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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other resource thread is getting a bit long so I'd like to move the discussions about this projector with Quadscan over here. A number of us Sanyo/Boxlight owners have this setup now and have figured out how to do it (I'm ordering a Quadscan today). Some questions:


1. For a long run (12 meters), what is the best cable to use. Is it necessary to spend $300 for the Better Cables cable to get a good picture?


2. What settings on the Quadscan and projector are working best?


3. Does it still make sense to use a progressive scan DVD player with this combo?


Any other suggestions for setup/tweaks?


Thanks.


Dan
 

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thereabouts. I run the projector at "normal". I had the problem with the green hue but when I turned off enhanced black on my dvd it is greatly reduced.


I purchased my cable from Markertek. They are a major supplier to broadcasters and studio crews. I use a broadcast grade cable. It is far less expensive than a designer cable from you know who...


I do not think a progressive signal makes sense here. The Qscan is going to do the processing anyway.




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Through man's sweat and God's love, beer came into the world...


- Saint Arnoldus
 

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I had my green shadows on both my interlaced DVD player and my NTSC signal. I did not change any settings on my projector (most of them deal with getting the computer signal to sync which it did) and in order to get an acceptable green out of the Quadscan I had to turn the Saturation way way down and the Hue way up. This did not present an acceptable picture over all so I have sent my Quadscan into Focus to see if it is tuned correctly. As far as using a progressive DVD palyer directly, it depends on the processor in your player. Some people like the Genesis chip set in the quadscan and some don't. I'd look at it in your setup and decide for yourself. I still dream of the day I will be able to sit down and watch a movie but it will be at least another two weeks now. Good luck to everyone.

 

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While I'm complaining, I also found that large areas of homogeneous color tend to get banded as though it's color pallette is limited. I think they call that solarization. Anyone experience this?


[This message has been edited by jaron (edited 08-14-2001).]
 

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This is all I know as of 8-22-01:


For some reason, (especially with some errant settings that I can't remember or explain) the Quadscan Elite can make things real green in a way that is hard to fix. On its own the projector doesn't look that way, at least at first. I only know that something I did when I first set up the QSE (on instinct/eyeball/seat of the pants) caused everything to look real green. After I read the manual, reset everything and started over, it seemed to go away for the most part.


However, the more I read a bout the green and the greater the variety of movies and DSS I watched the more paranoid I become. Some source material still was too green for me. So I have now gone into the projector menu, and using V/E I now have set the Green drive at 22 (default is 32) and goosed the Red drive to the default of 32, and the Blue drive at 31. It also caused me to set the "sat" on the QSE to 135 (default is 128) and "hue" to the "0" default. The picture is now very natural and pleasing on what were greenish shows. I remember MrWiggles telling me he did something like this on the 18 he set up for his friend. Using that blue film with V/E is a little frustrating, because you can never seem to get it quite perfect. Plus the worst thing you can do is look at the screen without the blue film, because your memory affects your perceptions then. I found that going to the gray scale can actually help set the color drive too. If any color is too high or low, it will make some or all of the bars on the gray scale look off. If you look at the gray scale with all the drives on default/32 it looks pretty darn green. This may vary from projector to projector. I went back and forth and then tested Jurrasic Park. BIG BIG difference. Looks incredible. Fortunately, pretty close is plenty good enough to make your sources look very nice. I did notice that I had to set the "sat" back to the 128 default on DSS or it was too colorful.


This is how I set it up: Connect the QSE to the Computer 1 input of the projector through VGA cable, reset the projector and QSE totally to factory defaults, except XGA out on the QSE and Computer 1 input of the projector. Run your DVD player (set to factory defaults too) to the QSE through component output, but make sure it is set to interlaced output, rather than progressive. Then use the V/E DVD and the blue film to check the color balance and tint as described above. You can adjust the color balance with the QSE "SAT" and the tint with the QSE "HUE". But you may not need to.


The adjustments on the QSE are very goosey. It's really hard to get them to move just one or two notches with the remote, as it often jumps 5 or 10, which is usually way too much. Speaking of goosey...the 38t remote joystick can also be that way, so use it only to get to where you want to be and then use the half-moon button immediately on the lower left of it as the "enter" button. It makes it much easier to use as it avoids unintentional jumping around.


It would be a lot easier if Focus would give us a step by step approach rather than just telling us what everything does. It really makes a difference what parameters and settings you set up first.


I have mine set up now, and it is SO perfect. I read a review (kind of an old one in the dog mini-years of projectors) of the QS Pro by Bill Cushman, who described watching DVD's through it and descibing the result of the processing as "almost reference quality". Those strong words made me gamble. It paid off. He must have been right, even though I bought the newer Elite version. I use the first scene of brushing the fossil in Jurrasic Park to watch for jumping around of the tiny pebbles. It's kind of a torture test in my experience. It is rock solid. No jumpies.


BTW I do have my DVD player set for "Darker" which I presume means "blacker than black" or "0 IRE." The letter boxed areas seem pitch black to me.


I hate to admit that whatever processing the 38t had to do after receiving a progressive scan component DVD output signal just ain't as good as what the QSE does. Although the direct hook up can be really good if you sit back far enough, and get a Panasonic RP91 and knock the sharpness on both projector and DVD player to the absolute minimum, and defocus just a little, use the edge and mosquito filter on the 91, it still won't be nearly as good a picture as playing the INTERLACED COMPONENT output of the 91 through the QSE. It is really hard (especially for a non EE type) to think like the QSE and set it up intuitively or by eyeball like most of us are used to. You will almost certainly end up with a bad result. Getting the thing set up correctly takes a ton of reading and adjusting, and re-reading and re-adjusting. The reset button comes in very handy(like tearing up a letter and starting over). But the results are phenomenal. It's no wonder no one would give me any tips on this or the processing forum, because I bet no one knows what they did, and if they do, they don't want to type that much. Heck, half the trouble is getting the picture to fill your screen. You must use the test patterns on V/E or Avia to get the overscan/centering and sharpness right.


No screen door from 2 X screen width at perfect focus. No stair stepping, jaggies, no nothing. AND NO SOFTNESS of the picture. Incredible detail. Makes my old LP350/CD555m seem like I was looking through a lens with vaseline on it.


So here is what I did, I think.


You only need a single VGA cable between the QSE and the 38t(no S-video, no component, no composite). Use your A/V receiver to switch all your S-Video sources and plug your S-Video output of the RCVR to the "A" S-Video input of the QSE. Then get a NON-PROGRESSIVE/INTERLACED DVD player with COMPONENT OUTPUTS and plug it into the component input "A" of the QSE. If you've got a DTC-100 you can plug it into the VGA input of the QSE. Those three inputs are IT.


Now the hard part.


Oops, first set the projector on Computer Input 1 (where you plugged in the VGA from the QSE).


On the QSE: Display Device Configuration: set to XGA.


I notice that the Projector sometimes shows that it is accepting "XGA 6" (whatever that is) rather than "XGA 1" from the QSE. It sync'd in that manner all by itself, and when I experimentally changed it to XGA 1, the picture moved up and to the right a little, so I put it back on "6". However, the next time I used it, it showed XGA 1 and V/E showed the overscan was still centered perfectly, so I don't know what that's all about.


Also use all the default settings on the projector.


Use the buttons on the front of the QSE to do the initial set up, because you have to access some parameters from there that the remote won't control.


Each source (and you only have 3 (one for each type of wire(VGA, ComponentA, and S-Video A))) has to be set up independently. Luckily the QSE remembers the setting you make, even if it's display looks like it doesn't.


The VGA from your DTC-100 is a straight unprocessed pass-through. I think it came up perfect the first time I used it.


At first I did this: Manually select your input source (take it off of AUTO) so that the Color(Sat),Tint(Hue),Brightness and Contrast settings can be used. It is a butt pain to toggle through EIGHT different input sources to go between S-Video (called SVHS A) and component (called YUV A), with your DTC-100 in the middle at PASS VGA, but it's either that or not be able to adjust the "sat" for each input on AUTO source. But now I set in on AUTO source select, because it is sooo much easier and you can adjust the projector to look good on all sources.


Component A Input: for DVD


Output Screen Aspect Ratio: 4:3 B (because it vertically centers the picture in the LCD chip.


Output Window Control Size: Get the Sharpness/Overscan Test Pattern and enlarge the picture with the arrows to fill the screen. There is next to no overscan, so you will be seeing all the picture on the disc or the program (which I think is good).


Output Window Control Position: Use the arrows to center the test pattern in the screen, side to side and up and down.


You may have to go back a forth between Size and Position, and even adjust your projector to get it perfect. But it isn't that difficult.


Input source window control works the exact same way. You have a size and position option, and you may have to go back and forth on the test pattern to get it right.


While you're on the sharpness test pattern, knock it down as far as you can on the DVD player (if it is a Panasonic with the sharpness control). The computer input of the projector doesn't have a sharpness control.


Brightness and Contrast seem dead on/perfect at the defaults of both machines per V/E on my 1.3 gain Da-light screen. Goosing them either up or down even one notch looked worse to me.


There is a low pass filter switch on the back of the QSE that the QSE manual suggests we use on digital projectors. I toggled it, but wasn't able to spot much of a difference on a quick evaluation, but it was recommended and didn't hurt, so I left it on.


Now for anamorphic DVD's you use the Aspect Ratio Selection Trigger on the bottom of the QSE remote, instead of the projector(which can't be used on VGA input anyway).


If you go with a 16:9 screen the settings for the Output Screen Aspect Ratio will be different. And it will maintain a constant height for you, and even scale up 4:3 letterbox to fill your entire screen (you lose the upper and lower bars).


Someone else said: "The biggest operational problem is that when you switch memories (for example by switching inputs (component to s etc.), the display device doesn't indicate what is set in that memory. The display device shows the other source settings) even though the actual settings are in the memory and are being outputted. A quick touch of the up or down arrow will cause the display to jump to the setting the machine is outputting. Once you figure this out, most operational problems vanish."


I will be eager to hear of any mistakes I made in my description so I can fix them. But whatever I did, and however I did it, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.


------------------

Joe

My current idea of the best value:

Boxlight 38t

Quadscan Elite

Panasonic RP91

RCA DTC-100

Da-Lite 100" 4:3 1.3gain

Studio Experience SE616's

Dual Infinity Subs

and some other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gees, Joe, you are a resource for sure! http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif


Are you saying you're still getting some green tint? Or that you were able to eliminate it by bypassing the Auto setting.


The VGA cable is standard male/female, video grade? I looked at the specs for the one avcable.com is selling and it looks pretty darn good. I'll have to run it about 35 feet. Where'd you get yours?


Thanks again, Joe, your post was AWESOME!


Dan

 

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Quote:
Originally posted by JHouse:
Hey, I didn't do all this for nothing, so here it is again.


For some reason, (especially with some errant settings that I can't remember or explain) the Quadscan Elite will make things real green in a way that is hard to fix. I have mine set up now, and it is SO {almost) perfect. I read a review (kind of an old one in the dog mini-years of projectors) of the QS Pro by Bill Cushman, who described watching DVD's through it and descibing the result of the processing as "almost referance quality". Those strong words made me gamble. It paid off. He must have been right, even though I bought the newer Elite version.


I hate to admit that whatever processing the 38t had to do after receiving a progressive scan component DVD output signal just ain't as good as what the QSE does. Although the direct hook up can be really good if you sit back far enough, and get a Panasonic RP91 and knock the sharpness on both projector and DVD player to the absolute minimum, and defocus just a little, use the edge and mosquito filter on the 91, it still won't be nearly as good a picture as playing the INTERLACED COMPONENT output of the 91 through the QSE. It is really hard (especially for a non EE type) to think like the QSE and set it up intuitively or by eyeball like most of us are used to. You will almost certainly end up with a bad result. Getting the thing set up correctly takes a ton of reading and adjusting, and re-reading and re-adjusting. The reset button comes in very handy(like tearing up a letter and starting over). But the results are phenomenal. It's no wonder no one would give me any tips on this or the processing forum, because I bet no one knows what they did, and if they do, they don't want to type that long. Heck, half the trouble is getting the picture to fill your screen. You must use the test patterns on V/E or Avia to get the overscan/centering and sharpness right.


No screen door from 2 X screen width at perfect focus. No stair stepping, jaggies, no nothing. AND NO SOFTNESS of the picture. Incredible detail. Makes my old LP350/CD555m seem like I was looking through a lens with vaseline on it.


So here is what I did, I think.


You only need a single VGA cable between the QSE and the 38t(no S-video, no component, no composite). Use your A/V receiver to switch all your S-Video sources and plug your S-Video output of the RCVR to the A S-Video input of the QSE. Then get a NON-PROGRESSIVE/INTERLACED DVD player with COMPONENT OUTPUTS and plug it into the component input A of the QSE. If you've got a DTC-100 you can plug it into the VGA input of the QSE. Those three inputs are IT.


Now the hard part.


Oops, first set the projector on Computer Input 1 (where you plugged in the VGA from the QSE).


Also use all the default settings on the projector.


Use the buttons on the front of the QSE to do the initial set up, because you have to access some parameters from there that the remote won't control.


Each source (and you only have 3 (one for each type of wire(VGA, ComponentA, and S-Video A))) has to be set up independently. Luckily the QSE remembers the setting you make, even if it's display looks like it doesn't.


Display Device Configuration: set to XGA.


The VGA from your DTC-100 is a straight unprocessed pass-through. I think it came up perfect the first time I used it. Maybe I'll recheck to see if there are any settings on it.


Manually select your input source (take it off of AUTO) so that the Color(Sat),Tint(Hue),Brightness and Contrast settings can be used. It is a butt pain to toggle through EIGHT different input sources to go between S-Video (called SVHS A) and component (called YUV A), with your DTC-100 in the middle at PASS VGA, but it's either that or go with the green faces on AUTO source.


Component A Input: for DVD


Output Screen Aspect Ratio: 4:3 B (because it vertically centers the picture in the LCD chip (I think).


Output Window Control Size: Get the Sharpness/Overscan Test Pattern and enlarge the picture with the arrows to fill the screen.


Output Window Control Position: Use the arrows to center the test pattern in the screen, side to side and up and down.


You may have to go back a forth between Size and Position, and even adjust your projector to get it perfect. But it isn't that difficult.


Input source window control works the exact same way. You have a size and position option, and you may have to go back and forth on the test pattern to get it right.


While you're on the sharpness test pattern, knock it down as far as you can on the DVD player (if it is a Panasonic with the sharpness control). The computer input of the projector doesn't have a sharpness control.


Then you can set the Saturation (color) and Hue (tint).

I set the saturation up at 141 per V/E (default is 128). V/E also caused me to set the Hue at 3 (default is 0).

However, Jurrasic Park caused me to reduce Saturation to 132 and increase Hue to 5 to 8.


Brightness and Contrast seem perfect at the defaults of both machines per V/E on my 1.3 gain Da-light screen.


You now go to S-Video A and go through the entire process again.


There is a low pass filter switch on the back of the QSE that the QSE manual suggests we use on digital projectors. I toggled it, but wasn't able to spot much of a difference on a quick evaluation, but it was recommended and didn't hurt, so I left it on.


Now for anamorphic DVD's you use the Aspect Ratio Selection Trigger on the bottom of the QSE remote, instead of the projector(which can't be used on VGA input anyway).


If you go with a 16:9 screen (because of some kind of prejudice) the settings for the Output Screen Aspect Ratio will be different. And it will maintian a constant height for you. You can look that up yourself.


Did I mention the picture is the finest thing I have ever seen in my life by a mile?


I will be eager to hear of any mistakes I made in my description so I can fix them. But whatever I did, and however I did it, IT'S SERIOUSLY COOL.


Thank you - thank you -thank you! I really can't believe it that you gave such details. My QS Elite arrived Saturday. I hate to admit that it took me 45 minutes to get a picture except for the HD pass through with the DTC-100. I could strangle the person or persons responsible for their manual. It looks like they would have a FAQ site as I'm sure we all have the same questions. You mentioned taking the Input off of AUTO. I have to play with that. Then manual said to leave it on AUTO. Watched "True Lies" last night on DVD - WOW. I didn't have a clue what everyone was talking about blacks. I had a Vidikron LCD for 4 years. I thought my blacks were pretty good until this. I really don't like having to scroll through the menus. My inputs are Denon Non-Progressive, Panasonic Super VHS, DSS with DTC-100 going through a Onkyo 777 AV RCVR.


Now if someone would just come on with some settings for the NEC LT150 and the QS Elite and maybe PRONTO configs for both. Boy has this eaten up my time. I have to work for a living and toys.


By the way, with all the things I don't like - the QS Elite is fantastic as soon as I figure out everything.




[This message has been edited by Jim OD (edited 08-14-2001).]
 

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I've edited my big post above to consolidate and add some things.


------------------

Joe

My current idea of the best value:

Boxlight 38t

Quadscan Elite

Panasonic RP91

RCA DTC-100

Da-Lite 100" 4:3 1.3gain

Studio Experience SE616's

and some other stuff.
 

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Joe seems to have thoroughly covererd everything, but to re-iterate


The QS can ONLY accept an interlaced signal, DO NOT bother with a progressive DVD player.


Put your QS by your player so you can use short component or S video cables, then run 1 long VGA cable to the Computer 1 input as said.

Any generic VGA cable should be fine, they seem to be more heavily shielded even with the generic ones, I dunno if a pricey cable would do any more.

Should not cost more than $30.

I think you need male-male.

You need another cable to take the VGA pass-thru for HD from your sat receiver. I think that one needs to be male-female, but I forget.


Joe- there are Pronto configs available already for the QS Pro (I use them). Perhaps the remote would function the same for the elite- if you want e-mail me at [email protected] & I can try to send you my config, or search for Quadscan on www.remotecentral.com and they have it.


Dan G
 

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Thanks Dan, I'll ring you when I can afford the Pronto.


Leckian used to brag on a Panasonic DVD player that was just interlaced and had a lot of controls. Anyone remeber which one that is? It's probably the ticket.


------------------

Joe

My current idea of the best value:

Boxlight 38t

Quadscan Elite

Panasonic RP91

RCA DTC-100

Da-Lite 100" 4:3 1.3gain

Studio Experience SE616's

and some other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK guys, I've caved in and ordered a Quadscan today, on that incredible deal from MVS Len Leckian told us about. So I'll follow Joe's setup instructions carefully and report on this thread early next week.


As for the DVD player, if the Kenwood changer gets rave reviews, I think I'll go for that and just use the 480i output for now. Just think of having all your movies there to be called up on demand. Way too cool!


Dan
 

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Joe, great job. I am about to order the Quadscan and I am certain I will reread your post several times before I attempt to set it up. Thanks for your time and excellent effort. Well I am off tomorrow to the shark-infested waters of the Bahamas. One of these days I'll really get to play with some of my new toys.


Jon
 

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Joe-

The Panasonic Player I was bragging about is the RV80, it is discontinued but there is still stock out there if you do a search. Before buying I would compare RV80's feature set with their new models to see if they incorporated the features in a current offering. The RV80 includes:


54MHz/x4 Oversampling Video Processing


Digital Cinema Mode for cinema-like luminance and color with improved detail in dark scenes


Digital Picture Mode allows a choice among four different preset viewing modes (Normal, Fine, Soft and Cinema)


Monitor Select allows for connection to a standard TV, CRT Projector, LCD Projector or a Projection TV


Digital Noise Reduction


Gamma Correction allows a choice of 5 different gamma settings to help bring out detail in dark scenes

Color controls


Brightness/Contrast Controls


Sharpness


I think that's all of them I haven't looked in a while-

Len


 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Len, this may be a suitable interim player for me. Where would I find one? What should I expect to pay for it?


Thanks


Dan
 

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Dan-

Don't know if you can wait a few weeks but if so I would buy the Panasonic DVDRP61K which has the adjustment features of the RV80, can be preordered for 235.00 and is a progressive scan player as well. www.allektronix.com

800-219-5434


Len
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by DanHouck:
OK guys, I've caved in and ordered a Quadscan today, on that incredible deal from MVS Len Leckian told us about. So I'll follow Joe's setup instructions carefully and report on this thread early next week.
This deal will last a couple more days as long as supply lasts. Shipping today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Len:


The RV80 transport is the same one as in the 310, which is also being used in some really up-market players. How could a $235 player be very good internally?


Dan
 

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Dan-

I don't know if the transport of the DVDRP61K is equal to or better than the RV80. From a very cursory search it seemed like the one place I found who had the RV80 left wanted $425. for it which is just two dollars less than a RP91. That seemed like too much to me for a discontinued model that I paid 299 for and got a 50 rebate. The last time I looked there was seller who had refurbished RV80's for 235.00 which seemed reasonable but they are not listed any more. I'd rather gamble that the transport of the DVDRP61K is satisfactory and get the added bonus of having the progressive scan option.

Len


[This message has been edited by leckian (edited 08-15-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Len:


You're right, I wouldn't pay that much for it. Want to sell yours?


Dan
 

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Dan-

I couldn't resist the Quadscan either so I going you use it with my new scaler. I think that you would be fine with any Panasonic or Toshiba DVD Player. The reason I was so high on the RV80 was I bought it to use with my LP350 through the S-Video of the projector. The LP350 had very few tweaks so the RV80 came in very handy. With the array of adjustment options you have with your Quadscan and your projector I think you should be fine.

Len
 
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