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I've joined the ranks of the dead.......

My 51f8500 just died. Watching it and all of the sudden pic went away, no status light, just black screen. In my case I contacted Squaretrade with whom I had bought a 4 year warranty for $105 and they are shipping three different boards to my home with a repair scheduled for next Thursday. Best I could do with the schedule for parts and repair. I'll let everyone know what he or maybe she puts in.
 

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I have a PN64F5500 that intermittently will not have any video. The red light blinks 6 times, then stops. I ordered and installed a new Samsung power supply, but it still occurs. Do you think it is the Y-board (BN96-25264A LJ92-01929A on my TV)? Could it be the caps? If so, what kind and value are the caps so I can purchase them before I rip the board out. Thanx in advance. One more thing, if I unplug it and press the power so it drains the power, it will power back on.

EDIT: I'm seeing talk here about having to adjust voltages after replacing those caps (never heard of this before if the caps are identical!) Will I need to get that done? If I bought a board off eBay, will I still need to get the voltages adjusted?

EDIT: Ok, looking at the board on the eBay post, I don't see any potentiometers TO adjust! And where would the capacitors that need to be replaced be on THIS Y-board??


 

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I have a PN64F5500 that intermittently will not have any video. The red light blinks 6 times, then stops.
That is the same behaviour that we've all experienced with our F8500's so it's likely the cause is the same. That said, this thread is about a different model TV than you have and the boards are no the same so you'll likely have to do your own digging to determine which cap(s) are the culprit(s) in your case. If you're lucky the blown caps are electrolytic instead of ceramic, they are often easy to tell visually.
 

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Another Samsung PN64F8500 fixed by replacing the Y board capacitors. My set was 3.5 years old and showing symptoms for 6 to 9 months before completely failing three weeks ago. I searched for and found this thread. I read it front to back several times and ordered the capacitors from Mouser.com. I then decided that I didn't want to learn how to solder components using this excellent and irreplaceable plasma. I googled "circuit board repair" and found a local shop that was willing to do the job for me.

I took the board in and watched them do the repair. I'm glad I didn't try and do this myself. All my experience swapping boards and fixing computers was irrelevant. I would have jumped right in and screwed it up. Removing the old capacitors was a lot more difficult and involved than I thought it would be. I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from going that route but if you do, as suggested by others here, cut the posts!

Anyway, I took the repaired board home, plugged it in, replaced the back cover, and gave a little yelp as the set came back to life. It was pretty impressive, to me anyway, that those 3 small capacitors were such an immediate and fundamental fix. The dead brought back to life. I didn't attempt to adjust the voltage settings but I haven't seen any degradation in the picture quality or other anomalies.

Only one small additional tip on removing the Y board from the six left side connectors. . . The edge of the board the connectors are mounted on sits about a quarter inch below the edge of the Y board. Being very careful not to touch any circuits or components I inserted the blade of a broad flat head screwdriver between the two boards. Without moving the screw driver up, down, left or right, I gave it a small twist. I did this several times alternating the location up and down the board. After a couple of iterations it popped right out. It is important to only move the Y board by the a small amount as you alternate between locations. You want the Y board to stay as straight as possible. If the top or bottom gets too far ahead of the other you run the risk of bending pins or maybe even breaking a connector.

Many, many thanks to everyone who have taken the time to share their knowledge and experience!!!
 

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That is the same behaviour that we've all experienced with our F8500's so it's likely the cause is the same. That said, this thread is about a different model TV than you have and the boards are no the same so you'll likely have to do your own digging to determine which cap(s) are the culprit(s) in your case. If you're lucky the blown caps are electrolytic instead of ceramic, they are often easy to tell visually.
Unfortunately, there are NO posts regarding my model and the power on issue on this forum! Are there other Samsung forums I might find more info on?
 

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OK - from what I can find, the Y-board is the same for the 5500 and the 8500 - at least same PN - can someone smarter than me confirm this please?
 

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I should open an electronics repair shop

If I can install them and it fixes my plasma without catching fire or electrocuting my cat, I would be happy to help you as well. I bought plenty of caps. Send me a PM and I'll give you my contact details.
Well, this weekend the wife got fed up with the tv's bad behavior and I tackled the fix. It was getting bad enough that I had to pull power to get it to turn on.

I pulled it off the wall, removed and notated all the screws, back panel off, then could easily see the board on the left hand side. I decided to remove the board to ease soldering, using the twisting-screwdriver method to disconnect the left-hand side plugs. Once the board was removed, it was easy to find the bad caps, snip them off, then use shakey hands to do some of the world's worst soldering ever. I spent twenty minutes first trying to determine if there was a right or wrong orientation. I don't think there is, and in the end I copied how they were installed with the print on the caps facing the same way Samsung did it.

After confirming each soldered leg was solid, I reassembled, had no extra screws (bonus!) and did a test....for complete success! Over the weekend I had many on-off events, all of which were just fine, including a few on-immediately-after-turning-off ones that were real trouble before. Once again, thanks to the fine members here for an easy fix that saved my TV and possibly my marriage.
 

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Well, this weekend the wife got fed up with the tv's bad behavior and I tackled the fix. It was getting bad enough that I had to pull power to get it to turn on.

I pulled it off the wall, removed and notated all the screws, back panel off, then could easily see the board on the left hand side. I decided to remove the board to ease soldering, using the twisting-screwdriver method to disconnect the left-hand side plugs. Once the board was removed, it was easy to find the bad caps, snip them off, then use shakey hands to do some of the world's worst soldering ever. I spent twenty minutes first trying to determine if there was a right or wrong orientation. I don't think there is, and in the end I copied how they were installed with the print on the caps facing the same way Samsung did it.

After confirming each soldered leg was solid, I reassembled, had no extra screws (bonus!) and did a test....for complete success! Over the weekend I had many on-off events, all of which were just fine, including a few on-immediately-after-turning-off ones that were real trouble before. Once again, thanks to the fine members here for an easy fix that saved my TV and possibly my marriage.
Great job! Nothing more rewarding than fixing something yourself!
 

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Just you let you know that this problem is happening with the same model in Brazil. We have perhaps dozens of owners on HTFORUM with the blinking led / no image issue. At least Samsung is replacing the TVs for new LCD LEDs for some owners.
 

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picture of VS, VA, VSCAN (trimmers and voltage checkpoint)
Also have a 64F8500 that's started showing the blinking red led, no picture, when turned on. I've ordered the 3 caps, but have a question about those voltage checks. I may have missed it reading through the thread, but could someone possibly specify what the voltages should read at each of the pictured check points?

Thanks to all who have contributed.
 

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Also have a 64F8500 that's started showing the blinking red led, no picture, when turned on. I've ordered the 3 caps, but have a question about those voltage checks. I may have missed it reading through the thread, but could someone possibly specify what the voltages should read at each of the pictured check points?

Thanks to all who have contributed.
Voltages will be on a label/decal inside the display and they're very different often display to display. The label/decal is very obvious - you can't overlook it!
 

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Hey guys,
Blinking/not starting PN64F8500 owner here.
Are you all using 10uF 50V caps from the mouser site posted above?
Going through the Samsung document "12 2015" from samsung google drive posted before drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BzIiBNwRIV4NRmE5RDVXa0RJejg
Samsung says the caps to replace should be 10uF 24V:

3. Replace caps C5153 / C5152 / C5150, Part No. BN81-12840A - 10 Microfarad-25V (106). You
must order 3.


so which one is correct?
 

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Hey guys,
Blinking/not starting PN64F8500 owner here.
Are you all using 10uF 50V caps from the mouser site posted above?
Going through the Samsung document "12 2015" from samsung google drive posted before drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BzIiBNwRIV4NRmE5RDVXa0RJejg
Samsung says the caps to replace should be 10uF 24V:

3. Replace caps C5153 / C5152 / C5150, Part No. BN81-12840A - 10 Microfarad-25V (106). You
must order 3.


so which one is correct?
Either one will work as there's no harm in replacing with bigger caps, issues arise if you try to replace with smaller units as they may not be sufficient for the current that will run through them. The reason we are buying the 10uF 50V caps from Mouser instead is because Samsung discontinued the 24V models and, like the Y-Sustain board, they are no longer available through any known channel.
 
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PN64F8500 Caps

Hey guys,
Blinking/not starting PN64F8500 owner here.
Are you all using 10uF 50V caps from the mouser site posted above?
Going through the Samsung document "12 2015" from samsung google drive posted before drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BzIiBNwRIV4NRmE5RDVXa0RJejg
Samsung says the caps to replace should be 10uF 24V:

3. Replace caps C5153 / C5152 / C5150, Part No. BN81-12840A - 10 Microfarad-25V (106). You
must order 3.


so which one is correct?
I just replaced my 3 identical capacitors using the info in this thread and my PN64F8500 is working perfectly now (I used the 50v X7S) I did not remove the board, I simply clipped the existing capacitor legs and soldered the new caps on from top to bottom. The entire job including mounting a USB fan to my top grill was completed in 2 hours. I did not need to adjust anything or check any voltages, but I was careful to solder quickly to prevent overheating the caps or unsoldering the circuit board. I am so glad it worked! I really love the picture on this TV. Here is a link to the page that has has a great picture of the capacitors in question. BTW The bad ones looked brand new, no discoloration or signs of excessive heat.
 

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Add one more successful fix. Classic symptom on a 64" F8500, blinking led no picture. Used the suggested caps, and soldered onto the clipped legs of the old ones. Hit the power switch and cheered like a teenager. Wish I could buy a beer for those who found and posted this solution. I owe you one for sure.
 

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Hi all, really glad i found this thread. I have a PN51F8500 just about 4yrs old. Tv was on during midday, heard a loud clap sound and it cut off. After inspecting and troubleshooting, powering up with different configurations of the boards connected and disconnected, discovered the problem on the y board. One of the capacitors pretty much exploded (see pic 1)





Can anyone point me to the replacements for these? Or should i just get a "new" y board (see pic 2) saw a couple used/pulled from broken screens on eBay


Absolutely love my plasma and it would suck to have to get rid of it
 
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