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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The sun came out today so I installed my Sat C kit. According to all of the posts that I have read the multi-switch as an A side and a B side with 13V and 18V inputs on each side. The instructions (and the picture) show the connection into the 18V side of the Sat B input.


I have a channel master elliptical dish installed January of 2002.


My multiswitch doesn't look like this at all. It has a receiver 1 side and a receiver 2 side with A and B inputs for both receivers. There is no voltage marking on any of the inputs. There are only 2 receiver outputs.


If I plug the combine into receiver 2 I get a satellite C signal on receiver 2. I do not get a signal on the receiver 1 downlink. To verify that it was not a receiver problem I switched the downlinks and the other receiver worked.


I also know that receiver 2 did NOT work when I had the B-C signal plugged into the receiver 1 side.


I think that I must have a 4x2 multi-switch and I need a 4x4 multiswitch? Any way to work around this with splitter combiners? Yuck.... Did my original ins taller screw me by installing a 2x4 mutli-switch?


If someone can clarify my assumptions I would appreciate it. Then I can call DirectTV and see if they will send me hardware.
 

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I can relate. You're in luck because I went through this with my installer just the other day.


It turns out the the "free" installs that DirecTV did (mine was through the mover's program when I moved houses), they used 4x2 multiswitches. These switches still have the 4 inputs, 2 from the 101 satellite (Sat A) and 2 from the 119 satellite (Sat B), but only 2 outputs. Presumably these are much cheaper to make. The problem is figuring out which inputs are for 119, AND which one is the 13V vs. the 18V input.


I didn't see this with my own eyes, but my installer and I figured this out with him on the roof and me in the home theater, with 2-way radios. My switch at least shows one set of inputs additionally labeled as 22KHz. This is the key. The 22 KHz inputs are the ones for Sat B (i.e. 119 degrees). I can't be sure, but these may be labeled "B" as well. Having narrowed it down to those 2 inputs, you will just have to try one or the other to figure out which is 13V or 18V - they're not marked.


We just tried connecting the Sat B/C combiner to one and then the other. The first one we picked turned out to be wrong, but swapping them out did the trick.


If it works, you'll see signal on transponders 8, 10, and 12 as well as 22 through 32 on the 110/119 combination in your receiver's signal strength menu. Also, Channel 90 will show a channel label, something like "Triple Sat Check".


Hope this helps!


-Rajiv
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the post. The issue I found is that if I connect to one B input I get one receiver. If I connect to the other B input I get Sat C on the other receiver.


This implies that there is no crossover at all in the switch. So you need to eitehr supply the Sat C signal to both inputs via a diplexer or buy a 4x Switch. The 4x4 switches are about $100 so as a cheapskate I will at least try to get DTV to buy me one.


The key is can you get a Sat C signal on both receivers at the same time? I think I can get it on one or the other. For me I can only get SHOHD on one receiver but down the road I think it will be aproblem for me.
 
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