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I have a PN60F8500 that died last September. For a year or so before that, the menu screens would occasionally freeze when you were navigating them. Turning the TV off/on would fix it. Then two weeks before it completely died, it would power off after being on for a minute or two, and the standby light would go out. After a few seconds, it would turn itself on again. Then it completely died, and I guessed it was the power supply and sent it to Nick's TV in Tuscon.

When it came back, I reinstalled it, but it wouldn't power on. After a couple of days, I smelled burning circuits and noticed the standby light blinking. I then unplugged it and called a local TV repair shop. Unbeknownst to me, they then sent the main board to Nick's TV too.

When the local repair shop returned the TV to me, it would power on, but if you used the menus, they would quickly freeze and you'd have to unplug it to get it to reboot. If you just watched something using an HDMI input, it might go 30 minutes before it would freeze and/or reboot. I then sent both boards back to Nick's TV.

When they came back, they said they repaired a resistor in the power supply that they assumed was the burning circuit I smelled. They said nothing about the main board. I put both boards back in, but the menus still freeze quickly with any use, followed by a reboot, and it still freezes/reboots after a few minutes if you just try to watch something using an HDMI input.

Does anyone have any insight into which board is causing the trouble? If Nick's TV really did fix both the main board and power supply, could this be caused by the capacitor trouble with the Y-board? By the way, the Samsung Support menu now says the TV is a PN51F8500, so I think they replaced my original board with a used one.
 

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I have the dreaded 5 flashes... no picture. Clicking in a relay. Bought Main, Y-Sus and Power boards from TVPartsToday.com, and replaced all three. Didn't fix the problem. My gut says the Y-Board I received was bad. Very frustrating. When mine went out, there was a flash from the back, yet I can find absolutely no evidence of a diode or anything that is burned, unless it is under one of the massive heat syncs. Pulled all boards and inspected all solder joints. Nothing funky. So discouraged, as I have spent a fortune. A comparable TV today would cost $2000, so I wanted to get it working. Pretty sure it can't be the X-sustain, but it's the only board I haven't replaced. Wondering if something blew behind the panel and I am just wasting my time. So depressing. Grrrrrrr.
 

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An interesting discovery. Samsung is facing class-action lawsuits in several states (California, Illinois, New Jersey, and Florida if my memory is correct) due to this issue.


The lawsuits allege that Samsung knowingly used poorly rated and substandard parts (capacitors in particular), in order to price the plasma more competitively. These parts degraded from the heat stress produced by plasma technology, leading to the premature failure of numerous Samsung plasmas. And, Samsung did not produce or stock parts to repair the defective plasma TVs.


It'll be interesting to see if any of these class action lawsuits win. We might all be getting a coupon for $5.00 off a $2000.00 Samsung purchase one of these days.


Google the terms Samsung plasma class action for more details.
 

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An interesting discovery. Samsung is facing class-action lawsuits in several states (California, Illinois, New Jersey, and Florida if my memory is correct) due to this issue.


The lawsuits allege that Samsung knowingly used poorly rated and substandard parts (capacitors in particular), in order to price the plasma more competitively. These parts degraded from the heat stress produced by plasma technology, leading to the premature failure of numerous Samsung plasmas. And, Samsung did not produce or stock parts to repair the defective plasma TVs.


It'll be interesting to see if any of these class action lawsuits win. We might all be getting a coupon for $5.00 off a $2000.00 Samsung purchase one of these days.


Google the terms Samsung plasma class action for more details.
Hi guys, it is crazy how this plasmas are dying. I know 2 people with the same plasmas and both TVs are dead. One power board not fixable, the guy literally through it away and got him self LG OLED, the other, panel went dead after a year and was replaced under warranty with another TV. Guy decided, he does not want it. Now to my story. 2013 build, bought 2014 on so called End of range sale. I'm from South Africa and the TV was build locally as well if this makes any difference. Long story short, after the heat wave, that we were having here around end Dec beginning of Jan, my TV decided not to start up anymore with the same symptoms. I do have 3 year extended warranty through a local insurance company, so initially I did not worry too much. After sending a technician and inspecting my TV, they decided, that it is not economically feasible to fix it and they offered me a replacement set of Samsung 65MU7350 TV. Which obviously it is a worse TV, then mine. When I pointed to them, that my TV was 3k and now they offering me a TV, that is 1.5k, their answer was, that if my TV was working, I would have been able to sell it if I'm lucky for that price. I have told them, that I have been a Plasma guy for more then 10 years and I don't want a stinky LED crap, but since plasma is not anymore available, conveniently for them, there is not much else, that they can offer me. So, I came across this thread and ordered the capacitors. I saw, that some guys were offered gift cards from Best Buy for up to 73% from the price of the set, unfortunately here in SA, we are not that lucky. Will let you know, how it goes guys. Personally, I believe what Samsung has done, needs to be taken to court and I hope they going to get their butt kicked in the US.
 

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PN64F8500 Turning off randomly

My PN64F8500 was purchased in Jan. 2015. It is now turning off randomly and then it won't turn back on right away. I have to wait about 5 minutes and then it comes back on automatically. What could be the problem?
 

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My PN64F8500 was purchased in Jan. 2015. It is now turning off randomly and then it won't turn back on right away. I have to wait about 5 minutes and then it comes back on automatically. What could be the problem?
In all likelihood, that is the problem discussed in this thread. It will eventually progress to not turning on at all, or turning on after being off for quite a while, but with only sound and no picture.

Can be fixed by replacing the Y-Sustain board (possibly available on eBay), by removing the board and sending it away to a service that will fix it (eBay again), or by removing the board and replacing the three ceramic capacitors yourself or taking it to a local service to replace them for you (what I did).

This thread shows which capacitors to replace, and what to replace them with for a few dollars from Mouser.


Edit: This guy seems to sell an extensive repair kit pretty reasonably, although by all accounts replacing just the three suspect caps works: http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/1372/samsung-lj92-01906a-bn96-24770a-y-main-sustain-repair-kit-for-tv-starting-up-with-no-image-vs-dropping-down
 

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In all likelihood, that is the problem discussed in this thread. It will eventually progress to not turning on at all, or turning on after being off for quite a while, but with only sound and no picture.

Can be fixed by replacing the Y-Sustain board (possibly available on eBay), by removing the board and sending it away to a service that will fix it (eBay again), or by removing the board and replacing the three ceramic capacitors yourself or taking it to a local service to replace them for you (what I did).

This thread shows which capacitors to replace, and what to replace them with for a few dollars from Mouser.


Edit: This guy seems to sell an extensive repair kit pretty reasonably, although by all accounts replacing just the three suspect caps works: http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/1372/samsung-lj92-01906a-bn96-24770a-y-main-sustain-repair-kit-for-tv-starting-up-with-no-image-vs-dropping-down
Thank you for the quick response!
 

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Hey guys was curious if anyone had any issues with the adhesive for the rubber spacer on the back of the cover melting seeping down the back of the display? I started having the same issue many have described with the video turning off periodically, sometimes not coming back on unless I unplug. It finally failed and would only click to turn on, no image, and turn off after 10 seconds, over and over again. I looked at the back of the display and found the adhesive leaked out the back. I took the cover off and on one of the heat sinks on the main board was also the adhesive oil and right next to the heat sink are what looks like two shorted chips.

I realize this is very similar to what other people experience when caps start to go bad but none of the caps visually appear to be blown on any of the boards and when I isolate the boards and I disconnect the Y-sustain board it still happens. When I then disconnect the Y and X sus boards it still happens. So I went ahead and purchased a "new" main board from Ebay and install it and now I can't even get it to boot up. I get the red LED light flash 5 times then nothing.

What's odd is with the original failed board I had proper voltages to main board, VS, VA, among others. With the "new" board I can't even get it to power on and it shows very low voltages for VS and VA. It's like I have taken a step back.

It's really frustrating because like everyone knows this is a fantastic set and really can and should be saved. I am just not sure where to go with it next especially since the seller obviously wont allow me to return the board and I dont know if I want to go down the path of buying another main board that "might" work.
 

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In all likelihood, that is the problem discussed in this thread. It will eventually progress to not turning on at all, or turning on after being off for quite a while, but with only sound and no picture.

Can be fixed by replacing the Y-Sustain board (possibly available on eBay), by removing the board and sending it away to a service that will fix it (eBay again), or by removing the board and replacing the three ceramic capacitors yourself or taking it to a local service to replace them for you (what I did).

This thread shows which capacitors to replace, and what to replace them with for a few dollars from Mouser.


Edit: This guy seems to sell an extensive repair kit pretty reasonably, although by all accounts replacing just the three suspect caps works: http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/1372/samsung-lj92-01906a-bn96-24770a-y-main-sustain-repair-kit-for-tv-starting-up-with-no-image-vs-dropping-down
I had a local tech repair my PN64f8500 yesterday. He removed the power supply and repaired it using a soldering iron. He said I had some cold solder joints. It only took him about 15 minutes to repair them. The tv turns on now and stays on although I have only watched it for about an hour. I showed him the Samsung tech notes posted in this thread, but he said that was not the issue with my tv.
 

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I want to express my gratitude towards all that contributed to this thread. My Chad B calibrated 64F8500 was exhibiting symptoms that pointed to the 3 10uF capacitor problem. I repaired it last night and all is well. It took me a while because I cut a few legs too short with my flush mount cutters, but managed to get the legs of the new caps attached and reading 0 ohms at the C5207 points.
 

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Hey guys was curious if anyone had any issues with the adhesive for the rubber spacer on the back of the cover melting seeping down the back of the display? I started having the same issue many have described with the video turning off periodically, sometimes not coming back on unless I unplug. It finally failed and would only click to turn on, no image, and turn off after 10 seconds, over and over again. I looked at the back of the display and found the adhesive leaked out the back. I took the cover off and on one of the heat sinks on the main board was also the adhesive oil and right next to the heat sink are what looks like two shorted chips.
Same problem here. My problem started a few days after I mounted the display to the wall, angled 15 degrees down. This could have allowed the oily stuff coming out of the heatsink to hit the mainboard. TV powered down and is since then stuck in a bootloop, 16s long.

Same thing with every board but the SMPS and the mainboard disconnected.
Green LED on the backside flashing once per second, red ones on the front flashing 5 times. All voltages are there, capacitors in Y Sustain replaced.

Going into test mode (shortening the holes 1-2 in the US, and 3-4 for Europe) puts the thing into test mode. Screen switches on, goes from white to red, then the 16s are over and it powers down again.

I cannot detect any activity from the CPU (like activity on SCA/SCLK). Probably some kind of protection kicks in to reboot the CPU.

This would be the time for a new mainboard. Unfortunately, this is the european version F8590, which has a different mainboard from the US version. Supplies of these has run out long ago, they never were popular over here.

I will probably try a mainboard from a F8500, if I can find any. And of course, nobody besides Samsung knows if this will be compatible.
Can do without the tuners, the rest should be the same.
 

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Hello guys, first of all thanks for all the amazing info in this thread.

I would like to confirm if my PL64F8500 have the same issue as described in this thread. I really don't use the television too much, it was bought in January 2014 and it worked without hassles. I don't know if it had the problems of slow startup and things like this because my parents watched this TV. I'm not a TV guy.

But today, I just powered the TV on and I hear a loud clap sound (like an explosion) and the TV failed to power on.

I can't confirm if I do have audio on the TV since I don't know in which Source the television is at the moment. I tried to plug my MacBook on the HDMI port and the computer detected the television set and changed the resolution to 1080p which is correct, but I can't listed to any sound.

Anyway, there's the 5 blinking red lights in the front panel in loop. So it's safe to assume it's an Y-Main problem? I can assume the clap sound was a ceramic capacitor blowing up?

Thanks,
 

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An incredibly useful thread... So much information here. I registered just to thank everyone who contributed here especially those who researched the issue and solution as well as document the procedure. THANK YOU! I replaced the 3 capacitors with 3 new ones from Mouser and my TV is fixed! Such a great feeling to see the glass turn on...


Interestingly on my PN64F8500 the one of the capacitors is labelled C5050 and not C5150 as per the service note from Samsung.
 

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I just registered to say thank you to all contributors of this fantastic thread!

I bought my F8500 around mid 2013. I didn't use it as much as I thought I would, literally wouldn't turn it on during weeks but my father would come visit on Sundays and he would sit and watch TV almost all day.

Last year while he was watching TV we heard a loud clap and the TV would restart and click with no video and sound. We called a technician who solved the issue by fixing the X and Y boards. So far so good, the TV came back to life and everything was great. Again, I didn't use the TV as much and now with more precaution than ever.

Last week I was cleaning my TV room and left the blu-ray player on so the TV was on stand-by showing the screen protection 'Samsung' logo, then the screen went black but TV was still on, tried to go to the menu using the remote and nothing, I then turned it off and by the time I wanted to turn it on almost instantly, bam! no image but sound after 10 or 15 seconds.

In a nutshell, this TV is facing the same issue you guys have wonderfully discussed here. The TV still turns on -- and that's why I can't pinpoint when the problem started, because I would just watch a movie or two then turn it off and not use the TV again after several days or weeks.

I want to be prepared when the TV completely dies so I tried to order the capacitors that a member shared with the following link: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-FG20X7S1H106KRT6 but they're out of stock. I found these (currently available): https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-FG20X7R1H106KRT6 and I can see that the only difference is that the ones out of stock are X7S (22% in Temperature Coefficient) while the ones in stock are X7R (15% in Temperature Coefficient).

My question is very simple, can I order those without problem?

Thanks again for your help and I hope I never have to replace the capacitors but better be prepared if I do!
 

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Yes these should be fine if all other specs are the same. That Max temp is also the key as the original part only went to 85c and that is why it failed
 

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Has anyone had any power problems or have any expirence with the 51" model? I was hoping the board would be same so I could follow the 3 cap replacement that's been laid out here, but of course it doesn't have them. Any suggestions? Replace every cap on Y and Power supply? lol
 

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My PN64F8500 died on Tuesday evening. No noise or anything - just went off. Would I be correct that this thread points to the same issue? I have a request into a repair company (for Monday I guess). I am also debating on replacing the unit. It has been a great TV, awesome picture, etc.

But I am wondering if a new OLED 4K TV is the better way to go.

Anyone have thoughts on that? I may still see if I can repair this TV, and sell it - or install it else where.
 

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My PN64F8500 died on Tuesday evening. No noise or anything - just went off. Would I be correct that this thread points to the same issue? I have a request into a repair company (for Monday I guess). I am also debating on replacing the unit. It has been a great TV, awesome picture, etc.

But I am wondering if a new OLED 4K TV is the better way to go.

Anyone have thoughts on that? I may still see if I can repair this TV, and sell it - or install it else where.
It could be only a capacitor fault. Do not throw it away before trying to find someone who could change the possibly dead caps. Take a look here, it's very easy - I've done it myself!

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-plasma-flat-panel-displays/1959809-samsung-pn64f8500afxza-issues-turning-8.html#post50174321

I've done it more than 2 years ago, also installed vents on the back which are automatically (via smart plug) turned on each day at 6pm and off at 1am. And I'm happy.

Due to heat issues wee are mostly watching the set on film mode with cell lightning set to 16.

Hope my unit will last some time. :)
 
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