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Would you all recommend this JU7000/JU7100 over a HU7500 (HU8550 in USA) both at 65 inches?

I’ll only be using it as a Pc monitor to watch 3D movies, 3D games, etc.
 

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Hi,

I have an UE55JU7000, which I see that is the same as the JU7100 version.

I have a big problem with green flickering problem in my JU7000 TV, while playing with the Xbox one X. I notice the problem when the game mode is active (every time i play).

I recorded a video some time ago:
youtube.com/watch?v=_lwcP1MG_vk&feature=share
Investigating I see that this problem is common, but i dont know how to solve it:Samsung support doesnt help.
Here in the foreum there is a thread too:

avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/2694025-flickering-line-issue-problem-multiple-samsung-tv-s.html

Is there any way to solve it? Anyone could help me please?

Thank you.
 

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Hi,

I have an UE55JU7000, which I see that is the same as the JU7100 version.

I have a big problem with green flickering problem in my JU7000 TV, while playing with the Xbox one X. I notice the problem when the game mode is active (every time i play).

I recorded a video some time ago:
youtube.com/watch?v=_lwcP1MG_vk&feature=share
Investigating I see that this problem is common, but i dont know how to solve it:Samsung support doesnt help.
Here in the foreum there is a thread too:

avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/2694025-flickering-line-issue-problem-multiple-samsung-tv-s.html

Is there any way to solve it? Anyone could help me please?

Thank you.
I saw a video on you tube on how you go in to service manual and turn your picture modulations up from 15 tp 100 and voila! No more breathing or flickering. Did it on all my samsung tvs. Worked perfectly. Fixed.
 

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I saw a video on you tube on how you go in to service manual and turn your picture modulations up from 15 tp 100 and voila! No more breathing or flickering. Did it on all my samsung tvs. Worked perfectly. Fixed.
Checked out all the SM settings and found nothing listing Picture Modulations. Please give more info to find , or URL of the YouTube video - thanks.
 

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Checked out all the SM settings and found nothing listing Picture Modulations. Please give more info to find , or URL of the YouTube video - thanks.
There’s a few videos. One called “Fix Auto dimming for samsung tvs” by CmdrGreene is a good and easy one to follow. As I said I did this on all my samsung s and they came out great.
 

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There’s a few videos. One called “Fix Auto dimming for samsung tvs” by CmdrGreene is a good and easy one to follow. As I said I did this on all my samsung s and they came out great.

Hi!


Thank you for the message.
But that video helped you not to see green lines like this video?
Just to know we are talking about the same problem:
youtube.com/watch?v=_lwcP1MG_vk&feature=share


This is a video I recorded some time ago about this green lines flickering.
Please check it and tell me if "Fix Auto Dimming for SAMSUNG TV's" helped you with that, or your problem was other.


In the video he talks about other things, not those kind of lines, right?



Thank you!!
 

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There’s a few videos. One called “Fix Auto dimming for samsung tvs” by CmdrGreene is a good and easy one to follow. As I said I did this on all my samsung s and they came out great.
Thanks for the info.

One thing that came out of the video is NOT having to use a Service Remote to get into the Advanced Service Menu.: (Although I do have one)
SM > SVC > Other Settings > Cal Data Restore appears to now pull up the Advance option in the Main SM when triggered. (Previously I had to use the Service Remote to get the Advance option)

I changed all the values to 100. Shut down and restarted. Put back to Movie mode, plus all the other things we turn off.
The other thing I noticed about this Cal Data Restore, is that normally, going into the SM resets all, or some of the previous Movie settings for 2/10 Point and CMS. Settings still there when I shut off and restarted. Most settings stayed the same, but others had to be put back.

Had to drop Gamma to -3 in order to be able to calibrate 10 %. Re-calibrated the 2/10 Point and CMS. HDR (Max Nit level now at 338 Nits) calibrations were way off, versus normally little change, but this can also be due to calibrating HDR at Gamma=0 which is recommended.
SmartLED now seemed to be off with the values now being 100 in Picture_2D in the ASM.
Have put all the Picture_2D values back to original values, and will re-calibrate tonight to see if any changes.
Prior to this, did not have any issues mentioned. Just in the mood to try something different, and the JU7100 was due for a re-calibration - a daunting task!
 

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Thanks for the info.

One thing that came out of the video is NOT having to use a Service Remote to get into the Advanced Service Menu.: (Although I do have one)
SM > SVC > Other Settings > Cal Data Restore appears to now pull up the Advance option in the Main SM when triggered. (Previously I had to use the Service Remote to get the Advance option)

I changed all the values to 100. Shut down and restarted. Put back to Movie mode, plus all the other things we turn off.
The other thing I noticed about this Cal Data Restore, is that normally, going into the SM resets all, or some of the previous Movie settings for 2/10 Point and CMS. Settings still there when I shut off and restarted. Most settings stayed the same, but others had to be put back.

Had to drop Gamma to -3 in order to be able to calibrate 10 %. Re-calibrated the 2/10 Point and CMS. HDR (Max Nit level now at 338 Nits) calibrations were way off, versus normally little change, but this can also be due to calibrating HDR at Gamma=0 which is recommended.
SmartLED now seemed to be off with the values now being 100 in Picture_2D in the ASM.
Have put all the Picture_2D values back to original values, and will re-calibrate tonight to see if any changes.
Prior to this, did not have any issues mentioned. Just in the mood to try something different, and the JU7100 was due for a re-calibration - a daunting task!
Addendum: Prefer the PQ with original values. SmartLED works better. HDR values still a far cry from the old values. But then again, with Nit levels below 500, this is not really a set I'd watch HDR video on. This is the wife's set for watching 3D, and her SD channels while doing the laundry. I much prefer my KS9800.
Wife happy, that's all that matters.
 
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Samsung One Connect Mini the culprit?

Problem: Video stopped being displayed on TV after several on/off cycles (cable box, receiver, TV) in quick succession due to not all devices powering off at once. Nothing has been physically changed since the receiver was added one year ago and far as I am aware no settings were adjusted, everything has worked flawlessly until yesterday.

Components:
Source: Xfinity XG1v4-A
Receiver: Denon AV-X3500H
Display: Samsung UN65JU7100

The Xfinity cable box is connected to the Denon receiver via HDMI cable to CBL/SAT 1 HDMI IN on the Denon. The Denon is connected to the TV via HDMI cable from MONITOR1 ARC HDMI OUT on the Denon to the Samsung One Connect Mini HDMI IN 1, which then connects to the TV with the One Connect Cable.

The video signal is not being displayed on the TV after my son turned on and off all of the above devices because one of them did not power on or off with the others. Audio is still being put out through the receiver. The Denon's OSD also was not displayed on the TV. Yet the TV does display it's own settings and apps, so the TV display itself is working.

I unplugged the Cable box to Denon HDMI cable from the CBL/SAT 1 HDMI IN on the Denon and plugged it into the Samsung One Connect Mini HDMI In 2 and changed the TV's input source, still no video displayed on the TV. But now the Denon's OSD is displayed on the TV as the HDMI cable from the Denon's MONITOR1 ARC HDMI OUT to the Samsung One Connect Mini HDMI IN 1 is still connected.

Next I replaced the HDMI cable between the Xfinity cable box and the Denon, no dice. I then connected the new HDMI cable directly to the Samsung One Connect Mini bypassing the receiver and still no video.

I ended up reinstalling the original HDMI cable between the Xfinity cable box and Denon and connected a different television to the HDMI coming out of the Denon MONITOR1 ARC HDMI OUT. Video signal WAS passed on to the second TV.

So with that being said and the fact that I can see the Samsung's menu and use the apps built into the TV, I think the problem has to lie within the One Connect Mini box or the cable that connects it to the TV. Has anyone had a similar issue and found it to be the One Connect?
 

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I seem to recall having an issue like this in the past and I did the following.



  • Turn off the TV.
  • Unplug the TV
  • Unplug the Mini.
  • Wait one minute.
  • Plug in the Mini.
  • Plug in the TV.
Turn it on and see if it behaves differently than before.



Problem: Video stopped being displayed on TV after several on/off cycles (cable box, receiver, TV) in quick succession due to not all devices powering off at once. Nothing has been physically changed since the receiver was added one year ago and far as I am aware no settings were adjusted, everything has worked flawlessly until yesterday.

Components:
Source: Xfinity XG1v4-A
Receiver: Denon AV-X3500H
Display: Samsung UN65JU7100

The Xfinity cable box is connected to the Denon receiver via HDMI cable to CBL/SAT 1 HDMI IN on the Denon. The Denon is connected to the TV via HDMI cable from MONITOR1 ARC HDMI OUT on the Denon to the Samsung One Connect Mini HDMI IN 1, which then connects to the TV with the One Connect Cable.

The video signal is not being displayed on the TV after my son turned on and off all of the above devices because one of them did not power on or off with the others. Audio is still being put out through the receiver. The Denon's OSD also was not displayed on the TV. Yet the TV does display it's own settings and apps, so the TV display itself is working.

I unplugged the Cable box to Denon HDMI cable from the CBL/SAT 1 HDMI IN on the Denon and plugged it into the Samsung One Connect Mini HDMI In 2 and changed the TV's input source, still no video displayed on the TV. But now the Denon's OSD is displayed on the TV as the HDMI cable from the Denon's MONITOR1 ARC HDMI OUT to the Samsung One Connect Mini HDMI IN 1 is still connected.

Next I replaced the HDMI cable between the Xfinity cable box and the Denon, no dice. I then connected the new HDMI cable directly to the Samsung One Connect Mini bypassing the receiver and still no video.

I ended up reinstalling the original HDMI cable between the Xfinity cable box and Denon and connected a different television to the HDMI coming out of the Denon MONITOR1 ARC HDMI OUT. Video signal WAS passed on to the second TV.

So with that being said and the fact that I can see the Samsung's menu and use the apps built into the TV, I think the problem has to lie within the One Connect Mini box or the cable that connects it to the TV. Has anyone had a similar issue and found it to be the One Connect?
 

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Hi guys, I have the chance to buy this 85" TV for 1k. Is that a decent buy in 2020? Been wanting 3d for a while.
It's a 5 year old TV, and wasn't originally released with HDR support. That was added via a software update. That said, its HDR is far better than my newer NU7100, which is so bad I'm going to replace it once stores get some fresh stock back.

But I'd say for such an old TV it still has a pretty decent picture. 85"? Man, that will look good with quality UHD content. I use an Nvidia Shield on mine, I don't bother with the built-in apps. But that's my preference, mainly to support streaming from my home server and having lossless audio and Atmos/DTS:X from my UHD rips.
 

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ArchonX 55" Samsung JU7100 (TS01 panel) Calibrated Picture Settings Version 4.0 "Oblivion": My latest and greatest settings to date, I spent an extra hour going back and forth between Gamma and greyscale to ensure one did not get thrown off thanks to tweaking the other.

Note: See the bottom for recommendations and picture options If you do use these settings, please let me know how they look on your set. Also please include your TV model and panel, if you know it.

Calibration notes:


-Delta E: Under 1 for colors, under .5 for greyscale on all points.

-Gamma: 2.22

-Equipment used: Core i7 PC running Chromapure, X-rite I1 Display Pro 3 colorimeter. Used the internal pattern generator in Chromapure and went over color and greyscale 15 times to account for changes.

-Calibrated to REC 709 with CIE94

-I went for pure accuracy and adherence to REC 709 in the calibration, then adjusted settings to taste after the full calibration.

Picture settings as calibrated (see below for suggestions and my normal usage settings)

Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight: 6 (for 120 cd/m2 or 35 FL)
Contrast: 96
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 10
Color: 50
Tint G0/R0

Advanced Settings:
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color Space: Custom (see below)
White Balance (see below)
Gamma: 1

Picture Options:
Color Tone: Warm 2
Digital Clean view: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level: Auto (PC video card set to RGB-Full)
HDMI UHD Color: On
Film Mode: Auto 1
Auto Motion Plus: Off
Smart LED: Off

White Balance 2 Pt.:
R-Offset: -9
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: -23
R-Gain: -4
G-Gain: 0
B-Gain: -10

White Balance 10 Pt.: (Numbers in R, G, B)
10%: -19, 0, -28
20%: 5, 0, 2
30%: -2, 0, 8
40%: 13, 0, 10
50%: 6, 0, 4
60%: 2, 0, -1
70%: 2, 0, 1
80%: -1, 0, 0
90%: 10, 0, 2
100%: 10, 0, 1

Color Space: Custom (Numbers in R, G, B)
Red: 55, 0, 4
Green: 6, 55, 2
Blue: 0, 5, 64
Yellow: 53, 51, 3
Cyan: 3, 55, 53
Magenta: 51, 2, 55

Suggestion for more pop and my normal usage settings:


-Backlight 7-12 depending on environment. I set mine to 10 during the day and 8 at night.

-Color: Bump to 55 to 57 for more pop. I keep mine at 55

-Gamma: 1 for 2.22, 0 for 2.3. -1 for 2.4. I use 2.22, which is the most accurate to REC 709 and looks better to my eyes. You can try all 3 to see what you like but my settings will only be correct on Gamma 1. Gamma 1 has the flattest response on my set as well.

-Dynamic contrast and Black level: You can turn these on but bump brightness to 46 if you up black level. I do not use them personally but some do and it may give more pop or deeper blacks.

Tips:

-To ensure proper sharpness, display a pattern or pause some static text on your screen and get close to the screen. Turn sharpness up from 0 until you see a "halo" or artifact around the text and bump sharpness back down towards 0 until the Halo disappears. Note: You must be right by your screen with your eyes to do this properly.

-To ensure contrast and brightness are properly set: 90-96 will get your set ballparked on contrast. You need some test patterns or a disk to set contrast properly. The free AVS 709 is available to help you set contrast. For brightness, test patterns are best, but you can do it easily (for rough setting) by displaying an all black static screen. Turn brightness up until the black screen takes on a more grey hue and then back it down numerically, step by step, until the grey hue disappears. Note: This is only a rough ballpark method, but sure beats nothing! Proper contrast and brightness are very important to having a stunning picture, so I suggest having some sort of test disk or patterns to set both.

-Set Backlight, Brightness, Contrast, and Sharpness for your set and environment. Use test patterns or the above "easy and better than nothing methods" listed above.
I copied these settings but when I did a DisplayCal it threw up these errors?

3031045
3031047
3031048
 

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I've been having a color issue that randomly occurs when you turn on my 65" JU7100. Basically the blacks get crushed and the whites get blown out. Once it starts it doesn't matter how many times you turn the TV on or off, the issue persists. The only way I can fix it is to go into the "HDMI UHD Color" menu and toggle it either on or off.

I'm posting some examples, but it is sort of hard to see with a phone camera. If you look at the Cartoon Network logo in the before/after you can kinds see it.

Any thoughts?

3040318
3040319


3040320
 

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I've been having a color issue that randomly occurs when you turn on my 65" JU7100. Basically the blacks get crushed and the whites get blown out. Once it starts it doesn't matter how many times you turn the TV on or off, the issue persists. The only way I can fix it is to go into the "HDMI UHD Color" menu and toggle it either on or off.

I'm posting some examples, but it is sort of hard to see with a phone camera. If you look at the Cartoon Network logo in the before/after you can kinds see it.

Any thoughts?

View attachment 3040318 View attachment 3040319

View attachment 3040320
When was the last time your set has been calibrated ?

Use to use the online pattern App Mobile Forge but was not completely satisfied. (Apparently not bit perfect.)
Switched to the DVDO Iscan Duo for patterns and things improved, but since calibrating using the Lumagen VQ for patterns, this TV has never looked better Meaning - it's now wife approved, and I'm much happier with the results.
 

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When was the last time your set has been calibrated ?

Use to use the online pattern App Mobile Forge but was not completely satisfied. (Apparently not bit perfect.)
Switched to the DVDO Iscan Duo for patterns and things improved, but since calibrating using the Lumagen VQ for patterns, this TV has never looked better Meaning - it's now wife approved, and I'm much happier with the results.
I calibrated it a few months after the first couple times this happened. Even did a factory reset first. But that still doesn't stop the issue - when it happens I toggle the HDMI UHD Color setting and it goes back to how it should look.

I haven't used Lumagen before but I will look into at. At the very least if I can get the picture to improve when I'm not having this issue, that would be nice. :)
 

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I calibrated it a few months after the first couple times this happened. Even did a factory reset first. But that still doesn't stop the issue - when it happens I toggle the HDMI UHD Color setting and it goes back to how it should look.

I haven't used Lumagen before but I will look into at. At the very least if I can get the picture to improve when I'm not having this issue, that would be nice. :)
Using Lumagen on my KS9800 and doing the 2, 21 Point Grayscale and CMS- absolutely looks amazing. ! Unfortunately, cannot use my other Lumagen to do same with the 7100 since it's used to calibrate the 7100 and 3 other TVs in the house.
One of my DVDO IScan Duos is now used on my KS9800 for the HDMI 1, 2 and 3 Inputs to calibrate them since the Lumagen on it is on HDMI 4 and dedicated to it. Second DVDO IScan Duo collecting dust in the closet for now. (Wife hates any TV I put either Lumagen or DVDO IScan Duos on for main viewing.) KS9800 is MY TV and she has no say - does appreciate the great PQ though.
 

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Firmware update to 1560.0 Note: when extracted, update may not work. Move the Image Folder and Info.txt up to under the first folder. 10-28-2020

 
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