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i have been really careful with the type of movies that i watch, but i felt that this screen really have a lot of IR, i was just watching a show on dvd, full screen and on the show the was just a little logo that kept showing once in a while, the tv ended up showing the little logo for a little while, after a short period of time watching the show the logo went away, i m using the Movie mode with 50 Contrast, and 50 on brightness to watch movies on blu ray, today when i got home i started to use the scrolling feature as one of the guys in the forum suggested, boosting the brightness and contrast, i set it up to 70 both, after an hour of the tv being on with the scrolling, i switch to the menu to change it from Dynamic mode to Movie mode as i did that i noticed that the menu got stock on the screen for a little while after the tv was off.

now my question is, is this going to stop after the break in period? or i would have to be doing scrolling and white screen all the time to just erase any IR that the tv take in a show or a movie ? i m sorry for all this questions, is that i m new on plasmas and i dont want to screw things up.
 

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read this thread about break in....


- keep it on movie, turn down contrast and brightness

- use the break in dvd (i ran it for 4-5days)


now i watch movies on "movie" with contrast at 75, brightness 40 and tv on "standard" with no IR at all. i never had IR actually.


just don't use dynamic -- unless you live in a circuit city or a super bright room and absolutely have to.


and frankly, once it's broken in, it's probably fine to use dynamic (although i wouldn't leave it that way w/o zooming in to fill the screen).



jksu

Quote:
Originally Posted by stickb5 /forum/post/15635250


i have been really careful with the type of movies that i watch, but i felt that this screen really have a lot of IR, i was just watching a show on dvd, full screen and on the show the was just a little logo that kept showing once in a while, the tv ended up showing the little logo for a little while, after a short period of time watching the show the logo went away, i m using the Movie mode with 50 Contrast, and 50 on brightness to watch movies on blu ray, today when i got home i started to use the scrolling feature as one of the guys in the forum suggested, boosting the brightness and contrast, i set it up to 70 both, after an hour of the tv being on with the scrolling, i switch to the menu to change it from Dynamic mode to Movie mode as i did that i noticed that the menu got stock on the screen for a little while after the tv was off.

now my question is, is this going to stop after the break in period? or i would have to be doing scrolling and white screen all the time to just erase any IR that the tv take in a show or a movie ? i m sorry for all this questions, is that i m new on plasmas and i dont want to screw things up.
 

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Hi guys...I am new to the forum and purchased a 50A450 a few weeks ago. I do have a couple of questions though. When connecting my laptop via SVGA cable, there aren't any red colors at all. Is that due to using an SVGA vs. a VGA cable? And another question is what size thread are the screws in the back of the tv for wall mounting. I need longer screws and wanted to pick them up at Lowes? Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickb5 /forum/post/15626438


With the pixel shift would i be able to play games with no fear of IR or Burn In ?

I have had no burn in so far. "knock on wood". I was was playing Fable 2 without watching the clock the other day for 5 hours and had no IR at all. Although I do keep the contrast down a bit lower for playing games then I do for watching other sources. I would also reccomend waiting the 100 hours before any serious gaming sessions. Before the 100 hour mark I kept all my gaming sessions down to an hour or two.


I would imagine you just need to let the tv break in for a while. Read the break in thread. This tv really doesn't have any major burn in/IR issuses as long as you are careful.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesman0 /forum/post/15638361


I have had no burn in so far. "knock on wood". I was was playing Fable 2 without watching the clock the other day for 5 hours and had no IR at all. Although I do keep the contrast down a bit lower for playing games then I do for watching other sources. I would also reccomend waiting the 100 hours before any serious gaming sessions. Before the 100 hour mark I kept all my gaming sessions down to an hour or two.


I would imagine you just need to let the tv break in for a while. Read the break in thread. This tv really doesn't have any major burn in/IR issuses as long as you are careful.

since i bought the tv i have not play any video games, how long do you live the break in DVD on?, i dont have the dvd but i downloaded the images and copy them on a flash drive and connected to my ps3 and im feeding the images trough the ps3 and i m still using the scrolling for an hour or so.
 

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I have never used the break in dvd. I just watch regular tv. I find watching SD strecthed works well at the beggining becuase often the station logos get cut off. But I would say 100 hours is the most you would need. For games I keep the contrast under 60. I usually have the approach to watch my tv as much as absolutely possible within the 30 day return period. That way if there are any problems it can be returned.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesandy /forum/post/15638318


And another question is what size thread are the screws in the back of the tv for wall mounting. I need longer screws and wanted to pick them up at Lowes? Thanks for the help guys.

M8 i believe. take the ones outta the back and take with you to lowes. they have a size and measurment chart you can screw yours into to confirm which size you need. but if i remembeer correctly it was M8. i bought 1 inch ones to use with my bracket.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dolfan349 /forum/post/15637891


When people say "dynamic," are they referring to dynamic contrast or DNIe in the dynamic picture mode?

They mean dynamic picture mode. Most people recommend staying away from dynamic picture mode, and instead using movie. If you just can't stand movie, use standard. But movie is the most accurate of the three modes.


I picked up a Spyder2 colorimeter, and spent a few hours yesterday with ColorHCFR doing calibration. I got most of the way done, but finally went to bed after doing the greyscale calibration. I'm going to finish the color calibration tonight, then I'll post my colorimeter calibrated settings.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeg36 /forum/post/15638973


They mean dynamic picture mode. Most people recommend staying away from dynamic picture mode, and instead using movie. If you just can't stand movie, use standard. But movie is the most accurate of the three modes.


I picked up a Spyder2 colorimeter, and spent a few hours yesterday with ColorHCFR doing calibration. I got most of the way done, but finally went to bed after doing the greyscale calibration. I'm going to finish the color calibration tonight, then I'll post my colorimeter calibrated settings.

Ah ok, I use Movie mode but was wondering if the dynamic contrast feature would worsen IR too.


Interested in seeing your color settings!
 

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I just finished calibrating. I spent 6 hours the past couple days with a Spyder2 colorimeter, ColorHCFR, and this excellent guide . I learned a ton, and had some fun doing it. I went through the complete calibration process 3 times total, and made a few minor adjustments the second and third time. I think I got the settings dialed in pretty good, as good as I could get with the sensor and software I used. In the end these are the settings I got:

Picture Settings


Mode: Movie

Cell Light: 10

Contrast: 77

Brightness: 46

Sharpness: (Whatever you think looks best) Mine's at 20

Color: 46

Tint: G48 R52

Detailed Settings


Black Adjust: Off

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Gamma: 0


Color Space:

Color Space: Custom

Red: Red 50, Green 0, Blue 5

Green: Red 0, Green 44, Blue 6

Blue: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 50

Yellow: Red 47, Green 48, Blue 7

Cyan: Red 0, Green 54, Blue 50

Magenta: Red 63, Green 0, Blue 50


White Balance:

R-Offset: 21

G-Offset: 25

B-Offset: 20

R-Gain: 30

G-Gain: 25

B-Gain: 46


Flesh Tone: 0

Edge Enhancement: Off

Picture Options


Color Tone: Warm2

Size: 16:9

Digital NR: Off

DNIe: Greyed out

HDMI Black Level: Greyed out (normal with PS3 on and option available)

Film Mode: Greyed out

Blue Only Mode: Off (obviously, all blue would look terrible)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesandy /forum/post/15638318


And another question is what size thread are the screws in the back of the tv for wall mounting. I need longer screws and wanted to pick them up at Lowes? Thanks for the help guys.

M8 sounds right, but didn't your mounting kit come with a bag of screws? The mount I bought from Monoprice came with a huge bag and I experimented a bit until I found the right ones. FWIW, the Monoprice mount was less than $30 and I don't see any difference when compared to mounts at Best Buy and other retailers for $90-150.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeg36 /forum/post/15644190


I just finished calibrating. I spent 6 hours the past couple days with a Spyder2 colorimeter, ColorHCFR, and this excellent guide . I learned a ton, and had some fun doing it. I went through the complete calibration process 3 times total, and made a few minor adjustments the second and third time. I think I got the settings dialed in pretty good, as good as I could get with the sensor and software I used. In the end these are the settings I got:

I tried these out on a few different devices (HD-DVD, HD-DVD upscaling SD-DVD, PS3, etc.) They actually look really really good! So much so that I reverted from using VGA for my 360 because the tweaks I could make with component looked better than the VGA (which was never the case with my last HDTV). I'm on the verge of getting a new 360 (I'm on my 5th console with no HDMI support, and my warranty for all but the RLOD will be up this year).


Thanks for putting these numbers up!
 

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One thing that is holding me back is the blue light at the bottom. Can this be turned off? Maybe its just me but it looks a bit distracting. Thanks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacos /forum/post/15645051


One thing that is holding me back is the blue light at the bottom. Can this be turned off? Maybe its just me but it looks a bit distracting. Thanks

yes it can be turn off, just go to setup, and there you can turn off the light and the sound of the tv when turn off and on
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeg36 /forum/post/15644190


I just finished calibrating. I spent 6 hours the past couple days with a Spyder2 colorimeter, ColorHCFR, and this excellent guide . I learned a ton, and had some fun doing it. I went through the complete calibration process 3 times total, and made a few minor adjustments the second and third time. I think I got the settings dialed in pretty good, as good as I could get with the sensor and software I used. In the end these are the settings I got:

Picture Settings


Mode: Movie

Cell Light: 10

Contrast: 77

Brightness: 46

Sharpness: (Whatever you think looks best) Mine's at 20

Color: 46

Tint: G48 R52

Detailed Settings


Black Adjust: Off

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Gamma: 0


Color Space:

Color Space: Custom

Red: Red 50, Green 0, Blue 5

Green: Red 0, Green 44, Blue 6

Blue: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 50

Yellow: Red 47, Green 48, Blue 7

Cyan: Red 0, Green 54, Blue 50

Magenta: Red 63, Green 0, Blue 50


White Balance:

R-Offset: 21

G-Offset: 25

B-Offset: 20

R-Gain: 30

G-Gain: 25

B-Gain: 46


Flesh Tone: 0

Edge Enhancement: Off

Picture Options


Color Tone: Warm2

Size: 16:9

Digital NR: Off

DNIe: Greyed out

HDMI Black Level: Greyed out (normal with PS3 on and option available)

Film Mode: Greyed out

Blue Only Mode: Off (obviously, all blue would look terrible)

i ll try those settings, thanks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairfax22032 /forum/post/15644491


M8 sounds right, but didn't your mounting kit come with a bag of screws? The mount I bought from Monoprice came with a huge bag and I experimented a bit until I found the right ones. FWIW, the Monoprice mount was less than $30 and I don't see any difference when compared to mounts at Best Buy and other retailers for $90-150.

I made my own tilting wall mount at work. I have been in sheetmetal and a CNC programmer for about 35 years. So I drew up a design on "Autocad",programmed it, then ran it on a CNC High Def plasma cutter, and formed it up. When I take some pics, I'll put them on here to show you. The mounts I have seen at the stores just look like they wouldn't hold a laptop. We have small grandchildren running around, and I just didn't trust the mounts I saw at the stores. I made one for a friend of mine a while back for a 60" plasma and was very strong. It was made from 3/16" alum and formed up. I know it really comes down to how strong the internal tv lugs are. His had 6, but he had his own screws to put the mount on the tv.
 

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hi all,


just picked up my pn50a460 a couple days ago. been pretty happy with it so far. i do have a few questions for you experts:

1. for panasonic (my first plasma), you can select which input source you want and go directly to it. for samsung, the input button on the remote will cycle through all the inputs that you have connected to the tv, right? after going high def, i am connecting my cable box via component cables. how can i disable the "tv" input so i don't have to cycle through it?

2. why does it not detect the dvd player connected via hdmi when it's off? it detects my wii on component 2 when it's off. the dvd player is connected to hdmi 1.

3. the tv turns on when i turn the dvd player on because of the "anynet"(pardon my spelling, i am currently away from home) feature. do most of you turn that feature off or leave it on?


thanks for you help.


jack
 

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I have the 50". I should probably clarify the circumstances of my calibration as results may vary. I calibrated over HDMI using the colors for hdtv. The settings would probably be slightly different, but not much, for sdtv or component. Also, my contrast setting is the highest within acceptable light levels. The contrast could go lower, but shouldn't go higher.
 
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