RBG Full or Limited, YCbCr, ICM profiles, etc.). A full win-win and I do think these settings look noticeably better than my previous settings on Cable and 4K content. I will let everyone be the judge of that.



On a side note, I thought Rtings settings were "meh". Please enjoy and happy Holidays everyone. I will fix my Cal-Night settings next, then finally release the BT. 1886 Gamma settings for movie mode.
I agree ArchonX your latest calibration is the best out of the group, my ISO1 panel looks amazing with your new calibration, the colors are beautiful (SUHD watch out) the colors to me have the best color saturation I have seen to date, the overall picture quality is great, I also think these new settings blow everything away previously done.
Followed your calibrations exactly, set in Movie mode.
Thank you for your time and hard work, beautiful job.
 
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I just received my 65 inch 7100 and I am having a problem with the sound. I am using a Yamaha RX-V473. At first I tried to connect via ARC but the sound kept cutting out so I connected an optical cable instead, which is not a big deal. My problem is that when I am watching a show on Direct TV then want to start an app in Smart Hub, let's say Netflix, the sound from the Direct TV feed keeps playing while the video is from Netflix. If I shut the Direct TV box off, there is no sound unless I go back to the menu and switch to the TV speakers instead of external speakers. I have turned AnyNet both on and off if that matters but the problem persists. Can someone please advise me as to what I am doing wrong?

One other quick problem. My Roku 4 which worked perfectly on my other TV, is all green. I have used ArchonX's settings and the picture from the set top box is fine but Roku, which is also plugged into my Yamaha receiver in a different HDMI port looks like this. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Hask
I have the Yamaha RX-V567, and ARC is working fine for me. I haven't encountered any issues with dropped sound, but I have heard others that do. I can't explain why it works for one and not another. I was having issues with previous firmware versions, but 1440 seems to have resolved the problems I was having. For the sound to auto switch when you change to a TV app, HDMI control must be enabled on both devices. As you note, it's called Anynet+ on the TV, and I forget if Yamaha has a special name for it. But for me, it switches from my Sony BD player to the TV audio automatically. It will also switch back to the Sony, but only when the Sony is powered on. If it's already on and I'm on the TV sound, I have to manually switch it back. Same with the Roku. Since it's always on, the Yamaha doesn't recognize when I want to use it. I don't think Roku supports HDMI control anyway.

For your Roku image, I suspect a defective HDMI cable. That looks like it's missing some chroma information. If it were a DB-15 RGB or DVI connection, I would say look for a bent pin, but I don't think you can do that to an HDMI connector. Be sure to try it in a different HDMI jack in the Yamaha as well.
 
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I have the Yamaha RX-V567, and ARC is working fine for me. I haven't encountered any issues with dropped sound, but I have heard others that do. I can't explain why it works for one and not another. I was having issues with previous firmware versions, but 1440 seems to have resolved the problems I was having. For the sound to auto switch when you change to a TV app, HDMI control must be enabled on both devices. As you note, it's called Anynet+ on the TV, and I forget if Yamaha has a special name for it. But for me, it switches from my Sony BD player to the TV audio automatically. It will also switch back to the Sony, but only when the Sony is powered on. If it's already on and I'm on the TV sound, I have to manually switch it back. Same with the Roku. Since it's always on, the Yamaha doesn't recognize when I want to use it. I don't think Roku supports HDMI control anyway.

For your Roku image, I suspect a defective HDMI cable. That looks like it's missing some chroma information. If it were a DB-15 RGB or DVI connection, I would say look for a bent pin, but I don't think you can do that to an HDMI connector. Be sure to try it in a different HDMI jack in the Yamaha as well.
Thanks for your quick response ATC. If I understand you correctly, you are listening to the apps through TV audio. I definitely want to hear sound from the Yamaha while watching Netflix, Amazon etc. Right now, I have to manually shut the satellite box off then go through the menus to switch back to TV sound, and most of the time I don't even get sound there, or it takes a long to time get it.

With regard to the Roku 4, I plugged it directly into the TV and the picture is now fine. In fact, that should in theory solve my first problem since it is now on a different HDMI input from the Yamaha, so when I switch from one to another, the satellite sound would no longer be heard. The problem is, I get no sound from the Roku, either on TV speakers or Optical. The little bars are going up and down in whichever of the two I choose, so it thinks it is putting out sound, but I'm not hearing any. The Roku has an optical out port but when I plugged a cable from there to the Yamaha, I still got no sound. I don't see why I would have to do that anyway, since the TV itself should send the sound to the Yamaha via optical cable.

I will try to set up ARC again, hopefully it will work, but it's not a problem to me to use an optical cable.

Thanks again for your quick response.

Hask
 

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I've had a 60" JU7100 for a month now and overall I've been pretty satisfied with the exception of the clouding on it, although I have been able to make it a little better by massaging with a cloth. The 55" JS8500 just went on sale and I could get it for an additional $100. I wanted to get opinions if you think it would be worth losing the 5 inches and paying and extra $100 for the JS8500. Would the picture quality be that much better? I know this falls into a matter of personal preference, but if it were you, would you replace a 60" JU7100 for the 55" JS8500? I would greatly appreciate as many answers as possible. Thanks in advance!


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Thanks for your quick response ATC. If I understand you correctly, you are listening to the apps through TV audio. I definitely want to hear sound from the Yamaha while watching Netflix, Amazon etc. Right now, I have to manually shut the satellite box off then go through the menus to switch back to TV sound, and most of the time I don't even get sound there, or it takes a long to time get it.

With regard to the Roku 4, I plugged it directly into the TV and the picture is now fine. In fact, that should in theory solve my first problem since it is now on a different HDMI input from the Yamaha, so when I switch from one to another, the satellite sound would no longer be heard. The problem is, I get no sound from the Roku, either on TV speakers or Optical. The little bars are going up and down in whichever of the two I choose, so it thinks it is putting out sound, but I'm not hearing any. The Roku has an optical out port but when I plugged a cable from there to the Yamaha, I still got no sound. I don't see why I would have to do that anyway, since the TV itself should send the sound to the Yamaha via optical cable.

I will try to set up ARC again, hopefully it will work, but it's not a problem to me to use an optical cable.

Thanks again for your quick response.

Hask
Not quite right. All sound (from broadcast TV, the TV apps, and devices plugged into the Yamaha) comes from the AVR. The TV apps all send their sound via ARC to the Yamaha. I don't use the TV speakers for anything.

On your Roku, check your audio settings. If it is set to surround or multi-channel, your optical may not have any sound. I think I remember reading that the Roku will only send surround sound via HDMI, so if you are using optical you would hear nothing. I don't know if the Roku 4 differs in that respect. I only have the 2 XS.
 

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Not quite right. All sound (from broadcast TV, the TV apps, and devices plugged into the Yamaha) comes from the AVR. The TV apps all send their sound via ARC to the Yamaha. I don't use the TV speakers for anything.

On your Roku, check your audio settings. If it is set to surround or multi-channel, your optical may not have any sound. I think I remember reading that the Roku will only send surround sound via HDMI, so if you are using optical you would hear nothing. I don't know if the Roku 4 differs in that respect. I only have the 2 XS.
Thanks again atc. I think I need to get someone here to see if I messed anything up. It's hard to diagnose problems like this without seeing the setup. Anything other than the Direct TV box does not play through ARC, whether its the apps or Roku. I need to shut off the satellite box and go through the menu to switch to TV speakers. For now I will live with that. I will also call Roku to make sure I have the right audio settings.

Thanks to you and everyone else. I have learned so much from following this forum. You guys are great.

Hask
 

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Where can I find the 1440 update? Looking at Samsung Support page I only see 1432.
Go to menu then go to support then go to software update. Click on software update and you will see two choices along with your current version. Click on update now and if the update is currently available in your area (updates are rolled out to different areas at different times) you will be able to download it.
 
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