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Discussion Starter #1
I just completed my media room upgrades, (new paint, acoustic treatments, and Atmos upgrades), so now looking to add some woofrage as my little MK V-75 is getting a little tired. Decided to take the DIY route this time. After looking over some of the options I decided to build two V.B.S.S. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2226642-v-b-s-s-diy-subwoofer-design-thread.html

It was stated in another thread it is a good idea to start a build thread before construction to solicit ideas and feedback, so here it is.

I have a 24x13 media room that as an open door way so I thought 2 of these would be a good start. Initial thought is to put them up front and actually they would be tall enough put the fronts on and take out the speaker stand. Trouble is I just bought those not too long ago, :rolleyes: oh well. I may move them around the room to check response so they might not stay up front.

Figured I would model them before building them to get a better idea of construction as well as decided on how I wanted them to look. Not deviating to far from the original, dimensions, speaker, port, etc. will be the same. Decided to have a little fun with the bracing, though. The cross bracing will just be solid pieces of MDF with windows cut out of them. The other thing I am looking at doing is rounding the side edges on the cabinet. I have one of those Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jigs so will use that throughout the cabinet in addition to glue.

My one outstanding question is how to finish the front. My plan is to paint them black to match the Polks I have, or to at least get close. I thought about making a cover using the GOM fabric used for some of the acoustic panels in the room (same fabric as the corner bass trap in the picture). I kind of like the round cover but a full frontal cover doesn’t look too bad either.

Cheers!
 

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Those little polks are gonna have to put in some work to keep up with a pair of 18s. The max spl of the 18s might be 25-30db higher. But you started with the right upgrade first. Once your lungs get a good coating of sawdust you'll be back for more anyways.

All of the finishes you drew up look nice.

Subs under the fronts would probably be the best even if they don't perform the best in those spots at least for now. When directly under the fronts you'll be able to crossover much higher taking some stress off the fronts. I wouldn't be afraid to try as high as 150hz with those PA460s. They should play clean well beyond that.
 

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Take time and do a sub crawl one day when you have time while playing bass heavy music.
Rooms generally have one or two golden spots for sub placement.

I am a sucker for using subs as speakers stands for the LR speaker though.
Nice work on the acoustic treatments and atmos speakers.
 

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congrats on the build, the design and thinking wrt ROI is awesome work

how are you powering them/ inuke3000 dsp?

as you are advancing , you owe it to yourself to get the REW usual set up,

it will give you what you need to know to go forward and get the most for what you have . . .
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Those little polks are gonna have to put in some work to keep up with a pair of 18s. The max spl of the 18s might be 25-30db higher. But you started with the right upgrade first. Once your lungs get a good coating of sawdust you'll be back for more anyways.

All of the finishes you drew up look nice.

Subs under the fronts would probably be the best even if they don't perform the best in those spots at least for now. When directly under the fronts you'll be able to crossover much higher taking some stress off the fronts. I wouldn't be afraid to try as high as 150hz with those PA460s. They should play clean well beyond that.
Yes, I certainly want to upgrade the center at some point so would almost have to do L & R at the same time. Perhaps if the subs go well I will DIY them too. Thanks for the feedback on the x-over. I will try a wider range of values once these are done, particularly if I end up leaving the subs near the front speakers.

Take time and do a sub crawl one day when you have time while playing bass heavy music.
Rooms generally have one or two golden spots for sub placement.

I am a sucker for using subs as speakers stands for the LR speaker though.
Nice work on the acoustic treatments and atmos speakers.
Thanks for the kind words, it was fun turning the room into my own scifi theater. For reference here is the back wall, still some more thinks to do down the road. I need to hide the wires and build two more bass traps.

I plan to do something like a crawl like this in combination with REW measurements. My plan was to start up front as I thought I was limited on where they can go. However now that I think about it if they were a little taller I could use them as stands for the surrounds. Hmm, maybe I need four of these :D


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
congrats on the build, the design and thinking wrt ROI is awesome work

how are you powering them/ inuke3000 dsp?

as you are advancing , you owe it to yourself to get the REW usual set up,

it will give you what you need to know to go forward and get the most for what you have . . .
Thanks! My plan was to use the 3000. Actually was going to post a parts list for review before ording, just to make sure I didn't forget something.

I do have REW and a miniDSP UMIK-1 USB. It helped me to confirm I needed treatment on the ceiling and back wall. Since the room is wide the side reflections aren't much of problem. It also showed I need more bass trap so one reason I am going to build two for the back corner.

Cheers!
 

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my own DIY fandom bias, but

my LCR of 2 Fusion 15's and the 88 Special, kicks ass, takes names and chews gum,
and I'm all out of gum . . .

if you have the budget, a serious consideration and you like doing the homework, we can tell

happy listening
 
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Discussion Starter #9
So going to stay with the standard V.B.S.S. build since they will be up front initially. The stands are 32" so the V.B.S.S. subs can slide right in at 31.5". But I will keep the stands just in case I end up moving the subs.

Instead of using C-clamps and a straight edge as a guide for my circular saw I am considering getting one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Bora-541050-Circular-Clamping-Straight/dp/B0045UBFSC?ie=UTF8&colid=7MO0BV95A1EI&coliid=I3A1GAZFWUC6HD&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

Wonder if anyone has experience with using these and what to look for in one?

Here is my shopping list for PE, am I forgetting anything? Getting the iNUKE NU3000DSP from another place.


Part # 242-5020 Audio-Technica AT700-10 14 AWG Speakon Speaker Cable 10 ft. x 2
Part # 092-054 Neutrik NL4MPR Speakon Connector 4 Pole Round Chassis Mount x 2
Part # 268-352 Precision Port 4" Flared Speaker Cabinet Port Tube Kit x 4
Part # 295-036 Dayton Audio PA460-8 18" Pro Woofer x 2

Next, figure out how I am going to cut out the holes use my old router or get a new one? ;)

Cheers!
 

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MILESCRAFT makes a great router combo set up for about $40 at Lowes last time I checked, google it up

my not so new router, no issues, a new 1/2" mortising bit, 1/4" shank, will be a welcome addition for ease

use scrap to dial in the correct diameter

for 3/4 ply it seemed like about 10 , maybe 12 shallow passes never over taxes the router or subjects the bit to too much heat build up

does the VBSS take a double front baffle, I don't recall at this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
MILESCRAFT makes a great router combo set up for about $40 at Lowes last time I checked, google it up

my not so new router, no issues, a new 1/2" mortising bit, 1/4" shank, will be a welcome addition for ease

use scrap to dial in the correct diameter

for 3/4 ply it seemed like about 10 , maybe 12 shallow passes never over taxes the router or subjects the bit to too much heat build up

does the VBSS take a double front baffle, I don't recall at this time.
Thanks for the tips! I wonder do you drill out a hole to start the router in?
 

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So going to stay with the standard V.B.S.S. build since they will be up front initially. The stands are 32" so the V.B.S.S. subs can slide right in at 31.5". But I will keep the stands just in case I end up moving the subs.



Instead of using C-clamps and a straight edge as a guide for my circular saw I am considering getting one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Bora-541050-Circular-Clamping-Straight/dp/B0045UBFSC?ie=UTF8&colid=7MO0BV95A1EI&coliid=I3A1GAZFWUC6HD&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl



Wonder if anyone has experience with using these and what to look for in one?




Cheers!


YES on the Bora edge, it's incredible and I couldn't do wood working w/o one. I would skip their "sliding saw cradle", you don't need that, any saw will ride happily against the Bora edge.

Here was me a few days ago with mine =)

 

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^

+1

i own several sizes, including one 8' , really great for full sheets

OTOH I also have a full sized panel saw, makes every full sized sheet a "handi-panel" except for the hernia
 

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there's a VBSS build just recently where the guy has a design that uses built in square ports, ( sanctioned by LTD02, none the less) as he also could not get the PE parts

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I got side tracked and just got back on this project. I have all the parts and started cutting last weekend. Took my time and used the Bora as a guide for the saw. It works great, highly recommend it. Got all the cabinet panels cut, still need to do the bracing. Also need to make a jig so I can router out the holes.

Also found a 18" screen at Parts Express that I think will look cool. Figured it gives the subs a more industrial look.

http://www.parts-express.com/18-waffle-style-black-steel-speaker-grill-with-rubber-edge--260-376

Cheers!
 

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I had forgotten about those grills . . .

which mounting kit do you be getting?

TY
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This past week I managed to glue the sides and top. Only had one bar clamp and band that would fit to use on the cabinets. So not wanting to spend bucks on more clamps I made use of my Kreg Jig. I glued the surfaces and used the band clamp to hold it together. Then used the bar clamp to hold a section tight until I could put the screw in then moved on to the next section. Seems to have worked out well, they are nice and sturdy.

Keep thinking about how do the bracing differently. Then it hit me, I had board left over from cutting the ends that was exactly the same width as the ends, (labeled #6 in the cut list in the original thread. I cut the edge so it ended it being 22" x 10.25" and this ends up behind the driver. I also used the board that was being used for the bracing (labeled 7-11 in the cut list). Left it at 11 3/4" wide and cut it to 22" long and it goes above the ports. I cut out windows in these boards and then glued and screwed them in. The cuts provides some long thin pieces I could use for the vertical bracing.

Next I need to cut the holes for the driver and ports. I am going to put the front on first so I can screw it to the brace and edges from the back. Then I will screw and glue on the back.

Cheers!
 

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