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The running list I have, for the JU7100, is per below.

UN50JU7100

-IS01 (Innolux/CMO)
-IA02 (Innolux/CMO)
I just picked up another Samsung (UN50JU7100) and am seeing the issues people are having with not having a Samsung screen. I have the IS01, but the image quality seems fine and the Cal-Day/Night settings referenced earlier are also great. Anyone else with IS01 have any issues I should be aware of?
 

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Issues? I am seeing no evidence that is the case.
Yes, I posted I have that panel. One of the best LED TV's I have had, clouding to date is minimal at most. The settings from Achron X look terrific. People have jumped to conclusions about Samsung and non Samsung panels. Based on my TV and that the settings Achron used appear to be terrific on my panel I have to think specs are being adhered to no matter the panel. And imperfections when they happen appear to happen no matter the panel. I have seen posts about Samsung panel problems.
 

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Issues? I am seeing no evidence that is the case.
Yes, I posted I have that panel. One of the best LED TV's I have had, clouding to date is minimal at most. The settings from Achron X look terrific. People have jumped to conclusions about Samsung and non Samsung panels. Based on my TV and that the settings Achron used appear to be terrific on my panel I have to think specs are being adhered to no matter the panel. And imperfections when they happen appear to happen no matter the panel. I have seen posts about Samsung panel problems.
Well I'm late to the party and don't really have the time to read all 6141 posts, but I keep seeing comments regarding swapping out for a Samsung screen. They dont even make a 50" screen apparently anyway, and the calibration from Achron looks Amazing so I dont have any complaints. I was more just curious if anyone else had specific issues with the IS01 on the 50... thanks!
 

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Wanting to swap out it exactly what I'm talking about. The incorrect thought is they will get a better panel just because it is a "Samsung" panel. That's just has not proved to be the case.
 

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Wanting to swap out it exactly what I'm talking about. The incorrect thought is they will get a better panel just because it is a "Samsung" panel. That's just has not proved to be the case.
Totally agree. My 55" with IS02 panel is great. We think we have found the cause of the edge problem. I found on another site where this has happened with the tv being layed screen down for an extended period of time causing an impression around the edges causing the color shift. What I read made some sense. When they shipped it, it left DFW airport, arrived in Memphis the next day and sat there for 12 days until delivery. Now the replacement set left DFW Friday and is in Memphis today. Delivery date scheduled for the 19th??? I almost want to drive the 2 1/2 hours to get it. Who know what happens all those days sitting there. Still nervous about the new one seeing this old one is so good.
 

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I'm curious - has anyone in the central/south Florida market used Orlando Digital TV for calibration? Their website is well done and very informative - leads me to think that using them would be better than rolling the dice with the Geek Squad.
 

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I'm curious - has anyone in the central/south Florida market used Orlando Digital TV for calibration? Their website is well done and very informative - leads me to think that using them would be better than rolling the dice with the Geek Squad.
You would be better served to use ArchonX's settings and put your $300+ towards something else. I am not saying his calibration is perfect for ALL 7100's, but I don't see how a professional would make it any more visually appealing.

Just saying...
 

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I'm curious - has anyone in the central/south Florida market used Orlando Digital TV for calibration? Their website is well done and very informative - leads me to think that using them would be better than rolling the dice with the Geek Squad.
No I have not, I was going to contact them but changed my mind with the Achron X settings. It's entirely possible they could fine tune even more based on your room conditions and your panel. My feeling is it is more likely they would not be able to give much of a difference in the end. Using WOW and Spears/Munsil calibration discs though they can not do 2PT and 10PT While balance or Color space, shows the Achron settings for Tint, brightness, Contrast, and almost Color intensity to be spot on for my TV even though a different panel than his. I find skin tone something I am very picky about to be about the best of any TV I have had over the years. Colors seem real, with some very natural looking scenes in shows. I have to think his full settings are pretty much spot on.
I can't go as far to say it would be a waste because piece of mind has a value and knowing a pro calibrated your particular TV has value whether real or imagined.
 

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You would be better served to use ArchonX's settings and put your $300+ towards something else. I am not saying his calibration is perfect for ALL 7100's, but I don't see how a professional would make it any more visually appealing.

Just saying...
While I certainly respect the time and effort that Archon put into his settings, they are not for everyone, in every situation. Posters have respectfully said that they needed to tweak this or that and as you said " I am not saying his calibration is perfect for ALL 7100's". As far as it being "any more visually appealing", I've got to think that a competent technician, who is ISF certified and using the proper equipment, will be worth the $300.
 

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No I have not, I was going to contact them but changed my mind with the Achron X settings. It's entirely possible they could fine tune even more based on your room conditions and your panel. My feeling is it is more likely they would not be able to give much of a difference in the end. Using WOW and Spears/Munsil calibration discs though they can not do 2PT and 10PT While balance or Color space, shows the Achron settings for Tint, brightness, Contrast, and almost Color intensity to be spot on for my TV even though a different panel than his. I find skin tone something I am very picky about to be about the best of any TV I have had over the years. Colors seem real, with some very natural looking scenes in shows. I have to think his full settings are pretty much spot on.
I can't go as far to say it would be a waste because piece of mind has a value and knowing a pro calibrated your particular TV has value whether real or imagined.
Your last sentence speaks volumes.
 

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While I certainly respect the time and effort that Archon put into his settings, they are not for everyone, in every situation. Posters have respectfully said that they needed to tweak this or that and as you said " I am not saying his calibration is perfect for ALL 7100's". As far as it being "any more visually appealing", I've got to think that a competent technician, who is ISF certified and using the proper equipment, will be worth the $300.
Your last sentence speaks volumes.
Reminds me of the movie Tommy Boy and the "guarantee".

I am not quite sure you understand what myself, ArchonX, and others have done that you believe ISF Certified Calibrators will do differently. But hey, it's your money.....

Try this one out.... spend the money, ask the calibrator while he is there to put ArchonX's settings in (for kicks and giggles) and compare while he's there. I would seriously love to know how the non ISF Certified Calibration stacks up.

I am not trying to flame with these replies. I am curious myself what you would gain... other than the "peace of mind".
 

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Case in point.... watch this video. It will give you a good idea what to expect when a professional calibrator comes to your home. I was actually quite disappointed that they felt some of the settings that ArchonX and I try to nail perfectly (yes, yes, for our TVs), the two professionals got "close enough" and moved on. That being said, maybe that's the $300 treatment? ;)

 

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I am receiving my 7100 tomorrow. This is my first Smart TV. This question just dawned on me. I have a rack with my receiver, bluray, etc on one side of my room. From there I ran an ethernet and a 25 foot hdmi. To use the apps, Youtube, Netflix, etc, what is my best option? An optical line back to my Marrantz receiver, or another hdmi? I would like to make it pretty seamless, where I do not have to go into the Marrantz reliever and change the input for audio each time I need to watch a Netflix show. What's the best way to do this? I'd like to run whatever line tonight to be ready tomorrow.
 

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I am receiving my 7100 tomorrow. This is my first Smart TV. This question just dawned on me. I have a rack with my receiver, bluray, etc on one side of my room. From there I ran an ethernet and a 25 foot hdmi. To use the apps, Youtube, Netflix, etc, what is my best option? An optical line back to my Marrantz receiver, or another hdmi? I would like to make it pretty seamless, where I do not have to go into the Marrantz reliever and change the input for audio each time I need to watch a Netflix show. What's the best way to do this? I'd like to run whatever line tonight to be ready tomorrow.
I just went through this myself. Congrats on your purchase -- it's a great TV!

If you run anything from your TV back to your receiver you're going to end up having to change inputs to get your TV audio.

You're other option is configure your receiver for "ARC" if it supports it. ARC (audio return channel) allows the TV to send audio back to your receiver through the same HDMI cable you're using to send video from your receiver to your TV. There is one input on the TV's mini connect box that supports ARC, and usually the receiver will also have specific HDMI outputs that support ARC.

However, even if your receiver supports ARC, it may or may not switch inputs on its own. The audio through ARC is not combined with the current audio on the HDMI input of your receiver. For my Yamaha receiver, it needs to switch to the TV AUDIO 1 input in order to output the TV's audio.

For other reasons, I chose to run an optical cable from the TV back to my receiver. I use a harmony remote so I just setup a new Smart Hub activity that switches my receiver to the TV AUDIO 1 input when launching the TV's Smart Hub. Whoever setup the harmony settings for the TV was clever to setup Smart Hub as an "input" on the TV. This causes to TV to resend the input command when switching activities which will fully exit the Smart Hub app... even if you're actually on the same HDMI input already.
 
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I am receiving my 7100 tomorrow. This is my first Smart TV. This question just dawned on me. I have a rack with my receiver, bluray, etc on one side of my room. From there I ran an ethernet and a 25 foot hdmi. To use the apps, Youtube, Netflix, etc, what is my best option? An optical line back to my Marrantz receiver, or another hdmi? I would like to make it pretty seamless, where I do not have to go into the Marrantz reliever and change the input for audio each time I need to watch a Netflix show. What's the best way to do this? I'd like to run whatever line tonight to be ready tomorrow.
I too suggest ARC as the best solution for your situation. If your AVR supports ARC, it most likely also supports HDMI control (what Samsung calls AnyNet+), so power on/off, volume and input switching can happen automatically. For example: if I'm using my Blu-Ray player and want to watch Amazon via the TV app, I press the Smart Hub button on the TV. The AVR changes its sound input to TV (via ARC). If I am watching OTR TV and turn on my Blu-Ray player, the AVR switches its input to the BD player and the TV to HDMI 4 (which is the only HDMI jack on the TV that supports ARC).

Since the TV uses a One Connect Mini box, which has the only HDMI jacks, that would be where you connect your single cable from the rack to the TV. The mini box has about a 7' cord, but many people have wrapped the cord and mounted it behind the TV out of sight.
 
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Outstanding. Thank you both. I am counting down the minutes til I mount it. Probably won't get any sleep tonight, lol. AVR sounds like the way to go. I believe I got the Marrantz 5008, it's a newer model, I'll check the manual when I get home.
 
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I too suggest ARC as the best solution for your situation. If your AVR supports ARC, it most likely also supports HDMI control (what Samsung calls AnyNet+), so power on/off, volume and input switching can happen automatically. For example: if I'm using my Blu-Ray player and want to watch Amazon via the TV app, I press the Smart Hub button on the TV. The AVR changes its sound input to TV (via ARC). If I am watching OTR TV and turn on my Blu-Ray player, the AVR switches its input to the BD player and the TV to HDMI 4 (which is the only HDMI jack on the TV that supports ARC).

Since the TV uses a One Connect Mini box, which has the only HDMI jacks, that would be where you connect your single cable from the rack to the TV. The mini box has about a 7' cord, but many people have wrapped the cord and mounted it behind the TV out of sight.
I just went through this myself. Congrats on your purchase -- it's a great TV!

If you run anything from your TV back to your receiver you're going to end up having to change inputs to get your TV audio.

You're other option is configure your receiver for "ARC" if it supports it. ARC (audio return channel) allows the TV to send audio back to your receiver through the same HDMI cable you're using to send video from your receiver to your TV. There is one input on the TV's mini connect box that supports ARC, and usually the receiver will also have specific HDMI outputs that support ARC.

However, even if your receiver supports ARC, it may or may not switch inputs on its own. The audio through ARC is not combined with the current audio on the HDMI input of your receiver. For my Yamaha receiver, it needs to switch to the TV AUDIO 1 input in order to output the TV's audio.

For other reasons, I chose to run an optical cable from the TV back to my receiver. I use a harmony remote so I just setup a new Smart Hub activity that switches my receiver to the TV AUDIO 1 input when launching the TV's Smart Hub. Whoever setup the harmony settings for the TV was clever to setup Smart Hub as an "input" on the TV. This causes to TV to resend the input command when switching activities which will fully exit the Smart Hub app... even if you're actually on the same HDMI input already.
I didn't properly quote the two of you. Thank you both. I'm betting the Marrantz 5008 supports ARC. This helps a ton
 

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I didn't properly quote the two of you. Thank you both. I'm betting the Marrantz 5008 supports AVR. This helps a ton
According to the Marantz US web site, the SR5008 does support ARC and has HDMI 2.0 jacks. That's a nice rig!
 
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This may be of interest to you if you are using a computer with a nvidia graphics card.



I should mention, at least in my case, before a game is loaded the below tweak is in effect, but when a game has been loaded the TV will go to it`s normal standard and entertain mode, but when the game has shut down the below tweak will take effect, all automatic, I have only notice this when playing games I play Crysis, Crysis warhead and Crysis 3.

This is for people who use their TV as a PC monitor on windows 10.
Mine is a 50inJU7100.
Normally when you are in PC mode some of the picture adjustments are grayed out, and the only two options are standard and enertain,

For this to work you must have RGB set to full in nividia control panel, your TV at it`s native resolution 3840x2160, and picture size>fit to screen is set to off also HDMI UHD Color set to on. And every time you install a new nividia driver you must apply the tweak.

What I found out is that if you go in to windows adjust resolution and change the recommended setting of 3840x2160 to 4096x2160 and then back to 3840x2160 the TV will still think it is in 4096x2160 when in all actuality it is 3840x2160 and scaling right, then you will have FULL control of your picture settings when you are in PC mode, Dynamic, Standard, natural, movie, day cal and night cal, and all other picture settings will work as they should.
This tweak works great for every day use, because you have access to all your picture settings for full calibrations. The tweak is safe and takes seconds. I am using a GTX 970.
Wow, thanks!! It's coming tomorrow and yes, I do need a new graphics card. My old GTX570 isn't gonna work but I knew that.
 
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