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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,


I'm not a home theater guru or anything of the sort. However, i do want the best image for my epson 6500ub. I've been using just a white paint but i know this is like a big no no. Anyway i want something that isnt going to wash out my image and ruin color saturation. I've been reading a little about screen goo, but i don't know how it stacks up against a mixed paint like black widow. Anyway i was hoping you guys could help as a lot of you ARE home theater gurus. Should i order screen goo? Or mix some paint myself. Thanks for the help.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasAquinas /forum/post/16991267


Hey guys,


I'm not a home theater guru or anything of the sort. However, i do want the best image for my epson 6500ub. I've been using just a white paint but i know this is like a big no no. Anyway i want something that isnt going to wash out my image and ruin color saturation. I've been reading a little about screen goo, but i don't know how it stacks up against a mixed paint like black widow. Anyway i was hoping you guys could help as a lot of you ARE home theater gurus. Should i order screen goo? Or mix some paint myself. Thanks for the help.

You don't mention a few important facts that helps all of our esteemed selves conjure up something for you to consider that is a bit more impressive than the status goo....er, quo.


Goo is expensive....and works best if sprayed. There is that to consider..... Take heed of a good DIY solution, and you can buy a great Spray Rig and still save money over the original cost of Goo.


DIY applications just as good or better than GOO have existed before, during, and after that product's inception, and the most expensive of those still falls far short of Goo's expense. The majority of them will be above reproach if sprayed, some are excellent even if simply rolled.


You "could mix" some paint yourself....but unless your considering getting into "developer mode", I might suggest you take a few suggestions.


Let's narrow down the field.


You have a 6500ub. Good PJ. Above average native contrast. Exceptional Dynamic contrast. Offers it's most detail rendering when minimum implementation of the Iris is practiced. Brightness is higher though, so the use of a appropriate shade of Gray is advisable to achieve pleasing Black levels without undue/virtually any crushing of Whites.


You been using a white wall. Your already used to a contrasty image, one whose white are undoubtedly almost "too bright" unless your running in Low Lamp Economy mode.


"Washing out" isn't what you really mean...that pertains to a screen's image losing contrast, with blacks going to a light gray and colors looking almost "Pastel-like" because the level of ambient...or the presence of directed lighting is overpowering the projected lumens coming from the PJ.


Your used to a brilliant image, and desire better blacks, but you do not want your image to take on a "Dull, grayish looking Whites and crushed, non saturated looking Colors" viewing aspect.


So tell us more about your room.


Room Dimensions

Desired size of Screen

PJ Throw distance

Light Controlled? (...no windows or adequate shades?)

Area lighting (lamps-Cans)to be employed during showtime?

Ceiling color directly over the screen?


With all those answers, virtually any regular on DIY Screens can suggest a solution "as good or better" than Goo "performance" wise. ALL of 'em would be 1/2 as expensive or less...some....ridiculously less.


Give DIY the chance it deserves...save money....take more credit..
...and get exceptional results.


Sound great? Then answer those questions already!!! You've got a great PJ. Let get you settled into a great screen before next weekend. (22nd-23rd) or sooner !
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok...wow...I feel a bit in over my head haha. Ok lets see where to being.


throw dist is 14' with an image of 120"

viewing distance is about 12'

totally light controlled room (except for LEDs on equipment)

ceiling color is off white


thanks for the help, your description of "Dull, grayish looking Whites and crushed, non saturated looking Colors," is exactly what i don't want and what i'm getting now. thanks for the help i hope i provided enough info.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasAquinas /forum/post/16991676


Ok...wow...I feel a bit in over my head haha. Ok lets see where to being.


throw dist is 14' with an image of 120"

viewing distance is about 12'

Ok....you'll do fine in that respect @ 16 fl

Quote:
totally light controlled room (except for LEDs on equipment)

ceiling color is off white

That last item is a little less than optimal, and perhaps a bit even less so with 120" diagonal on a 8' high wall (...missing ceiling height...) To minimize reflection off the ceiling, the top edge of the screen should be at least 12" to 14" away. Since a 120"er is 59" high "inside measured", if you stretched the equation a bit and placed the screen's edge 16" below the ceiling, the total of screen height & placement distance amounts to 76" (rounded)


That leaves 20" from Floor to the bottom of the screen. That's plenty...actually a very impressive, immersive image...but serves well only if you have just one row of seating.


This is a 122"er at 20" off the floor. Silver Fire HG (light Fusion variety) in fairly high ambient light





Quote:
thanks for the help, your description of "Dull, grayish looking Whites and crushed, non saturated looking Colors," is exactly what i don't want and what i'm getting now. thanks for the help i hope i provided enough info.

Zingy, snappy, "PoPPy" colors are...as I said...easy. Whites can be maintained as being very brilliant, but with any Gray that is substancially dark enough to readily combat excessive ambient light (meattlaic screens included...) against a direct comparison to a matte white surface. they will look somewhat gray-er. Less so with the right mix...as seen above obviously, and that is a High Gain variety (est. 1.4) and it does extremely well in ambient lights as shown.


The PJ used in that image is a Panny AX100u that specs as being brighter than the Epson 6500ub, but falls considerably below the mark "Contrast" wise to the latter, and that specification is extremely important when judging the difference between the "whitest whites and blackest black" you see on a screen in any viewing condition.


You have total light control so the job becomes far easier to accomplish that even what you see above.


We have your needs covered. Just make a decision as to what you really want...and we'll get you started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

Quote:
We have your needs covered. Just make a decision as to what you really want...and we'll get you started.

Im sorry, how do i respond to what i really want? =D

um brillant whites with colors that pop. Right now my colors are really dull and seem to have no saturation. i guess i want the opposite. I am at your mercy as i really have no idea where to begin.


by the way...this will have to be rolled on. I'm assuming that may make a little? difference as to which paint i use. Thanks for your help, im a true newb with this stuff but I want a slick home theater =D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you so much for all your help!


Now for the ultra newb question, and i know i might get made fun of for this, but i want to get it right..hah


Anyway...do I apply a basecoat on the wall before the maxxmudd? or do I apply the maxxmudd directly. And if a basecoat should be used, what do i use for the basecoat. I really appreciate all your time and help.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasAquinas /forum/post/16993150


Thank you so much for all your help!


Now for the ultra newb question, and i know i might get made fun of for this, but i want to get it right..hah


Anyway...do I apply a basecoat on the wall before the maxxmudd? or do I apply the maxxmudd directly. And if a basecoat should be used, what do i use for the basecoat. I really appreciate all your time and help.



Your cool.


A Bright White Base Coat, either Kilz-2 Primer or Behr Interior Flat Enamel (...both Water based...) Rolled on smooth, and sanded if necessary.


Above all else you want every coat of whatever your rolling to go on smoothly, and leave no perceptible Roller Marks.


.....or you could spray, ya know. And obtain "Saintly" perfection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hehe.


Sorry im kind of young, I have ZERO painting experience as a 18 year old. Regardless, my situation is that my dad gave me a few grand and said build a HT in the basement. So i've gotten everything within a reasonable price point, and now all that is left is the screen. Thank you for your help.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasAquinas /forum/post/16993618


hehe.


Sorry im kind of young, I have ZERO painting experience as a 18 year old. Regardless, my situation is that my dad gave me a few grand and said build a HT in the basement. So i've gotten everything within a reasonable price point, and now all that is left is the screen. Thank you for your help.

Tom,


Really...you should consider the $55.00 Wagner Control Spray Double Duty or the $88.50 Wagner Control Spray Plus.


Either will allow a inexperienced Guy to obtain virtually perfect results that could well escape you when rolling, which is EXACTLY what you want (...and the latter you DON'T WANT....) when making a large, highly reflective Screen surface. And considering that they both can be used for painting projects that are going to come up in the HT and elsewhere....how can you resist?!!?.


Dad would applaud your wisdom...I'm sure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well The walls are also off white. I'm trying to convince my dad to paint them but it is very unlikely. I am going to have to deal with this fact.


I think that i am going to stick with rolling, though thanks for the spraying suggestion.


My setup is an epson 6500ub with a 14' throw.


The room is actually split in two by a pole in the center of the room. So the room itself is actually 30' deep, however only 14' is used for the theater. There are lights in back of the projector which my dad sometimes uses for Notre Dame football games, but really we rarely keep them on. Basically this room is totally light controlled, there is one tiny window which there is a shade that completely blocks all light. The room itself is in the basement. The only lights visible are those from equipment (A/V Receiver, Blu Ray, equip like that).


So i'm looking for the most pop, best whites in a light controlled room from an epson 6500ub. The screen also will be rolled on, i highly highly doubt i will end up purchasing spray equipment. Thank you for the help. If a metallic is not the way to go, then obviously i will go with the best/easiest choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well then, what should i look for? what shade do you recommend for my setup? Can you tell me exactly what i need to buy? I have all the rolling equipment, i basically just need the paints. And i think i might want to try the satin mix. How exactly do i mix the two? Also how many coats should I apply and what kind of basecoat do i need? I know i know, a lot of questions. But i want to do it right the first time, you know? Thanks a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
you know, it completely slipped my mind. I never mentioned what i am currently using as a screen paint. Right now (all that we had in our basement) i have rolled a screen using Glidden evermore interior enamel satin pure white latex paint. I dunno if this is an acceptable basecoat or what, but just letting you know as i have left this fact out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ya that looks perfect. Im glad that the glidden will make a good base. Home Depot and Lowes are both the same dist from me. As lowes has the satin, i guess ill just go there. What exactly should i ask for when going to lowes?
 

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I was checking out my Lowe's and was going to make a similar mix to this and was buying a gallon of the Valspar Ultra Premium 100% Acrylic Latex Interior Flat Enamel Finish. On the bottom of the can it says Flat Enamel Ultra White 213484. I saw in thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=14141250 they were using Flat Base 210170. Does this make a difference? Is the right one 210170 and not 213484?

I asked them to make a gallon of Winter Mountain and they did, but came up with different numbers than what was on the thread noted above.

Are the numbers in the noted thread only good for that base, and the ones I got : 101-32.5, 107-4, 109-2.5 still simulate Winter Mountain in this base?


Not trying to hijack the thread, but if you are buying the Valspar base at Lowes, this may be important.


I just called them and they said their Flat Base 1 is number 210159. Still different than the noted thread, and different than the one I bought... don't screw up like i did
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregt93 /forum/post/16996159


Not trying to hijack the thread

You didn't. Tiddler beat you to it.



ThomasAquinas is both young and a total Noob. Obviously impressionable as well. Too bad he might not get to experience a superior DIY application after all.



For what it may be worth, ThomasAquinas.....you should reconsider your options. In no manner or way will you realize the performance in the "post suggested application" that you would with RS_MaxxMudd, and that includes if you decide to roll instead of spray.


Neutral Grays absolutely HAVE to contain Poly to ramp up their potential and make them more tractable to roll and get decent finishes. But they still will lack metallics, and that Young Sir is ALL the difference.


Your young, but obviously still aware of things enough to have managed to make a previous screen with white paint...so don't let anyone convince you that you have to drag your feet by hedging your bet as to if you could manage something even better. Bluntly put...I would not have suggested it to you, nor would I to anyone...if it wasn't both superior to simple Neutral Grays w/Poly (...note that RS_Maxx has Poly too...and had it "first"....) and is just as easy to roll, if indeed not more so. Thing is, I never made the attempt to switch you off anything but GOO, which is decidedly harder to work with that either of the aforementioned.


Good luck at whatever you decide to do....but don't choose anything that sells your effort short.


By my reckoning...that make your decision an easy one.
 

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Sorry MississippiMan.


Please excuse the intrusion.


I have withdrawn from the field.
 

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Gregt93,


At the time when I purchased that quart of Winter Mist from Lowes they did not have the color in there system so I had to call Valspar direct and had someone there scan the Tru-Value color swatch and this is the base and code she told us to use.


It does create a light grey paint so I can't be sure if it is correct or not. I can say when I did up a sample board and compared it to my standard primed wall I found that my primer was performing better for me.


I have a Epson 1080UB and have tried Winter Mist, Winter Mountain, Black Widow, and am currently getting ready to try Silver Fire - Lite.
 
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