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Screen upgrade Need Ideas!

1746 Views 17 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Huntmx24
I posted this in another place but figured I would add it here as well. I just upgraded to the jvc nx5 and want to move from a 106" to a 130 16:9 screen. The main wall is about 18" back behind the front wall and the screen is recessed a bit. I am looking at either moving the built in cabinets to the sides more and slide the speakers and make space for the larger screen. But I am also considering doing a AT screen with the speakers behind. Either cutting the screen recess bigger and recessing the screen or placing the speakers where the recess is and mounting the screen out on the wall face. It may be a good idea to reclaim some depth and cut the screen back in further(Way more work) Let me know Ideas. I have been reading about the spandex screen and like the price. Has anyone compared that too Seymour uf or xd screens? I am sitting back about 12-13 ft. I may need to move my projector back some which is ok. Let me know ideas. Thanks everyone

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Hi there.


Lots to relate about Spandex and it's relevance to your application.


Check back in the AM and you should have a detailed response.
Hi there.


Lots to relate about Spandex and it's relevance to your application.


Check back in the AM and you should have a detailed response.
Sweet thanks. I have read a lot of threads where you give some great advice. I was hoping you would respond.
Sweet thanks. I have read a lot of threads where you give some great advice. I was hoping you would respond.

Well let's see how that works out for ya......


Spandex has a exceedingly smooth weave, and acoustic properties that rank among the best in class. But it is a sub-unity gain surface along the lines of 0.7 That would mean your 130"er would produce 23 foot lambert at a throw that should be no more than or less than 13'-4"


While that seems low, the V6 Dreamscreen material clocks in at 0.85 gain (26 fl) so the difference is not a huge as it seems when one considers both the performance to Cost ratio.***



At 1800 lumen and with the NX5....and if your Theater is wholly light controlled, 23 fl is pretty acceptable if your HDR is coming through effectively. However that truth being that even with a 2200 lumen NX9 your foot lambert would still only be 28 fl at the same screen size and throw distance. That is far removed from the upper 30s+ some have deemed the least acceptable for HDR performance.



It is a judgement call to be made by you as to if watching Native 4K content without the best aspects of HDR being available is deemed acceptable, and should it be, then with your Woodworking skills employed you could create a very attractive installation.


*** Spandex's visual & aural qualities notwithstanding....only higher gain AT screens will improve your (HDR) lot, but even the highest among them don't reach much beyond 1.2 gain without themselves creating visual considerations.
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Sweet thanks. I have read a lot of threads where you give some great advice. I was hoping you would respond.

Well let's see how that works out for ya......


Spandex has a exceedingly smooth weave, and acoustic properties that rank among the best in class. But it is a sub-unity gain surface along the lines of 0.7 That would mean your 130"er would produce 23 foot lambert at a throw that should be no more than or less than 13'-4"


While that seems low, the V6 Dreamscreen material clocks in at 0.85 gain (26 fl) so the difference is not a huge as it seems when one considers both the performance to Cost ratio.***



At 1800 lumen and with the NX5....and if your Theater is wholly light controlled, 23 fl is pretty acceptable if your HDR is coming through effectively. However that truth being that even with a 2200 lumen NX9 your foot lambert would still only be 28 fl at the same screen size and throw distance. That is far removed from the upper 30s+ some have deemed the least acceptable for HDR performance.



It is a judgement call to be made by you as to if watching Native 4K content without the best aspects of HDR being available is deemed acceptable, and should it be, then with your Woodworking skills employed you could create a very attractive installation.


*** Spandex's visual & aural qualities notwithstanding....only higher gain AT screens will improve your (HDR) lot, but even the highest among them don't reach much beyond 1.2 gain without themselves creating visual considerations.
Do you think it would be better to get the Seymour uf or xd screen material? They are sending me samples. I do want the best hdr and brightness that I can get. I am not worried to pay more to get a better screen material. Any recommendations?
Also would it be better to just do a non AT screen as far as picture quality goes? I have samples of the spandex, Seymour uf and xd and Elite screens cinewhite screen samples coming to check out.
Do you think it would be better to get the Seymour uf or xd screen material? They are sending me samples. I do want the best hdr and brightness that I can get. I am not worried to pay more to get a better screen material. Any recommendations?
Neither of the above can reach up to the gain level that assures one of a comprehensive level of HDR performance. Period. As such, if one is to go "AT", the focus should be on image quality, and the acceptance that....at least for now....HDR falls into the realm of those who can have enough gain***. And THAT does not include those whose Theaters (...or personal desires....) include having AT Screens of humongous proportions. Honestly.....the specifications of, and how HDR is being delivered is changing, but even with that, there is a wide gap between what can be had....and what can actually be done. The Future looks bright....but that's the Future, not the Present.

Also would it be better to just do a non AT screen as far as picture quality goes? I have samples of the spandex, Seymour uf and xd and Elite screens cinewhite screen samples coming to check out.
As I've stated....Image Quality on Spandex is certainly not lacking.....just the degree of gain required to assure that "any" HDR content will show as brilliantly as non-HDR content will.

As a good and valid example, currently the "accepted" amount of Foot Lambert to have coming off a Screen for effective HDR across most all Content Platforms is a "MINIMUM" of 40 fl....and preferably higher. But Hey....so very many do compromise on that.

In your situation, at 130" and with a 1.3 gain conventional surface, at a Throw of 13'-7" you'd garner 43 fl. Now your where you want to be.

AT Screens...the very few who do sport gain levels above 1.2, all have visual issues whereas the Weave or Perforations become very apparent unless one sits back at the "old school" ratio of 1.8:1 ......or more. That effectively makes a large screen become a decidedly smaller screen...the very anti-thesis of what the Big Picture is supposed to be all about.

Coming back around to your situation, your build would certainly look splendid in a AT-oriented design. Now you did already tip your hat toward the NX5....so therein lies both your desire for DLA 4K....and at a reasonable buy in. Personally, if someone comes to me before they bite, and AT is considered as being mandatory, I would refer them to the EShift Epson 5050.....for now, because it has the Lumen Ooomph to handle almost any reasonable size. (...at 130" with Spandex it can achieve 35 fl...) But I'm also a staunch JVC advocate & Dealer...and I install 'em whenever the budget and circumstances permit. But........I also do not send a Boy to do a Man's job as far as needed lumen output, so.....:( It is hard for me to justify specifying a PJ costing over $5K solely on the back of being Native 4K when such only sports 40K:1 Contrast and 1800 lumen. Nope....I steer people toward a x790r / RS-540u instead....and let the over $2K saved be justification for a future upgrade when PJ Mfg get wised up and give us all 4K @ 3000 lumen and 100K:1 Native contrast......for under $4K.

Now rest assured, I understand why people fawn over the NX-/RS-'000 series. We've all been clamoring for JVC to produce a Native 4K DLA machine. But they still have their own limitations, and some of those limitations are coming to roost on your Window sill right now.

Sooooooo....my advice would be to go with a conventional screen (...but choose....wisely! ) if HDR is an important factor in your plans.







PS......you can easily get what you want with a DIY Painted Screen and in doing so both save a huge bundle while waiting for another viable Screen alternative. (...had to toss that into the grinder...:p)
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Do you think it would be better to get the Seymour uf or xd screen material? They are sending me samples. I do want the best hdr and brightness that I can get. I am not worried to pay more to get a better screen material. Any recommendations?
Neither of the above can reach up to the gain level that assures one of a comprehensive level of HDR performance. Period. As such, if one is to go "AT", the focus should be on image quality, and the acceptance that....at least for now....HDR falls into the realm of those who can have enough gain***. And THAT does not include those whose Theaters (...or personal desires....) include having AT Screens of humongous proportions. Honestly.....the specifications of, and how HDR is being delivered is changing, but even with that, there is a wide gap between what can be had....and what can actually be done. The Future looks bright....but that's the Future, not the Present.

Also would it be better to just do a non AT screen as far as picture quality goes? I have samples of the spandex, Seymour uf and xd and Elite screens cinewhite screen samples coming to check out.
As I've stated....Image Quality on Spandex is certainly not lacking.....just the degree of gain required to assure that "any" HDR content will show as brilliantly as non-HDR content will.

As a good and valid example, currently the "accepted" amount of Foot Lambert to have coming off a Screen for effective HDR across most all Content Platforms is a "MINIMUM" of 40 fl....and preferably higher. But Hey....so very many do compromise on that.

In your situation, at 130" and with a 1.3 gain conventional surface, at a Throw of 13'-7" you'd garner 43 fl. Now your where you want to be.

AT Screens...the very few who do sport gain levels above 1.2, all have visual issues whereas the Weave or Perforations become very apparent unless one sits back at the "old school" ratio of 1.8:1 ......or more. That effectively makes a large screen become a decidedly smaller screen...the very anti-thesis of what the Big Picture is supposed to be all about.

Coming back around to your situation, your build would certainly look splendid in a AT-oriented design. Now you did already tip your hat toward the NX5....so therein lies both your desire for DLA 4K....and at a reasonable buy in. Personally, if someone comes to me before they bite, and AT is considered as being mandatory, I would refer them to the EShift Epson 5050.....for now, because it has the Lumen Ooomph to handle almost any reasonable size. (...at 130" with Spandex it can achieve 35 fl...) But I'm also a staunch JVC advocate & Dealer...and I install 'em whenever the budget and circumstances permit. But........I also do not send a Boy to do a Man's job as far as needed lumen output, so...../forum/images/smilies/frown.gif It is hard for me to justify specifying a PJ costing over $5K solely on the back of being Native 4K when such only sports 40K:1 Contrast and 1800 lumen. Nope....I steer people toward a x790r / RS-540u instead....and let the over $2K saved be justification for a future upgrade when PJ Mfg get wised up and give us all 4K @ 3000 lumen and 100K:1 Native contrast......for under $4K.

Now rest assured, I understand why people fawn over the NX-/RS-'000 series. We've all been clamoring for JVC to produce a Native 4K DLA machine. But they still have their own limitations, and some of those limitations are coming to roost on your Window sill right now.

Sooooooo....my advice would be to go with a conventional screen (...but choose....wisely! ) if HDR is an important factor in your plans.







PS......you can easily get what you want with a DIY Painted Screen and in doing so both save a huge bundle while waiting for another viable Screen alternative. (...had to toss that into the grinder.../forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Man lots to consider! I actually have a painted screen right now and it looks very very good to me. Like comparable to my 65” 4k Sony tv. I used a old thread on projector central where they tested a lot of paints and found a certain Schwewin Williams paint to almost match a Stewart studiotek 100 but the paint mix has changed and is no longer recommended any more. If I was to go with a convential screen or even cut my opening bigger and sheet rock and skim coat the wall to do paint again any ideas on speaker placement? I would have to either slide my built ins to the side walls and put the speaker next to them built in. Or put the Speakers to the outside of the builtins toed in to the center position. But I wonder if that would be too wide for my speakers.

Also on a convential non at screen what would be a good recommendation. I have the elitescreen cinewhite sample coming.

But yea I do want the very best image quality I can get with the best HDR I can get. I know projectors can’t match hdr of a tv. Also my room is perfectly light controlled. No windows.
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Doesn’t the Seymour xd screen say it’s a 1.2 gain? On that projector central calculator it gives a pretty good fl number. But I am new to this and don’t know for sure
@Huntmx24, AT screens are only necessary for those who are especially sensitive to sound directionality or who want to hide their speakers. Many people find a non-AT screen flanked by the L/R speakers on each side and the center immediately above or below the screen to be perfectly convincing. For example, when we are watching a movie and see an actor's lips moving in the center of the screen while the voice is actually coming from a speaker just above or below the screen most people's brains will process the sound as coming from the actor's lips. That's why ventriloquists can so easily fool most of us that the dummy's moving lips are speaking the words actually coming from the ventriloquist's mouth. Since we're all wired a little differently when perceiving sound directionality one size doesn't fit all. The only way for any individual to know how sensitive they are to sound directionality would be to experiment. Also, some people just like to show off their speakers and not hide them behind a screen. :)
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@Huntmx24, AT screens are only necessary for those who are especially sensitive to sound directionality or who want to hide their speakers. Many people find a non-AT screen flanked by the L/R speakers on each side and the center immediately above or below the screen to be perfectly convincing. For example, when we are watching a movie and see an actor's lips moving in the center of the screen while the voice is actually coming from a speaker just above or below the screen most people's brains will process the sound as coming from the actor's lips. That's why ventriloquists can so easily fool most of us that the dummy's moving lips are speaking the words actually coming from the ventriloquist's mouth. Since we're all wired a little differently when perceiving sound directionality one size doesn't fit all. The only way for any individual to know how sensitive they are to sound directionality would be to experiment. Also, some people just like to show off their speakers and not hide them behind a screen. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Good point. Yea as I have it now it doesn’t bother me. If I think about it I can tell the center is below the screen but when just involved in content it doesn’t bother. I’m just not sure what to do. For one I know I want a bigger screen and good image quality. But if I go bigger I am not sure what I should do with my side speakers. If I remodel and move the builtins or put them to the side. Just not sure. Open to any ideas.
If I moved the speakers to the sides of the builtins is that going to be way to far to the sides of the room?

I appreciate all the feed back thanks
Akia Screens 125" Edge Free Fixed Projector Screen 125 inch Diagonal 16:9 Thin Edge Projection Screen 8K 4K Ultra HD 3D Ready Movie and Home Theater AK-NB125H https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NW38MZ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hRVsDbNEKSKBQ

I just came across this screen. It would be a tad smaller but it’s edgeless and I could put that between my builtins and still have room for my speakers to each side of the cabinets. It looks like this material is the same as elite screens cinewhite color. This may just be what I will do.
@Huntmx24, you have a lot of variables in your setup that wouldn't apply to other setups. It's a matter of thinking through all the pros and cons of the various options. These kinds of decisions are usually based on a balance of what you think will work best for your personal preferences and the amount of time, energy and money you're willing to put into the project. Most of us end up making some kind of compromise.

As for Akia Screens, that looks to be another of many generic Chinese brands that has only been mentioned a few times on AVS Forum, so there isn't a large body of experience with its performance compared with a frequently used and praised economy brand like Elite, Silver Screen or Carl's. You can't tell by looking at a small advertising image if it has the same quality screen materials as brands that have been tested extensively by many and are well proven. Even simple white screen material can have many different issues such as sheen, texture and not being color neutral depending on how carefully it's produced. It's always a gamble to go with a screen material that hasn't been thoroughly vetted by others just to save a few bucks.
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@Huntmx24, you have a lot of variables in your setup that wouldn't apply to other setups. It's a matter of thinking through all the pros and cons of the various options. These kinds of decisions are usually based on a balance of what you think will work best for your personal preferences and the amount of time, energy and money you're willing to put into the project. Most of us end up making some kind of compromise.

As for Akia Screens, that looks to be another of many generic Chinese brands that has only been mentioned a few times on AVS Forum, so there isn't a large body of experience with its performance compared with a frequently used and praised economy brand like Elite, Silver Screen or Carl's. You can't tell by looking at a small advertising image if it has the same quality screen materials as brands that have been tested extensively by many and are well proven. Even simple white screen material can have many different issues such as sheen, texture and not being color neutral depending on how carefully it's produced. It's always a gamble to go with a screen material that hasn't been thoroughly vetted by others just to save a few bucks.
Yea lots of options. I think I may go with a non at screen and maybe just slide my builtins to the sides and put the speakers next to them with black mesh over them. Some people are claiming that that akia brand uses elite screens cinewhite material but who knows for sure. 125” would be better for me so I don’t have to slide my projector back so far. But we will see I guess. How does elite screens compare to silver ticket in white material. Looks to be the two popular on amazon
@Huntmx24, it looks like "some people" are right. I found refurbished Akia screens being sold on the Elite website so that pretty much confirms Akia is a sub-brand of Elite. What I wonder is why Elite would need to have a cheaper sub-brand as Elite is already considered to be a low-cost economy brand. It makes me wonder if Elite uses the cheaper Akia brand to sell materials that don't meet Elite's economy spec. There's no way of knowing for sure without an experienced AV specialist with a trained eye doing a rigorous comparison test. Elite and Silver Screen are pretty closely rated as evidenced in the following screen comparison test:

thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/
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Yea that is what I was wondering if they are using either screen material or frame material that didn’t make the cut for the elite screens. Or they are just branching out more to get more sales. Who knows. I got a elite screens cinewhite sample in the mail so I will be checking that out tonight.
Well I made a good transformation over the last couple days. Made my builtins wider and added speakers next to them. Took off the wainscoting to reduce the echo and darken walls. I got a 125” screen. Akia off amazon. I am super impressed. I think they are a sub company owned by elite screens. The material is about identical to the cinewhite sample I had. I am super happy with how this has turned out! Not for some cool acoustic panels. My wife likes the idea of some with scenic pics printed on them or planes or something cool. And I want to build custom subs into the front wall under the screen. And possibly paint the ceiling dark we will see about that one! The screen feel so much bigger than my 106”. This 125” is about 11” closer to the seating and my Head is about 12.5 back. Feels good and I also created enough room to do a 135” if I wanted. Oh also built the doors to my builtins with speaker mesh. Love the dark look when the lights are out. Thanks for all the idea and tips.

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Painted the ceiling black. I am done for now. I still want to do acoustic panels maybe with movie themes printed on them. And I would love to build some custom subwoofers into the front wall.

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