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As a little bit of background, my wife and I moved into a brand new home with a "builder spec" basement in December 2012. Normally, I would've opted to not have the basement complete, but since this was one of many incentives, I decided to go ahead and have them do the work knowing I could change it up later. The basement size is roughly 2100sq ft, so, having it completed was really in my best interest since it included the rec room, exercise room, wet bar, etc. The flaw in their design is the waterfall staircase, which just isn't practical for the basement. Looks great in the upstairs foyer, not the best idea going between the main level and basement. Due to the waterfall staircase, the hallway is pushed outward creating a diagonal entrance to the storage room. Also, the storage room is much larger than it needs to be. Lastly, the "media room" they provide you is very small and has a wall with a couple feet of dead space behind it which could be better utilized.
With that said, I took to graph paper and many measurements to come up with a design. I used extensive research on this forum to guide me along decisions and also used the "Cinemar" theater as inspiration. In the corner of the unfinished storage room behind the theater is a 16u rack.
Here are some key specs:
1. Room width by the screen is 10ft, bumping out to 14ft midway in the room at the "T" and ending at 17ft in width on the back wall due to the angle I placed on the door.
2. Room length is 21ft
3. Room height is 9ft in the center from standard floor to ceiling. The soffit drops down 1ft, creating a 8ft ceiling below.
4. The platform is 12" in height with a 6" step. So, while standing on the platform, the 9ft ceiling is effectively, 8ft.
5. The soffit nearest to the door was required, there is a metal I-Beam that runs along the edge. The corner "T" below that soffit was one of the key areas I had to design the room around, a metal post that has to support that beam. The soffit on the other side of the room is design for aesthetics, in order to create balance from the required soffit. To point out, the far side soffit was the 2ft of unused dead space that I reclaimed from the original builder design.
6. The 16u rack is hard-wired back to my primary DEMARC point. The rack is on an independent switch and configured on its own subnet. All devices in my rack are hard-wired to the switch. (I prefer to hard-wire as much as possible and only use wireless if I need to.
7. The platform is angled identical to the curved seating arrangement. The viewing angle from the side seats is 30 degrees on center. Behind the second row seats 3ft of space between the back of the seats and the dry stack stone wall for accessibility.
Current Equipment:
Projector: JVC-DLA RS46
Receiver: Marantz SR5008
Speakers: Definitive Technology (7.2)
Subs: SVS PB2000
Screen: DragonFly 110" High Contrast
BluRay: Sony BDP-S3100
Seating: Palliser Elite (5), with Power/LED
Remote: URC-880, MRF-260 Base
Lighting: Primary lighting on URC dimmer #1 , stone wall lighting on URC Dimmer #2 , LED lighting on regular switch.
Two movie poster frames on the outside wall came from River City. I have positive things to say like others, but - they do require some tweaking depending on your layout. In my case, I have each plugged into a wall outlet I installed at a height to hide behind the box. I cut a hole in each box so the plug could easily plug in. My boxes sit flush against the wall, and the outlets they're plugged into are wired to a switch in the hall so that I can easily turn them on and off. Otherwise, these boxes do not have a on/off switch.
Here are final photos:
With that said, I took to graph paper and many measurements to come up with a design. I used extensive research on this forum to guide me along decisions and also used the "Cinemar" theater as inspiration. In the corner of the unfinished storage room behind the theater is a 16u rack.
Here are some key specs:
1. Room width by the screen is 10ft, bumping out to 14ft midway in the room at the "T" and ending at 17ft in width on the back wall due to the angle I placed on the door.
2. Room length is 21ft
3. Room height is 9ft in the center from standard floor to ceiling. The soffit drops down 1ft, creating a 8ft ceiling below.
4. The platform is 12" in height with a 6" step. So, while standing on the platform, the 9ft ceiling is effectively, 8ft.
5. The soffit nearest to the door was required, there is a metal I-Beam that runs along the edge. The corner "T" below that soffit was one of the key areas I had to design the room around, a metal post that has to support that beam. The soffit on the other side of the room is design for aesthetics, in order to create balance from the required soffit. To point out, the far side soffit was the 2ft of unused dead space that I reclaimed from the original builder design.
6. The 16u rack is hard-wired back to my primary DEMARC point. The rack is on an independent switch and configured on its own subnet. All devices in my rack are hard-wired to the switch. (I prefer to hard-wire as much as possible and only use wireless if I need to.
7. The platform is angled identical to the curved seating arrangement. The viewing angle from the side seats is 30 degrees on center. Behind the second row seats 3ft of space between the back of the seats and the dry stack stone wall for accessibility.
Current Equipment:
Projector: JVC-DLA RS46
Receiver: Marantz SR5008
Speakers: Definitive Technology (7.2)
Subs: SVS PB2000
Screen: DragonFly 110" High Contrast
BluRay: Sony BDP-S3100
Seating: Palliser Elite (5), with Power/LED
Remote: URC-880, MRF-260 Base
Lighting: Primary lighting on URC dimmer #1 , stone wall lighting on URC Dimmer #2 , LED lighting on regular switch.
Two movie poster frames on the outside wall came from River City. I have positive things to say like others, but - they do require some tweaking depending on your layout. In my case, I have each plugged into a wall outlet I installed at a height to hide behind the box. I cut a hole in each box so the plug could easily plug in. My boxes sit flush against the wall, and the outlets they're plugged into are wired to a switch in the hall so that I can easily turn them on and off. Otherwise, these boxes do not have a on/off switch.
Here are final photos:
