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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone ever had trouble with a sears current tap switch? I installed one in my hushbox to control the fan, and it has failed to start the fan twice in about 70 hours of viewing. This is very bad! My D-ILA overheats after about 45 minutes and shuts down!


When the failures occur, you can still hear the switch relay operating, but there's no power at the accessory outlet.


Anyone else every see this?


Thanks!


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Evan
 

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This is scary. I'm in the process of building my hushbox now, and I am relying on this device. If it works out as planned, I won't be able to tell whether the fan is on or not unless I go upstairs and see whether air is blowing out the outlet vent. Maybe we need an airflow (or fan rotation) sensor and an LED that lights up when the fan is on. Has anyone done this (and know where to get the parts at a reasonable price?)


- Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Chris,


There is a second outlet on the switch. I'm planning to add an indicator light to the hushbox to verify the accessory outlets are on.




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Evan
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Evan:
Chris,


There is a second outlet on the switch. I'm planning to add an indicator light to the hushbox to verify the accessory outlets are on.
Thanks Evan. Right after I made my post I went to the dentist. As I was lying there having my teeth cleaned the same idea came to me. If I could have said "duh" I would have. As long as we trust the fan itself, and that both outlets are always in the same state this will work great. I really don't want anything brighter than a small LED. I assume that a trip to Radio Shack will yield a good solution. What exactly were you going to use? Maybe just one of those outlet testers would work.


- Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Chris, I'm thinking the same thing, either a small LED or a neon bulb ala circuit tester. I'm also thinking about buying a new switch. Maybe I got a bad one.....




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Evan
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Evan:
Chris, I'm thinking the same thing, either a small LED or a neon bulb ala circuit tester. I'm also thinking about buying a new switch. Maybe I got a bad one.....
Good idea - you shouldn't have to buy it though - Sears should replace it for you. It will be interesting to see if mine ever fails. So far I've bench tested it once with my G11 and it worked great. Maybe I'll try a test of 100 cycles or so with an electric drill in place of the projector. This won't be conclusive proof of anything since the problem may have to do with the current draw of the DILA, but maybe you could run a similar test with your possibly defective unit. If you get failures and I don't, then we'd have some evidence that you've got a bad one. If anyone else wants to get in on this experiment, we'd have more data to go on. Even with the indicator light, it would be nice to know whether these devices are generally reliable or not.


- Chris


[This message has been edited by Chris Satterlee (edited 08-28-2001).]
 

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This news is indeed disconcerting. I think, however, it's that particular relay and it should be replaced.


I installed mine in my hushbox in July 2000. It's now 13 months old and it's never missed a hitch. 600 bulb-hours later on my G11, and it still works well.


The LED on the extra outlet sounds like a good idea; I may use that for peace of mind. I think, however, that the switch is reliable, at least the one I got (FWIW).




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Perry
www.woodht.homestead.com
 

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I use this switch (thanks AVS forum!) and haven't had any problems (KOW!). Of course my setup is not silent due to the rather loud duct fan I have it hooked through even though the fan is in the next room. Thus I could hear if it failed. I've been using it for probably 90 days now, FWIW.




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Lex MC1/Sunfire CG/Hales Rev3's x3/M&K SS150 tripoles/Quadscan/Plus UP1100/Homemade screen
 

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Hi guys,


Anyone have a part number or a link to this switch?


Sounds like the perfect thing for my upcoming garage hush/temp box project. Thanks.


Chris
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by CCLAY:
Hi guys,


Anyone have a part number or a link to this switch?


Sounds like the perfect thing for my upcoming garage hush/temp box project. Thanks.


Chris
Go to www.sears.com and search for 00924031 (which is the part number). Print out the picture and take it into Sears, and they will find it for you (the part number should be enough, but the picture will speed things up even more). It will be in the power tools area.


- Chris



[This message has been edited by Chris Satterlee (edited 08-28-2001).]
 

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Chris S.,


Thank you very much.


So I assume by the description that this device turns on an auxiliary outlet, such as the hushbox fan, when the main power, the DILA, is turned on?


Chris
 

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I don't use this switch. I have to remember to turn on my fans. But I do have a backup plan for anybody with a hushbox.


Since a hushbox is typically behind the viewing area with a D-ILA, an LED or other visual cue may not be as good as an audible one on failure.


I have a little digital temperature gauge with remote probe. It attaches to the outside of the hushbox with probe snaked inside. If the temp inside the hushbox goes above 82F for any reason I get an annoying beep-beep-beep that doesn't stop until I reset it or the temp goes down below the alarm limit. Mine is called a Springfield Weather Center.


My only concern with it is that it is battery powered and I worry about batteries dying. Although realisitcally, these two AAA batteries will probably run this for years.


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Kirk Ellis

G1000 D-ILA, HTPC, Panamorph (soon I hope),

Dish 6000 (HBOHD,SHOHD,CBS,NBC,ABC,WB,FOX,UPN, KCET -- does it get any better ?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Chris S.,


I tried the drill test with interesting results! The switch works 100% of the time if I squeeze the trigger enough to fully spin the motor. However, if I slowly squeeze the trigger and make the motor turn slowly,(Variable speed drill) the switch doesn't close.


I don't think my switch is bad, I think it's trigger sensitivity is close to the D-ILA's current draw!


I would be interested in how sensitive your switch is. Can you try the drill test again? Anyone know what the trigger current show be?


Thanks!



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Evan
 

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Don't know if this helps or not, but I just had some experience with this switch, to see if I could use it to lower my Stewart Electrimask screen, when the projector (G20 D-ILA) is turned on.


What I found is that when you turn on the projector, the switch fires for a moment while the bulb is being lit, then turns off for a moment, and then comes back on when the projector comes on. When you turn the projector off, the switch stays on until the projector's cool-down cycle ends, and the fan turns off. No good for me - I want the screen to come up as soon as the projector turns off, not after the cool-down cycle.


So, in my case, the switch is too sensitive - it stays on even when the only draw in the projector is to run the fans in the cool-down cycle.


- Dave
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by dreamer:
I have a little digital temperature gauge with remote probe. It attaches to the outside of the hushbox with probe snaked inside. If the temp inside the hushbox goes above 82F for any reason I get an annoying beep-beep-beep that doesn't stop until I reset it or the temp goes down below the alarm limit. Mine is called a Springfield Weather Center.
I searched for this on the web and couldn't find it. Ended up ordering one of these. $19 (I got through the whole order process and it never did tell how much shipping would be.)


[Edit: shipping turned out to be $5 (UPS ground, Florida -> California)]


This should add more peace of mind. Great suggestion - thanks Kirk!


- Chris


[This message has been edited by Chris Satterlee (edited 09-04-2001).]
 

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That's about the same thing and less than I paid for the one I'm using. I picked up mine at Target (like Wal-Mart if Target isn't in your area.)


Glad I could contribute to your peace of mind. A couple of scares when my D-ILA shut down in the middle of a movie because I forgot to turn on the fans was what prompted mine.


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Kirk Ellis

G1000 D-ILA, HTPC, Panamorph (soon I hope),

Dish 6000 (HBOHD,SHOHD,CBS,NBC,ABC,WB,FOX,UPN, KCET -- does it get any better ?)
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by CCLAY:
Chris S.,


Thank you very much.


So I assume by the description that this device turns on an auxiliary outlet, such as the hushbox fan, when the main power, the DILA, is turned on?


Chris
Exactly. You plug the projector into the outlet labeled "Power Tool", and you plug the fan into one of the two outlets labeled "Accessory".


I also had a 100/100 success rate with the drill test, but I didn't think of trying it at slow speed.


I stopped by Radio Shack last night and picked up green neon 120VAC bulb. They come two to a pack for $2.69. This will work perfectly. The bulb has two 3" leads, so I'll be able to just connect it to a normal lamp cord with wire nuts and plug it in to the second accessory outlet.


The one time I have tried the switch with my projector so far, the fan switched on as soon as I powered on the projector, and didn't switch off until the cool down was complete. This is perfect. Sorry about your screen Dave, but if it worked the way you want it to it would be no good for the rest of us!


I suspect that the trigger current does vary from unit to unit. What doesn't make sense is that it wouldn't trigger even when the projector is fully on. If 5 amps isn't enough to trigger it, then something is definitely wrong. Your first post (Evan) said that when the failures occurred, you still heard the relay. I wonder if the relay click still happens even when the "Mode" switch is turned off. I'm wondering if a faulty mode switch could cause the failure.


Thanks for the temperature probe tip Kirk. The advantage of the indicator light is that you know immediately when you turn on the projector if the fan has turned on. The combo of the two is probably the ideal solution since, as you point out, the temp probe will tell you if you have a failure after it's been running.


- Chris




[This message has been edited by Chris Satterlee (edited 08-29-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Chris S,


I picked up the same green lamp at Rad Shack too. Works great.


I think I might have found the problem. I've got a small single outlet surge suppressor plugged into the power tool outlet. It touches the mode switch.

When I put it all back in the hushbox last night, my new green light told me the fan wasn't running! I pulled the surge suppressor away from the switch, and it worked fine.


I'll keep an eye on it!


BTW, the green neon lamp looks good. It's not too bright, and when mounted near the projectors lens, isn't noticeable compared too the light from the projector.




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Evan
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, The switch finally bit the dust. The relay still "clicks," but there's no power on the accessory outlet.


The local Sear's hardware was kind enough to replace it, even though it's not officially a replaceable part.


Way to go Sear's!


I would strongly recommend the green neon pilot light if you are using this setup.




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Evan
 
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