AVS Forum banner
  • Our native mobile app has a new name: Fora Communities. Learn more.

Sealed Subwoofer --- fixable?

612 Views 4 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Openupshop
Hello,
I would appreciate any help

My bro gave me a brand new, openbox Subwoofer (Episode Evo12 300) he got as part of an estate sale purchase. Though new, seems it was purchased several years ago from the labels It's a Sealed 12" Sub (powered) & one of those dealers install in houses not typically available for public purchase.

Anyhow, so I connect to my receiver in place of my old sub & got no sound. The lights, the Auto sensing light, all work, but no sound. I unscrewed it from enclosure. All parts of the Sub look pristine & when I gently push down on cone, it moves perfectly, no raspy sound or anything. Then I touched a 9V battery to it's terminals & sure enough the diaphragm moves up, making that little thump sound. I next checked impendance & continuity which both pass. It's listed as 4 ohms & I get 3.9 or 4.0 readings for impedance on multimeter. However, the second I tap on the dust cap or push down on the cone even a tad bit, the multimeter reading goes to all zeroes. Then when move my hand away completely, reading returns to the normal 3.9 or 4.0 ohms reading.
3151002
3151003
o,

So that means there's a short somewhere, correct? Any thoughts on how I can possibly attempt a fix?

The coil, the cone, everything looks pristine. I don't see anymore screws on outside, so not sure how I could reach the coil to check further without damaging something.

I would truly appreciate any help. If need to take a pic from a certain angle, let me know and Ill upload (I'm just pulling at straws in case someone has an idea). Thank you!

Attachments

See less See more
3
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
There's a lot to unpack here . . .

1. Have you tried connecting another driver to the amp and see if it's the amp? If it's the amp, it's probably not worth repairing, just pick up a plate amp off of Parts-Express and replace it.
2. The driver, itself, should work. It should at least move, if you're getting an impedance reading, it sounds like everything is still in tact (the impedance continuity wouldn't work unless it was).

If you like the driver, keep it, build a new box, apply a plate amp, send it.

If you don't like it, sounds like it's no money lost, just donate it or throw it out.
There's a lot to unpack here . . .

1. Have you tried connecting another driver to the amp and see if it's the amp? If it's the amp, it's probably not worth repairing, just pick up a plate amp off of Parts-Express and replace it.
2. The driver, itself, should work. It should at least move, if you're getting an impedance reading, it sounds like everything is still in tact (the impedance continuity wouldn't work unless it was).

If you like the driver, keep it, build a new box, apply a plate amp, send it.

If you don't like it, sounds like it's no money lost, just donate it or throw it out.
Thank you so much for the info. So it's def the amp, Driver seems good.


I'm new to this... So since its a sealed Sub does that matter, can I just buy a plate amp that fits in the back. Also, you mentioned building a box, would it need a new enclosure as well? Also, are there particular specs that have to match when purchasing a plate amp?

Thank you again, truly appreciate the help.
If you're content using the original enclosure that's fine as well. I'm just such a DIY-nerd that I like having something I put together. Tuned to my tastes :p

Take some measurements then check out the Subwoofer Plate Amps section of Parts Express

From there just figure out how much power you want (or can afford) and find a plate amp that looks as if it should fit. You may need to do some cutting but you're looking for a good seal at the back.



EDIT: Just gave the site a glance . . .a lot of the plate amps are sold out or backordered so it may be best to put this project on the back burner unless you plan on switching enclosures.
If you're content using the original enclosure that's fine as well. I'm just such a DIY-nerd that I like having something I put together. Tuned to my tastes :p

Take some measurements then check out the Subwoofer Plate Amps section of Parts Express

From there just figure out how much power you want (or can afford) and find a plate amp that looks as if it should fit. You may need to do some cutting but you're looking for a good seal at the back.



EDIT: Just gave the site a glance . . .a lot of the plate amps are sold out or backordered so it may be best to put this project on the back burner unless you plan on switching enclosures.
Thank you and lol we are brothers in spirit, I am the same kind DIY nerd, nothing like the thrill of building something yourself & if there is a switch involved, nothing like the feeling of turning it on the first time. I'm just somewhat new to the audio arena.

Anyhow, also thank you for the info on the plate amps being backordered/sold out.

I have another sub, it's a Def Tech Powerfield 10" Sub(works perfectly), it's listed as 700 watts (350 RMS) in the back. Could I take the plate amp from it & Replace the nonworking amp on the Sealed Subwoofer we've been talking about?? (The sealed one is listed as 700 watts, 300 watts RSM) Basically, is power and deminsions the only consideration when it comes to plate amps?

Again, thank you so much. Truly appreciate all the help...
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top