[mjg100]

My Center Stage XD material arrived today. I did the following to convert my Elunevision screen to an AT screen:


1. Removed the fabric from the frame.


2. Took the frame apart so that I could remove the screen tension screws.


3. Screwed (cut to fit) 1-1/2" "Screen Tight" to the back side of the frame.


4. Angled 10' long x 8' high XD fabric onto my 106" 16/9 frame.


5. Attached screen to frame using 1/8" screen bead.


6. Attached "Screen Tight" cap and cut off excess fabric.


7. Hung frame back on wall.


Real easy transformation. Only took me about 2-1/2 hours.



Materials used

four pieces of 1-1/2" Screen Tight www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=21532-958-BASE18&lpage=none


Four pieces of 1-1/2" Screen Tight cap www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=21553-958-BRCAP18&lpage=none


1/2" pan head tek screws (these are not the ones I used. I have some in inventory at the office) www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/3636487


1/8" screen bead www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=39173-55-3007734&lpage=none


My picture taking is not very good, but here they are anyway,
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0567.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0568.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0569.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0570.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0571.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0573.jpg


Easy to convert any Aluminum frame for spline fit of fabric. I would probably use this method if I was building a frame from wood. When you snap the cap onto the "Screen Tight" base it holds the fabric tight to the back side of the frame. My splined material fits tighter to the back of the frame than the original fastening system that Elunevision used. Picture quality is very good. No moire either. Love having the voices coming from the screen rather than below the screen. Highly recommend this type of install.

 

[LTD02]

great job!


great writeup!

 

[oman321]

Nice job mjg100, turned out really great.


Hears a tip for you on imbedding your pics. On your photobucket account just click the fourth option below each picture. This will copy the picture info for you, then you just paste it in your text box here and the image will show up like so.

 

[mjg100]

I have done that and posted many pictures. I just am not very good at taking pictures. The above picture is not at all representative of what the projected image looks like. In other words I can build just about anything, but I can't take a good picture to save my life.

I will say one thing. The XD material has very little stretch to it. The spline that I used could have been a little bit bigger and if I was just relying on the spline to hold the screen in place I would have used a larger spline. Using the "Screen Tight" cap locked the spline in place.

 

[Jrek]

Well, I think I'm going to try your method with my Carada screen frame,using the sey. av screen mat. any little tips or anything I should know before atempting this,I was really hoping I would'nt have to waste my screen frame,and your idea seems like exactly what I've been waiting for to make me think I can actually do this myself without wasting my frame. Thanks for any advise you may have, Jim

 

[mjg100]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrek /forum/post/17208054


Well, I think I'm going to try your method with my Carada screen frame,using the sey. av screen mat. any little tips or anything I should know before atempting this,I was really hoping I would'nt have to waste my screen frame,and your idea seems like exactly what I've been waiting for to make me think I can actually do this myself without wasting my frame. Thanks for any advise you may have, Jim

I am not the first guy to use Screen Tight. I posted (Seymour thread) about using Screen Tight (post 556) or just using a wood frame with a splining groove. I had about decided on using the wood frame and another poster brought up Screen Tight (post 571) saying he had used it. After I pulled my old frame down and found that there was a recess in the back, I decided to use the Screen Tight strip. There was a lip and the wood frame would not sit flat. My only concern using the Screen Tight strip was the 1/4" gap it would leave between the screen and the back of the frame. I looked at the cap that fits on the Screen Tight and decided that it would solve that problem. Also the cap helps lock the spline in place.


As for any tips:

Angle material as much as possible just to be on the safe side.

Do not spline one whole side. Switch back and forth.

Spline each side so that you are pulling on the same threads. Remember threads are angled since material is angled.

Do not fully seat the spline until you have installed all of the spline. Doing this will take out minor ripples.

I would use the Screen Tight cap to help lock in the spline.

If you have any big wrinkles, just pull spline and redo.

Re-hang screen and enjoy.

 

[mjg100]

If I was to do this again, I think I would do it differently. My frame has a channel on the back side that 3/16" machine nuts will slide into. I think I would buy a bunch of nuts and place them in each frame piece. Then I would install 3/16" x 1/2" Philips head machine screws in each nut. Position the nuts evenly spaced around the frame. Once nuts are positioned, tighten the screws and that will lock them in place. This will give you posts all around your frame for connecting to your screen. Buy 1/4" grommets and installation kit. Fold the edge of the screen fabric (where the grommets are to be attached) and press with an iron to get a sharp edge. Probably would glue the fabric together. Install grommets to match location of posts. Purchase o-rings to connect screen to the posts on the frame. Adjust any posts that do not match up with the grommets. This method will give you constant tension on the screen.


Materials needed:

O-rings www.amazon.com/Black-Buna-O-Ring-Duro-Pack/dp/B000FMWNPS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1253450538&sr=1-5

1/4" grommet punch www.perfectfit.com/15337/154495/Grommets--Tools/Arch-Punch-for-cutting-grommet-holes.html

1/4" grommet kit www.amazon.com/General-Tools-71260-48PC-Grommet/dp/B000TGFSBG Use seperate punch for making the holes.

Nuts and machine screws are cheap if purchased from TSC www.tractorsupply.com/


This would give you a professionally installed screen that would give you years of trouble free service and it would be easily replaceable. It would work with all fabrics.

 

[Tom Bley]

That sounds like a great idea. This could work with a wood frame, right? Nice job on your screen! I have a sample of the XD material. Great screen material for the money and the only company that caters to DIY. Did you notice a lot of loss in the sound?

 

[mjg100]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Bley /forum/post/17212756


That sounds like a great idea. This could work with a wood frame, right? Nice job on your screen! I have a sample of the XD material. Great screen material for the money and the only company that caters to DIY. Did you notice a lot of loss in the sound?

Yes, both methods will work well with a wood frame. You could place wood screws around the frame to be used as posts and use the o-rings or you could use the spline method. As to sound. I did not notice any loss of sound, even before I ran the auto speaker set up with my AVR. I wish that I had more room. I would build a false wall and place all of my front speakers and subs behind it and install a large AT screen using masking.

 

[Jrek]

Well I did it,thanks for all your help,and also thanks to chris at seymour a/v. AWESOME is all I can say great great product and I would have never dreamed I could have this awesome AT screen.The sound as you know awesome with speakers all behind screen,but man the picture is unreal wow I have all black behind screen I don't know if that has anything to do with it,but I seem to have way better blacks and I'm also using a anamorphic lense and sony sxrd proj. and the picture just has a way more defined look to it I love it,wasn't really going for picture improvement,kinda was doing it for the sound but man what a bonus,again thanks for the help!!!

 

[mjg100]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrek /forum/post/17254031


Well I did it,thanks for all your help,and also thanks to chris at seymour a/v. AWESOME is all I can say great great product and I would have never dreamed I could have this awesome AT screen.The sound as you know awesome with speakers all behind screen,but man the picture is unreal wow I have all black behind screen I don't know if that has anything to do with it,but I seem to have way better blacks and I'm also using a anamorphic lense and sony sxrd proj. and the picture just has a way more defined look to it I love it,wasn't really going for picture improvement,kinda was doing it for the sound but man what a bonus,again thanks for the help!!!

You are welcome. great way to change an existing screen isn't it. Throw some pics up showing your front wall.

 

[mattsplat]

Sorry to dig up an old thread - I was actually directed here from SeymourAV's website.


Assuming you don't already have a screen - and would like to save money not purchasing a fully built model from SeymourAV - would you recommend purchasing a cheap aluminum screen and ditching the fabric, or building one from scratch? I like the aluminum look, and while I'm a fairly competent DIYer, it will be difficult to find the time to build a new screen. However, it does seem a waste of money to buy a perfectly good screen, then destroy it ...


Also - how did you end up placing the center behind the screen? I'd like the look of fixed screens but short of cutting a hole in the wall it's mounted on, not sure how to achieve that - is yours somehow hung from the ceiling or suspended from the wall? Would love to know how to do that...


Thanks mjg100!

 

[mjg100]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsplat /forum/post/19293217


Sorry to dig up an old thread - I was actually directed here from SeymourAV's website.


Assuming you don't already have a screen - and would like to save money not purchasing a fully built model from SeymourAV - would you recommend purchasing a cheap aluminum screen and ditching the fabric, or building one from scratch? I like the aluminum look, and while I'm a fairly competent DIYer, it will be difficult to find the time to build a new screen. However, it does seem a waste of money to buy a perfectly good screen, then destroy it ...


Also - how did you end up placing the center behind the screen? I'd like the look of fixed screens but short of cutting a hole in the wall it's mounted on, not sure how to achieve that - is yours somehow hung from the ceiling or suspended from the wall? Would love to know how to do that...


Thanks mjg100!

Sorry, I just now saw this post. I have a chase behind the screen wall. The chase is five feet wide in the middle of the room. I cut into this chase and created a nook for my center speaker. Since I have 3" sound panels on my front wall (center speaker is flush with sound panels) I installed 4-1/2"" of wood blocking on the wall to hold the screen out 5" (screws added 1/2") from the wall. Basically I do have a hole in the front wall.

 

[l.todd]

I came to this post from Seymour as well. I've got to tell you, I am not mechanically inclined and didn't understand much of your original description. The grommet description seems a little simpler, but I am a little leary. Was it pretty easy? BTW, I am also concerned about changing from a grey screen to the white. Did you switch from grey?

 

[nathan_h]

In another thread, the links were updated:

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5  /t/1515695/adapt-seymour-xd-material-to-a-stewart-snap-frame#post_24311088


It is called screen tight: http://www.lowes.com/pd_21532-958-BASE18_0__?productId=3024709

Here is the cap: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=21553-958-BRCAP18&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3024741&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Beading the screen in and then snapping the cap in place hold the screen tight as a drum.

You will need this tool: http://www.lowes.com/pd_169387-15369-71459_0__?productId=3138507&Ntt=porch+screening&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dporch%2Bscreening&facetInfo=

You will also need some screen spline: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=42302-15369-70062&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3094495&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=rel&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 I can't remember what size I used. It may be listed in the thread I posted earlier.

 

[Mike Garrett]



Quote:
Originally Posted by l.todd  /t/1180610/screen-conversion-elunevision-frame-with-center-stage-xd-material#post_19685465


I came to this post from Seymour as well. I've got to tell you, I am not mechanically inclined and didn't understand much of your original description. The grommet description seems a little simpler, but I am a little leary. Was it pretty easy? BTW, I am also concerned about changing from a grey screen to the white. Did you switch from grey?

It is pretty simple to do. Best thing about it, if you do not get all the wrinkles out or not enough tension on the fabric, you just pull the spline and do it again. With a grommet in the wrong place, you can't re-do it. No moving it over to the correct spot.

 

[ellisr63]



Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5  /t/1180610/screen-conversion-elunevision-frame-with-center-stage-xd-material#post_24312721


It is pretty simple to do. Best thing about it, if you do not get all the wrinkles out or not enough tension on the fabric, you just pull the spline and do it again. With a grommet in the wrong place, you can't re-do it. No moving it over to the correct spot.

If you use "T" channel extrude aluminum... All you have to do is loosen the screw and move it over a bit from what I understand. That is how I am going to try mine.

 

[yaroufanch]

agree with you,There was a lip and the wood frame would not sit flat. My only concern using the Screen Tight strip was the 1/4" gap it would leave between the screen and the back of the frame. I looked at the cap that fits on the Screen Tight and decided that it would solve that problem. Also the cap helps lock the spline in place.thanks

 

[ComradeBrehznev]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsplat /forum/post/19293217


Sorry to dig up an old thread - I was actually directed here from SeymourAV's website.


Assuming you don't already have a screen - and would like to save money not purchasing a fully built model from SeymourAV - would you recommend purchasing a cheap aluminum screen and ditching the fabric, or building one from scratch? I like the aluminum look, and while I'm a fairly competent DIYer, it will be difficult to find the time to build a new screen. However, it does seem a waste of money to buy a perfectly good screen, then destroy it ...


Also - how did you end up placing the center behind the screen? I'd like the look of fixed screens but short of cutting a hole in the wall it's mounted on, not sure how to achieve that - is yours somehow hung from the ceiling or suspended from the wall? Would love to know how to do that...


Thanks mjg100!

Sorry, I just now saw this post. I have a chase behind the screen wall. The chase is five feet wide in the middle of the room. I cut into this chase and created a nook for my center speaker. Since I have 3" sound panels on my front wall (center speaker is flush with sound panels) I installed 4-1/2"" of wood blocking on the wall to hold the screen out 5" (screws added 1/2") from the wall. Basically I do have a hole in the front wall.

So which side of the screen material did you use? Seymour says either one, but one side has a higher profile of the pattern.

 

[Mike Garrett]

So which side of the screen material did you use? Seymour says either one, but one side has a higher profile of the pattern.

Does not matter which side. From looking closely at the fabric, one side sticks out more, but the side that appears smoother, just has a deeper inset. So actual smoothness is the same. You just don't see and feel it as much when running your hand over it. My old name was mjg100. I did the screen conversion.