[sound dropouts]

ok, so I have my woofers and my mdf and my screws and t nuts. I have screwed them all in, but have not tightened them as completely as they can be. But I am concerned that if I do tighten them more, it could cause problems to the woofer or mdf. Is this a concern, or should I just tighten them as much as possible?

 

[Kanaris]

If you are gong to remove them a few times the mdf will become soft and fall apart, you have to put in some t-nuts.... if you can put them in from the back side in first, then use some 8-32 machine screws.

 

[sound dropouts]

I did use t nuts....but I am still concerned that the soft mdf will be ruined if I screw too tightly

 

[Kanaris]

I read your post too fast and didn't notice the word 't-nut'.


Then you should be okay..you are not screwing into the mdf but into the tnut..so there's nothing to worry about.

 

[JBLsound4645]

Bloody good show mate, now that is what I should have done with the DIY JBL4645 sub enclosure, thou I’ve had the sub unscrewed more times than most of you had hot dinners, and it still screws up tightly, but the (T nuts) is spot on.

Allen key type screws as its faster to unscrew as it is to screw up.

 

[Looneybomber]



Quote:
Originally Posted by JBLsound4645 /forum/post/14218294


Bloody good show mate, now that is what I should have done with the DIY JBL4645 sub enclosure, thou I've had the sub unscrewed more times than most of you had hot dinners, and it still screws up tightly, but the (T nuts) is spot on.

Allen key type screws as its faster to unscrew as it is to screw up.

Allen head (or square head) is the only way to go. Phillips increases the slippage risk too much. A screwdriver to the surround will ruin anyone's day!

 

[sound dropouts]

hmm...after screwing them really tightly, there was one screw on each of my woofers that kept screwing, and the rubber ring around the woofer is looser by them...like I screwed through it or something...has me somewhat concerned...

 

[AlexE]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/14218384


Allen head (or square head) is the only way to go. Phillips increases the slippage risk too much. A screwdriver to the surround will ruin anyone's day!

Agreed, r1 or r2 are my favs (square, diff sizes) for just about everything.

 

[Looneybomber]



Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexE /forum/post/14218422


Agreed, r1 or r2 are my favs (square, diff sizes) for just about everything.

This is a bit off, but you know what bugs me for some dumb reason, Torx. T10, T15 ect... Why can't they use Allen? Oh well.

 

[JamesK8]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris /forum/post/14218164


If you are gong to remove them a few times the mdf will become soft and fall apart, you have to put in some t-nuts.... if you can put them in from the back side in first, then use some 8-32 machine screws.

Thanks so much for posting that photo. I searched for that technique a month ago and found the results but I'm sure this will help anyone who will be doing a driver install.

 

[tundrSQ]



Quote:
Originally Posted by sound dropouts /forum/post/14218396


hmm...after screwing them really tightly, there was one screw on each of my woofers that kept screwing, and the rubber ring around the woofer is looser by them...like I screwed through it or something...has me somewhat concerned...

when using t-nuts i try to leave the back panel off until i am done. Problem might be that you knocked the back of the t-nut off and to be sure i think you must take the driver out and check. But personally I don't like t-nuts with MDF because i can never get a perfect line up and this causes me to have at least one nut not biting into 100% mdf.

 

[JBLsound4645]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/14218384


Allen head (or square head) is the only way to go. Phillips increases the slippage risk too much. A screwdriver to the surround will ruin anyone's day!

Agree (Allen square head) the Allen key fits like snug just like a glove.

 

[Bob7145]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/14218384


Allen head (or square head) is the only way to go. Phillips increases the slippage risk too much. A screwdriver to the surround will ruin anyone's day!

Screwdriver hole will just make it sound like it's powered with a tube amp

.

 

[TheEAR]

I use hurricane nuts,I prefer them to the t-nuts. When installed using a screw type clamp,the fit is perfect each time.


I installed 15 drivers and had ZERO problems with a misaligned nut.

 

[tundrSQ]

Those look awesome...thanks!!!

 

[Kanaris]



Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEAR /forum/post/14219572


I use hurricane nuts,I prefer them to the t-nuts. When installed using a screw type clamp,the fit is perfect each time.


I installed 15 drivers and had ZERO problems with a misaligned nut.

This is a hurricane nut :

This is a t-nut

My question is...Why do you prefer the hurricane nut?

 

[robertcharles]

The hurricane nut bites better and sets itself in the wood as you tighten the screw. The t-nut uses those little prongs, and they tend to bend over and let go when tightened. T nuts were good when the hurricane nut was not available, but they now seem to have been surpassed.


Good luck,


Robert

 

[tundrSQ]

The tines on the t-nut also tend to break chops off the mdf on the outer edge if you don't get it just right. I'm sure most people have great luck with them, but I have struggled, so for me the Hurricane nut seems like it would be much better.

 

[Kanaris]

I drill tiny holes where the tines go... and put a dap of construction adhesive in the main hole before I install them. Never had any issues with them.Although I can see where you guys would prefer the hurricane nut.

 

[TheEAR]

The hurricane nut is a definite upgrade from the t-nut. I had the blades on two t-nuts cut bend ,the bolt's head has to be cut with a Dremel to remove the driver.