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Is there a systematic way to troubleshoot if the problem is from the X board or Y board ?
My TV is clicking/not turning on



-I did change all the blue caps on the Y board
-I did test the power supply (with everything unplug) and all the voltages are good (VS is slightly higher than expected).
-I did try a second main/logic board, so I know it's likely not the problem.


I'm able to get proper voltages (for VA, VS, VSCAN, VE) if I unplugg the ribbon cable from the Y-Board to the logic/main board (and the green led is now blinking fast like in a normal/healty state).
If I unplug the X board power (from the Y board), it doesnt click, but I get a slow blinking green LED indicative of a problem (dunno if it's telling me that there is a problem with the Y board or Y-SUS, or it detects that the X board is unplug)
 

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Is there a systematic way to troubleshoot if the problem is from the X board or Y board ?
My TV is clicking/not turning on



-I did change all the blue caps on the Y board
-I did test the power supply (with everything unplug) and all the voltages are good (VS is slightly higher than expected).
-I did try a second main/logic board, so I know it's likely not the problem.


I'm able to get proper voltages (for VA, VS, VSCAN, VE) if I unplugg the ribbon cable from the Y-Board to the logic/main board (and the green led is now blinking fast like in a normal/healty state).
If I unplug the X board power (from the Y board), it doesnt click, but I get a slow blinking green LED indicative of a problem (dunno if it's telling me that there is a problem with the Y board or Y-SUS, or it detects that the X board is unplug)
Y-sustain board failures typically have TV turn on and sound works correctly, but no picture is shown, plus VS voltage shows properly for a second or so and then starts going down slowly to 0V.
 

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I tried glasses+light+lens but I just can't see the stems to cut!
Unfortunately, the illness I have had in recent years has definitely worsened my vision.
So I got the capacitors today and began the process of attempting to bring my plasma back to life. Took the back off and replaced the power supply board. Inspected the old and did not see any visible issues nor problems with fuses. I examined the y-sus and now know what you mean when you look at the size of those three capacitors. Small indeed! I intend to cut the tops off the old capacitors right at the stem and blue film junction. Any suggestion or insights on the best approach in soldering the new capacitor to the board or old stem?
 

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So I got the capacitors today and began the process of attempting to bring my plasma back to life. Took the back off and replaced the power supply board. Inspected the old and did not see any visible issues nor problems with fuses. I examined the y-sus and now know what you mean when you look at the size of those three capacitors. Small indeed! I intend to cut the tops off the old capacitors right at the stem and blue film junction. Any suggestion or insights on the best approach in soldering the new capacitor to the board or old stem?
This is the info I have which I followed myself.
 

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This is the info I have which I followed myself.
Thanks, rickardl. So if I understand the repair guide, I'm clipping the old capacitors off leaving their legs, trimming the new capacitor legs to about the old leg lengths, and then soldering the new legs both to the top of board and along the old legs. Upon closer inspection and based upon some further reading, it might be better to not trim the new capacitor legs to allow more soldering space, and simply bend them back. Any suggestions or alternative thoughts?
 

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Thanks, rickardl. So if I understand the repair guide, I'm clipping the old capacitors off leaving their legs, trimming the new capacitor legs to about the old leg lengths, and then soldering the new legs both to the top of board and along the old legs. Upon closer inspection and based upon some further reading, it might be better to not trim the new capacitor legs to allow more soldering space, and simply bend them back. Any suggestions or alternative thoughts?
I am not that familiar with soldering, I borrowed a soldering pen from a friend but I tried to cut the old legs as far up as possible to have something to solder on.
Maybe some more experienced can chime in?
 

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I am not that familiar with soldering, I borrowed a soldering pen from a friend but I tried to cut the old legs as far up as possible to have something to solder on.
Maybe some more experienced can chime in?
Clipped the old capacitor legs as high as I could and trimmed the new capacitor legs length. ready to attempt solder. debating if I need to use flux.
 

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thank you all for your input. Your time is much appreciated. Like some others on this thread, my issue is with the power supply (no standby LED light). After some research, I got an ESR meter to test each of the capacitors on the Power board. I found some that may have been out of range so I'm going to try to take them out, test again, and replace.

1. has anyone done this with success?
2. I guess I will go to Moser and buy similar electrolytic capacitors. Outside of the Voltage and uF specs, any other specifications I should look for in buying the replacement capacitors (they are cylindrical and brown and of various sizes/voltages).

In case anyone else is curious, I have pasted the part number, and voltage of each capacitor on the power supply board
TV: PN60F8500AFXZA
Board details: BN44-00602A,
Board Number(s): P60PF_DSM, PSPF751503A

Part # on board, Microfarad, Volts
CX 820 1000 10
CX 821 1000 10
CX 816 470 10
cX 819 220 25?
cq 815 1000 25
cx 801 4.7 50
cx 815 470 35
cx 817 470 35
cx 818 470 35
cb 814 220 25
cs 801 470 100
cs 824 470 100
cs 894 can't read 250
cs 893 can't read 250
cs 811 22 50
cb 836 47 50
cq 807 47 50
cp 387 120 500
cp 388 120 500
cp 840 120 500
cp 839 120 500
cs 847 47 50
cp 816 47 50
 

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I've had an F8500 for around 5 or 6 years. Bought mine shortly after they were discontinued for 800.00 It's been excellent, until today.

It went black this morning after having been on less than a half hour. I have no red standby light, no sound, nothing. Left it unplugged for over an hour, still nothing.

After reading through this thread, I've come to the conclusion it's the main power board, and not the Y board.

From my understanding of these issues, if you have sound or a blinking red light, it's Y board. With no light or sound, it's usually the main board?

Would someone be so kind as to confirm?

Jody
 

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single cap?!

Hi all - I hope someone is still following this thread. I bought the 3 caps from mouser last year - knowing I'd eventually get up the nerve to attempt the "fix." Today was that day. But to my surprise and dismay, after I pulled the back panel off, I realized my panel doesn't have the 3 caps at all - it just has a single cap. It looks like it says 22uf on the cap. My display has all the characteristics mentioned in this thread, so am I right to assume that single cap is my issue as well? I also find it odd that my single cap is 22uf, but everything else I've seen mentions 30uf (3 caps at 10uf each.) My main question is, does anybody know the exact replacement (single cap) fix from mouser (a link?) I'm no electrician, so all this 22uf, 30uf stuff, is way out of my league. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
BK

Edit: for reference, my board looks just like the one in post #63 in this thread.
 

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I'm really tired and fed up with this television. My model is the PL64F8500.

Mine went dead 7 months agora. After asking Samsung for a replacement and get denied since it was >5yrs old I tried to fix the television by myself.

I noted a clicking noise on the SMPS during the power on phase. It was clearly the protection circuit kicking in. After some basic tests I isolated the problem to the Z-SUS board. The one in the right.

Ordered an expensive new board and do the replacement. I tested everything before turning on all the cables. The new board was OK and working as expected when powered on by the SMPS.

So I finally assembled everything and turned on the TV.

It survived for 5 seconds.

The Y-SUS went dead right after. Something blow up on the Y-SUS board in the bottom left of the board. Not sure what blow up, but this is really frustrating.

Now I don't know what to do. Buy an expensive Y-SUS board or just trash the TV.
 

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Now I don't know what to do. Buy an expensive Y-SUS board or just trash the TV.
I recently went through a similar issue with my 60". I took it to a repairman, just because of the very issue you experienced. I considered buying a new power supply board and just installing myself. But that wouldn't have fixed my problem. Mine was the X board. I wouldn't have known what made the power board to fail and would have just burned up the replacement when I energized the TV.

It cost me 400.00 to have it repaired, but could have potentially cost me several power boards and a lot of frustration if I had tried to repair it myself.

If it goes out again, I'm getting another TV.

Just my .02
 

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I recently went through a similar issue with my 60". I took it to a repairman, just because of the very issue you experienced. I considered buying a new power supply board and just installing myself. But that wouldn't have fixed my problem. Mine was the X board. I wouldn't have known what made the power board to fail and would have just burned up the replacement when I energized the TV.

It cost me 400.00 to have it repaired, but could have potentially cost me several power boards and a lot of frustration if I had tried to repair it myself.

If it goes out again, I'm getting another TV.

Just my .02
Thanks for sharing the story. But I the major problem I'm facing is wrong diagnostics from the authorised tech store. They claimed that the problem was the SMPS. The SMPS is fine as far as I know. The diagnostics was made in front of me and it was clearly wrong. The technician wasn't aware of the SMPS protection circuit kicking in. He don't know what was this.

With this background I decided to solve by myself. That's why I gone through this route. But as I said in my case, another board fried. So I don't know if it's related or not. Wasn't the same board that fried.
 

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Thanks for sharing the story. But I the major problem I'm facing is wrong diagnostics from the authorised tech store. They claimed that the problem was the SMPS. The SMPS is fine as far as I know. The diagnostics was made in front of me and it was clearly wrong. The technician wasn't aware of the SMPS protection circuit kicking in. He don't know what was this.

With this background I decided to solve by myself. That's why I gone through this route. But as I said in my case, another board fried. So I don't know if it's related or not. Wasn't the same board that fried.
I see, I didn't realize you had it professionally diagnosed. I see your dilemma. You've got to decide whether it's worth it to you to try another board or not. At some point, the repair begins to be more costly than replacing the TV. Same thing with vehicles and appliances. I struggle to make those decisions too. But, ultimately, you're the one that has to live with the decision. Best wishes to you.
 

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Still going strong

Hello Everyone - I was not surprised to see how large this thread has grown but way to many messages for me to play catch up. Just wanted to come on and say that over three years later, the swapped capacitors are still holding strong and the TV is working great.

In reading sporadic comments I see some are having different issues, possibly with the power board itself, but should you be having the issues which this thread began, the changing of the capacitors is the simple inexpensive fix. There are pictures of how to find where these are located earlier in the thread as well as my post on where to find these capacitors through Mouser. GL!!


**I have searched back to save some folks the trouble in finding the link for the capacitors. Should you need the pics of where to locate the three, look back to around July 2016. http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...20X7S1H106KRT6
 

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Well my 64" F8500, which has been flawless since 10/2014, turned itself off twice in two separate watching sessions. It restarted the first time but is completely dead now. No red light.

Based on my searches - this would indicate a completely failed/dead power supply and NOT the capacitor issue?

Can anyone recommend a mail-in service for repairing the PSU?

Thanks in advance!

Quite disappointing that my 50" 10 y/o Samsung plasma is going strong and was 1/4 the price of the 64".
 

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My 64F8500 has had the sound but no picture problem for many months now. I will get picture most of the time, but not in warm weather and not if the tv has just been turned off (need to wait a few hours first). Thinking I need to replace the 3 capacitors.

Trying to find stock in capacitor, will these ones do the job?

Search part number 146-3467 at au.rs-online.com (I can't post links as I'm new here).

Appreciate any advice.
 

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I want to share a successful repair.

I bought my pn64f8500 (ny model number i Denmark: ps64f8505) when it was released.
About 10 days ago the tv turned itself completely off and turned on again 5 minutes later. This happened a few more times with increasing off-intervals. Next day it turned off again and wouldn't turn on. No LED stand-by light.

After reading through this forum I decided to change the 3 10uF/50V capacitors even though I was unsure if they were the source of the problem or it might be caused by the power supply or something else.
It was sold out from mouser, so I searched the product number (FG20X7S1H106KRT06) and found it on arrow.com (just insert product number). I bought 10 and they arrived in Denmark in 3 days.

When I opened the TV and disconnected the Y-board I could hear a click when i connected the power and I saw a flashing green LED on the main board.

I removed the Y-board, cut the 3 old capacitors off leaving the legs and soldered on 3 new capacitors. The old combined capacitance was around 24 uF and it rose to 30.3 uF with the new capacitors. Thanks for invaluable guides in this forum for how to perform the procedure.

After reconnecting the Y-board the TV works flawlessly :)

Thoughts:
My symptoms were not identical to the most common capacitor-failure descriptions but were still caused by the capacitors
I have only tested the TV for 2 days so don't know the long-term effect
 

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