Scheimpflug on Dwin HD700, help!!! Fourth of right side ever so out of focus :(
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I just adjusted Scheimpflug on my Barco 708s (7" ES), and it noticeably improved my top corner focus. Not sure if the process is the same for your Dwin, but I had to remove the lenses to gain free access to the rings. Set width, then popped everything back on. Much easier than expected.
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The Scheimpflug adjustment on the HD700 is **incredibly** lame. I suggest that before messing with it, you verify your mechanical setup is 100% perfect. If the projector isn't perfectly square/perpendicular to the screen, you'll have problems with left-to-right focus.
Are all three colors out of focus on the right side? If so, that definitely indicates a problem with your mech setup. Try tweaking the projector's angle to improve it.
If only one color has this problem, and the other two are OK, then you need to adjust the Scheimpflug on that color. Here's an incredibly bad picture to try to illustrate how it works.
The HD700 has 4 bolts that come out from a rear mounting plate. The lenses slide onto these bolts. There are 4 "rear" nuts (red in the picture) that hold the lenses at a particular distance. You slide the lenses onto the bolts (BE CAREFUL that you don't scratch the back of the lenses with the ends of the bolts!!!), then you hold the lenses in place with another set of 4 "front" nuts (green).
To adjust the Scheimpflug angle, you twiddle the rear (red) nuts to change the angle of the lenses. So e.g. in your situation you would move the two rear nuts (on one side or the other) back a turn or two, and tighten up the front nuts. So e.g. if you moved the two rear bolts on the LEFT side of the lens, that would turn the lens slightly towards the left.
It's a pretty cheezy design, and it's a PITA to get your fingers back in there, but it does work.
Gary
Are all three colors out of focus on the right side? If so, that definitely indicates a problem with your mech setup. Try tweaking the projector's angle to improve it.
If only one color has this problem, and the other two are OK, then you need to adjust the Scheimpflug on that color. Here's an incredibly bad picture to try to illustrate how it works.
The HD700 has 4 bolts that come out from a rear mounting plate. The lenses slide onto these bolts. There are 4 "rear" nuts (red in the picture) that hold the lenses at a particular distance. You slide the lenses onto the bolts (BE CAREFUL that you don't scratch the back of the lenses with the ends of the bolts!!!), then you hold the lenses in place with another set of 4 "front" nuts (green).
To adjust the Scheimpflug angle, you twiddle the rear (red) nuts to change the angle of the lenses. So e.g. in your situation you would move the two rear nuts (on one side or the other) back a turn or two, and tighten up the front nuts. So e.g. if you moved the two rear bolts on the LEFT side of the lens, that would turn the lens slightly towards the left.
It's a pretty cheezy design, and it's a PITA to get your fingers back in there, but it does work.
Gary
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After reading and posting to your request on another long thread on the Dwin, I'm not sure why you're asking these questions here. It was made quite clear about the limitations of the Dwin. The way the lenses were attached to the unit proves that no real thought went into a flapping system. And trust me, you're not the first person to try and get it to focus much better out to the edges. And being one who has worked with with and on them, I can tell you that it can be done. However, it's not going to be easy or quick. If I could guess, it may take you about a month of your free time. mainly because whenever you play around with flapping on a setup that it was not designed for. It's very easy to either move the lens too far away from the CRT's, or too close. When that happens, it takes forever to get things back to where they need to be..
I would suggest that you follow what Gary had suggested, in that you make sure the projector is square to the screen and that it's mounted using the Dwin method in the manual. It's an ES focus machine, and I'm sure that's why Dwin did not invest too much in flapping.
After reading and posting to your request on another long thread on the Dwin, I'm not sure why you're asking these questions here. It was made quite clear about the limitations of the Dwin. The way the lenses were attached to the unit proves that no real thought went into a flapping system. And trust me, you're not the first person to try and get it to focus much better out to the edges. And being one who has worked with with and on them, I can tell you that it can be done. However, it's not going to be easy or quick. If I could guess, it may take you about a month of your free time. mainly because whenever you play around with flapping on a setup that it was not designed for. It's very easy to either move the lens too far away from the CRT's, or too close. When that happens, it takes forever to get things back to where they need to be..
I would suggest that you follow what Gary had suggested, in that you make sure the projector is square to the screen and that it's mounted using the Dwin method in the manual. It's an ES focus machine, and I'm sure that's why Dwin did not invest too much in flapping.
Hahahahaha... is your Dwin for sale yet? You and your wife both need to be more patient. It takes TIME to set these things up, and even MORE TIME to learn how to set them up. Most of us on this forum have been at it for a few years and we're still learning. If you can't be patient with this then you need to switch to a digital. They've gotten better you know...
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-Mark
Hahahahaha... is your Dwin for sale yet? You and your wife both need to be more patient. It takes TIME to set these things up, and even MORE TIME to learn how to set them up. Most of us on this forum have been at it for a few years and we're still learning. If you can't be patient with this then you need to switch to a digital. They've gotten better you know...
-Mark
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