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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just received word that my slanted enclosures for my Volt 10 Sealed kits have been shipped. Hope to get started on these this weekend if possible depending on shipping and me making my way to my freight forwarder in Port Huron, MI. I received the Volt 10's a while ago and have the crossovers pretty much done in preparation, so I imagine this should be a quick build (hopefully)
Ordered two pairs of these low profile french cleats to hang them up on my walls:

http://www.parts-express.com/hangman-asm6-2-b-speaker-hanging-kit-2-pcs--182-168


Earlier this year, I sold all of my commercially made speakers and sub (7 Niles PHD42 speakers and 1 SVS PC12-Plus) and have gone full DIY....It's absolutely insane the difference it has made when watching movies, listening to music and playing games so far. So much clearer and you never feel they are straining or struggling ever....or at least as far as I've pushed them. My first foray was an LCR of the Cheap Thrills kit, and then I realized my other speakers had no hope of keeping up (~87db/watt sensitivity vs 97/98db/watt sensitivity). At any rate, I'm really pumped to finally have everything in place. I'll start taking pictures once I have the enclosures in my grubby hands



Many thanks to Erich, Bill, MTG90, TUX and the other designers for making DIYSOUNDGROUP what it is!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·

image.jpg 1384k .jpg file look what arrived....as usual, Erich's packaging is second to none.

image.jpg 1678k .jpg file

image.jpg 1770k .jpg file


I dry fitted one....as expected, like a glove!


Looks like I have a busy weekend ahead of me.....it will definitely be nice to have surround sound again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finally have my hands on these slanted surround flat packs.....they are awesome. Almost thought I wouldn't get to pick them up on time since I was kept late at work yesterday. The new type of mdf Erich is using seems even more rigid and dense than the previous stuff...should make for a very solid enclosure. Hoping to get some dedicated time in this weekend to at least get these assembled, but I have a 5 year old whom gets priority for my attention
We shall see
 

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Erich said the top is 10" and the bottom 6", hopefully joebuddyguy can confirm. I'm interested to see how they turn out, I'm considering building 4 of these too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarki  /t/1523494/sealed-volt-10-coaxial-build-using-erichs-new-slanted-surround-enclosures#post_24516526


Erich said the top is 10" and the bottom 6", hopefully joebuddyguy can confirm. I'm interested to see how they turn out, I'm considering building 4 of these too.

They are 10.25 at the top and 6.25 at the bottom with the baffle on.
 

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Th
Quote:
Originally Posted by joebuddyguy  /t/1523494/sealed-volt-10-coaxial-build-using-erichs-new-slanted-surround-enclosures#post_24517584


They are 10.25 at the top and 6.25 at the bottom with the baffle on.

Thanks
 

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Just wondering if these need polyfil? I know most enclosures benefit from some type of stuffing, just wondering what most people are doing with these?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I plan on using fibreglass insulation.....I'm just wondering if I should be bracing these enclosures? I did find a good way to make use of the original baffles I received with kit that don't fit the slanted enclosures.....I glued them to the back of the new baffles as quasi double baffles so the screws have something to bit into
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Got all the enclosures minus baffles assembled....went pretty quickly and fit together nicely
image.jpg 1566k .jpg file
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Work has stopped my progress this week, but hopefully make headway this weekend. My current issue is getting the slanted baffles to glue up nice and tight as they are difficult to clamp.....any seasoned DIY/carpenters come up with a solution or am I over analyzing the situation? I bought a brad nailer that I figured would be the best way, but wondering if anyone else has any ideas? Do brads work well with MDF? I don't work with MDF much and mechanical fasteners in MDF make me nervous about blowouts and crumbling.....definitely prefer plywood in that regard.
 

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Dry fit the entire thing. Use painter tape if you need to. Drill a few holes where you can put in screws. I'm not a huge fan of putting screws in but they can be buried and filled and hidden. This type of box you'll want to be able to lock it in position so it won't slide while gluing.


It is your call, but if I was building those I would dry fit it with screws and assemble it that way. I have used brad nails in my builds and they held it steady once I had them lined up with clamps. I think in this case, you could go that route and it was suggested in a post above, but the parts could slide and make it difficult, especially with the clock running on the glue. With the screw holes set up and everything lined up you guarantee a good fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks guys, I'll try the brads first and resort to screws if I have issues. Should make some good progress today
 

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You could use very tiny screws and only keep them in to set the glue and then remove them. If you can get it to hold in place long enough to get brads in, I agree that would be my preferred path as well.


Good luck.
 
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