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Screen Wall Paint for Epson 5050UBe

2827 Views 27 Replies 3 Participants Last post by hlipham, Jan 13, 2022

hlipham

Discussion Starter · Jun 22, 2021

I am at drywall finishing stage (photo attached) and need to finalize my screen paint plan. This will not be a dedicated theater, but a multi-purpose rec/media/game room. Based on searches and other posts, it seems like Silver Fire v2.5 N/C might be a good option for this projector, but wanted to get feedback from others.

The room has no windows and two doors. I will have three banks of lights from front to back, all dimmable. Wall paint for the rest of the room will probably be a flat greige and I plan on installing at least 4' of black velvet on the walls and ceiling around the screen wall. I have enough material to go out 8' if needed.

I plan on having the drywall finishers do a level 5 finish on the screen wall and I will paint the entire wall the screen color. The screen wall is 13' x 8'.

The projector is an Epson 5050UBe and the lens will be about 13' from the wall.

I have an earlex HVLP sprayer that I have never used, but purchased for this project.

The paint schedule, from what I understand, should be:

1. 6 duster coats of Kilz2
2. Lightly sand with large sponge
3. 2 duster coats of Kilz2
4. 5-6 duster coats of screen paint
5. Lightly sand with large sponge
6. 2-3 duster coats of screen paint

Is that paint/sand schedule accurate or does it need to be changed?
Am I correct that overlap is about 70% and speed of 3'/second?

Any feedback on the proposed screen paint color?

Thank you
- Hugh

Window Building Waste container Flooring Floor

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MississippiMan

· #2 · Jun 22, 2021

hlipham said:
I am at drywall finishing stage (photo attached) and need to finalize my screen paint plan. This will not be a dedicated theater, but a multi-purpose rec/media/game room. Based on searches and other posts, it seems like Silver Fire v2.5 N/C might be a good option for this projector, but wanted to get feedback from others.

The room has no windows and two doors. I will have three banks of lights from front to back, all dimmable. Wall paint for the rest of the room will probably be a flat greige and I plan on installing at least 4' of black velvet on the walls and ceiling around the screen wall. I have enough material to go out 8' if needed.

I plan on having the drywall finishers do a level 5 finish on the screen wall and I will paint the entire wall the screen color. The screen wall is 13' x 8'.

The projector is an Epson 5050UBe and the lens will be about 13' from the wall.

I have an earlex HVLP sprayer that I have never used, but purchased for this project.

The paint schedule, from what I understand, should be:

1. 6 duster coats of Kilz2
2. Lightly sand with large sponge
3. 2 duster coats of Kilz2
4. 5-6 duster coats of screen paint
5. Lightly sand with large sponge
6. 2-3 duster coats of screen paint

Is that paint/sand schedule accurate or does it need to be changed?
Am I correct that overlap is about 70% and speed of 3'/second?

Any feedback on the proposed screen paint color?

Thank you
- Hugh

View attachment 3146889

Hugh,

1st off, it seems the Drywall Finisher did you a Proper by floating out the Seams as far as he did. Kudos to him for that!

Dilute and strain the Primer......also strain the Screen Paint.

I would suggest that you abridge the Priming schedule to allow for a light sanding after 3-4 coats and a 2nd "very light" sanding before applying the Screen Paint.

Sanding the Screen paint is usually done between the 4th & 5th coats....again "very lightly"..

Do you have the 1.0 mm Needle?

Both Overlap and Speed figures are correct. Maintain a 14" distance from the surface

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hlipham

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 22, 2021

MM, thanks for the reply.

I do have a 1.0 mm needle and I will adjust the paint and sanding schedule accordingly. After sanding the screen paint between coats 4 & 5, how many additional coats should I plan on?

I understand that horizontal passes are preferred, but should I make a vertical pass at the left and right edges before starting the horizontal runs?

Is this the type of sanding sponge I need? Or should it be something like this?

Should I use Ford #4 cup to determine viscosity or just mix the primer so it pours like milk?

I'm guessing that if I follow the silver fire v2.5 n/c paint mix schedule that I shouldn't need to dilute it much or at all, is that right?
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl 32 oz.
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – Sterling Silver 10oz.
PPG Diamond Flat 20 oz. Home Depot
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based) 20 oz.
Distilled Water 32 oz.

Thanks for your patience and assistance.

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MississippiMan

· #4 · Jun 22, 2021

hlipham said:
MM, thanks for the reply.

I do have a 1.0 mm needle and I will adjust the paint and sanding schedule accordingly. After sanding the screen paint between coats 4 & 5, how many additional coats should I plan on?

At minimum 2...preferably 3.

I understand that horizontal passes are preferred, but should I make a vertical pass at the left and right edges before starting the horizontal runs?

That is what is called "Cutting In".....and yes, if the paint is going all the way into each Corner, that is exactly what you should / need to do. However the same regimen applies to the Top and Bottom edges. (Ceiling / Wall - Wall-Baseboard)

Is this the type of sanding sponge I need? Or should it be something like this?

Yep,yep.

Should I use Ford #4 cup to determine viscosity[/QUOTE] NO!

.... or just mix the primer so it pours like milk?

Yep, Yep. When pouring into a Nylon Sock (1 Gal. Bag) Strainer at the prescribed rate, the Primer (...as well as the Paint...) should slightly pool and then drain steadily and freely.

I'm guessing that if I follow the silver fire v2.5 n/c paint mix schedule that I shouldn't need to dilute it much or at all, is that right?

With a 1.0 mm needle, you don't guess. I would always add an additional 6 -8 oz to the 3+ Quart Mixture if during Straining the paint (...or Primer...) did not basically fall through the Nylon Mesh. You notice if it doesn't....the paint will back up in the Filter and make you have to slow your steady pour rate.(...see example below...)

By the way, when you stretch the Bag Filter over the Gallon Can / or the Paint Cup,there should only be a slightly recessed "dent" across the Top of the opening....not a deeper "pocket".

Straining Into A Paint Cup

Example of "Too Slow Straining"

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl 32 oz.
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – Sterling Silver 10oz.
PPG Diamond Flat 20 oz. Home Depot
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based) 20 oz.
Distilled Water 32 oz.

Thanks for your patience and assistance.

Watch these Videos

Any further questions...always ask before you squirt!

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hlipham

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jun 23, 2021

Should I expect to run the paint flow on the gun wide open or somewhere in the middle? There is a dial on the back of the handle that adjust the flow. This is the specific unit that I have: Earlex HVLP Precision Spray Station

Should the fan be set to the widest pattern possible, which is 12" on this gun?

MississippiMan

· #6 · Jun 23, 2021

hlipham said:
Should I expect to run the paint flow on the gun wide open or somewhere in the middle? There is a dial on the back of the handle that adjust the flow. This is the specific unit that I have: Earlex HVLP Precision Spray Station

Should the fan be set to the widest pattern possible, which is 12" on this gun?

Yes....and maintain a distance from the surface of 14" -16"

MississippiMan

· #7 · Jun 23, 2021

hlipham said:
Should I expect to run the paint flow on the gun wide open or somewhere in the middle? There is a dial on the back of the handle that adjust the flow. This is the specific unit that I have: Earlex HVLP Precision Spray Station

Should the fan be set to the widest pattern possible, which is 12" on this gun?

Yes always wide open.

hlipham

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jun 26, 2021

My painter wants to spray one coat on the level 5 wall so they can fill voids. And then I would proceed with primer (if needed) and screen paint. Should I let them do that or should I do the multiple coats of primer and they point after that?

MississippiMan

· #9 · Jun 27, 2021

If it is already at Level 5 it shouldn't have any voids....but if he want to apply what is called :First Coat:,then that is actually a Primer, very heavy bodies and used to create smooth surface by filling voids, crack, Pin Holes and such.

Even so it should be sanded lightly and then primed with standard primer and then the Screen Paint. BE SURE to allow the 1st Coat and then the Primer to dry completely before spraying the Screen paint.

hlipham

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jun 27, 2021

Thank you! I'll check to see if the first coat would be an untinted primer or not. I think they might spray my wall color as the first coat. I just sent a PM, which you can ignore.

Hugh

MississippiMan said:
If it is already at Level 5 it shouldn't have any voids....but if he want to apply what is called :First Coat:,then that is actually a Primer, very heavy bodies and used to create smooth surface by filling voids, crack, Pin Holes and such.

Even so it should be sanded lightly and then primed with standard primer and then the Screen Paint. BE SURE to allow the 1st Coat and then the Primer to dry completely before spraying the Screen paint.

biglen

· #11 · Jun 27, 2021

I also have a 5050ub, with a painted screen, and the projector is around 13.5' from the screen. I used Black Flame Interstellar, and the image is stunning. My room also has no windows, and it's painted with Fine Paints of Europe, flat black. The screen area is surrounded with triple black velvet, to around 4' back. I used an Astro auto paint gun, with a 1.5mm tip. I sprayed about 7 light coats, overlapping each coat about 3". I very lightly sanded after coat 5.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

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MississippiMan

· #12 · Jun 27, 2021

hlipham said:
Thank you! I'll check to see if the first coat would be an untinted primer or not. I think they might spray my wall color as the first coat. I just sent a PM, which you can ignore.

Hugh

Spraying a Tinted Primer will reduce the effect the underlying white coat might have as far as preserving white levels. Tell the painters they should only spray enough of the Grey to get a even coat over the white.....no more.

hlipham

Discussion Starter · #13 · Dec 20, 2021

7

I finally sprayed my screen and it looks good, but I am not sure if it looks like it is supposed to. There are bigger bumps in the paint than I thought there would be.

When I sprayed the primer it seemed to spray fairly smoothly, but when I sprayed the screen paint I was getting bigger droplets of paint on the wall. I was spraying with a 1 mm needle and the Earlex 2901 was wide open. Any ideas on whether this is as expected or what the problem might have been, if not?

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hlipham

Discussion Starter · #14 · Dec 29, 2021

@MississippiMan or anyone else, any thoughts on the post above would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

MississippiMan

· #15 · Dec 30, 2021

hlipham said:
@MississippiMan or anyone else, any thoughts on the post above would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Larger Droplets usually means the Paint was just a wee bit too thinned. However that can be adjusted for by increasing the speed across the screen and making sure you employ a Fan to hasten drying time so as to shrink and flatten those droplets. Extra heat works wonders as well. Both combined is da Bomb!

So OK....the surface above shown in the first image looks a bit mottled, as if there was still a coat or two lacking. The projected imagery looked good though.

You can work to create a smoother surface by sanding the new paint lightly but thoroughly, then applying 2 more coats very quickly.

hlipham

Discussion Starter · #16 · Dec 30, 2021

MississippiMan said:
So OK....the surface above shown in the first image looks a bit mottled, as if there was still a coat or two lacking. The projected imagery looked good though.

You can work to create a smoother surface by sanding the new paint lightly but thoroughly, then applying 2 more coats very quickly.

Thanks, MM. After I sanded, I applied three additional screen paint coats. I also ran a fan and had the temperature up to about 75 degrees.

I replied to your email reply as well. I only have about 20 oz of screen paint, so I'm not sure if I can get two coats from that. What do you think?

MississippiMan

· #17 · Jan 1, 2022

hlipham said:
Thanks, MM. After I sanded, I applied three additional screen paint coats. I also ran a fan and had the temperature up to about 75 degrees.

I replied to your email reply as well. I only have about 20 oz of screen paint, so I'm not sure if I can get two coats from that. What do you think?

Your saying you did what I suggested above.....right? And have 20 oz left? Or what exactly?

If you've yet to do the recoating, 20 oz would be / should be sufficient for 2 Dusters....or add 10 more ounces of the White to make certain and have enough for 3 coats..

hlipham

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jan 1, 2022

MississippiMan said:
Your saying you did what I suggested above.....right? And have 20 oz left? Or what exactly?

If you've yet to do the recoating, 20 oz would be / should be sufficient for 2 Dusters....or add 10 more ounces of the White to make certain and have enough for 3 coats..

No, sorry. I was saying that when I first applied the screen paint I sanded and used a fan. I have not tried to do any sanding or touch-up work since I've started asking questions about what should be done.

The grayish spots that I'm seeing on primarily white images are actually slight recesses, and not raised areas as I originally thought.

Thank you for your help.

MississippiMan

· #19 · Jan 1, 2022

Oh....then they need to be filled with a very light skim. No paint can fill them.
Are you sure the "spots" are not high points?
`

hlipham

Discussion Starter · #20 · Jan 3, 2022

3

Yes, the gray spots are low spots, but calling them low is being generous. There are certainly not craters by any means, but they are lower than the surrounding paint. Some of the spots almost look like they somehow did not get a coat of paint like the rest of it did, but that sounds crazy.

I have attached a couple more photos with some yellow tape for reference with the projector light on and with the projector light off and overhead lights on. The spots that look sort of gray while the projector is on look different with overhead lighting on.

Do you think I might be able to sand down the entire surface with a large sanding sponge so that it is mostly flat and then respray? Or is a skim coat is the best way?

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