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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I understand height wise that you can't/shouldn't do it, but is there any draw backs to going wall to wall width wise when installing a screen? Viewing distance will be at the recommened distance BTW.

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Pssoble problems depending on situation.


Is PJ bright enough for the size and type of screen?


Wall/ceiling reflections? ie color of walls, etc.


Placement of speakers? Speakers placed behind screen with an AT screen works well for this type of situation. Otherwise you'll be compromising acoustics.


Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by img eL /forum/post/16826480


Yeah Wall to Wall!
How big were u thinking about going? What PJ do u have?

In the room I am thinking of, I was going to go 180" diagonal which would equate to a 165" wide 2.37:1 screen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobL /forum/post/16826531


Pssoble problems depending on situation.


Is PJ bright enough for the size and type of screen?


Wall/ceiling reflections? ie color of walls, etc.


Placement of speakers? Speakers placed behind screen with an AT screen works well for this type of situation. Otherwise you'll be compromising acoustics.


Bob

I am very new to home theater and have never used a projector. I was going to decide on what size screen I wanted and then buy the equipment needed from there. I was thinking of getting a fixed screen with Acoustic Vision fabric from here, http://projectorscreens.com.au/shop/...d&productId=48


Walls will be black for the front half of the room and the back half will be dark grey. Same with the ceilling, and dark carpet floor. I was planning on having the speakers behind the screen. I was thinking of getting the pioneer EX series speakers in 7.2 with a Pioneer Susano SC-LX90 AMP. I have no idea on what projector as of yet, but I plan to do more research before I start having the spare room renovated for the home thearter.
 

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I'm not familiar with those speakers but placement behind the screen is important as well. If they are freestanding speakers you will most likely have to treat the area behind the screen.


180" diag is big and you would need a PJ with a lot of lumens to fill it. I recommend finding what your screen gain would be and find out how many lumens you need to get 20 ft/l at the screen. This will account for bulb aging as they usually lose 50% or more of their brightness in their rated lifespan or plan on replacing the bulbs earlier than what they are rated. There are a number of calculators that can help you with this.


Once you know how many lumens you need read search some reviews and see which can put out the lumens you need in one of the PJs best modes. Many manufacturers' often state thier specs in its brightest mode and not in its best calibrated mode. So I wouldn't use most of the manufacturers' specs for their lumens ratings.


Bob
 

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167" wide is a big screen...you'd need a hefty projector to make that work.


As another said, side reflections can become and issue. If you plan to make the edges of the wall by the screen black, (or at least really dark) you would be better than if they were white (or light).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First I want to say thanks so much for the help, I am so new to all this.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BobL /forum/post/16829056


I'm not familiar with those speakers but placement behind the screen is important as well. If they are freestanding speakers you will most likely have to treat the area behind the screen.


180" diag is big and you would need a PJ with a lot of lumens to fill it. I recommend finding what your screen gain would be and find out how many lumens you need to get 20 ft/l at the screen. This will account for bulb aging as they usually lose 50% or more of their brightness in their rated lifespan or plan on replacing the bulbs earlier than what they are rated. There are a number of calculators that can help you with this.


Once you know how many lumens you need read search some reviews and see which can put out the lumens you need in one of the PJs best modes. Many manufacturers' often state thier specs in its brightest mode and not in its best calibrated mode. So I wouldn't use most of the manufacturers' specs for their lumens ratings.


Bob

This is the best info I could find on these speakers.
http://www.techradar.com/reviews/aud...-597060/review


I don't understand what you mean if the speakers are freestanding that I will have to treat the area behind the screen? How should I treat the area? I am deffinately going to put the speakers behind the screen.


Ok, so I had the bulider come in today and it looks like I am not going to be able to fit the screen size I originally wanted. (I have a 20 ft fish tank in the same room that will be partitioned off with an electric retractable wall when I want to watch movies and it would not fit where I originally planned) So the max width I can have is 150" 2.37:1 screen with a 138" width.


As for projectors, I was thinking of getting a JVC DLA-HD350 D-ILA or JVC DLA-HD750 D-ILA projector.
http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/00/01/14/54.PDF

How would this go with a 138" wide screen?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/16829791


167" wide is a big screen...you'd need a hefty projector to make that work.


As another said, side reflections can become and issue. If you plan to make the edges of the wall by the screen black, (or at least really dark) you would be better than if they were white (or light).

Yes I plan to make everything black and the screen will probably be as I stated above at this point in time.
 

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Japan Dave,


As someone who revels in Large Screen applications, I'll say this....,


.....at 150" diagonal with either of the JVCs mentioned, and even if you have a screen that mneasures it's gain out at 1.3, you'll be getting just 12-13 fl to light up a screen, and that sort of screen (Accoustically Transparent) will not work well to utilize the given lumens in any case . And the "Big Picture" isn't something to look forward to if it's "Big & Dim".


If you like JVCs (...as much as I do....) then you'd do best with the RS-10 (1000 lumens). With that PJ you'd up the Foot lamberts to 15-16, dependent upon your Throw distance, which BTW, should be as short as possible to maximize your gain potential, as well as present the shapest image against the AT Screen's weave pattern. Others can advise you as to such positioning better than I, but about the only AT Screen I know of that will provide the Gain you need will come from SMX...and that will be by a "just barely" margin.


Jason mentioned that with aging you'll lose Lumens, and that means dealing with the "Luxury Tax" of replacing the Bulb after approx 1/2 it's projected life span. (...you keep it around though...as a "contengency bulb" should the fresher one go south just before the "Big Game" )


As long as you run the PJ of choice (RS-10?) on Full Lamp Output, and maintain a Light Controlled invironment, you'll be most likely very satisfied with the image. But drop beneath the suggested norms, and that calls off all bets. You do have one advantage though....you have no practical experience by which to compare results against, and in those cases, satisfaction does come a bit easier. Only the determinations and advice given by we who have such experience can make that equation a bit more problematical. Sometimes, a little extra knowledge can make you less apt to be as enthusiastic as blissful ignorance can.



Oh yes...the treatment behind the AT Screen thingee. If you do not have a darkened area behind the Screen, what light that does manage to pass through the Screen's weave can...and most always will illuminate the Speaker behind, and either highlight reflective elements in it's construction (Cabinet Sheen...Decorative Trim) or in the least allow for a vaugue shadow to be seen when the image on the screen is exceedingly bright. Evert AT Screen owners must consider this, and the easiet thing to do is to back the AT Screen with a black, Gossiemer thin Drapery (Flat hued...no sheen) so as to prevent all the light you can from penetrating deep enough to illuminate anything (Wall or Speaker components) that lay behind it.


So there you are. Try shopping around for a brighter PJ, and perhaps you can spend a bit less for a Screen than SMX, but you most likely cannot find a better one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/16833554


Japan Dave,


As someone who revels in Large Screen applications, I'll say this....,


.....at 150" diagonal with either of the JVCs mentioned, and even if you have a screen that mneasures it's gain out at 1.3, you'll be getting just 12-13 fl to light up a screen, and that sort of screen (Accoustically Transparent) will not work well to utilize the given lumens in any case . And the "Big Picture" isn't something to look forward to if it's "Big & Dim".

Well, that is a bummer. Does Accoustically Transparent screen have lower gain?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/16833554


If you like JVCs (...as much as I do....) then you'd do best with the RS-10 (1000 lumens). With that PJ you'd up the Foot lamberts to 15-16, dependent upon your Throw distance, which BTW, should be as short as possible to maximize your gain potential, as well as present the shapest image against the AT Screen's weave pattern. Others can advise you as to such positioning better than I, but about the only AT Screen I know of that will provide the Gain you need will come from SMX...and that will be by a "just barely" margin.

I thought the JVC DLA-HD350 D-ILA had 1000 lumens? I don't mind getting a different PJ , but I did want one that shows blacks very well like the JVC. Any suggestions on a projector or should I post in the projetor thread?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/16833554


Jason mentioned that with aging you'll lose Lumens, and that means dealing with the "Luxury Tax" of replacing the Bulb after approx 1/2 it's projected life span. (...you keep it around though...as a "contengency bulb" should the fresher one go south just before the "Big Game" )

Yes, it would make sense to get a more powerful PJ than having to change bulbs all the time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/16833554


As long as you run the PJ of choice (RS-10?) on Full Lamp Output, and maintain a Light Controlled invironment, you'll be most likely very satisfied with the image. But drop beneath the suggested norms, and that calls off all bets. You do have one advantage though....you have no practical experience by which to compare results against, and in those cases, satisfaction does come a bit easier. Only the determinations and advice given by we who have such experience can make that equation a bit more problematical. Sometimes, a little extra knowledge can make you less apt to be as enthusiastic as blissful ignorance can.

It is in my nature to have the best I can so I will be looking for a different PJ I feel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/16833554


Oh yes...the treatment behind the AT Screen thingee. If you do not have a darkened area behind the Screen, what light that does manage to pass through the Screen's weave can...and most always will illuminate the Speaker behind, and either highlight reflective elements in it's construction (Cabinet Sheen...Decorative Trim) or in the least allow for a vaugue shadow to be seen when the image on the screen is exceedingly bright. Evert AT Screen owners must consider this, and the easiet thing to do is to back the AT Screen with a black, Gossiemer thin Drapery (Flat hued...no sheen) so as to prevent all the light you can from penetrating deep enough to illuminate anything (Wall or Speaker components) that lay behind it.


So there you are. Try shopping around for a brighter PJ, and perhaps you can spend a bit less for a Screen than SMX, but you most likely cannot find a better one.

I am going for a completely black wall behind the screen , so I guess that should take care of that.


Thanks so much for the advise, it is appreciated.
 

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Can the JVC projectors put out a nice picture at a 180"? Just curious. All the JVC projectors I have seen are all a 110-130" screen..


What projector would be recommended for a 180" besides JVC..?


I wish I can get a 180" screen in my room..
That would be great!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisx510 /forum/post/16838854


Can the JVC projectors put out a nice picture at a 180"? Just curious. All the JVC projectors I have seen are all a 110-130" screen..


What projector would be recommended for a 180" besides JVC..?


I wish I can get a 180" screen in my room..
That would be great!

Chris, Do it, yeah it won't look as good as u seen with 110"-130", 180" will still look amazing. Remember u would have to place your PJ back further. I plan on going 16 feet wide soon!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by img eL /forum/post/16839373


Chris, Do it, yeah it won't look as good as u seen with 110"-130", 180" will still look amazing. Remember u would have to place your PJ back further. I plan on going 16 feet wide soon!

What projectors would look great at a 180"?



BTW..Just curious how big do you guys think the screens are at commercial theaters like AMC and Century?
 

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My room isn't big enough to throw a 180" image..but wish I could see what that looks like on my PJ..
 

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Well Guys, these last few entries are a bit OT for the OP's intentions, but there are alternatives around.


I personally have accomplished "making" a 225" diagonal Screen and while using the JVC RS-1 (700 lumens) in a Controlled Lighting situation, but the method I used isn't appropriately discussed on this Forum (Screens) so if you have an interest, PM me and we'll go from there.


OP, the SMX Screen that has the highest Gain might well do your effort (...and the JVC-750) justice. And there are brighter 1080ps available as well. I'm currently in Perth, AU and cannot source all your options, but after the 22nd I'll readily be available to do so.


If I can conjure up a decent suggestion quickly while I'm still Down Under, I'll PM you with the info, and then you can Post up and relate your choice/direction to help other as well.
 

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Dave,


1. With freestanding speakers you will ideally give up some space behind the screen wall so the speakers aren't right against the wall and a few feet from it. You will also have to use some acoustics panels of absorption on the walls behind the screen. If you have to place the speakers closer to the wall more abosrtion would be needed.


2. Most AT screens are a slight negative gain but there are some that do have a slight gain or are neutral.


3. PJs calibrated or in their best picture quality modes put out less lumens then what they rate the PJ. Again don't use manufacturer's specs and also account the bulbs lose 50% or more over the bulb's life. Most reviewers' are taking measurements with new bulbs or not many hours on it.


Some reviews:
http://www.projectorreviews.com/jvc/...erformance.php

http://www.projectorcentral.com/jvc_...s20_review.htm


4. Also brightness and contrast is inversely affected as you change: Bulb's high or low power mode, different zoom ranges, iris position.


Best brightness = High power mode for lamp (also makes PJ louder and bulb doesn't last as long but may still go its rated hours, to many variables), PJ positioned closer to the screen in its zoom range, iris opened to its max open position.


Best contrast = Low power lamp mode (quitest and longest lamp life seting), PJ furthest from the screen in its zoom range, iris closed to its minimum postion.


I wouldn't get too concerned about about this except to help calculate your lumens and the the loudness if your seating is right under the PJ.


5. Dowload a calculator here:
http://carltonbale.com/home-theater/...er-calculator/


6. Shoot for >20 ft/l in a PJs best mode or when calibrated and you'll have a nice, bright, punchy image throughout most of the bulb's life. If it is too bright you can always add a filter to cut it down and remove the filter as the bulb ages. If it is not bright enough you can't add lumens. 12ft/l is the MINIMUM recommended brightness off the screen.


6. If you use a gain screen make sure all your seating is in the viewing cone.


7. Consider 3 chip DLP or brighter PJs. As you go for quality PJs that are bright the budget usually goes up. So if the budget is limited it may be cost beneficial to change bulbs more often.


Hope this helps.


Bob
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisx510 /forum/post/16838854


Can the JVC projectors put out a nice picture at a 180"? Just curious. All the JVC projectors I have seen are all a 110-130" screen..


What projector would be recommended for a 180" besides JVC..?


I wish I can get a 180" screen in my room..
That would be great!

Technically yes, but you probably wouldn't much care for it.


Let's say you have a 180" diag. 16:9 screen (works out to about 88.25"x157" VA). That is 96.22'....big yes.


If you had an RS10 at the absolute best case scenario (shortest throw, high lamp, and you got a relatively good one)...you can figure about 900-1000 lumens (fresh lamp).


On a unity gain screen (1.0) that works out to 10.39 footlamberts (commercial theaters are 12-16 usually). Put that on a 1.3 gain and you are at 13.51).


The problems with this are first off, this is assuming all the above is true which may not be the case (for instance longer throw will drop light output). Moreover, lamps will dim as they get hours on them, so come 300-400 hours, figure you are now well below 10 footlamberts. Last, even at 13.5 or so, that really requires a PITCH BLACK room setup (no light colors, no windows, etc...).


So while from a numbers standpoint it could do it, you'd really have to have the stars align perfectly to happen and even still replace the lamp frequently.


All in all, not recommended.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/16840106


Technically yes, but you probably wouldn't much care for it.


Let's say you have a 180" diag. 16:9 screen (works out to about 88.25"x157" VA). That is 96.22'....big yes.


If you had an RS10 at the absolute best case scenario (shortest throw, high lamp, and you got a relatively good one)...you can figure about 900-1000 lumens (fresh lamp).


On a unity gain screen (1.0) that works out to 10.39 footlamberts (commercial theaters are 12-16 usually). Put that on a 1.3 gain and you are at 13.51).


The problems with this are first off, this is assuming all the above is true which may not be the case (for instance longer throw will drop light output). Moreover, lamps will dim as they get hours on them, so come 300-400 hours, figure you are now well below 10 footlamberts. Last, even at 13.5 or so, that really requires a PITCH BLACK room setup (no light colors, no windows, etc...).


So while from a numbers standpoint it could do it, you'd really have to have the stars align perfectly to happen and even still replace the lamp frequently.


All in all, not recommended.

Great info Jason.. What Pj would be recommended for that size? One of the Sim2?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/16839608


Well Guys, these last few entries are a bit OT for the OP's intentions, but there are alternatives around.


I personally have accomplished "making" a 225" diagonal Screen and while using the JVC RS-1 (700 lumens) in a Controlled Lighting situation, but the method I used isn't appropriately discussed on this Forum (Screens) so if you have an interest, PM me and we'll go from there.


OP, the SMX Screen that has the highest Gain might well do your effort (...and the JVC-750) justice. And there are brighter 1080ps available as well. I'm currently in Perth, AU and cannot source all your options, but after the 22nd I'll readily be available to do so.


If I can conjure up a decent suggestion quickly while I'm still Down Under, I'll PM you with the info, and then you can Post up and relate your choice/direction to help other as well.

Yes! MississippiMan start a new thread on this topic, I'm really interested in your findings!
 
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