[fish]

hi every one,

I've just bought 1 litre each of crt white screen goo and i am going to spray it with a compressor spray gun on a 2050mm x 1150 mm screen that will be a mbf board with a layer of white primer


is the amount i have enough?


should i cover my board with block out material or just paint directly onto the board. (which gives best results?)


what do i thin it down with and at what ratio to goo?


best pressure and distance?


do i spray a base coat (2 layers) then 2 layers of top coat or do I mix the base and top coat for the final layers?


i have a sony crt 1252

love any input before i start

cheers

fish

 

[joebwan]

Quote:

Originally posted by fish hi every one, I've just bought 1 litre each of CRT white screen goo and I am going to spray it with a compressor spray gun on a 2050mm x 1150 mm (81" x 45" for the metrically challenged) screen that will be a MDF board with a layer of white primer. Is the amount I have enough? Should I cover my board with block out material or just paint directly onto the board. (which gives best results?) What do I thin it down with and at what ratio to goo? Best pressure and distance? Do I spray a base coat (2 layers) then 2 layers of top coat or do I mix the base and top coat for the final layers?[/list=1] I have a Sony CRT 1252. Love any input before I start.

1. 
   I realise you probably bought your Goo locally, but Ken supplies a FAQ/Info sheet with his product. There is a post by Ken, here in the screen forum, where he posted the FAQ which answers all these Qs and more. Perhaps you could try a search using Hotte as a keyword. If nothing else it should turn up a load of interesting reading.
   
   
   The only question I can definitely answer for you is Q2. No, you don't need to cover your MDF with Blackout. Just go ahead and apply the base coat directly to the MDF.

 

[diadore78]

1 Litre for your screen size (around 95") should be enough for you as many people do fine with painting a 100" screen.


Painting/Spraying onto the mdf is perfectly fine since its surface is known to be very flat. Very cheap and effective screen material, only bad side is that its a little heavy.


Water is fine for thinning the coating. Make sure you dont put too much in it, just a liltle bit is fine.


Distance and pressure is determined on your room conditions, whether it is humid or not. What your trying to aim for is a "wet" and "misty" look when you are spraying it. I suppose if you have experience in spraying this shouldn't be too hard for you.


Spray the base coat, let it dry then spray the second bass coat layer and let that dry. Spray the top coat again letting it dry and finally spray the final top coat.


The gain on the screen should be around 1.5 but it may be higher if you do multiple lighter coats. The screen after 1 week of curing should be quite good already as most of the transition takes place then.


One important thing, make sure when you think your spray gun is about to run out, re-fill it or stop spraying...if you spray until the last drop, spray guns tend to blot out paint when it runs out and it will damage your screen and you may have to start again.


You should have gotten instructions on how to apply the CRT coating. Sorry about that, I will make sure that instructions are in each KIT on spraying/rolling techniques for best results.

 

[fish]

thanks, guys, had a good read of the posts (the many posts!) on the forum and feel im ready to go.

cant wait to get it completed

fish

 

[AAVI]

I personally do not have experience in Spraying of any sorts. But this is what i give out based on compilations from Ken's (goo systems) past threads and FAQ.


But i'm sure you will find a wealth of information from the avsforum.



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Coats

2 thin layers of BASECOAT

2 thin layers of TOPCOAT


Allow each coat to dry before spraying the next coat. Drying time will vary depending on environment. Try to get a “mist†type spray to get it as smooth texture as possible. More coats maybe needed if it is still too translucent. We’ll leave it up to you.



Here are some tips from the web:


DRYING TIME

Drying time between layers in standard house, commercial etc. spaces, with humidity and temperature conditions (40% humidity, at 70 deg F. or 20 deg C) create conditions that average 1 to 1.5 hours between layers of product, when rolling or spraying. Spraying between layers tends to have shorter drying times between layers, as the coatings partially dry in the air on the way to the surface (spraying technique will vary drying times!!).



SPRAYING GOO

Spraying Screen Goo -tends- (results will vary!..specifically, very much according to your spraying skills) to use noticeably more product than when rolling. Coverage tends to be in the 25 sq. ft (2.3sqm) per Litre of Basecoat or Topcoat.


I like thick coats! Many have sprayed screens in the 16:9 ratio at 100" diagonal size, and sprayed with only 1 litre of each of the Basecoat and Topcoat. I'm not an expert sprayer! That's the problem. My advice on that issue only goes so far, and your experience as a sprayer counts for quite a bit. Small screens should be sprayed with a minimum of 1 litre of product (per type) as the spraying systems tend to loose too much product in the bottom of their reservoirs for 1/2 litre size to be an effective and workable singular purchase.


If you are spraying our product, our 'Flow Release' agent can be made available to you for a minimal fee, and shipped along with your purchase. This is a maximum grade agent for separating the particle mix in the product to aid in keeping the spray tip from clogging and spitting, and it will 'flow' much better with this product added into the mix. Particle separation will be exemplary, and as perfect as possible for spraying conditions. This allows a more perfect surface to spray into existence, or a specific textural situation to be created. Design your -own- perfect screen surface!


Using a Wagner Power Sprayer works quite well. Make sure there is product enough to allow for the fact that the Wagner sprayers leave product at the bottom of the reservoir.. and they 'spit' product out at the end of the spraying.. so you cannot use the last of the Screen Goo in the sprayer tank. When using these sprayers, you should turn the unit all the way down, so there is no flow at all, and then turn it up by about 1/3 or a rotation. The product must come out slowly enough so that you have enough to layer the screen with thin coats to ensure even coverage. To ensure a proper misting,


>>>it is likely that you will have to add approximately 10%-15% clean mineral water to the Digital Grey Basecoat and Topcoat, prior to use Specifically the Topcoat. Start with 10% and go from there.

 

[popeckia]

I have just received my second order of goo. Unfortuantely, despite my request via email, it was sent out without the flow release agent that it would appear I should be using.


Is this a product I can buy locally? Or something similar perhaps? Or should I just thin out the product with water?

 

[KBK]

Whoops. Sorry. there is a product at local artist stores called 'flow ease' from LIQUITEX.


You may also be able to locally obtain the Tri-Art brand "flow release" agent, at artist stores. Use between .5 and .75 of an oz. per liter of product. Thin with about the same amount of water..and add the thinned mix to the coating and stir fora while.....The 'retarders' are the same product, just not as concentrated.


Water itself, as a thinning agent and slowing agent works incredibly well by itself. The product can take up to 50% thinning with water, when using compressor-cup gun systems.

 

[ChaCha]

why does KBK only respond when his product is discussed? interesting...

 

[KBK]

well, there is reason for that. I cannot respond when someone else's product is discussed, can I? How would that look? for example..should I go into threads where someone is discussing Stewart, Dalite, Vutec, Draper, etc...and make comments on their products? I think not. Sometimes I get dragged into such discussions....and have to find a delicate way out.


I also have made comments that are not entirely, uhm, unbiased. I treat the forum like a discussion of a spoken nature between a few people, that happens to be overheard by a larger group. When you speak a word.. it cannot be recalled, or removed. It was said..and everyone heard it. So when I make a comment...I almost always abide by the rule of 'letting it stand', no matter how it may make me look.


I said it..so...how can I recall or reclaim it? In my mind, there is a certain amount of dishonesty in editing something..unless it was REALLY in bad taste.


I can make comments on other companies products, but the comments must be of a positive nature ONLY. For example, I like the Da-lite Highpower screen. It's a very nice screen... for specific applications.


It's only common sense, decency and honesty.


As well, I have certainly made my contributions to the DIY discussions. For example, the origin points for many (or some, depending on your stance and attitude) of the discussions involving understandings of DIY paint mixtures are based on many of the threads I have started or contributed in..or stem from people reading many of my posts overall. Either they glean what they need from what I have said..or they are spurned to creativity by what I am saying or have said. It is not as If I have been silent.


Heck..some of the existing finished (retail purchase via known companies) screens that people use today stem from discussions I was deeply involved in.


Know your forum history. This is why I am now largely silent on things. i have given away enough. I have to save some for me...I also have to remain silent, as I am now involved in a company, so the futures of more than just myself are at stake, and I have a responsibility to those people and situations. So I can no longer do completely as I wish.


Read the other 4000 posts first.

 

[KBK]

Another comment. You seem to be hot on the Highpower. Go to the Over $5000 PJ forum. Do a seach for my name (Hotte), and the Dalite Highpower.


You may find something very interesting.


I also try very hard to only respond in a thread when there is actually something relevant to say. If any other stance is taken, then it merely becomes pure self-promotion. I don't want the forum to be dragged down to that level any more than you do, or anyone else does. We don't want a commercially based forum here. That was never the idea...and I vehemently support that stance and position on the forum's status and modus operandi.....the one set by David Bott and Alan Gouger.


If the AVS forum was blatantly commercial..then it's validity as a forum -period-, would be SEVERELY diminished. There would bee too much dreck and garbage for it to be fun... or useful.

 

[fish]

don't worry ken, i appreciate your input.

I live in australia and if it wasn't for this forum and people like yourself, aavi and joebwan spending time and writing replies id have either a very expensive long distance phone bill and probably still watching my old useless lcd on my rear wall (with a black level the same shade as concrete too boot). It was this forum that made me realise that you dont have to spend $4500 aud for a stewart screen for a high gain screen and that there are cheap alternatives, even downunder. Keep up the input and advise.

fish

 

[JBJR]

I sprayed my parkland screen with the crt goo through a Wagner sprayer with fantastic results. I put down at least 4 coats of the primer and another 6 coats of the crt goo. It is a very bright screen with absolutely no hot spotting. I think it must be in the neighborhood of about a 2.5 gain screen. I think it is the best I've seen yet.


John

 

[cbrandin]

Which Goo version did you use - the crt white?

 

[JBJR]

It was the high gain crt goo. I believe it is no longer available.

 

[KBK]

With digital projectors having good blacks these days....we may go back to manufacturing it. It really was something special. But it did take 3 days to make.

 

[macman]

Ken, have you been able to compare the high gain crt goo with a Dalite highpower using a digital projector? Is it considered a retro-reflective surfice as the highpower? I would be curious as to the characteristics of the high gain goo compared to the highpower such as reflective angle (cone angle). It seems with the recent buzz on high gain screens for digital projectors there would be some interest. I think the largest concern for the Dalite highpower is the ceiling mount issue. If the high gain crt goo would be a better candidate for ceiling mounted digital projectors then I would think there would be a high demand for your high gain goo.

 

[popeckia]

"Water itself, as a thinning agent and slowing agent works incredibly well by itself. The product can take up to 50% thinning with water, when using compressor-cup gun systems."


Please excuse my lack of knowledge on these things, but I will apparently be using an HVLP system (although I suspect a pretty cheap and cheerful one) - does 50% still apply?

 

[KBK]

Hard to say. maybe....maybe not! The best solution.. is to creep your way up to the 50%..and see what works best for you. Experienced spray gun users..are the key.


I might try 25% water with a HVLP. This should thin it enough to get that perfect texture. HVLP's are more adjsutable than a regular cup gun set-up.

 

[Sime]

so, do you need to thin 25% with water, AND use the Liquitex (or Floetrol), or do you use one or the other?


Thanks

 

[KBK]

one or the other. BUT..many people use the liquitex, or our 'Flow Release' and add that to water. A mix of both. The water creates better dispersion on it's own..a the same time it creates a better volume of product to work with. A real bonus when spraying!